Mr. James wrote:

Leer R. wrote:

A new question: what's the Ivy League 'rule' for weddings? I suppose there would be the same dress code as for british weddings...? Meaning morning dress or stroller suit (stresemann) at least for the groom if it is very formal, dark suits (preferably navy)  or gray suits if it's more or less informal... no button downs and knitted ties. Although underdressed is preferred to overdressed, meaning no stroller or morning dress when everyone else including the groom is wearing a dark suit... what would be your opinion on that?

I think it depends entirely on the formality of the wedding. Certainly all the classics can be worn, but, equally, just a suit. Why not a BD & knit tie ?  Check first before rolling up. Usually you'll be told anyway.

I got married down The Kings Road in the old Town Hall in a Brooks Brothers Blazer, Flannels from Sam Browne, Wine Tasselled Weejuns, Candy Stripe Blue/White Brooks OCBD (This was before they changed the name to the University stripe later in the '90s), Grey on Grey Burlington Argyles and a Rep tie I bought from Liberty's the day before - Just stripes with no meaning in Blue, Gold & Burgundy.  Mrs Jim wore Nicole Farhi.  1990, this was.  Sandwiches and drinks at the Ritz after, home to fuck, and then off to Boston, New England & The Cape for a month the next day.

No buttonhole & no pocket square.

I went off on Honeymoon in a Brown Herringbone Tweed & Chinos.  Mrs Jim wore Agnes B.

Later to please Mr. Jim we had the marriage blessed by the Bishop of London & I wore a Charcoal 3/2 job from J. Press, Black Weejuns, Black Socks, White Brooks BD & a Navy Silk knit tie.  The Bride wore Black.

Of course it's a personal thing... like with everything. I've seen people dressing at their wedding in fucking too big white 3 piece suits... Probably my question was misleading. I think thought more of "what would be a typical Ivy League/East Coast style wedding - what would be the dress code?". And I'm sure you looked spot on perfect at your wedding(s)!

^^^ Could be Liam.

Hmm.. sure they're not Vietnam issue khakis, 1966?

I am sure that different manuifacturers used different cuts. But I also can think of different cuts for different purpose (like Liam suggested), for different branches of military. McQueen was an Air Force officer in "The Great Escape", so probably pilot's chinos weren't as baggy as others?

The Woolster wrote:

The Mcqueen thing was just a joke Leer. I'm sure the man just wore his own.

That's also possible...

Axelist wrote:

Black shoes. I grew up in a world of mostly black shoes. Brown shoes often were frowned upon. Now I like and own shoes with a wider range of colours: chocolate/sand/white/burgundy. And some black shoes.

Somehow I get the feeling that black shoes are a no-go not only for many on here, but also for the trad world. Why is that? On "historical" pictures you see a variety of colours, which includes black. Isn't black better for formal occaisons? What about "no brown after six"? Is this a cultural thing of the anglo-american culture? I am really interested.

For me black shoes are a "to go" especially on formal occasions. I guess with American traditional clothing there should be no problem wearing black shoes, especially for formal occasions - American trad or better, Ivy League has a big british input, and there brown shoes are the no go in a non casual environment...

Many pics from the Boom Years show people with black shoes - especially with navy, charcoal and dark brown suits, also with navy Blazer and gray trews - if I'm not wrong...?

Leer R. wrote:

Of course it's a personal thing... like with everything. I've seen people dressing at their wedding in fucking too big white 3 piece suits... Probably my question was misleading. I think thought more of "what would be a typical Ivy League/East Coast style wedding - what would be the dress code?". And I'm sure you looked spot on perfect at your wedding(s)!

I'd think you'd still see a spectrum of WASPy weddings (Have I got you right this time?) - Some people pleasing themselves and other people being concerned about doing the 'right' thing.

Off to China from 10 days in late June.  Besides taking six shirt and tie combinations for six days of conferences and meetings, I was wondering about pocket squares.  I just think it is as easy as using a white handkerchief, but are there better alternatives?  My ties range from ancient madder to military with perhaps a Scrooge McDuck thrown in for a little whimsy.

Mr. James wrote:

Yeah, the bias against Black is just online revisionist stuff - Turning a personal taste into a 'rule' that never was.

+1.

Axelist wrote:

Black shoes. I grew up in a world of mostly black shoes. Brown shoes often were frowned upon. Now I like and own shoes with a wider range of colours: chocolate/sand/white/burgundy. And some black shoes.

Somehow I get the feeling that black shoes are a no-go not only for many on here, but also for the trad world. Why is that? On "historical" pictures you see a variety of colours, which includes black. Isn't black better for formal occaisons? What about "no brown after six"? Is this a cultural thing of the anglo-american culture? I am really interested.

'No brown in town' is what normally gets thrown at me when I turn up at work in any thing other than black shoes. It's quite outdated thinking really, but when I look at the majority of business men they are wearing black. Ken Clarke MP (a jazz fan) has stoically worn brown suede shoes at Westminster for many years and this is so unusual it has become his trade mark.

I have one each of black wingtips, loafers and gibsons but the rest of my shoe collection are shades of brown or burgundy. I could happily exist with burgundy shoes alone, in my eyes it is by far the ivyest of shoe colours with light tan coming a close second.

Hmmm, The modern cognac colour is probably closer to tan then? The modern Burgundy I guess is wine... but shinier. What was the port like?

I really like these 'Zarson' limited edition. That leather looks very soft and no gloss to be seen. Is this colour something Bass used to offer or is it new?

Haven' figured out that cool-cat-multiple-answer thing, so a big thanks to all who replied. Although it is small sample, I would say you're right. I agree that burgundy maybe is the most "ivy colour". But black shoes do have their place.

I think in Germany, some traditions are not as rigid asin the UK, but when it comes to real formal, black shoes are my first choice.   

Not that I spend much time on other forums, but on the rare occaisons I do, I really get the impression that there is some sort of crusade against wearing black shoes going on. Just wonder when that started.