Vox's suit turned out very well.

I don't like the turn-ups though and whilst not the topic of discussion he needs a tie/shirt with a bit more oomph.....like a Duchamp floral for example

Oh and he needs to lose the bluchers too.

IIRC the cloth is a brown Minnis chaklstripe flannel, which is a beautiful, rich cloth and probably the best brown chalkstripe cloth I've seen. Highly recommended.

Charlie-boys A&S suit is meh...I've seen him in better.

The tie is out of proportion to those lapels, and the pattern is not bold enough for those stripes, whilst the colour of the tie does not compliment that shirt. As for the brown abortion of a hankie...........!
Charlie just looks scruffy- I always thought the one married top the nazi princess was a much better dresser.

formby wrote:

Vox's suit turned out very well.

I don't like the turn-ups though and whilst not the topic of discussion he needs a tie/shirt with a bit more oomph.....like a Duchamp floral for example

Oh and he needs to lose the bluchers too.

IIRC the cloth is a brown Minnis chaklstripe flannel, which is a beautiful, rich cloth and probably the best brown chalkstripe cloth I've seen. Highly recommended.

Charlie-boys A&S suit is meh...I've seen him in better.

First thanks for the comments on the cloth.  I appreciate your commentary.  I like Vox's suit as well. I agree with you about the size of the turn-ups --but you probably would prefer the suit to have none.  Also have to say I agree the tie and square aren't pefect either.  All said, great suit.

Ali Kebab wrote:

I like this one by David Reeves.

http://newyork.timeout.com/sites/timeou … es.jr1.jpg

Looks like silk. I have a slubless silk faille, navy DB suit which I love. It doesnt even look like silk unless the light catches it just so. I should've bought enough for another suit.

formby wrote:

g- wrote:

formby wrote:

Vox's suit turned out very well.

I don't like the turn-ups though and whilst not the topic of discussion he needs a tie/shirt with a bit more oomph.....like a Duchamp floral for example

Oh and he needs to lose the bluchers too.

IIRC the cloth is a brown Minnis chaklstripe flannel, which is a beautiful, rich cloth and probably the best brown chalkstripe cloth I've seen. Highly recommended.

Charlie-boys A&S suit is meh...I've seen him in better.

First thanks for the comments on the cloth.  I appreciate your commentary.  I like Vox's suit as well. I agree with you about the size of the turn-ups --but you probably would prefer the suit to have none.  Also have to say I agree the tie and square aren't pefect either.  All said, great suit.

Minnis do fabulous chalkstripe flannels, they get the look just right. There's a blue chalkstripe, a sister cloth to the brown one above that just reeks of that old money look. I've been meaning to do it in a SBPL for bloody years.

My tailor has recently made up the black chalkstripe, another sister cloth of the one discussed above for a barrister, a real Rumpole of the Bailey type. It suited him perfectly (pun intended)

Its phenomenal stuff.

Flannels are tough here in the NYC area. It does get cold but the offices, trains etc.. are all 100 degrees. Many men in the tri-state area wear lighter weight suits in the winter than the English will wear in the summer. I wore a Harrisons Havana 7/8 oz suit yesterday and it was just under 80 degrees and humid.

formby wrote:

Film Noir Buff wrote:

formby wrote:

Minnis do fabulous chalkstripe flannels, they get the look just right. There's a blue chalkstripe, a sister cloth to the brown one above that just reeks of that old money look. I've been meaning to do it in a SBPL for bloody years.

My tailor has recently made up the black chalkstripe, another sister cloth of the one discussed above for a barrister, a real Rumpole of the Bailey type. It suited him perfectly (pun intended)

Its phenomenal stuff.

Flannels are tough here in the NYC area. It does get cold but the offices, trains etc.. are all 100 degrees. Many men in the tri-state area wear lighter weight suits in the winter than the English will wear in the summer. I wore a Harrisons Havana 7/8 oz suit yesterday and it was just under 80 degrees and humid.

Oh I understand. Flannels may be beautiful but if wearing them makes you uncomfortable (too hot) they are of no use. You must be comfortable.

How does that Havana make up? It looks a bit light to me, Mystique looks a better bet for my needs. Frontier, which I have is great.

I like both and I add the H. Lesser LGB Tropical and the regular tropical to the rotation.

Mystique is cool and has better form retention. Takes a beating. I am not a fan of the patterns available except for a few. But it is hard to make stripes on a light weight panama weave. I basically get several of the exact same number anyway.

Havana is louche. Because it's soft, I really dont feel like I have a jacket on and I crumple into my chair.  Haven't had any negative issues with it.

g- wrote:

formby wrote:

g- wrote:

First thanks for the comments on the cloth.  I appreciate your commentary.  I like Vox's suit as well. I agree with you about the size of the turn-ups --but you probably would prefer the suit to have none.  Also have to say I agree the tie and square aren't pefect either.  All said, great suit.

Minnis do fabulous chalkstripe flannels, they get the look just right. There's a blue chalkstripe, a sister cloth to the brown one above that just reeks of that old money look. I've been meaning to do it in a SBPL for bloody years.

My tailor has recently made up the black chalkstripe, another sister cloth of the one discussed above for a barrister, a real Rumpole of the Bailey type. It suited him perfectly (pun intended)

Its phenomenal stuff.

Formby thanks for this.  I have a navy chalk but love the idea of getting the brown.  So there are "upsides" as well as "downsides" to living in the midwest--no one here knows the rule of no brown in town.  Never heard it.  I could wear that brown chalk and people would think it cool--might relate it to something mobsterish.  (Seriously - many a dolt here- Boccherini is certainly a deli somewhere.)  Downside of course is that there are limited places where it is really appropriate - so I will have to push the edge of the envelope. Crazy me.

Listen, I walk around in the fashion capital of the world amongst people who wear the most bizarre things imaginable and they trip over themselves when I do something interesting. You haven't lived until you make a  guy with a short dreads fauxhawk in a pink short sleeved shirt and bright red bow tie trip over himself to see your shirt and tie combination. Sometimes looking nice causes more consternation than dressing like you're from the fuuutuuure.


Make sure you put a mad lining in the jacket and wear it with a checked shirt from Harvie and Hudson.

Ali Kebab wrote:

I like this one by David Reeves.

http://newyork.timeout.com/sites/timeou … es.jr1.jpg

l'm not a fan of such built up shoulders, but it does certainly get the point across, this man MEANS business. But the pocketsquare needs to not be so big. Obviously important in a creative field (hopefully), so he can wear monks and doesn't need a tie.

The_Shooman wrote:

Ali Kebab wrote:

I like this one by David Reeves.

http://newyork.timeout.com/sites/timeou … es.jr1.jpg

l'm not a fan of such built up shoulders, but it does certainly get the point across, this man MEANS business. But the pocketsquare needs to not be so big. Obviously important in a creative field (hopefully), so he can wear monks and doesn't need a tie.

I am going to have David make me a suit. We have been talking in e-mail over the last few days.  I am curious to see what he can do.  My original thought was a traditional SB suit but I am now thinking DB.  I purchased some cloth over the winter and have this itch to try something mod but traditional  . . . I think he can pull it off.

Last edited by g- (2012-03-23 20:56:21)

Film Noir Buff wrote:

fxh wrote:

The top suit looks good but a bit tight. I'd like to see it in action, walking, talking, or something. I agree the cuffs don't work. The shirt and tie see very incongruous witha DB to me. Appropo of other threads and FNBs interests, the shirt and tie seem very American choice to me. More suited to a sport jacket look.

A suit should be fitted. That cardboard cutout pose is his signature. Maybe I could but some FNB.com cards in the pocket for passers by to take.

I'm aware that that is the Artist Formerly Known as Vox. But I'd like to see outfits from the perspective of the other side a board/meeting table or standing around or sitting or giving a presentation or even tying a shoelace or doing some photocopying or getting in and out of a car......

Film Noir Buff wrote:

Shirt and tie are indeed American. Nothing wrong with that, is there? Americans will choose darker shirt dyes for business than the English will. They will also choose ties with a ground color that matches the suit. That's very American, very NYC.  We have more sunshine in the USA and can take stronger colors. Also, we wear lighter suit colors which sometimes calls for darker shirts. One thing we dont wear a lot of is lilac. Purple is fine but lilac shirts or ties can start a riot.

Nothing wrong with that American look* but it seems to undersell a DB to me. I'd like to see a white (or pink or lilac!) or striped shirt or even with a Duchampesque tie.

I think Reeves has got it down a bit better with understanding a DB suit. Although the no tie button up look wont work with most people. I'd like to see that Reeves in a pinned or tabbed collar and tie with that shirt. Hell I reckon he'd understand and pull off  a restrained ruffled cuff and placket with that suit. Is it just me or do others think Reeves would look better (more hip) with a slightly longer jacket and flared skirt?

The whole sunshine - brightness of light thing is a big issue here. We possibly have more light than almost anywhere. Especially say outside Melbourne. I don't think we've come to grips with it all that satisfactorily to my mind. Well perhaps outside of some (very) casual wear like early Mambo work.

I'm sure meister and prince nez in Sydney have grappled with the light and heat a bit ...????

edit:: * The thread title was / is Best TBritish double breasted

Last edited by fxh (2012-03-24 02:37:17)

fxh wrote:

Film Noir Buff wrote:

fxh wrote:

The top suit looks good but a bit tight. I'd like to see it in action, walking, talking, or something. I agree the cuffs don't work. The shirt and tie see very incongruous witha DB to me. Appropo of other threads and FNBs interests, the shirt and tie seem very American choice to me. More suited to a sport jacket look.

A suit should be fitted. That cardboard cutout pose is his signature. Maybe I could but some FNB.com cards in the pocket for passers by to take.

I'm aware that that is the Artist Formerly Known as Vox. But I'd like to see outfits from the perspective of the other side a board/meeting table or standing around or sitting or giving a presentation or even tying a shoelace or doing some photocopying or getting in and out of a car......

Film Noir Buff wrote:

Shirt and tie are indeed American. Nothing wrong with that, is there? Americans will choose darker shirt dyes for business than the English will. They will also choose ties with a ground color that matches the suit. That's very American, very NYC.  We have more sunshine in the USA and can take stronger colors. Also, we wear lighter suit colors which sometimes calls for darker shirts. One thing we dont wear a lot of is lilac. Purple is fine but lilac shirts or ties can start a riot.

Nothing wrong with that American look* but it seems to undersell a DB to me. I'd like to see a white (or pink or lilac!) or striped shirt or even with a Duchampesque tie.

I think Reeves has got it down a bit better with understanding a DB suit. Although the no tie button up look wont work with most people. I'd like to see that Reeves in a pinned or tabbed collar and tie with that shirt. Hell I reckon he'd understand and pull off  a restrained ruffled cuff and placket with that suit. Is it just me or do others think Reeves would look better (more hip) with a slightly longer jacket and flared skirt?

The whole sunshine - brightness of light thing is a big issue here. We possibly have more light than almost anywhere. Especially say outside Melbourne. I don't think we've come to grips with it all that satisfactorily to my mind. Well perhaps outside of some (very) casual wear like early Mambo work.

I'm sure meister and prince nez in Sydney have grappled with the light and heat a bit ...????

edit:: * The thread title was / is Best TBritish double breasted

One thing, American men are unlikely to wear a Duchamp tie. It will differ from region to region and socio-economic factors will come into play as well as confidence but on the whole, American men are uneasy both with paisley ties and floral ties. Certain color combinations make them uneasy too. It's not just a matter of cultural preference but wardrobe. Most American men will not have shirt colors they feel will coordinate with a Duchamp tie; and they feel they need to coordinate shirt and tie colors. If Duchamp changed their colors to say a burgundy tie with an ochre device, it would be more popular in the USA.

It would be interesting to know who is ordering wearing Duchamp ties from a national and occupational standpoint. However, I feel like Duchamp does not make enough ties to get a real sampling of any one place's tastes. I would imagine there are enough men in Manhattan who would wear a Duchamp tie to buy out the whole collection every year and yet remain unobserved by me.

You will also notice that many American men are slaves to the separate patterns with solids or weak patterns mentality. You will here compensatory language along the lines of a bold chalk stripe suit needs to be offset with a solid shirt and/or tie, or that someone cant "get away" with something. I never realized, until I began researching clothes, that so many American men were on the lam because of their wardrobes.

Film Noir Buff wrote:

g- wrote:

Film Noir Buff wrote:

Listen, I walk around in the fashion capital of the world amongst people who wear the most bizarre things imaginable and they trip over themselves when I do something interesting. You haven't lived until you make a  guy with a short dreads fauxhawk in a pink short sleeved shirt and bright red bow tie trip over himself to see your shirt and tie combination. Sometimes looking nice causes more consternation than dressing like you're from the fuuutuuure.


Make sure you put a mad lining in the jacket and wear it with a checked shirt from Harvie and Hudson.

I actually told someone about your lining today, FNB--a woman I work with.  She asked why I didn't have one in my jacket.  I told her - you gotta have big ones for that. I am working my way there.

Is the Huddersfield site the only one that you can buy the J J Minis cloth from?

To my knowledge that is the only way to get that cloth. I dont buy a lot of Minnis cloth but then I have no issue with its quality either.

You mean my burlesque lining? Pfft, Americans rarely notice that stuff because it's outside of their philosophy. It's always Europeans who notice.

I bet your tailor can get hold of/probably carries Minnis/H&W/J.G.Hardy books.