A good piece here by Guiseppe from An Affordable Wardrobe about how the history of companies like Brooks is subject to myth and how people believe certain things about the history of a style because that is what they like believing.
http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.co.uk/2013/10/legend-and-reality.html
Last edited by woofboxer (2013-10-07 15:29:05)
I still think vintage looks like the better option, it is often affordable, you get the details you want, it is typically made better. Sometimes I think the readiness to accept modern offerings by some bloggers is because it allows them to become commercial.. or maybe they're genuine and actually like what is being afford. Personally I think if you can buy something from a store today that fulfils your needs then why not? But in the same way a new vw beatle looks like the old beatle... its never going to be the same. . that's the difference some people are menswear enthusiasts others are maybe vintage menswear enthusiasts?
Im probably best described as a collector and revivalist so I dont think there is going to be much cop me buying new stuff.. unless i really think it is adaptable, but if I just wanted to look good then I have the freedom to buy anything I like.
Like I said I think for a lot of menswear bloggers the only hope for them to move on is for modern offerings to become desired by the readership. So they can retain a readership and expand on it.
Last edited by Bop (2013-10-08 00:10:33)
I'm trying to buy new stuff at the moment, as it keeps people gainfully employed. Why complain about the state of the economy when you're only buying dead stock and vintage stuff from pre-1965?
People like myths, even sartorial ones and why not? Well, the risk of course, is that the myth creates a cod pastiche that just looks ridiculous.
100% agreement with Giuseppe.
I sometimes felt myself trapped in the myth, but when I bought some superbly made new items (no Ivy stuff) that were really affordable, I compared them to my vintage stuff (that has been really affordable, too - but originally cost a fortune back in the day). And what can I say? It isn't that easy. Vintage isn't the better quality just because of "back in the day everything has been better"- sometimes it is, sometimes not (Ray Bans for example were better).
My vintage Ripley's sports coat is really nice but can't compare to a new H&M €129,-- jacket that I bought (quality wise, stylewise they are very different, of course).
My 2008 Gibson J-45 is better than most vintage J-45s. Although the internet will tell you, vintage guitars are ALWAYS better than new ones. Real musicians won't
Also my vintage Brooks stuff is good, but not always better than the new stuff (I like my vintage OCBDs better because of the total lack of lining in the collar, but the cloth seems to be slightly better with the new - US made - ones).
I would instantly buy affordable new stuff if it looks, fits and feels right. Especially Ivy stuff...
Last edited by Leer R. (2013-10-08 02:32:58)
I liked the piece by Giuseppe as well. For instance, I don't wear the non-iron shirts myself, but I am pretty impressed that Brooks Brothers, after inventing the most copied shirt in the world, actually managed to do it again. I'm not a hardline Ivy-ist at all compared to any of you. I worked around old clothes for too much of my life; I no longer want to wrestle them out of smelly racks, cobble together outfits that are compromised versions of what I would have worn "in the day", or walk around with that nagging feeling that my outfit proceeds me by two or three feet.
I would gladly wear head-to-toe modern clothing. I have to weigh the economics. I could get a new tweed sack for $1300. It will be well made and I'll like it. Or I could get a vintage tweed sack for something on the order of $5 and it will be well made and I'll like it. There's nothing like brand new clothes, but I also find joy in happening across great vintage pieces. With Ivy, you can have both.
Last edited by stanshall (2013-10-08 09:39:38)
^^
This is the way to do it! A mix of new and vintage with an emphasis on NOS and rare items that are hard to find new. And agreed 100%. Never for shoes but jackets sunglasses cotas and shirts are great vintage finds
Last edited by Worried Man (2013-10-08 11:09:36)
Last edited by Yuca (2013-10-08 13:18:38)
The quality of Brooks clothing wasn't relevant to the theme of the post, which was that Brooks did not confine themselves to ivy staples like classic three button sack suits as some online clothing enthusiasts (trads?) would have you believe. They produced styles that sold, as they continue to do today. There would be no need to avoid the issue of quality as it had naff all to do with his article.
People venerate and wear Surgical appliance trainers from the 80s, some of them are talk Ivy members too. I'm sure people will venerate Superdry T shirts in years to come, someone will buy up the name in 25 years from now and launch a heritage collection.
Last edited by woofboxer (2013-10-08 13:38:03)
Last edited by Worried Man (2013-10-08 14:13:16)
It's Goodyear Welt. Right?