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#1 2012-07-26 02:15:12

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 95

The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?

Young Mr. Chensvold's latest piece (which is wrong) contained this one nugget: "There is no such thing in England as Ivy with a modern twist."

Now, while I love idea that we are the true die-hards, more traditional than the Trads, there is yet again a wonderful paradox in what he wrote because in England Ivy itself is Modern to us. We know the English tradition on which it was built and so we find anything Ivy to be a new twist itself just by its very nature.

Interesting ?

So if Ivy is always going to be something Modern to us (and it is), then it's easy to see how it can also be Modernist and Mod. It's a style without any 'Tradition' in England apart from having a Modern / Modernist tradition.

I could be wrong, but what do you think?

Jim.

 

#2 2012-07-26 02:29:36

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 95

Re: The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?

I think also that we see the Ivy style as classic, hence our rejection of any further lame marketing incarnations like 80s Preppy. And yet our pre-eminent Ivy designer in England, John Simons, always keeps the classic look current. Never 'With a twist', which is naff, but more with the sense of a living tradition of Ivy style that lives on always appropriate for its times.

Another gap in Chensvold's Ivy knowledge exposed.

He also neglects the 30-odd years of the 'Ivy' style's existence before it was named 'Ivy' as a marketing tool and he contradicts himself by saying that Ivy and Preppy are one and also that they are branches of the same tree.

He really just wants to lump the two together for his advertisers as there are more Prep brands than Ivy & that's what he's after.

I anticipate that Richard Press will offer us some kind of 'What's in a name?' piece next. Well, we marketing men know better than all that.  wink

Jim.

 

#3 2012-07-26 03:09:50

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 95

Re: The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?

The Ivy League Style : Modern Classics !

Jim.

 

#4 2012-07-26 04:24:15

Goodyear welt
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 1554

Re: The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?

Complicated I think Jim, RL isn't Ivy or is it Ivy with a modern twist? Tommy H is in the same boat. Prep isn't Ivy or is it Ivy with a modern twist? Polo, Tommy H and Prep are all very popular and can be seen everywhere. Clearly this is modern Ivy to most people, if, they know where the roots of the brands/style come from. Otherwise its just clothes.

Or is he talking about people that reject the above for past period Ivy? In which case I'm sure the same can be said of lots of Americans.


Lets be careful out there.

 

#5 2012-07-26 04:34:38

Oo Bop Sh'bam
Ivy Iconoclast
From: within.
Posts: 4067

Re: The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?

I always like the bright colours of prep, for some reason though people think that ivy was typically a sober affair, but if you look at adverts from the time and the pieces zach and darcy turn up, you can see things were just as lively then. If you wanted it that way, you could by loud and youthful. The main thing is, does prep style look as good as ivy to me, well no it doesn't but i still like elements. An ideal for me would be an english van jac, that looks to ivy, appeals like prep to the young, and sits along side hackett or jack wills in 'the marketplace'.


''If I can't share my faith in Christ here, I'd just as soon not have to put up with people advocating drug use.''

 

#6 2012-07-26 04:42:25

Patrick_Fields
Ivy Original.
From: The Thames Valley
Posts: 76

Re: The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?

Just the usual culture clash isn't it?
Ivy league was the latest thing over here in my day. The latest fashion from abroad which then put down roots and grew a following here. I think it was all fashion in America too and that's why they keep changing the name and making up new ones. They want it to be a tradition but they don't have any traditions so they manufacture them.
Talking of "with a twist" Ivy clothes are just English clothes with a twist. Is America now after English clothes with a twist with a twist? That sounds like a twist too far to me!

Only Chubby Checker can decide on this one!

Last edited by Patrick_Fields (2012-07-26 04:44:11)

 

#7 2012-07-26 04:47:57

Oo Bop Sh'bam
Ivy Iconoclast
From: within.
Posts: 4067

Re: The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?

The way to end such twisting is classic menswear i guess, but even that gets a spruce up every decade.


''If I can't share my faith in Christ here, I'd just as soon not have to put up with people advocating drug use.''

 

#8 2012-07-26 04:58:20

Patrick_Fields
Ivy Original.
From: The Thames Valley
Posts: 76

Re: The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?

Not to contradict anyone but I'd say contemporary classics. Classic clothes for now without any of the "left field" fashion stuff.
Remembering Preppy it was fashion. It wasn't classic at all if you knew the classics. I might be too conservative but I thought it was a rip off of the classic style and a debasing of it. A fashion industry cash-in on those who knew no better. All throughout Preppy you could still buy Ivy so why get involved in such a silly advertising campaign? It was for kids.

 

#9 2012-07-26 06:45:13

Yuca
Member
Posts: 3068

Re: The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?

Patrick_Fields wrote:

Only Chubby Checker can decide on this one!

Hank Ballard = ivy, Chubby Checker = prep


'some sort of banal legitimacy'

 

#10 2012-07-26 07:04:37

fxh
Big Down Under.
From: Melbourne
Posts: 4190

Re: The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?


To do: insert constantly changing witty, knowing and slightly ironic literary quote or reference.

http://sexyankles.tumblr.com/

 

#11 2012-07-26 07:07:51

MarkCoyle
Member
Posts: 410

Re: The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?

I think the terms Modern, Modernist and Mod are now so debased and out of context generally as to be unuseful for our discussions.  The 'Modernists' of the mid-late 1950s, being modern-jazz inspired London youngsters but without a scene label were inspired by the Ivy League look of visiting USA GIs.   So the Modernists were directly taking from Ivy League and then evolved gradually into Mods where Ivy League style was part of the stylistic mix that faded away.   By the mid-1960s Mod was peak lapels, ticket pockets, twin vents etc.   Loafers were increasingly replaced with desert shoes (not just boots), hair was no longer Boston cuts, shirts losing their button downs and becoming long pointed types and so on. 

So I suggest for a few weeks or months we just drop the terms and let them rest, particularly in a Bradley Wiggins week where Mod is featuring again in articles.

 

#12 2012-07-26 07:07:59

fxh
Big Down Under.
From: Melbourne
Posts: 4190

Re: The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51tqLC5LVFL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


To do: insert constantly changing witty, knowing and slightly ironic literary quote or reference.

http://sexyankles.tumblr.com/

 

#13 2012-07-26 07:11:51

fxh
Big Down Under.
From: Melbourne
Posts: 4190

Re: The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?

http://njmonthly.com/downloads/6778/download/Chubby_Checker_2.jpg


To do: insert constantly changing witty, knowing and slightly ironic literary quote or reference.

http://sexyankles.tumblr.com/

 

#14 2012-07-26 07:15:23

Oo Bop Sh'bam
Ivy Iconoclast
From: within.
Posts: 4067

Re: The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?

When i see modernist i think mr. L. Johnson, and mr. S. Songhurst.


''If I can't share my faith in Christ here, I'd just as soon not have to put up with people advocating drug use.''

 

#15 2012-07-26 10:06:39

Goodyear welt
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 1554

Re: The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?

I love you Bop. I've read with great interest Pat F's posts. It seems the same still rings true of the term "Mod" today, just a word used to sell things to kids and middle aged folks that really should know better. Thankfully there is still a few of us modernists about that embrace design as well as good clothes. I think the two go hand in hand. When I think modernist I think fantastic cut and fabric, modern classic is good. Soft Italian tailoring is good, Anglo is good, the bright colours of casual Ivy is good, LVC is good. Where Ivy is lacking is in suiting and smart items. Modern fabrics are much better than those of the boom years. If someone made boom years styling in a nice S150 with a bit of cashmere it'd sell like hotcake, not just to Ivyists and sussed Mods but to anyone with an eye to good design. Thats the kind of modern twist I'd like to see on Ivy.

Until Chens gets an eye for design and sorts his home decor out I'm afraid his view point on anything that should be done with aesthetics in mind counts for less than a middle east nomadic goat herders view point.


Lets be careful out there.

 

#16 2012-07-26 10:18:32

4F Hepcat
THE Cat
Posts: 7355

Re: The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?

MarkCoyle wrote:

The 'Modernists' of the mid-late 1950s, being modern-jazz inspired London youngsters but without a scene label were inspired by the Ivy League look of visiting USA GIs.

I think you will find that Liverpool had Modernists in abundance too in this period: those like the 'Cunard-Yanks' who were actually in New York regularly, working class lads with access to modern jazz and who were bringing it back. It wasn't all London-centric and most GI's were not based in London post-war.

Another thing, London compared to the continent was extremely restrictive in allowing American jazz musicians into the country to play. Even Chet in his prime was not allowed to play!

London was not the open jazz city as we allow ourselves to sometimes be conned into thinking: Paris and Stockholm were much more receptive. Modern jazz was deep underground.


Vibe-Rations in Spectra-Sonic-Sound

 

#17 2012-07-26 10:19:55

The Spectre
Member
Posts: 100

Re: The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?

'Mod' suffers from an identity crisis, as does 'Ivy'.
Those who study the styles understand, but to Joe Public 'Mod' is Parkas and targets and 'Ivy' is Varsity cardigans and boatshoes on the campus.

We should unite in our love of Modernist style...

 

#18 2012-07-26 10:29:32

4F Hepcat
THE Cat
Posts: 7355

Re: The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?

I think Mod has in someway replaced the Teds - you know the ones who were still middle-aged teddy-boys in the 70s and 80s and who through lifestyle choices didn't hang around much longer. I remember plenty of these types in my childhood and when I first started work.

Mod is the same, (and let it be known, The Jam was not a Mod band: they just has a Mod as a leader. I still consider them part as punk/New Wave) and now its middle-aged dudes declaring themselves as unrepentent mods to the grave.


Vibe-Rations in Spectra-Sonic-Sound

 

#19 2012-07-26 10:34:56

The Spectre
Member
Posts: 100

Re: The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?

Agreed.

But if someone asked to describe how I dressed I couldn't say Ivy. Because it's not, none of us are.

 

#20 2012-07-26 10:35:07

Goodyear welt
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 1554

Re: The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?

Does that apply to anyone or just the under 30s Speccy?


Lets be careful out there.

 

#21 2012-07-26 10:40:31

The Spectre
Member
Posts: 100

Re: The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?

If you are a young man and the fresh off the campus look is your bag. Then the 'Ivy' tag is possibly appropriate. For a 50 year old , English, state educated northerner like myself, I think it's a bit preposterous to label oneself 'Ivy'...

 

#22 2012-07-26 10:48:52

Goodyear welt
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 1554

Re: The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?

I was meaning the; We should unite in our love of Modernist style... comment.


Lets be careful out there.

 

#23 2012-07-26 11:08:39

Liam Mac
Ivy Avenger
From: Beyond!
Posts: 4789

Re: The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?

4F Hepcat wrote:

London was not the open jazz city as we allow ourselves to sometimes be conned into thinking: Paris and Stockholm were much more receptive. Modern jazz was deep underground.

Is this perhaps why Londons Jazz scene in the 50's was so closely linked or indistinguishable from the blues and folk scene? Was it just a case of good jazz being thin on the ground so the talent was pooled?

I always think that scene would have been a great melting pot of influence, wonderful to be a part of. How real my fantasy ideal of that time is I have no idea.


"You've gotta get up close like this and - bada-BING! - you blow their brains all over your nice Ivy League suit."

suits/jackets 36/37S. waist 29-30. shirts 14.5/15 32.

 

#24 2012-07-26 11:10:16

MarkCoyle
Member
Posts: 410

Re: The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?

Hepcat - that's true, but popular historical reccollection/imagination/legend/myth centres on London about this period.   I'm sure other port cities did have a similar ebb and flow.   The reason I have mentioned GIs in London as that it is documented record by those at the time who in interviews recalled that their inspirations of that time were seeing American's in their clothes around Soho.    We know that Liverpool was one of the main points of cultural exchange and where a fair chunk of the UK's 'race' records of the time came in as packing, which were key references in the evolution of style from the clothes worn on the covers (and of course the music within).

This whole conversation is why I said the terms are now so debased we need to stop using them.  With that, I bow out of this and any other conversation related to Mod for the forseeable future.

 

#25 2012-07-26 11:18:50

The Spectre
Member
Posts: 100

Re: The Modern, The Modernist And The Mod ?

Then I fear we shall not hear from you for a while, here on Mod Noir Buff a division of Modculture Worldwide...

 

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