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#26 2007-04-24 18:54:35

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: The perfect BD


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#27 2007-04-24 18:55:30

kenperes
Member
Posts: 584

Re: The perfect BD

 

#28 2007-04-24 18:56:59

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: The perfect BD


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#29 2007-04-25 05:34:44

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: The perfect BD

Last edited by Alex Roest (2007-04-25 05:36:18)

 

#30 2007-04-25 06:02:07

longwing
Member
Posts: 198

Re: The perfect BD

Horace,  The BB oxfords that I bought a few months ago were sloppy at the button holes having fabric threads left dangling.  Also the cuff pleats were very poorly done.  I might not have noticed either of these issues if I didn't iron the things myself.  I do like their cuff pleats when done right, but these were not.

Another point in favor of the BB is the lack of the gauntlet button.  I wish I could find some nice broadcloth shirts sans gauntlet button.

 

#31 2007-04-25 16:13:52

rsmeyer
Member
From: Chevy Chase, MD
Posts: 751

Re: The perfect BD

 

#32 2007-04-27 19:08:26

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: The perfect BD


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#33 2007-05-01 07:18:29

The Style Council
Member
From: Nr London, England
Posts: 100

Re: The perfect BD

Has anyone heard of 'Soul of 65'??? I have a few of their BD shirts and I really like the collar, the roll and shape, cloth from Italy, nicely tapered, well priced and from the foremost county of fashion and culture here in England.... Essex!!    wink


http://www.soulof65.com/

 

#34 2007-05-01 07:47:00

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: The perfect BD


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#35 2007-05-01 09:01:39

Get Smart
Member
Posts: 1106

Re: The perfect BD

I'd seen the soul of 65 site before, but never known anyone that bought anything from them.  Their site always struck me as "too mod" which makes me think of Merc and its ilk

thanks for the mini-review StyleCouncil, good to know you got some nice shirts from them

Last edited by Get Smart (2007-05-01 09:02:54)

 

#36 2007-05-02 03:13:18

The Style Council
Member
From: Nr London, England
Posts: 100

Re: The perfect BD

This thread started by Alex writing about Gant BD's, then Brooks and Mercer have obviously been discussed, but what about 'American Arrow'? In the book I was reading last night and in other articles I have read about the early modernists the Arrow shirt is mentioned more so than Brooks or Mercer, etc. I think it was Ken Browne who said "... So we bought Ivy League jackets and American Arrow shirts from Austins..." They haven't been mentioned on any other message boards, not that I have seen.

So a couple of questions... Were these shirts popular in the US? I'm not familiar with these shirts, so how do they differ in cut, etc, to Brooks? Are they still available? I know John Simons had some in a good few years ago. A picture would be nice!

 

#37 2007-05-02 04:09:56

The Style Council
Member
From: Nr London, England
Posts: 100

Re: The perfect BD

Hi Get Smart,

'Soul of '65' are nothing like 'Merc', but is one man's vision, similar to your own 'Thick as Thieves' line?. They offer RTW, MTM and a bespoke service using quality fabrics, etc, certainly not like 'Merc's' rubbish.. plus their website isn't great.

Sorry if my post sounded like an advert, I just think they're a good alternative and am impressed by their clobber. I'll stop now and go and collect my commission.  wink

 

#38 2007-05-02 05:18:46

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: The perfect BD

Arrow shirts were very popular with the slightly Mod-like Kikkers in The Hague during the 60s. They're still readily available over here but always strike me as somewhat 'safe' if you will. I prefer lacoste myself as for patterns and sleevelength to name but a few things, not fit necessarily but I don't find that a problem as for daywear nor the pub really. A looser fitting BD that is.....

http://www.arrowshirt.com/home.aspx

 

#39 2007-05-02 06:27:25

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: The perfect BD


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#40 2007-05-02 06:28:42

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: The perfect BD


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#41 2007-05-02 08:09:39

Coolidge
Member
Posts: 1192

Re: The perfect BD

Mercer is my pick  for fit, sizing, and material (and in some cases colors, as I will elaborate).  Dad, who first found out about them probably 15 years ago in some magazine ads (Atlantic Monthly maybe?), swears they are like the old Brooks construction...however, there is debate on that as there are plenty of old pictures (this has been mentioned by others here) with much slimmer fits on probable Brooks BDs than Mercer's cut could possibly provide.

Either way, I like the fabric and construction better.  Also I see Mercer's yellow as an improvement on Brooks's, I've mentioned that before. Everyone has noted that there was an 'old' yellow color that was better than all the current offerings.  However, Brooks still has the classic pink.  Mercer's is more subdued. Brooks of course still offers those green and peach colors that it had in the mid 80s through MTM, at least that is what Intrepid said.

I too was somewhat disappointed with Brooks MTM.  I find (Horace, you may have mentioned this yourself) that the sleeves on Brooks sizing seem to be shorter than other companies' sizes.  On anyone else---Mercer, Press, even JAB from whom I own a couple of forward points, I am a clear 34.  However, the Brooks MTM came out too short.  Now, it could have been my error...maybe generic 34s fit me but an exactly tailored 34 doesn't and I should've measured.  But it seemed about a half inch too short and I'm a little annoyed.  I still wear it, but the sleeves just peak out on jackets.

I have only two shirts from Press...tuxedo shirt with fold down collar and a blue/white butcher stripe BD.  I would say these both fit more or less the same as the Brooks, except that the sleeves seem to be the correct length.

I agree that Mr. Mercer is nice to deal with and, unless he is out of your size, quite prompt in getting things delivered.  Also not excessively expensive.  You may not use my name. smile He doesn't know it anyway since my dad places the orders--Mercers are an annual Christmas gift.

 

#42 2007-05-02 09:02:15

Get Smart
Member
Posts: 1106

Re: The perfect BD

 

#43 2007-05-02 15:42:10

rsmeyer
Member
From: Chevy Chase, MD
Posts: 751

Re: The perfect BD

 

#44 2007-05-02 16:09:31

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: The perfect BD

Who was it that measured all those old oxfords and found the current Brooks were the same as the old Brooks?
Was it Raj? Horace, you must remember.

Unscientific, but it did sort of question the memories of some.

TV

 

#45 2007-05-02 16:17:32

Coolidge
Member
Posts: 1192

Re: The perfect BD

 

#46 2007-05-02 21:10:49

longwing
Member
Posts: 198

Re: The perfect BD

 

#47 2007-05-03 06:24:50

longwing
Member
Posts: 198

Re: The perfect BD

Last edited by longwing (2007-05-03 06:25:42)

 

#48 2018-05-14 01:34:24

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: The perfect BD

What happened to Longwing?  I was going to start another thread on something, and did the ol' search to see if it had been discussed and came up with this thread.  I suppose I owe ol' Longy a reply after 11 years.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#49 2018-05-14 13:51:28

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1926

Re: The perfect BD

Here, BD with tie used to be the style of public servants, engineers, IT people, accountants - all of the unwashed sort. That has changed, as aforementioned people usually don't wear ties at work at all. Tie + BD is now the signature style of "in the know", forum-populating, half-ironic, 1960ies Harvard Professor and NASA engineer's love child middle aged white men.


I LOVE , this foum

 

#50 2018-05-14 13:54:56

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1926

Re: The perfect BD

Personally, I have only very little experience with BD shirts. I wore Ralph Laurens for 15+ years not realising how awful they are. At the moment I have 1 (!) white Oxford one from T&A which is getting better and better.


I LOVE , this foum

 

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