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#51 2013-12-17 13:41:05

Armchaired
Ivy I.V.
From: Old England
Posts: 7208

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

No sidewinder you are right it is very interesting i was just playing devils advocate.
it would definitely be interesting to see the swing back .


“My therapist told me that I over-analyze everything. I explained to him that he only thinks this because of his unhappy relationship with his mother.”

 

#52 2013-12-17 13:54:14

Senorservo2.0
Member
Posts: 767

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

Bop wrote:

I suppose if people are highlighting the bits of the style that persisted through the period it makes sense.

Woody Allen through the 70s is an interesting thing to follow quite groovy at the start at least in some interviews and very prep by the end of it. Dont write off the decade!

Agreed - I think is very important that we start to focus more on Ivy during the 70's and beyond. It only enhances the value of the forum, the sixties were great but other periods (the 30's, 40's and 70's and beyond) deserve attention as well.

Last edited by Senorservo2.0 (2013-12-17 13:55:18)

 

#53 2013-12-17 13:57:07

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15919

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

^
Well, you'd better start postin' buddy!


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#54 2013-12-17 14:31:23

Armchaired
Ivy I.V.
From: Old England
Posts: 7208

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

http://i1308.photobucket.com/albums/s612/armchaired/1960s_College_Students_zps99d07d25.jpg


“My therapist told me that I over-analyze everything. I explained to him that he only thinks this because of his unhappy relationship with his mother.”

 

#55 2013-12-17 14:44:25

Armchaired
Ivy I.V.
From: Old England
Posts: 7208

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

http://i1308.photobucket.com/albums/s612/armchaired/recordofclass1964have_0152_zpsa87339a5.jpg


“My therapist told me that I over-analyze everything. I explained to him that he only thinks this because of his unhappy relationship with his mother.”

 

#56 2013-12-17 15:08:41

Sidewinder
Member
Posts: 517

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

1962 Anthropologists...

http://iforce.co.nz/i/qxkbrx1o.4tn.jpg

 

#57 2013-12-17 15:12:28

Sidewinder
Member
Posts: 517

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

16 long years later and the whole world has changed. Multi-cultural, gender mixed, ethnically diverse. Welcome to now.
One lone button-down holding out back row right. The rest is patterns, big collars, sandals and I'd-like-to-teach-the-world-to-sing.

http://iforce.co.nz/i/jrfp1knj.fbk.jpg

Last edited by Sidewinder (2013-12-17 15:14:12)

 

#58 2013-12-17 15:33:13

Senorservo2.0
Member
Posts: 767

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

Worried Man wrote:

^
Well, you'd better start postin' buddy!

someday soon ! I can't post pictures from my phone or tablet and I can't use my laptop or work computer to post pictures. I like to keep my work apart from from my private pursuits. But next year I'll start posting images on weekends when I'm not working.

 

#59 2013-12-17 16:30:34

Charlie Kasso
Member
Posts: 1185

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

This thread actually poses some relevant questions, doesn't it ?
A great thread veering away from boom years and subcultures and jazz ...but the authenticity cannot be denied.

 

#60 2013-12-17 16:32:52

Charlie Kasso
Member
Posts: 1185

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

The girls look like they'd have hairy armpits.
Just sayin'.....

 

#61 2013-12-17 16:50:42

Charlie Kasso
Member
Posts: 1185

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

There was a Cal Tjader compilation from the late 80s which had sleevenotes saying how the band had no idea they were making music that would resonate with an audience years after the event...
This seems to be the case with the people in the above photos also. They were just doing what they were doing at the time.

 

#62 2013-12-17 16:55:55

Charlie Kasso
Member
Posts: 1185

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/uploads/thumbs/5863_hat.jpg


ha ha this guy.

 

#63 2013-12-17 17:31:45

Senorservo2.0
Member
Posts: 767

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

I've been saving pictures from some personal ivy icons from the post boom years period. I have some pictures of my father that were spot on but I have to really look for them. 
The look from that time was a little bit looser/full cut. Preppies liked their clothes baggier than the sixties Ivy guys.

What I learned from my dad and looking at pictures of Woody Allen is to make an item a little baggy and the other one trimmer. Think how Woody Allen circa 77 to 80 wore looser chinos with a trim ocbd. That's always been a great look that came from that period.

Anyways - enough of me talking - this is a really great thread - someone could make their PhD thesis on the relation to the more relaxed clothes to the changing times. I also like the "George Lucas" style that some of these guys had - a bit rugged Americana - lots of those guys never stopped wearing that look - especially on the west coast.

 

#64 2013-12-18 03:18:08

Yuca
Member
Posts: 6725

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

http://www.bowdoindailysun.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Morehouse512.jpg

Last edited by Yuca (2013-12-18 03:18:23)


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#65 2013-12-18 03:35:11

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15919

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

It would behoove us to find some yearbooks from the traditionally black schools.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#66 2013-12-18 05:46:46

Charlie Kasso
Member
Posts: 1185

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

I think we'd find the same pattern over the years as we have seen here, but it would behoove us, yes.

 

#67 2013-12-18 06:34:27

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15919

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

That pic posted of Yuca is total topcoat porn.  BOING!!


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#68 2013-12-18 09:39:48

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 10014

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

Sidewinder wrote:

Crosby's hat predates Lennon's from that insane ensemble he sported on Hey Jude, but as I said Crosby probably just saw the Lennon pic from 'Spaniard in the Works'?[

The Crosby hat's brim is slightly curved upward whereas the Dartmouth guy's hat's brim is flat like Lennon's on the Hey Jude cover.  Slightly different styles of hat, one is a riverboat gambler's hat as seen in a lot of Westerns (Crosby in Byrds) and one is a straight-up Spanish flamenco hat (Lennon's and Dartmouth's).  Besides the fact that they're different hats that Beatles compilation Hey Jude sold millions while the Lennon book was a relative rarity here then and the Byrds' album Younger Than Yesterday though tremendous did not exist in the sheer numbers as Hey Jude the album.  Plus, it's conceivable that people tried to look like Lennon whereas nobody ever tried to look like Crosby.  (Wish I could ask Dennis Hopper about his costume in Easy Rider though because that get-up was reminiscent of Crosby's from 1969 onward ......)


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#69 2013-12-18 09:44:59

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15919

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

Crosby's gambler and cape was always a real bizarre combo.

I recommend...

http://www.di-arezzo.co.uk/multimedia/images/jawbonepress/couv/9781906002152.jpg


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#70 2013-12-18 09:52:22

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 10014

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

Charlie Kasso wrote:

The girls look like they'd have hairy armpits.
Just sayin'.....

Could go either way with the armpits.  But the bikini waxing and the Brazilian waxing was not happening yet with these gals ... it was still decades away from being a widespread practice ...... I mon a de Bush Doctor yeah ...... as Peter Tosh sang so eloquently ......

back to studying the Onitsuka Tigers, the Desert Treks, the Dr. Scholl's sandals, and puka shell necklace in that '78 pic


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#71 2013-12-18 10:50:36

Russell...Street
By any other name...
Posts: 100156

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

Charlie Kasso wrote:

This thread actually poses some relevant questions, doesn't it ?
A great thread veering away from boom years and subcultures and jazz ...but the authenticity cannot be denied.

Hmmm...

But what are these questions and what would be the answers?

Veering away from the Boom Years is a good thing in my book.

The Natural Shoulder Look is certainly not limited to the short time frame of its boom. I think that was never intended by those who started that great Boom Years thread. What it does show, however, is that the look was indeed very popular, all over the USA and beyond during that time, that it was a common, every-man look.

The subcultural connection was always just a footnote, anyway...

The Yearbook thread is great, just like the Tech Ivy thread. Of course, these pictures are authentic, in so far as they show what was worn on Campus.

But what does it actually prove?

To me the answer is pretty simple and obvious and not at all a surprise:

Most students did not wear "Ivy" anymore after the Ivy Boom. They would wear the hippy fashions of the time or a mutation or a mix of Ivy style and the hairy flarey thing.

It's not the other way around as some simpleton would argue: "Once the Ivy Look ceased to be popular on campus, it ceased to be popular on campus." Bullshit!

Ivy went out of fashion by the mid sixties, so in the late sixties it wasn't worn on campus anymore, or at least not much, not even in those universities that gave the look its popular tag.

Of course, we can look at pictures from Dartmouth, Yale, Princeton, Harvard... or Georgia Tech in 1969 or 1970 and we can say these pictures are authentic.  Yes, they are.

Do they show the Ivy Look, though? No, they don't, or rather, not necessarily...

Any barber who knows the terms "Ivy League", "Princeton",  "Harvard clip" or "Collegiate Cut" will think of a short, tapered haircut immediately, something very neat and sober. They'd hardly think of Jesus hairdos and big Afro hair.

Same story with the clothes: If you know the term you think of button-down shirts, khaki chinos, Shetland sweaters, Penny Loafers, sack suits, natural shoulder three-button jackets and plain front trousers... Things like that. You wouldn't think of bell bottoms, beads, biker jackets and slim fit shirts with huge collars or whatever became popular in the late 60s and 70s...

So we can't just say that's all Ivy...

What's interesting, though, is that certain casual classics, that were always part of the wider scope of American style became part of the canon of the look during that time. I'm thinking about down vests and mountain parkas, Topsiders and Bean boots, this sort of thing...

You wouldn't have thought of that as "Ivy" but they're certainly part of the look.

Last edited by Russell...Street (2013-12-18 11:05:22)


42R | 16.5/34 | 34/30 | US 10D/UK 9.5E
"Horses, horses... horseshit!"

“As honest as you can expect a man to be in a world where its going out of style.”  - Raymond Chandler

 

#72 2013-12-18 10:59:05

Yuca
Member
Posts: 6725

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

Russell...Street wrote:

Most students did not wear "Ivy" anymore after the Ivy Boom. They would wear the hippy fashions of the time or a mutation or a mix of Ivy style and the hairy flarey thing.

It's not the other way around as some simpleton would argue: "Once the Ivy Look ceased to be popular on campus, it ceased to be popular on campus." Bullshit!

Ivy went out of fashion by the mid sixties, so in the late sixties it wasn't worn on campus anymore, or at least not much, even in those universities that gave the look its popular tag.

Hardcore natural shoulder purists were far rarer by the late 60s and into the 70s, but the amount of ivy style on campus was certainly much higher than that found on the general population. See Love Story, Paper Chase or the 70s campus photos on HTJ; chinos, Weejuns, OCBDs, etc etc were still very popular, albeit mixed with other fashions of the time.

Last edited by Yuca (2013-12-18 10:59:39)


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#73 2013-12-18 11:08:13

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15919

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

Russell...Street wrote:

Charlie Kasso wrote:

This thread actually poses some relevant questions, doesn't it ?
A great thread veering away from boom years and subcultures and jazz ...but the authenticity cannot be denied.

Hmmm...

But what are these questions and what would be the answers?

Veering away from the Boom Years is a good thing in my book.

The Natural Shoulder Look is certainly not limited to the short time frame of its boom. I think that was never intended by those who started that great Boom Years thread. What it does show, however, is that the look was indeed very popular, all over the USA and beyond during that time, that it was a common, every-man look.

The subcultural connection was always just a footnote, anyway...

The Yearbook thread is great, just likethe Tech Ivy thread. Of course, these pictures are authentic, in so far as they show what was worn on Campus.

But what does it actually prove?

To me the answer is pretty simple and obvious and not at all a surprise:

Most students did not wear "Ivy" anymore after the Ivy Boom. They would wear the hippy fashions of the time or a mutation or a mix of Ivy style and the hairy flarey thing.

It's not the other way around as some simpleton would argue: "Once the Ivy Look ceased to be popular on campus, it ceased to be popular on campus." Bullshit!

Ivy went out of fashion by the mid sixties, so in the late sixties it wasn't worn on campus anymore, or at least not much, even in those universities that gave the look its popular tag.

Of course, we can look at pictures from Dartmouth, Yale, Princeton, Harvard... or Georgia Tech in 1969 or 1970 and we can say these pictures are authentic.  Yes, they are.

Do they show the Ivy Look, though? No, they don't, or rather, not necessarily...

Any barber who knows the terms "Ivy League", "Princeton",  "Harvard clip" or "Collegiate Cut" will think of a short, tapered haircut immediately, something very neat and sober. They'd hardly think of Jesus hairdos and big Afro hair.

Same story with the clothes: If you know the term you think of button-down shirts, khaki chinos, Shetland sweaters, Penny Loafers, sack suits, natural shoulder three-button jackets and plain front trousers... Things like that. You wouldn't think of bell bottoms, beads, biker jackets and slim fit shirts with huge collars or whatever became popular in the late 60s and 70s...

So we can't just say that's all Ivy...

What's interesting, though, is that certain casual classics, that were always part of the wider scope of American style became part of the canon of the look during that time. I'm thinking about down vests and mountain parkas, Topsiders and Bean boots, this sort of thing...

You wouldn't have thought of that as "Ivy" but they're certainly part of the look.

Exactly the problem I'm encountering with Tech Ivy.  It seems that the early '60s were the sweet spot, at least as far as the students are concerned.  I'm going to try to post as much as I can with an eye toward ivy, but as I move further away from this early '60s era, the look is less and less visible - moving back into the '50s it's more floppy collars, huge pleated pants, loop collar type stuff, bomber jackets, etc.  Moving forward into the '70s it gets really far out.  But the plan's to just keep offering up stuff in either direction until the well runs dry.  So, it should be interesting to see how it pans out.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#74 2013-12-18 11:12:13

Russell...Street
By any other name...
Posts: 100156

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

That's right, Yuca. There was still a bit of the look around and the IL unis were probably one of the few strongholds of the look.

What I meant was: Not all of that what we can see in the post-1967 campus pictures is the "Ivy Look". That's why that tag is so problematic, and that's why some are confused.


42R | 16.5/34 | 34/30 | US 10D/UK 9.5E
"Horses, horses... horseshit!"

“As honest as you can expect a man to be in a world where its going out of style.”  - Raymond Chandler

 

#75 2013-12-18 11:16:21

Senorservo2.0
Member
Posts: 767

Re: Yearbook Finds: The Best of Collegiate and School Ivy

The look retreated back to New England. Preppies carried on the look, as did college professors, legal professionals and the business class . It also reverted to being an upper middle class/upper class thing. It seems to go through stages of popularity and now is just IMO a clean american classic look. Shops like jcrew have popularized an updated preppy look with the general public. Tassel loafers and chinos are very popular once again. It all seems to go in cycles.

I work with many older gentlemen, these guys never stopped wearing ivy - weejuns, boat shoes, ocbd are just what they Always wore.  They don't - however - care about plackets, unlined collars or tapper - they are happy to wear the updated made in china versions of the style.

Last edited by Senorservo2.0 (2013-12-18 11:20:57)

 
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