I've actually not seen this phenomenon as you describe with a lot of frequency.

However, I suspect, if it is true, that the people who deride the fine fabrics are those who yearn for the days of Gary Cooper, et al when heavy worsteds, etc. were the mainstay fabric of suits. Beyond the fact that the traditional wools tend to have a certain heft that drapes quite well.

Personally I'm not actually too fond of the newer fine fabrics as I find them too thin for my liking.

Last edited by Incroyable (2006-04-04 15:11:13)

I think that the objection to fabrics with thinner yarns comes about for two main reasons-

1. They are not as durable.  People want to be able to wear a 4K suit for longer than a couple of years if heavyish wear
2. They wrinkle a lot more than 80's or 100's

As to their being so pleasantly decadent, there isn't a huge amount of contact with your skin.

I think that there are certainly good arguments on both sides of the issue.

If decadence is what you desire then perhaps something such as white camel hair, vicuna, silks, and various other obscure textiles should be fitting.

I think kenperes may be interpreting the other posters differently than they intended.

I personally do not conside a Super 80 or Super 100 cloth to be a "coarse, rough" fabric.  I am among those who have written that they are the backbone of my work wardrobe. I own cashmere jackets - I love cashmere jackets - but not to wear ten hours a day.

Super 180s have their place, but most will not argue that they wrinkle relatively easily, are relatively fragile and are relatively more difficult to tailor. For me, luxury cloths are for evenings and public appearances.

(This post was started half a day before it was completed and later posters have made the points I intended to make better than I.)

Last edited by Will (2006-04-04 18:35:56)

I've got to say that I think that a good quality 12/13 oz super80's cloth feels nice to the touch and tailors well. There is a reason why the Savile Row guys like to work with this stuff. Added to that, it wears well and won't crease so easily, as noted above. The sentiment that it's worn by thin & "soft" people is tripe. Still, the super 120's/150's and cashmere blends/pure cashmeres have their place.

Marc, your bomb shelter analogy is apt: the war on super 80's cloth has begun. I highly recommend stockpiling. This will enable you to select cloth in the comfort of your own home. In my opinion, the best way to select cloth is at your leisure - rather than at the tailor’s. And if a tailor won't accept a customer's own cloth, then it speaks volumes about the tailor.

I recommend that you try sourcing your own cloth. Only I warn you that there’s no going back.

Super 180s wardrobes are for Saudi princes.