^^
That's the Look! A man can walk into work, court, a bank or a date night and look the biz in the classic cut clothes. The trim look from the sixties IMO raises more eyebrows and is more over stylized than something with a little more room and classic proprtions.
Pants look better with a bit less tapper - a relaxed fit is far more professional IMO. Don't get me wrong, there's a time and a place for everything, today i wore a trim cycling polo with jeans but that's the right fit for cycling shirt.
For dress pants, shirts and jackets I find a slight relaxed fit to be more elegant and functional. The boom years were great and although I love looking at the old pictures I really enjoy the look Stan describes.
Last edited by Senorservo2.0 (2013-12-20 18:16:48)
Of course Ivy is "cool" to us. I think Leer is talking about how "outsiders" perceive the look in a current context. Not to put words in his mouth. I could be wrong. Maybe he really does think ivy is lame, but then why would he have any interest in it? Personally, I only like stuff I think is cool, man!
As long as thats all you're trying to put in his mouth
Last edited by Russell...Street (2013-12-25 06:18:08)
Thanks for this bit of nostalgia. Over the past few weeks I had been recalling how the Brooks post Xmas sale was a premier event.
The post card announcing the sale would arrive around Thanksgiving or a bit after. Going down to Brooks a week or two before the sale to pick out suits and sport coats, which would be fitted for alterations but rung up on December 26th. You wouldn't ordinarily pick up your garment on the 26th. The alterations tailor had a backlog. The garments were usually ready after the new year.
On Dec. 26th, there would be a line around the block, all waiting for the opening at 9 a.m. And then there would be a controlled riot, not unlike feeding time at a shark tank, at the shirt and tie display cases, where the Brooks salesmen had placed all the goodies on top of the cases. OCBDs flew out the door by the dozen.
Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to one and all.
Thanks for the photos of Herb Caen!
Great article on the ILL blog:
http://theivyleaguelook.blogspot.de/2009/05/clothing-moves-toward-greater-comfort.html
And then there's Press in 1954:
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_wJsrFOB2anc/SfXBmGNgPYI/AAAAAAAAAJw/CgVOKjro9ts/s1600-h/J+Press+New+Haven+Nov+1954.jpg
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_wJsrFOB2anc/SlM9AuO0cBI/AAAAAAAAAe4/u-ayiTCyKg4/s1600-h/press+life+4.jpg
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_wJsrFOB2anc/SfXBh0g7auI/AAAAAAAAAJo/PgINSOdTa8E/s1600-h/J+Press+New+Haven+Nov+1954+2.jpg
http://theivyleaguelook.blogspot.de/2009/04/j-press-1954.html
http://theivyleaguelook.blogspot.de/2009/07/j-press-1954-part-2.html
Last edited by Russell...Street (2013-12-25 09:00:11)
Last edited by Russell...Street (2013-12-25 10:04:08)
One interesting thing I notice in those 1954 J.Press pictures is that the supposed "rule of thumb" regarding jacket length goes right out the window.
Last edited by Russell...Street (2013-12-27 08:46:23)
A bump for this nugget, too:
http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/viewtopic.php?id=15027
It would be great, if we could dig deeper in the Vaults of Esquire, GQ, Playboy etc...
^ Esquire's print archive is in the process of being scanned for an online archive at this very moment.
It may be only available for magazine and online subscribers initially, but some of the money for doing it came from the Smithsonian Institute so at some point it should be publicly available.
Last edited by Russell...Street (2014-01-07 06:07:04)
Great hair cut on the right, proper short back and sides, left.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_wJsrFOB2anc/SfXBmGNgPYI/AAAAAAAAAJw/CgVOKjro9ts/s1600-h/J+Press+New+Haven+Nov+1954.jpg
And no ones bothered about shirt cuffs.
Last edited by Russell...Street (2014-01-07 06:21:55)
The thing is that whatever you read, it's not a law set in stone as there were simply basic guidelines that the sleeves shouldn't be too long or too short. Just an 1/8th of an inch of shirt cuff or 1/2" with your arms bent at whatever ankle... Lot of different advise.
These "rules" certainly were not meant to tell anyone to be always conscious about their shirt cuffs.