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#1 2012-01-24 12:59:57

carpu65
Member
Posts: 1214

Brooks Brothers double breasted.

Here some Brooks Brothers double breasted coats from 30s and 40s:

30s:
I don't know if the coats are darted.
Lapels cut seems a bit strange; not a great shape.

http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/7889/brooks3n.jpg

40s:

1940 coats.
Note the lapels; My conjecture is that this shape lapels is the same that in 1890s double breasted sack coats, another evidence of the extreme conservatorism of Brook Brothers.
Sincerly these old style lapels seems ugly and clumsy.

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/8602/c14t.jpg

40s: Lapels are cut horizontally; seems the distinctive feature of Brooks Brothers for double breasted.
I not see if are darted or not,but seems a bit boxy.

http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/8182/brdb1.jpg

http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/45/brdb2.jpg

http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/995/bro2r.jpg

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/2992/a0050988ygg.png

http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/2621/brooksbrothers1940.jpg

1944, this is Wintrop Holly Brooks,The last member of the Brooks family to head the company.
Note the lapels.
Suit seems darted only to hips,but shoulders are padded.
Not a great suit in my opinion.

http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/866/wintrophollybrooks3.jpg

1969, Brooks Brothers double breasted is back; note the horizontal lapels; seems very similar to 40s double breasted coats.
the Buttons number and position remembers the  Wintrop Holly Brooks coat.
Is possible that this model is resumed by an old pattern when wide lapels and 30s style back in fashion in 1969-70?

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/1817/brooksbro.jpg

Last edited by carpu65 (2012-01-24 13:00:25)

 

#2 2012-01-24 13:15:41

Blucher
Knows His Ivy Onions
Posts: 976

Re: Brooks Brothers double breasted.

I read somewhere that suit jackets were often as heavy as modern overcoats during the 1930s and 40s.  Presumably they were one hundred per cent wool.  Lighter clothing seemed to suit the post-Korean War mood.

 

#3 2012-01-24 13:34:31

carpu65
Member
Posts: 1214

Re: Brooks Brothers double breasted.

The problem with Brooks Brothers today is the absolute lack of tradition and sense of history.
This is a ourday Brooks Brothers double breasted (collection Milano):

http://img805.imageshack.us/img805/9576/brooksbrodot.png

Is ugly and anonymous; Ralph Lauren polo double breasted have a recognizable style,Brooks Brothers not!

A BB double breasted should be so (left) :

http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/7746/brooksbrodo3.png

Horizontal lapels,high stance buttons..in 1969 Brooks Brothers was right to follow tradition and house style..

 

#4 2012-02-01 19:47:18

carpu65
Member
Posts: 1214

Re: Brooks Brothers double breasted.

1906,the birth of modern double breasted.
Look at the lapels of this archaic model:

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/8976/ministersgazette1906.png

Now look at the lapels of this 1940 Brooks Brothers double breasted:

http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/8602/c14t.jpg

The cut is similar!

 

#5 2012-02-01 19:52:24

carpu65
Member
Posts: 1214

Re: Brooks Brothers double breasted.

http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/8571/c14tl.png

 

#6 2012-02-02 14:58:36

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: Staines-upon-Thames, Middlesex
Posts: 3084

Re: Brooks Brothers double breasted.

Double breasted suits are one of those things I always like when I see them on someone else, but never wear myself.

I know there were plenty of DB suits around during the boom years, Zach has had a couple of beauties in his shop like this one:

http://www.etsy.com/listing/85396745/sa … asted-blue

When you see a guy in a double breasted suit they always look as though they've gone the extra mile to look really smart. But somehow they never look relaxed, it's seems quite a stiff formal look to my eye, and there lies the rub for me.

The DB suit or jacket flies in the face of the 'under the radar' low key look and I guess that's why none have found their way into my wardrobe.

More Trad than Ivy ?


'Sooner or later you all have to confront Marketing and the reality of the world just beyond the computer screen'

 

#7 2012-02-02 15:17:11

The Thin Repp
Ivy Evangelist
Posts: 1143

Re: Brooks Brothers double breasted.

The Ivy sack double breasted suit is a thing.  As is the blazer. 
http://www.etsy.com/transaction/57700589
http://www.etsy.com/transaction/54643941

Usually it has a 4x2 configuration.


http://www.etsy.com/shop/NewtonStreetVintage  Classic Vintage Ivy League Clothing on Etsy.

 

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