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#76 2013-12-20 18:13:28

Senorservo2.0
Member
Posts: 767

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper

^^
That's the Look! A man can walk into work, court, a bank or a date night and look the biz in the classic cut clothes. The trim look from the sixties IMO raises more eyebrows and is more over stylized than something with a little more room and classic proprtions.

Pants look better with a bit less tapper - a relaxed fit is far more professional IMO. Don't get me wrong, there's a time and a place for everything, today i wore a trim cycling polo with jeans but that's the right fit for cycling shirt.

For dress pants, shirts and jackets I find a slight relaxed fit to be more elegant and functional. The boom years were great and although I love looking at the old pictures I really enjoy the look Stan describes.

Last edited by Senorservo2.0 (2013-12-20 18:16:48)

 

#77 2013-12-21 05:50:17

Russell...Street
By any other name...
Posts: 100156

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper


42R | 16.5/34 | 34/30 | US 10D/UK 9.5E
"Horses, horses... horseshit!"

“As honest as you can expect a man to be in a world where its going out of style.”  - Raymond Chandler

 

#78 2013-12-21 06:25:26

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper

 

#79 2013-12-21 06:27:10

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper

Of course Ivy is "cool" to us.  I think Leer is talking about how "outsiders" perceive the look in a current context.  Not to put words in his mouth.  I could be wrong.  Maybe he really does think ivy is lame, but then why would he have any interest in it?  Personally, I only like stuff I think is cool, man!


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#80 2013-12-21 07:14:39

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper

As long as thats all you're trying to put in his mouth

 

#81 2013-12-21 07:41:52

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#82 2013-12-25 06:00:56

Russell...Street
By any other name...
Posts: 100156

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper


42R | 16.5/34 | 34/30 | US 10D/UK 9.5E
"Horses, horses... horseshit!"

“As honest as you can expect a man to be in a world where its going out of style.”  - Raymond Chandler

 

#83 2013-12-25 06:04:40

Russell...Street
By any other name...
Posts: 100156

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper

Last edited by Russell...Street (2013-12-25 06:18:08)


42R | 16.5/34 | 34/30 | US 10D/UK 9.5E
"Horses, horses... horseshit!"

“As honest as you can expect a man to be in a world where its going out of style.”  - Raymond Chandler

 

#84 2013-12-25 06:24:52

Russell...Street
By any other name...
Posts: 100156

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper


42R | 16.5/34 | 34/30 | US 10D/UK 9.5E
"Horses, horses... horseshit!"

“As honest as you can expect a man to be in a world where its going out of style.”  - Raymond Chandler

 

#85 2013-12-25 06:33:20

farrago
Ambassador Of Ivy
From: Now in SFO
Posts: 1087

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper

Thanks for this bit of nostalgia. Over the past few weeks I had been recalling how the Brooks post Xmas sale was a premier event.

The post card announcing the sale would arrive around Thanksgiving or a bit after. Going down to Brooks a week or two before the sale to pick out suits and sport coats, which would be fitted for alterations but rung up on December 26th. You wouldn't ordinarily pick up your garment on the 26th. The alterations tailor had a backlog. The garments were usually ready after the new year.

On Dec. 26th, there would be a line around the block, all waiting for the opening at 9 a.m. And then there would be a controlled riot, not unlike feeding time at a shark tank, at the shirt and tie display cases, where the Brooks salesmen had placed all the goodies on top of the cases. OCBDs flew out the door by the dozen.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to one and all.

 

#86 2013-12-25 06:34:24

farrago
Ambassador Of Ivy
From: Now in SFO
Posts: 1087

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper

Thanks for the photos of Herb Caen!

 

#87 2013-12-25 08:15:58

Russell...Street
By any other name...
Posts: 100156

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper


42R | 16.5/34 | 34/30 | US 10D/UK 9.5E
"Horses, horses... horseshit!"

“As honest as you can expect a man to be in a world where its going out of style.”  - Raymond Chandler

 

#88 2013-12-25 08:57:19

Russell...Street
By any other name...
Posts: 100156

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper

Great article on the ILL blog:


http://theivyleaguelook.blogspot.de/2009/05/clothing-moves-toward-greater-comfort.html


And then there's Press in 1954:

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_wJsrFOB2anc/SfXBmGNgPYI/AAAAAAAAAJw/CgVOKjro9ts/s1600-h/J+Press+New+Haven+Nov+1954.jpg

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_wJsrFOB2anc/SlM9AuO0cBI/AAAAAAAAAe4/u-ayiTCyKg4/s1600-h/press+life+4.jpg

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_wJsrFOB2anc/SfXBh0g7auI/AAAAAAAAAJo/PgINSOdTa8E/s1600-h/J+Press+New+Haven+Nov+1954+2.jpg


http://theivyleaguelook.blogspot.de/2009/04/j-press-1954.html

http://theivyleaguelook.blogspot.de/2009/07/j-press-1954-part-2.html

Last edited by Russell...Street (2013-12-25 09:00:11)


42R | 16.5/34 | 34/30 | US 10D/UK 9.5E
"Horses, horses... horseshit!"

“As honest as you can expect a man to be in a world where its going out of style.”  - Raymond Chandler

 

#89 2013-12-25 10:03:36

Russell...Street
By any other name...
Posts: 100156

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper

Last edited by Russell...Street (2013-12-25 10:04:08)


42R | 16.5/34 | 34/30 | US 10D/UK 9.5E
"Horses, horses... horseshit!"

“As honest as you can expect a man to be in a world where its going out of style.”  - Raymond Chandler

 

#90 2013-12-25 10:24:01

The Thin Repp
Ivy Evangelist
Posts: 1160

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper

One interesting thing I notice in those 1954 J.Press pictures is that the supposed "rule of thumb" regarding jacket length goes right out the window.


http://www.etsy.com/shop/NewtonStreetVintage  Classic Vintage Ivy League Clothing on Etsy.

 

#91 2013-12-25 11:15:52

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8544

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#92 2013-12-26 06:12:51

Russell...Street
By any other name...
Posts: 100156

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper


42R | 16.5/34 | 34/30 | US 10D/UK 9.5E
"Horses, horses... horseshit!"

“As honest as you can expect a man to be in a world where its going out of style.”  - Raymond Chandler

 

#93 2013-12-26 07:36:41

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 3450

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper

 

#94 2013-12-27 08:41:27

Russell...Street
By any other name...
Posts: 100156

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper

Last edited by Russell...Street (2013-12-27 08:46:23)


42R | 16.5/34 | 34/30 | US 10D/UK 9.5E
"Horses, horses... horseshit!"

“As honest as you can expect a man to be in a world where its going out of style.”  - Raymond Chandler

 

#95 2014-01-06 16:28:23

Russell...Street
By any other name...
Posts: 100156

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper

A bump for this nugget, too:

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/viewtopic.php?id=15027

It would be great, if we could dig deeper in the Vaults of Esquire, GQ, Playboy etc...


42R | 16.5/34 | 34/30 | US 10D/UK 9.5E
"Horses, horses... horseshit!"

“As honest as you can expect a man to be in a world where its going out of style.”  - Raymond Chandler

 

#96 2014-01-07 02:15:24

Acton_Baby
Member
From: West London
Posts: 3848

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper

^ Esquire's print archive is in the process of being scanned for an online archive at this very moment.
It may be only available for magazine and online subscribers initially, but some of the money for doing it came from the Smithsonian Institute so at some point it should be publicly available.


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#97 2014-01-07 05:56:25

Russell...Street
By any other name...
Posts: 100156

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper

Last edited by Russell...Street (2014-01-07 06:07:04)


42R | 16.5/34 | 34/30 | US 10D/UK 9.5E
"Horses, horses... horseshit!"

“As honest as you can expect a man to be in a world where its going out of style.”  - Raymond Chandler

 

#98 2014-01-07 06:20:53

Russell...Street
By any other name...
Posts: 100156

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper

Great hair cut on the right, proper short back and sides, left.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_wJsrFOB2anc/SfXBmGNgPYI/AAAAAAAAAJw/CgVOKjro9ts/s1600-h/J+Press+New+Haven+Nov+1954.jpg

And no ones bothered about shirt cuffs.

Last edited by Russell...Street (2014-01-07 06:21:55)


42R | 16.5/34 | 34/30 | US 10D/UK 9.5E
"Horses, horses... horseshit!"

“As honest as you can expect a man to be in a world where its going out of style.”  - Raymond Chandler

 

#99 2014-01-07 06:35:25

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 3450

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper

 

#100 2014-01-07 06:56:02

Russell...Street
By any other name...
Posts: 100156

Re: The famous Boom Years Ivy trouser taper

The thing is that whatever you read, it's not a law set in stone as there were simply basic guidelines that the sleeves shouldn't be too long or too short. Just an 1/8th of an inch of shirt cuff or 1/2" with your arms bent at whatever ankle... Lot of different advise.

These "rules" certainly were not meant to tell anyone to be always conscious about their shirt cuffs.


42R | 16.5/34 | 34/30 | US 10D/UK 9.5E
"Horses, horses... horseshit!"

“As honest as you can expect a man to be in a world where its going out of style.”  - Raymond Chandler

 

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