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#101 2016-02-05 08:45:54

Acton_Baby
Member
From: West London
Posts: 3848

Re: The jeans question ...

^ if you want shrink-to-fit Levi's with decent quality selvedge denim (Cone Mills) but don't mind an iffy patch on the waistband (easily removed) these are good value....

http://www.levi.com/US/en_US/mens-jeans/p/005011995


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#102 2016-02-05 08:52:50

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: The Lost County of Middlesex
Posts: 7959

Re: The jeans question ...


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

Achievements: banned from the Ivy Style FB Group

 

#103 2016-02-05 09:19:43

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 3450

Re: The jeans question ...

 

#104 2016-02-05 10:21:04

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: The jeans question ...

Oliver, that's unfortunate about the Red Clouds.  Looking at the pictures on those two sites, they look like completely different fits.  The one looks like it has a decent rise, the others look like crap.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#105 2016-02-05 11:05:24

Acton_Baby
Member
From: West London
Posts: 3848

Re: The jeans question ...

Been asking my denim guru about the Red Cloud and their fits,
they used to trade as Red Banner - an early entrant in the repro denim market but developed a less than great reputation due to poor quality hardware and average quality denim , they re-launched with a new name and upped their game with the finish of the garments.

Here's his some info on the fits ( he say's TUCKSHOP measurements are actually pretty accurate)....

400 - late 40s pre ww2 style ( 1944 LVC 501 best comparison) lowish front rise but comparatively high back rise so sit high into your waist.
423/424 - 50's style ( 1954 LVC 501 for hearest comparison) decent front rise but square top block meaning a mid-rise 'anti ' fit, different style numbers are slightly different leg shape/hem width.
425 - 50's style ( 1955 LVC 501 for nearest comparison) higher front and back rise than 424 but a square top block again so has that hanging off your waist 'anti' fit.
436 - late 40s post ww2 style ( 1947 LVC 501 best comparison) lower front rise but comparatively high back rise so sit high into your waist.


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#106 2016-02-05 11:13:00

Sid Ford
Member
Posts: 636

Re: The jeans question ...

 

#107 2016-02-06 06:40:54

Acton_Baby
Member
From: West London
Posts: 3848

Re: The jeans question ...

Just to chip in another option and they are made local to you Oli,
Tellason are doing the Ankara fit again, a wee bit pricey ($200ish) but 15oz sanforized (so little, approx -2%, shinkage)Cone Mills denim and measurements...

34W
Front Rise 13.75"
Back Rise 18.25"
Thigh 26"
Hem    18"

These sold out almost instantly last time he did a batch
and Unionmade may be the only place left stateside with stock of the latest edition.


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#108 2016-02-06 07:21:41

Oliver
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 6321

Re: The jeans question ...

^ calling Unionmade this morning! Thanks bud!!

 

#109 2016-02-06 12:42:50

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 3450

Re: The jeans question ...

Those look good, too. But all of the posted jeans have one 'best' IMO - those 'R400'. Cool stuff!

And the Levi's as no nonsense jeans... Those Tellason would be too high for me. But great for Oli and... WM wink

 

#110 2016-02-07 03:19:59

chuck power
Member
From: Looking for Lewis and Clark
Posts: 805

Re: The jeans question ...


Who do you see? Who do you watch? Whose your leader? Which is your flock?

 

#111 2016-02-07 03:38:41

Acton_Baby
Member
From: West London
Posts: 3848

Re: The jeans question ...

^ chuck the pre-shrink sizes are...
the 30w have a 8" hem and the 34W have 9" hem.
There's a  1/4" to 1/2" shrinkage post 1st soak/wash.

As an extra note the 551z are now £107 on levis euro website, limited sizes.


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#112 2016-02-07 05:56:06

chuck power
Member
From: Looking for Lewis and Clark
Posts: 805

Re: The jeans question ...

Thanks AC - went two order to pairs as you got a 50% discount if you spent over $250 .... alas they don't ship internationally . sad

Last edited by chuck power (2016-02-07 09:41:05)


Who do you see? Who do you watch? Whose your leader? Which is your flock?

 

#113 2016-02-07 07:55:01

Acton_Baby
Member
From: West London
Posts: 3848

Re: The jeans question ...

^ chuck it's worth checking Levi's 'brick and mortar' stores for stock ( Westfield in Shep. Bush and Regent Street in London had some ).

They are online in the euro Levi's store and at Stuarts but limited sizes .

https://www.stuartslondon.com/denim-jeans-c15/straight-regular-fit-denim-c16/levis-premium-goods-501-shrink-to-fit-denim-jeans-p17110


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#114 2016-02-07 09:19:09

Oliver
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 6321

Re: The jeans question ...

I just ordered the last size 33 Ankara fit from Unionmade (free shipping made it easier than running over in person) but why am I seeing these listed as mid-rise elsewhere with an ~ 11" front? Do they change specs on the model with each run? I wonder if I could bring these back to Tellason and request a .25" taper from the thigh down the hem? Any idea what the feasibility of that would be? (I really don't know anything about denim)

I hope the dark rinse fades to a lighter blue with some wear and wash; the dye seems really dark in photos.

 

#115 2016-02-07 09:29:24

Acton_Baby
Member
From: West London
Posts: 3848

Re: The jeans question ...

^I think it's more down to bad measuring than anything else.
They have the highest rise of all the Tellason jeans.

They do fade nicely.


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#116 2016-02-07 10:21:18

Acton_Baby
Member
From: West London
Posts: 3848

Re: The jeans question ...

An idea of how they fade

http://www.heddels.com/2014/08/tellason-sheffield-16-5-oz-10-months-about-4-washes-fade-friday/


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#117 2016-02-07 10:40:45

Oliver
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 6321

Re: The jeans question ...

Looks great all around! I think you may have finally solved the nearly decade-old plight of my jeans - thanks again, bud!

 

#118 2016-02-07 10:57:01

Acton_Baby
Member
From: West London
Posts: 3848

Re: The jeans question ...

No worries Oli,
I hope they work out for you.


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#119 2016-02-07 13:24:44

Oliver
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 6321

Re: The jeans question ...

Do you know if there's any difference in the fit with the 16.5oz version? Presumably this was from a different production run; I don't care too much about the weight of the denim but do you know anything about the quality and aesthetic of the denim compared to the 14.5oz model that I just bought?

http://www.sivletto.com/en/artiklar/tellason-ankara-166oz.html

 

#120 2016-02-07 13:41:00

Acton_Baby
Member
From: West London
Posts: 3848

Re: The jeans question ...

^ the 14.5oz is the closest to the classic Cone Mills denim of the post WW2 Levi's 501.
IMHO the heavier 16.5oz denim is aimed more at the denim-head ,
the extra fabric weight/density contributes to harsher fade contrast on the whiskers ( the fade lines on the thighs) and honeycombs ( the fade pattern behind the knees),
the fabric also has a higher starch content so tends to hold their raw-stiffness and  the indigo colour for a few more washes than the lighter denim.


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#121 2016-02-07 13:46:03

Oliver
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 6321

Re: The jeans question ...

Thanks for the deets, sounds like I made the right choice! 👍🏻

 

#122 2016-02-08 15:16:36

scarecrow
Member
Posts: 51

Re: The jeans question ...

http://www.scruggsfarm.com/key-industries-indigo-denim-5-pocket-jeans-traditional-fit-487443.html

 

#123 2016-02-08 15:30:26

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: The jeans question ...

^
Now THAT looks like my kind of jeans!  Visit the Key website here:
https://www.keyapparel.com/men/162-heavyweight-denim-5-pocket-jean-traditional-fit.html

Wouldn't even mind some of the hickory stripe overalls for when I want to get really legit.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#124 2016-02-08 16:20:34

Oliver
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 6321

Re: The jeans question ...

 

#125 2016-02-08 18:33:44

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: The jeans question ...

Last edited by stanshall (2016-02-08 21:48:05)


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

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