Bob Loblaw wrote:

How not to sell an orphaned suit jacket:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/35-x-30-41R-Bro … 029wt_1398

edit: i think it is actually a suit now

That's actually a well cut collar. You don't see that much; many top bespokes and highend rtw such as Oxxford and Kiton can't do that because they are old school cutters that learnt off old school tailors [via the `block method' taught in text books]. lt just shows that some of the cheap suit lines DO have some really great cutters.

Sammy Ambrose wrote:

The_Shooman wrote:

... some of the cheap suit lines DO have some really great cutters.

Lots of truth in this.

Don't go telling people on the forums this, they will go ape-shit mate! l tried telling people here once and people didn't like it at all.

More sad unconscious revelations from the same thread.

Another reason why I needed to get up earlier.  Boss' boss is sending e-mails at 6:40 am from his desk.
I do 5-6 hours every weeknight.  Then I cheat on the weekend and take a long nap.

It now becomes clearer to me why the USA economy is up shit creek.

It also seems clear why there is so much macho posturing online. And I'm guessing at home. When your working life is a form of indentured servitude enhanced by daily ritual humiliation and negation of your humanity it's no wonder other outlets become important.

I got cornered at a bar once by some clown of a lawyer who told me that he loved working into the small hours because then it was "just me and the deal, mano a mano". 

I think I coughed out some beer when I heard that.

Sammy Ambrose wrote:

The_Shooman wrote:

... some of the cheap suit lines DO have some really great cutters.

Lots of truth in this.

There's an old thread floating around here somewhere by a tailor from Denver who did some work commercially and I think he said the highest skilled tailors usually work for the big names creating patterns, since at that level of industrial output patterns have be the best. Maybe someone can find the thread.

formby wrote:

Big Tony wrote:

Sammy Ambrose wrote:

Lots of truth in this.

There's an old thread floating around here somewhere by a tailor from Denver who did some work commercially and I think he said the highest skilled tailors usually work for the big names creating patterns, since at that level of industrial output patterns have be the best. Maybe someone can find the thread.

Jsprowls.

There is much more pressure and need to improve in a mass production environment as margins are always being squeezed. For me, its self-evident.

I think his point was not about the $$ but rather that most tailors simply don't have the ability to design suits that can be replicated but still look good and fit as many different body shapes as possible as well as possible. I know custom tailoring is considered the final word on everything, so it's probably not worth discussing.

Last edited by Big Tony (2012-01-27 16:02:12)

Bloggers have a well-deserved reputation for loving free shit, and doing all they can to obtain it.  Take our friend Giacomo over at "An Affordable Wardrobe".  Giacomo's gag is to overdress in all the cheap stuff he finds at thrift shops, showing how the discarded clothes of our betters can make us look more presentable. 

And he doesn't do badly.  For the most part, he turns out to look ok with his finds.  And he sells the excess (as in volume) in his Blog store, as do most bloggers, since this is America and you'd better be selling something, especially if you're taking up valuable internet space.  And like all bloggers Giacomo loves the freebie. Loves and craves anything free. Rusted abandoned bike--is it free? He'll take it. A new line of cricket caps.  Free? Thanks, I'll be sure to plug er, mention them. Cedar shoe trees, shitty sweaters and shirts from major retailers--if you're a marketer looking for some internet publicity for the price of a returned pair of shoe trees, Giacomo's your man. 

Here's his latest foray into freebiedom--ye olde bespoken suit:

http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.co … blitz.html



(Hmmm...maybe that recycled sack suit isn't a bad idea after all)


Andyvians discuss the proper number of holes in the cuffs of French-cuffed shirts; some say 4, some say 3. (Included is the obligatory Meyer Wolfsheim reference.) 3 holes...and some of these guys have jobs. You decide:
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/foru … stions....

Then they discuss the hated BB non-iron shirt, and whether it is a good thing, especially at reduced prices on sale with a coupon and a gift certificate from your crippled aunt. Eagle writes how his hands, horribly covered with ancient Hoosier epidermis, destroy his non-iron shirts when he touches them, at least in the winter, and maybe after he's been hunting,..it's really hard to figure out what he's talking about:
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/foru … ally/page2

Last edited by Popeye Doyle (2012-01-27 18:43:43)

sf bigtimer1 wrote:

I once hired a guy who had studied jazz music, and been a pro musician for a few years, before getting into sales. the position was sales manager for western europe.


anyway, we are on a trip in london, we get to heathrow to fly out, and while we are waiting for the flight, he opens his case and takes out a trumpet, leaves the case open and starts to play. I ask him what he is doing, and he says "I need to practise every day to keep up my skills". so I ask "and why did you leave your case open like that?" - he says "well, if people like my playing they can give me a tip"

so I say to him - ok, we are on a business trip, and we just left a sales meeting, do you not think that it is possible that one day you are going to run into somebody you know while you are busking at the airport? also, what have you been doing for practice all week? so it turns out he has been going out front of our hotels every night to practice, with a hat for tips.

anyway, I fired him. mostly because he just didn't understand what was wrong with that.

The above is from a thread http://www.styleforum.net/t/25874/what- … ing/150_30
that should be read on tandem with the "What time do you get up/ go to sleep" thread

Basically, reading between the lines of puffed up titles etc - most of them are living on the parents money.

There are a significant number of deliciously arrogant/ naive posts saying how they are aiming to work for Lehmans etc - without any hint of irony - or what I could at least respect - knowing amorality.

Last edited by fxh (2012-01-28 02:07:31)

fxh wrote:

There are a significant number of deliciously arrogant/ naive posts saying how they are aiming to work for Lehmans etc - without any hint of irony - or what I could at least respect - knowing amorality.

I'm possibly being a tad unfair here.

After all I think the posts were in 2008 when it was possible that a not very bright person might have thought working for Lehmans was something to aspire to and acceptable to mention, albiet anonomously, on a public forum.

I blame Gilgamesh for leading me into this undignified snarking at people I do not know.

fxh wrote:

I blame Gilgamesh for leading me into this undignified snarking at people I do not know.

Gilgamesh should offer distance courses on how to do it properly. He's the master of snark, followed by Popeye and Max. Speaking of which, whatever happened to the scourge of the aristocrats?

Sammy Ambrose wrote:

Big Tony wrote:

I think his point was not about the $$ but rather that most tailors simply don't have the ability to design suits that can be replicated but still look good and fit as many different body shapes as possible as well as possible. I know custom tailoring is considered the final word on everything, so it's probably not worth discussing.

Some tailors are only a step up from home dress makers. From my own experience,  there  are some truly dreadful  tailors in the middle and far east. I have on occasion had suits and shirts so dreadfully made, despite several fittings, that I have immediately donated them to worthy causes.

Their are truly dreadful tailors everywhere.

Once you get to know how much work goes into making a bespoke suit, price is a reasonable indicator. Obviously, not infallible though, as we've recently seen from one of the Rows most expensive.

If a tailor says he can make you a bespoke suit to Savile Row standards of construction and materials. for £450. You're likely being bullshitted.

Popeye Doyle wrote:

Bloggers have a well-deserved reputation for loving free shit, and doing all they can to obtain it.  Take our friend Giacomo over at "An Affordable Wardrobe".  Giacomo's gag is to overdress in all the cheap stuff he finds at thrift shops, showing how the discarded clothes of our betters can make us look more presentable. 

And he doesn't do badly.  For the most part, he turns out to look ok with his finds.  And he sells the excess (as in volume) in his Blog store, as do most bloggers, since this is America and you'd better be selling something, especially if you're taking up valuable internet space.  And like all bloggers Giacomo loves the freebie. Loves and craves anything free. Rusted abandoned bike--is it free? He'll take it. A new line of cricket caps.  Free? Thanks, I'll be sure to plug er, mention them. Cedar shoe trees, shitty sweaters and shirts from major retailers--if you're a marketer looking for some internet publicity for the price of a returned pair of shoe trees, Giacomo's your man. 

Here's his latest foray into freebiedom--ye olde bespoken suit:

http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.co … blitz.html



(Hmmm...maybe that recycled sack suit isn't a bad idea after all)
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Alw5QJVO-W8/T … G_8659.JPG

Andyvians discuss the proper number of holes in the cuffs of French-cuffed shirts; some say 4, some say 3. (Included is the obligatory Meyer Wolfsheim reference.) 3 holes...and some of these guys have jobs. You decide:
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/foru … stions....

Then they discuss the hated BB non-iron shirt, and whether it is a good thing, especially at reduced prices on sale with a coupon and a gift certificate from your crippled aunt. Eagle writes how his hands, horribly covered with ancient Hoosier epidermis, destroy his non-iron shirts when he touches them, at least in the winter, and maybe after he's been hunting,..it's really hard to figure out what he's talking about:
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/foru … ally/page2

A great post. You deserve a prize for this.

Perhaps if I write to Giacomo, mentioning all the free publicity you've given him here, he'll rummage around in his stock and find you something not particularly greasy that he can shove into one of his used sandwich bags to post to you as a reward.