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#1 2013-03-11 21:16:36

katon
Member
Posts: 234

19th century Brooks Brothers

The period after the Civil War, when Brooks moved out of their Cherry Street birthplace and started to swim upmarket in earnest, is a very interesting time in Brooks history.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/mbanu/princeton1890.jpg
(Daily Princetonian, December 5, 1890)

Here's an interesting ad for "double-breased sack suits of rough and smooth faced cheviots", "free from any stiffness of appearance"... Did the Brooks double-breasted sack arrive before the introduction of the No. 1 sack suit?

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/mbanu/1890tuxedo.jpg
(Daily Princetonian, June 9, 1890)

"Tuxedo dress sacks". 1890 seemed to be when Brooks became interested in advertising in the Ivy League papers -- these same ads were running in the Yale Daily News as well.

Last edited by katon (2013-03-11 21:56:52)

 

#2 2013-03-12 01:56:29

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: 19th century Brooks Brothers

Very interesting isn't it? A marketing campaign to link themselves to Ivy as early as that. Pre-Brooks Ivy students dressed differently. Pre-Brooks the aspirational dressed differently. It all rewinds to marketing.

Certainly America has a culture, but when it comes to these clothes it starts with the clothiers driving the market.

 

#3 2013-03-12 03:08:43

Thee Captain
Member
Posts: 3108

Re: 19th century Brooks Brothers

A "double-breasted sack suits of rough and smooth faced cheviots" sounds delightful indeed....

I've been on the look out for a double breasted jacket for some time now - didn't carpu65 do some excellent stuff on this a while back?

Just come across this where he's put some great images up: sure it was all up here previously but always worth another look...
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/in … topic=2001

Absolutely adore the 1930s Brooks Brothers double breasted


I'm Thee Captain son and I haven't had any dinner... I'm also a Love Stealin' Bandit and that Brother Sheriff is your chick on the back of my horse...
http://www.theecaptainsofsuave.com/
A Rogue in a Brogue

 

#4 2013-03-12 09:11:02

Russell...Street
By any other name...
Posts: 100156

Re: 19th century Brooks Brothers

I suppose there were both single breasted and double breasted sack suits before the #1 sack suit at Brooks Brothers, as there were single breasted as well as double breasted ones, single vented and double vented ones, darted and undarted sack suits around in Euope at the time...

And Brooks were offering these fashions for the New York man. I don't think that they had developped their own style in the 19th century. It was mainly European/ especially English styles.


42R | 16.5/34 | 34/30 | US 10D/UK 9.5E
"Horses, horses... horseshit!"

“As honest as you can expect a man to be in a world where its going out of style.”  - Raymond Chandler

 

#5 2013-03-12 09:23:55

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 2262

Re: 19th century Brooks Brothers

Russell...Street wrote:

I suppose there were both single breasted and double breasted sack suits before the #1 sack suit at Brooks Brothers, as there were single breasted as well as double breasted ones, single vented and double vented ones, darted and undarted sack suits around in Euope at the time...

And Brooks were offering these fashions for the New York man. I don't think that they had developped their own style in the 19th century. It was mainly European/ especially English styles.

+1. smile


http://maennergarderobe.blogspot.co.at

BB Makers shirts: 15.5/33, BB #1, 2 or 4 suits: 38R

 

#6 2013-03-12 09:25:18

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 2262

Re: 19th century Brooks Brothers

Thee Captain wrote:

A "double-breasted sack suits of rough and smooth faced cheviots" sounds delightful indeed....

I've been on the look out for a double breasted jacket for some time now - didn't carpu65 do some excellent stuff on this a while back?

Just come across this where he's put some great images up: sure it was all up here previously but always worth another look...
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/in … topic=2001

Absolutely adore the 1930s Brooks Brothers double breasted

Those double breasted Brooks thingies are tempting, aren't they? wink

Last edited by Leer R. (2013-03-12 09:26:50)


http://maennergarderobe.blogspot.co.at

BB Makers shirts: 15.5/33, BB #1, 2 or 4 suits: 38R

 

#7 2013-03-12 10:46:53

carpu65
Member
Posts: 1305

Re: 19th century Brooks Brothers

Russell...Street wrote:

I suppose there were both single breasted and double breasted sack suits before the #1 sack suit at Brooks Brothers, as there were single breasted as well as double breasted ones, single vented and double vented ones, darted and undarted sack suits around in Euope at the time...

And Brooks were offering these fashions for the New York man. I don't think that they had developped their own style in the 19th century. It was mainly European/ especially English styles.

I  think that Brooks Brothers "sack suits" in 1890s were not different from a well cut European lounge suit.
In those days the divergence between American sack and European lounge suit had not yet verified.
The change happens in Edwardian times,when British tailors introduce a new silhouette more shaped,with darts,light padded shoulders, pleats on trousers.
The BB n-1 sack suit is an direct evolution from 1890s sack (lounge) suit: infact the style is called "conservative" (because the new English styles and the later drape cut were "innovative").

American sack suit of 1890s:

http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/3376/tumblrmc6o6wotxg1r1bhqr.jpg

British lounge coat of 1890s:

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/8937/2006am1000jpgl.png

A young Winston Churchill in lounge suit (1895):

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/7362/winstonchurchillwithhis.png

The beginning of change in King Edward VII times:The Edwardian lounge suit:

http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/1599/edwardian.png

Concerning  the double breasteds in 1890s were rather boxy (and obviously undarted):

http://img802.imageshack.us/img802/4137/1900schaffy.png

This is a rare advertising of Brooks Brothers 1931 with the n-1 sack DOUBLE BREASTED (to the right):

http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/4489/brooks1931.png

Note the details: the double breasted coat is three buttons roll two (look at the unbuttoned buttonhole  on the lapel).
The coat is undarted,and the shape of the lapels are cut very similar to the  double breasteds of 1890s.
Sack n-1 single and double breasted are the direct (and conservative) evolution of 1890s coats; is a fossil!
In Europe the evolution was different.

Last edited by carpu65 (2013-03-12 10:51:10)

 

#8 2013-03-12 10:50:19

Thee Captain
Member
Posts: 3108

Re: 19th century Brooks Brothers

Great stuff Carpu65...


I'm Thee Captain son and I haven't had any dinner... I'm also a Love Stealin' Bandit and that Brother Sheriff is your chick on the back of my horse...
http://www.theecaptainsofsuave.com/
A Rogue in a Brogue

 

#9 2013-08-18 02:53:55

Russell...Street
By any other name...
Posts: 100156

Re: 19th century Brooks Brothers

A bump for this, as it shows that around 1900 styles in the USA and in Europe were still similar.

Brooks might have had developped their style by this time already. They were simply more conservative than the Europeans and kept the natural shoulder undarted sack coats.


42R | 16.5/34 | 34/30 | US 10D/UK 9.5E
"Horses, horses... horseshit!"

“As honest as you can expect a man to be in a world where its going out of style.”  - Raymond Chandler

 

#10 2014-03-24 21:54:21

carpu65
Member
Posts: 1305

Re: 19th century Brooks Brothers

Russell...Street wrote:

They were simply more conservative than the Europeans and kept the natural shoulder undarted sack coats.

Exact!

 

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