You are not logged in.

#26 2012-12-13 01:54:58

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 757

Re: In Praise of Prints

woofboxer wrote:

My Grandfather's Pants wrote:

The conservative thing was talked up on here and other places because it suited some people's tastes I think, ok you might not want to go crazy, but the important thing is the cut should be Ivy, and as mid century american clothing thrived on being bright with strong prints, I mean, it was the new fabric technology of the time!

.
A much wider range of clothing styles are discussed on this forum than was the case 2 or 3 years ago and I'm not overly enthused by the new trend.

Personally I'm still fixed on the Brook Bros type of style, largely conservative and understated. Small checks, stripes and plain colours are for me, I want to look 'smart' for want of a better word, but without standing out too much. Quality clothing and 'grown up' dressing .... with a twist.

Apart from the odd venture into madras during the summer months; loud colours, bold checks and patterns are not my idea of 'ivy'.  Neither do I want to look as though I've just come off shift at the local sawmill, so unless I'm actually going out into the countryside for a walk etc, workwear is not for me ..... just a hipster phase.

Boardshirts, trainers, baseball caps - come on guys this is kids stuff that is worn by the 'eternal teenagers'. The fact that's it a few years old and you bought it off Etsy doesn't change that fact.  How long before someone starts a hoodie thread?

You could say there's room for everything and all tastes, but at what point does the forum cease to be about ivy clothing?  Probably some time ago.

I couldn't have put it better myself. I have been a lurker on this site for several years and enjoyed the earlier stuff. I have only recently started posting but as an old Ivy git I can't relate to much of the recent posts. Recent trends on this site seem to suggest that almost anything goes so long as it is vintage and Made in USA. I wouldn't want to place strongly defined limits on what is acceptable but surely there have to be some  boundaries.


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#27 2012-12-13 02:05:28

Armchaired
Ivy I.V.
From: Old England
Posts: 7403

Re: In Praise of Prints

^^
Robbie ,  the print stuff isn’t my bag either but its a broad church with room for all surely?
The whole Ivy label is subjective with all of us having a slightly different take. Some ultra conservative traditionalists and some willing to explore the whole Americana bit. If we want to stay stuck in a time warp at 1963 or something it will make for a very staid and stagnant forum. A good example of that is AAAT, its almost like they are waiting to be put to sleep. I say have no limits , lets disagree . Lets make mistakes, lets look like idiots, the journey will be the fun part.


“My therapist told me that I over-analyze everything. I explained to him that he only thinks this because of his unhappy relationship with his mother.”

 

#28 2012-12-13 02:15:59

Acton_Baby
Member
From: West London
Posts: 3683

Re: In Praise of Prints

Armchaired wrote:

^^
Robbie ,  the print stuff isn’t my bag either but its a broad church with room for all surely?
The whole Ivy label is subjective with all of us having a slightly different take. Some ultra conservative traditionalists and some willing to explore the whole Americana bit. If we want to stay stuck in a time warp at 1963 or something it will make for a very staid and stagnant forum. A good example of that is AAAT, its almost like they are waiting to be put to sleep. I say have no limits , lets disagree . Lets make mistakes, lets look like idiots, the journey will be the fun part.

Well said !
Not just 'white collar', not just 'blue collar' but plenty 'o' button down collars.


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#29 2012-12-13 02:26:59

Moose Maclennan
Ivy Inspiration
From: Hernando's Hideaway
Posts: 4577

Re: In Praise of Prints

Reyn McCullough's story fits in well here:

In November 1959, Reyn opened his first Hawai‘i retail store within the Ala Moana Shopping Center.

“What my dad introduced to Hawai‘i was classic clothing – natural, Ivy League traditionalism,” said Tim McCullough.  “Quite a bit more conservative than the resort look he had offered in Avalon.  My dad felt the only way he’d have any success in Hawai‘i was to go after something other than the resort business, because everybody was already doing that here.  Reyn introduced clothing for the aspiring entrepreneur / businessman who someday would be the boss--the guy who could be a little more updated in his style.  Being a Jazz musician and enthusiast, Reyn had a real sense for the contemporary feeling he wanted his clothing to evoke.  Essentially, he brought more “hipness” to Hawai‘i.”

The first two years he was open, Reyn would not allow printed apparel in his store, which meant no Aloha shirts.  Tim McCullough remembered that his father never really embraced the Aloha shirt idea until Tom Anderson, his Ala Moana store Assistant Manager, brought him Pat Dorian’s original “reverse” print shirt.

“Reyn liked it,” Tim McCullough added.  “But he envisioned an Ivy League styling to complement the Reyn’s look. This had never been done.  Reyn said, ‘Why not make it like Gant’s ’Hugger’ body pullover sports shirt with a button-down collar?’”
The kind of shirt McCullough envisioned in 1961 was the classic Oxford cloth shirt, like those introduced by Brooks Brothers more than half a century before.

“Reyn could have just made patterns from the Gant shirts he carried in his store; however, being of high ethical standards he determined it would be best to approach the Gant Company first,” said Tim.  On his next buying trip back to New Haven, Connecticut, Reyn worked with his supplier and long-time friends, well-known brothers within the industry, Elliot and Arthur Gant.  He shared his idea of updating the Hawaiian shirt with a new Ivy League body style.  Upon hearing of his concept, they allowed him to borrow their pattern for the Ivy League short-sleeve, pullover, button-down-collar, “Hugger” shirt.  They were so enamored with Reyn’s idea that they introduced him to their French pattern maker on Fifth Avenue in New York City to obtain his own set of patterns.  Returning to Hawai‘i, Reyn took the pattern to Ruth Spooner of Spooner’s of Waikiki where he was manufacturing swimwear, and Spooner began making the new-style Aloha shirt for Reyn’s.  It was a more conservative, “traditional” pullover reverse shirt with a button-down-collar and tails to tuck into slacks.
“Reyn’s was now dressing Hawai‘i businessmen with an ingenious ’island’ dignity,” said Tim McCullough.  “And it sold like hotcakes overnight, becoming the shirt of choice for Honolulu’s movers and shakers.  Surfers loved it too, because it had that faded “authentic” look and a touch of Ivy League style.”

“The best, original reverse shirt was that Gant model that Reyn did,” agreed Nat Norfleet, Jr. of Kahala Sportswear.  “Reyn had probably the best taste of any guy I knew at that young age.  I loved Reyn’s taste.  Excellent.”


source: http://themohs.org/Reyn_Spooner.html

 

#30 2012-12-13 02:40:45

Acton_Baby
Member
From: West London
Posts: 3683

Re: In Praise of Prints

^ Lovely spot Moose,
I've been hunting for a good Reyn Spooner for years, they always seem to end up going for silly money.
They are one of the big vintage labels for the LA swing scene.

The actor Nicholas Cage is a collector and tried to buy the company name to start his own reissue label a few years back (before he lost loads of money in the recent 'crash').


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#31 2012-12-13 02:56:04

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: Staines-upon-Thames, Middlesex
Posts: 5903

Re: In Praise of Prints

My Grandfather's Pants wrote:

Also WOof, did you post a photo of you in a batik style top, or have I just began to make up things in my head, that look good on you with your jeans. Not particularly conservate, also when you where you dark plaids under you sports jacket in my mind that's less conservative. I'm not trying to unpick what you said, I just remember seeing these things and thinking they were cool and worked on you, and I didn't see the outfit as looking conservative.

I can't imagine that I would have done anything like that and if I did it's certainly not within my recollection .......

I don't have any Batik things.  I will cough to owning a paisley shirt that I bought from Lloyd in a rash moment a few months ago, I've worn it on one occasion and will probably do so about once a year when I want to aggravate Mrs Woof smile

Wearing a shirt with a small plaid pattern under a sports jacket is still a smart turnout with a note of casual and a world away from a surfer look.

I do like Moose's post about Hawai though.


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

 

#32 2012-12-13 03:00:44

12BarBlues
Mr. Ivy
Posts: 2477

Re: In Praise of Prints

I have to say that I agree that there's a hell of a lot of stuff discussed more recently that isn't Ivy. Not that it bothers me, I quite like a bit of Americana and work wear even though i don't wear it. I think that this thread is well within the realms of Ivy though, these sorts of prints on button down shirts were part of the look at one point. If there's an over prevalence of threads on topics that don't interest then the best idea is to start threads on the topics that you want discussed. This place would be fairly dead at the moment if all that was posted about was strictly conservative Ivy.


"To be honest I do like FNB...I always feel one of the thunderbirds when I say it."

 

#33 2012-12-13 03:01:44

Armchaired
Ivy I.V.
From: Old England
Posts: 7403

Re: In Praise of Prints

That was most excellent moose and sort of frames this whole discussion really.
In my forty something years on this planet, there is one thing I have learned that i bare in mind in my various dealings and occasional disappointments.
There isn’t anything in this world that completely stands still. Be it time itself, business or your personal life. Anything that attempts to stand still ultimately stagnates and dies without exception. The ethos of the clothes is timeless but not the clothes at some stage vintage will practically disappear, what then?.As I see it, we on this forum look back in time for inspiration but we must incorporate that into modern life (we have no choice).Putting parameters onto something that is subjective  is difficult enough, discarding things because they are not to our personal taste is a nail in the coffin.

Last edited by Armchaired (2012-12-13 04:04:09)


“My therapist told me that I over-analyze everything. I explained to him that he only thinks this because of his unhappy relationship with his mother.”

 

#34 2012-12-13 05:40:53

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: In Praise of Prints

Liking all this -

Cue pic of Townshend with the High Numbers in a Batik BD & a pale Linen Ivy jacket. With a cup of tea.

All styled by Meaden.

 

#35 2012-12-13 06:17:03

The Woolster
Ivy Antenna
Posts: 1778

Re: In Praise of Prints

Thanks Moose. I didn't know about the Reyn - Gant connection.

 

#36 2012-12-13 06:23:42

The Woolster
Ivy Antenna
Posts: 1778

Re: In Praise of Prints

12BarBlues wrote:

I have to say that I agree that there's a hell of a lot of stuff discussed more recently that isn't Ivy. Not that it bothers me, I quite like a bit of Americana and work wear even though i don't wear it. I think that this thread is well within the realms of Ivy though, these sorts of prints on button down shirts were part of the look at one point. If there's an over prevalence of threads on topics that don't interest then the best idea is to start threads on the topics that you want discussed. This place would be fairly dead at the moment if all that was posted about was strictly conservative Ivy.

What he said. We're all here because we like Ivy. I can't see what's the harm in exploring stuff that 'goes with Ivy', even if it's kids stuff. I don't think anyone has seriously suggested that boardshirts or baseball caps are Ivy. I mean we have loads of threads about jazz and absolutely nothing at all, so why draw the line here?

Besides, hoodies are Ivy are they not wink

http://blog.ctnews.com/meyers/files/2010/07/pretty4.jpg

 

#37 2012-12-13 06:24:05

12BarBlues
Mr. Ivy
Posts: 2477

Re: In Praise of Prints

Neither did I. Great little snippet of info.


"To be honest I do like FNB...I always feel one of the thunderbirds when I say it."

 

#38 2012-12-13 06:35:18

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: In Praise of Prints

The Woolster wrote:

12BarBlues wrote:

I have to say that I agree that there's a hell of a lot of stuff discussed more recently that isn't Ivy. Not that it bothers me, I quite like a bit of Americana and work wear even though i don't wear it. I think that this thread is well within the realms of Ivy though, these sorts of prints on button down shirts were part of the look at one point. If there's an over prevalence of threads on topics that don't interest then the best idea is to start threads on the topics that you want discussed. This place would be fairly dead at the moment if all that was posted about was strictly conservative Ivy.

What he said. We're all here because we like Ivy. I can't see what's the harm in exploring stuff that 'goes with Ivy', even if it's kids stuff. I don't think anyone has seriously suggested that boardshirts or baseball caps are Ivy. I mean we have loads of threads about jazz and absolutely nothing at all, so why draw the line here?

Besides, hoodies are Ivy are they not wink

http://blog.ctnews.com/meyers/files/2010/07/pretty4.jpg

/\ I want to do that look next.  Kinda 'Garp' too.

Cool.

 

#39 2012-12-13 08:20:03

Liam Mac
Ivy Avenger
From: Beyond!
Posts: 4789

Re: In Praise of Prints

woofboxer wrote:

I will cough to owning a paisley shirt that I bought from Lloyd in a rash moment a few months ago, I've worn it on one occasion and will probably do so about once a year when I want to aggravate Mrs Woof smile

Wearing a shirt with a small plaid pattern under a sports jacket is still a smart turnout with a note of casual and a world away from a surfer look.

I do like Moose's post about Hawai though.

That paisley BD was the only interesting thing you've posted recently Woof. Don't play it down. It was lovely. And it wasn't that small a pattern. It was pretty out there. I'd link it here but it appears to have been deleted. Which is convenient.

And who mentioned a surfer look? Who even mentioned Ivy before you posted to say that these shirts weren't?

You say you do the 'largely conservative' (that largely is a nice wee get out of jail free card) Brooks Brothers look? With a twist?

I'm sure we are all bored ridged of people saying they are doing things (Ivy, Mod, whatever strict ethos you follow that week blah blah blah) "with a twist" but just to labour the point, what do you think your "twist" is Woof? I don't get that.

The shirts I listed are part of the look. Like it or not. The labels and the details are all there. The initial picture was taken from a Japanese magazine from 1959. That pre dates the 'surfer look' if that's what ill informed label you want to attach to it.

How many threads on the first page contain the word 'Ivy' as if it's  some kind of way of life. Haven't you heard? they are just clothes. Nice clothes, yes, but just clothes. We can discuss whatever we want here as long as the details are right, and here the details are right.

What's the big difference between a madras shirt or sack jacket and a printed button down shirt anyway? Neither is very conservative, both were worn in the Boom years of the look by man and boy. The only difference that i can see is that today the revisionists have elevated Madras to almost mythical status and prints have been left behind somewhat.

Honestly some people here get sucked in by the marketing even today. Look at the details, look at the cut, if it's right it's right. You don't like it fine, don't wear it it, but don't palm it off as somehow less authentic or as 'kids stuff'. You don;t like the topic, post a better one but you shouldn't complain when someone posts original discussion when you are not.



Moose, thanks for that. That was a great insight. I didn't realise the Gant connection either.


"You've gotta get up close like this and - bada-BING! - you blow their brains all over your nice Ivy League suit."

suits/jackets 36/37S. waist 29-30. shirts 14.5/15 32.

 

#40 2012-12-13 08:24:50

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: Staines-upon-Thames, Middlesex
Posts: 5903

Re: In Praise of Prints

I knew this forum was a lost cause when people started posting about body warmers smile


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

 

#41 2012-12-13 08:31:29

Liam Mac
Ivy Avenger
From: Beyond!
Posts: 4789

Re: In Praise of Prints

You can't go out shooting deer in a Crombie Woof.


"You've gotta get up close like this and - bada-BING! - you blow their brains all over your nice Ivy League suit."

suits/jackets 36/37S. waist 29-30. shirts 14.5/15 32.

 

#42 2012-12-13 08:34:51

Moose Maclennan
Ivy Inspiration
From: Hernando's Hideaway
Posts: 4577

Re: In Praise of Prints

If you were just like stabbing them a Crombie would do fine.

 

#43 2012-12-13 08:36:33

Armchaired
Ivy I.V.
From: Old England
Posts: 7403

Re: In Praise of Prints

What would you wear on your tootsies?

Gunboats or Duckboots?


“My therapist told me that I over-analyze everything. I explained to him that he only thinks this because of his unhappy relationship with his mother.”

 

#44 2012-12-13 08:39:55

Moose Maclennan
Ivy Inspiration
From: Hernando's Hideaway
Posts: 4577

Re: In Praise of Prints

Liam Mac wrote:

That paisley BD was the only interesting thing you've posted recently Woof. Don't play it down. It was lovely. And it wasn't that small a pattern. It was pretty out there. I'd link it here but it appears to have been deleted. Which is convenient.

Nah, still there, looking as good as ever:

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z406/woofboxer/IMG-20120715-00227-1-1.jpg

Last edited by Moose Maclennan (2012-12-13 08:43:51)

 

#45 2012-12-13 08:42:48

Moose Maclennan
Ivy Inspiration
From: Hernando's Hideaway
Posts: 4577

Re: In Praise of Prints

Armchaired wrote:

What would you wear on your tootsies?

Gunboats or Duckboots?

Deerslayers of course:

http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/4303/deerslayercollage.jpg

 

#46 2012-12-13 08:44:09

Liam Mac
Ivy Avenger
From: Beyond!
Posts: 4789

Re: In Praise of Prints

"Hang on hear me out, I can wear it once a year because it will annoy my wife."
http://i879.photobucket.com/albums/ab355/liammacdonald28/tumblr_ly9kvorK731rnste0o1_500.jpg

"With a twist you say? Hmm, I'm not convinced."
http://i879.photobucket.com/albums/ab355/liammacdonald28/tumblr_ly9l0d8tCn1rnste0o1_500.jpg

Steve on the phone to Woofboxer; "Yeah, she looks really annoyed Woof, good tip."
http://i879.photobucket.com/albums/ab355/liammacdonald28/586_hnjnfvjnzjy0njv0.jpg

"Dear Diary, today nobody liked my shirt.... Even when I told them it was Ivy with a twist."
http://i879.photobucket.com/albums/ab355/liammacdonald28/tumblr_lyp9xfdGLB1rnste0o1_500.jpg

For Moose and Woolster.
http://i879.photobucket.com/albums/ab355/liammacdonald28/lg_IMG_4224.jpg

For Woof. See, they did market workwear as fashion in the 60's. Everything's going to be alright!
http://i879.photobucket.com/albums/ab355/liammacdonald28/tumblr_lzcg1zvWOk1rnste0o1_500.jpg


"You've gotta get up close like this and - bada-BING! - you blow their brains all over your nice Ivy League suit."

suits/jackets 36/37S. waist 29-30. shirts 14.5/15 32.

 

#47 2012-12-13 08:45:41

Sammy Ambrose
Member
Posts: 3522

Re: In Praise of Prints

Liam Mac wrote:

[Woofboxer says he does]  the 'largely conservative' (that largely is a nice wee get out of jail free card) Brooks Brothers look? With a twist?

... what do you think your "twist" is Woof? I don't get that.

Obviously Woof will have to speak for himself; but as one who agrees with and feels that he understands this 'manifesto', I'd say the words 'largely conservative' conjure up an image that's plain enough not to require exegesis.

As for the twist: well,  it's that bit which isn't conservative, but rather a bit edgy and contemporary, and which, when juxtaposed against the conservatism, creates just enough surprise to  move the wearer of such clothes away from the stolidly mundane.


If you aren't seeing through all three eyes at once day and night you are up shit creek without a paddle. The Shooman

 

#48 2012-12-13 08:48:39

Liam Mac
Ivy Avenger
From: Beyond!
Posts: 4789

Re: In Praise of Prints

Moose Maclennan wrote:

Nah, still there, looking as good as ever:

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z40 … 27-1-1.jpg

I can't see it. Must be a problem at my end. I can see a thumbnail if I google (which is much better than trying to remember what thread and how far back an image is) but that's it.

Anyway, it is a great shirt. I think I would wear it more than once a year anyway.


"You've gotta get up close like this and - bada-BING! - you blow their brains all over your nice Ivy League suit."

suits/jackets 36/37S. waist 29-30. shirts 14.5/15 32.

 

#49 2012-12-13 08:50:17

Liam Mac
Ivy Avenger
From: Beyond!
Posts: 4789

Re: In Praise of Prints

Sammy Ambrose wrote:

As for the twist: well,  it's that bit which isn't conservative, but rather a bit edgy and contemporary, and which, when juxtaposed against the conservatism, creates just enough surprise to  move the wearer of such clothes away from the stolidly mundane.

I find a nice medallion print does this well.


"You've gotta get up close like this and - bada-BING! - you blow their brains all over your nice Ivy League suit."

suits/jackets 36/37S. waist 29-30. shirts 14.5/15 32.

 

#50 2012-12-13 08:51:27

Sammy Ambrose
Member
Posts: 3522

Re: In Praise of Prints

Liam Mac wrote:

Sammy Ambrose wrote:

As for the twist: well,  it's that bit which isn't conservative, but rather a bit edgy and contemporary, and which, when juxtaposed against the conservatism, creates just enough surprise to  move the wearer of such clothes away from the stolidly mundane.

I find a nice medallion print does this well.

I'd say that pushes it towards what we used to call 'divvy'.


If you aren't seeing through all three eyes at once day and night you are up shit creek without a paddle. The Shooman

 

Board footer

Powered by PunBB
© Copyright 2002–2008 Rickard Andersson