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#1 2014-03-15 05:53:44

Yuca
Member
Posts: 6888

Tropical ivy

Senorservo2.0 wrote:

Yeah we should do a thread on that subject. The Hunter S. Thompson book the Rum Diaries touches upon it even mentioning stores in Old San Juan advertising their clothes as "Ligua Ivy" the movie with Johny Deep was beautiful but the clothes could have been a better.

Tropical Ivy can be a bit like "Dr. No" with Felix Leitef dressed in pure Ivy but also the other characters wearing chinos, polos and softer fabrics with lighter colors. Also "Thunderball" shows some bits Ivy when Bond is on the Bahamas...Hats were important as well as ocbd popovers and bermudas sometimes the shirts were worn untucked with Speerys or tucked in with weejuns and surcincle belts. Sack suits were worm on special days but as I recall rayon and natural fibers have always been a big no no as they are HOT and unbearable in the tropics. Tropical year roun wool, cotton  and linen were and still the way to go.
The only exception being the Aloha Reyn Spooner shirts, they were half cotton and half blend but they are meant to be worn big and oversize to let the wind pass through and the blend prevented wrinkles.

Guayaberas and Rey Spooner shirts were worn with Floresheim loafers (Yumas) and tropical wool Ivy pants with cuffs. The Frank Sinatra movies Tony Rome offer a very real glimpse into what tropical ivy was in Miami Beach during the later years 1967 and 1968. Chinos and shorts were a big part of the lifestyle

To me it's the cooler side of Ivy that doesn't get enough recognition online. 
It's a bit different from the west coast beach boys style but they both share certain items. Tropical Ivy could be more grown up.

It was basically and adaptation of Ivy for the islands, Miami and the Keys. Oh and also the blazer was and still is king in the tropical ivy world. They can be hard to pull off for some people but they are so versatile! I remember my dad wearing his blazer with a polo by the bay during the day and with a tie and ocbd later in the evening when going to town. The blazer with white pants or chinos was used more in the tropics as it was the best substitute for a suit

Sounds beautiful to me.

I notice O'Connell's do an all cotton suit:

http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/images/Z/oconnells-suit-cotton--21521z.jpg


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#2 2014-03-15 05:55:04

Yuca
Member
Posts: 6888

Re: Tropical ivy

stanshall wrote:

Praises, this is such a fantastic post, Senorservo just gets it ... the Jack Lord as Felix Leiter in Dr. No look is something I've been into forever, the khaki poplin sack, ocbd, Indian raw silk tie, and the penny loafers ... just the thing for CIA mischief in the Caribbean .... think it was all fiction?

I wish O'Connell's would sell the old-school brass-clasp madras bathing suits but with front pockets with drainage holes and in the 8- or 9-inch walk short length, can't deal with the 5-inch Richard Simmons style of short shorts but I loves the brass-clasp style ....

Tropical Ivy is also early Ivy ... the sport shirt was invented in Palm Beach in the '20s by the infamous and great architect and bamboozler Addison Mizner, see The Legendary Mizners by Alva Johnston with illustrations by Reginald Marsh (1953) .... what was the Brooks Brothers store in Palm Beach selling from 1928 on?  Lots of Tropical Ivy .....

... the old Jamaica Inn, Ochos Rios, the old Pink Sands in Harbour Island, Eleuthera, Bahamas, all those nice old places where you once had to wear coat and tie for dinner, these were great places to see some high Tropical Ivy .....

your Tropical Ivy could be an soft old ocbd with rolled sleeves worn untucked with a pair of poplin or any cotton walk shorts, no belt, and barefoot, or with your flips (which were worn in the boom era, I've got a picture of a dude in a woven coconut frond hat, ocbd, rolled chinos and flips on the beach in Fort Lauderdale in the '50s, he's standing next to a pair of beach beauties in bikinis and of course he looks great, and so do they .....

The Tropical Ivy could also be a Reyn Spooner shirt, which I love but have never had and have kicked myself forever for lollygagging and missing the ones that J. Press had seven or eight years ago ... Birdwells, Sportif shorts, Lacoste, madras, seersucker, everything soft and rolled and unlined, Topsiders, flip-flops, straw hats, sunglasses, Venetian loafers, the crucial bandanna tri-folded in your pocket for your brow ... Solaro is classic but I preferred the tropical cotton poplin .... or lightweight tropical worsteds ..... with Tropical Ivy you want to be wearing loafers with your suits ... the lace-ups are heavy baggage in the heat, they don't cut it in the summer (love ya, Doghouse!) .....

I like the long-sleeved t-shirts (so my arms don't get burned) and the Birdwells, that's my thing .... 

Freaky Tiki works too .... bits and pieces of the Beach Boys can work too but West Coast Ivy is really its own thing .....

... and you've got to have your Coppertone SPF 4, a dab of Hawaiian Tropic, and a bit of bay rum or lime something or other ...

Thanks Senor, this is a subject dear to my heart and I will gather some more thoughts on the subject for this thread if it happens ....


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#3 2014-03-15 05:56:43

Yuca
Member
Posts: 6888

Re: Tropical ivy

Did we ever get to see the Fort Lauderdale pic?


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#4 2014-03-15 06:09:10

doghouse
Member
Posts: 5092

Re: Tropical ivy

stanshall wrote:

the lace-ups are heavy baggage in the heat, they don't cut it in the summer (love ya, Doghouse!) .....

I see what you did there. lol

I'm strictly a flip flop guy in the Islands my man!


Hide thy infants, hide thy Lady, and hide thy husband, alas they art forcing sexual intercourse upon the entire populace. - Wm Shakespeare

 

#5 2014-03-15 12:02:47

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 10899

Re: Tropical ivy

one very key aspect to Tropical Ivy done right is lightweight cotton trousers worn a bit loose and baggy ... even the 8 oz. cotton twill chinos will work if they've been washed out enough and have some wear on them ....

Sta-Prest have too much poly to be really good in the tropics.

got to have air flow on your legs, can't go skin tight down here, tight trousers look especially wrong in the tropics and they are ill-advised because they are constricting, too hot, too clingy.

the old J. Press Madralyte shirts, which would become so soft after a few years, and some old weathered chinos, and the flips, camp mocs, Topsiders, canvas sneakers, all loose, clean, freshly laundered but not necessarily ironed and definitely not starched .... the hairline stripes and the pencil stripes in blue and white ......

Sometimes in the heavy heat the nice floppy tennis collar or point collar is a nice alternative to the buttondown collar as the neck area is a bit more open with the plain collar and you can catch more breeze than with the buttondown collar which stands higher and blocks the air flow a little .....

Another thing is leather belts ... when the temperatures get too high the leather belt can be a drag, leave you damp at the waist, and so a jute or hemp or ribbon or cotton canvas belt is crucial ....

of course Tropical Ivy shirts cannot be no-iron Teflon coated suffocators ... it doesn't matter if your cotton shirt becomes instantly wrinkled as long as it was clean when you put it on ....

Brooks Brothers short sleeved broadcloth Makers buttondowns in summer stripes were some of my faves .....

sunglasses: plastic nylon frames are a bit sweatier, thin wire framed Ray-Bans are cooler, but if you're getting into a salt-water situation like going out on the boat or going to the beach then the plastic frames are better as the metal frames don't do well in and around salt water or salt air.

and of course light colors are called for, washed out and faded whites, light blues, khakis ....

well-washed long-sleeved Ivy shirts in end-on-end or Madralyte or soft broadcloth with the sleeves rolled ........

Yuca wrote:

Did we ever get to see the Fort Lauderdale pic?

Yuca Mon, the pic came from Corbis, I thought I had saved it, I will look for it again, it's a good one  ....


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#6 2014-03-15 14:10:32

doghouse
Member
Posts: 5092

Re: Tropical ivy

Cotton all the way.


Hide thy infants, hide thy Lady, and hide thy husband, alas they art forcing sexual intercourse upon the entire populace. - Wm Shakespeare

 

#7 2014-03-15 16:52:42

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 10899

Re: Tropical ivy

/\   

http://www.whitworthfamily.org/images/Louisiana-King%20Cotton-425-01.jpg


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#8 2014-03-16 16:32:06

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 10899

Re: Tropical ivy

untucked if it's not too sloppy is good, "no belt" can work but watch the sag, socks are square but wearing laced leather dress shoes without socks is nasty ....

florals and alohas and colorful resort prints ... I personally go toned down these days but once upon a time I liked to wear a few wild prints that I had made up from some weird old bolts I bought at Chipp in the '80s ....

... you still need a couple around for parties and Hunter S. Thompsonesque moods ....

thong flip-flops with nylon ribbon straps ... must be nylon ribbon ... these can contribute to foot and maybe knee and back problems if worn too much or for too long a walk ......

flat-front shorts and longsleeved tees and flips or blucher mocs do it for me .... and of course the shades, got to have the good sunglasses .... always have a baseball cap or some other hat with you in the car .....

when we were kids we used to wear bathing suits under our shorts or our chinos so we'd always be ready to jump into the water ... . afterwards air-dry while having a slice of pizza and a sno-cone at the hole in the wall snack bar next to the surf shop and smell the surfboard wax wafting out the door ....


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#9 2014-03-17 01:28:15

bonnot
Member
Posts: 46

Re: Tropical ivy

we need more pictures in this thread, please!


life is best in idleness and comfort

 

#10 2014-03-18 13:15:49

Yuca
Member
Posts: 6888

Re: Tropical ivy

Thanks for all the info gents. Apparently (i.e. it's probably lies) there's 75% chance this summer in the UK will be the hottest ever (or something). If it does happen I have some sartorial inspiration.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#11 2014-03-18 16:06:23

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 10899

Re: Tropical ivy

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2176/2356207111_22208d576b_o.jpg

http://heritage.fsu.edu/photos/Photos1960s/images/10-1960s-scooter-e.jpg

http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/61/9f/db/619fdbf28ab6344f633475b5d7c4bce2.jpg

http://ww2.hdnux.com/photos/13/11/25/2921801/9/628x471.jpg

http://www.imagozone.com/var/albums/filme/Lady%20in%20Cement/Lady%20in%20Cement_14.jpg?m=1292957882

http://southernaristocracy.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/jfk-chuck-spalding-stas-dr-feelgood.jpg?w=882&h=920

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7pzea9_MriI/UWu3dtmpRcI/AAAAAAAAuMg/p-gSoBfXELQ/s802/JFK-At-Palm-Beach-International-Airport-West-Palm-Beach-Florida-April-17-1963.jpg

http://www.newyorksocialdiary.com/i/partypictures/04_08_13/image001-2.jpg

http://www.newyorksocialdiary.com/i/partypictures/04_08_13/Picture-7.jpg

http://eastofneimans.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/jacqueline-kennedy-onassis-jackie-kennedy-john-f-kennedy-jfk-oxford-barefoot-shorts-hyannisport-living-room.jpg

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e8/Richard_Bertram.jpg/220px-Richard_Bertram.jpg

http://images.sfae.com/product_images/preview/2563.jpg

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_6BI-crkwKGA/TPyWMS_43JI/AAAAAAAAFds/CqYhxYuRL0I/s1600/LadyInCement5.jpeg

http://images.sfae.com/product_images/preview/2551.jpg

http://www.floridagofishing.com/_images/articles/historical-snook-marco-island-1965.jpg

http://31.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lvtjogyzxh1qfet8co1_500.jpg

http://libraryfchistory.fullcoll.edu/director/p.php?a=IyYiLF9/amYqYHtlPzwtPTI6OjI5OzouNyo+NC4jKyAiPjQjJjs/NCY+LiY0&m=1347987194

http://dustfactoryvintage.com/fashionandrecycling/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/60s.jpg

http://dustfactoryvintage.com/fashionandrecycling/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/beauty-contest-60s.jpg

http://dustfactoryvintage.com/fashionandrecycling/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/60s-surfwear.jpg


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#12 2014-03-18 16:21:26

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: Tropical ivy

Good wrk

 

#13 2014-03-18 16:22:45

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: Tropical ivy

Wheres that youtube vid of all the college kids on a spring break on an island somewhere.  That had some great looks

 

#14 2014-03-18 17:20:36

12BarBlues
Mr. Ivy
Posts: 2477

Re: Tropical ivy

^On Youtube? smile


"To be honest I do like FNB...I always feel one of the thunderbirds when I say it."

 

#15 2014-03-18 20:08:24

Senorservo2.0
Member
Posts: 767

Re: Tropical ivy

Stan that was marvelous.

 

#16 2014-03-18 21:19:27

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15928

Re: Tropical ivy

Great pics Stan. Extra points for Carson!


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#17 2014-03-18 23:00:14

carpu65
Member
Posts: 1502

Re: Tropical ivy

doghouse wrote:

Cotton all the way.

And seersucker a lot of seersucker.
But why more cotton that linen in Ivy tradition?

 

#18 2014-03-19 00:26:56

bonnot
Member
Posts: 46

Re: Tropical ivy

thank you stan!


life is best in idleness and comfort

 

#19 2014-03-19 01:03:31

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 10899

Re: Tropical ivy

carpu65 wrote:

doghouse wrote:

Cotton all the way.

And seersucker a lot of seersucker.
But why more cotton that linen in Ivy tradition?

Linen was part of the Tropical Ivy spring break and summer scene ... J. Press sold Irish linen sport coats from the dawn of Ivy in 1950 and from 1955 or so on featured its trademarked "Crash Linen" flax/Dacron polyester blended sport coats and trousers, the appeal of which was its resistance to wrinkling.

But at the same time Press also sold seersucker, chambray, oxford and pincord cotton and cotton-blend Coolie Cloth sport coats and suits and trousers and shorts. 

Same with Brooks Brothers, just with different nomenclature.

Haspel was one of the biggest makers of warm weather Ivy clothing in the country and its line featured both cotton seersucker and Irish linen during the peak years of Ivy. 

....  Haspel Cruiser Jackets .... the warm weather jackets ... in lightweight cotton cord and seersucker and Irish linen ....

As Haspel noted in the late '40s: More and more of the best groomed men are realizing how smart these jackets look with odd slacks.  The perfect jacket for Southern wear.

recommended for Nassau, Bermuda, Palm Beach, Jamaica, Barbados, Virgin Isles ......

One of the main, long-defunct Ivy campus haberdashers advertised more than 60 years ago to the day:

  "Prepare now for spring vacation.  Our expertly designed Sportswear has that carefree air of leisure, freedom and fun.  Bermuda shorts expressly created to make your vacation a    sunny success.  Hawaiian swim trunks in bright patterned tropical prints.  Superbly tailored Sport Shirts in resort shades and nice detailing."

Jantzen offered walking shorts, play shorts, swim trunks, Islander shirts, sport shirts and t-shirts from the early '50s on .....

spring break and summer clothes were offered in butcher linen, cool seersucker, tropical worsteds, madras, batistes, voiles ....

J. Press carried all the essentials for Beach and Southern vacation wear more than 60 years ago:

  "Handwoven Indian Cotton Madras Sport shirts and bathing suits.  Faded Denim Slacks, walking shorts, and bathing shorts.  Tartan Plaid bathing trunks and sport shirts.  Infinitely varied assortments of knitted cotton lisle sport shirts ... paisley printed shirts ... seersucker swim trunks ... walking shorts in linen, sailcloth and flannel."


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#20 2014-03-19 01:10:49

4F Hepcat
THE Cat
Posts: 14333

Re: Tropical ivy

stanshall wrote:

sunglasses: plastic nylon frames are a bit sweatier, thin wire framed Ray-Bans are cooler, but if you're getting into a salt-water situation like going out on the boat or going to the beach then the plastic frames are better as the metal frames don't do well in and around salt water or salt air.

This is good advice as plastic frames, especially with clip-ons will be sliding down your nose and falling off with the sweat and humidity. A pair of wire frames will make all the difference, a significant difference. Shuron Ronstrongs with clip-on shades are ideal when the heat is on.

The other factor is that you might have an idea of getting off the plane all crisp and plantation owner-like in your off-white cotton suit, but if you're not use to the heat, the suit won't save you and you will have been better in a short sleeve shirt. Also dressing for the occasion, outside of some select 5 star hotel resorts, no one will be hanging around the hotel bar in a suit or jacket, unless you bump into Allan Whicker in his blazer. Don't over dress.


Vibe-Rations in Spectra-Sonic-Sound

 

#21 2014-03-19 03:25:27

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 3255

Re: Tropical ivy

4F Hepcat wrote:

stanshall wrote:

sunglasses: plastic nylon frames are a bit sweatier, thin wire framed Ray-Bans are cooler, but if you're getting into a salt-water situation like going out on the boat or going to the beach then the plastic frames are better as the metal frames don't do well in and around salt water or salt air.

This is good advice as plastic frames, especially with clip-ons will be sliding down your nose and falling off with the sweat and humidity. A pair of wire frames will make all the difference, a significant difference. Shuron Ronstrongs with clip-on shades are ideal when the heat is on.

The other factor is that you might have an idea of getting off the plane all crisp and plantation owner-like in your off-white cotton suit, but if you're not use to the heat, the suit won't save you and you will have been better in a short sleeve shirt. Also dressing for the occasion, outside of some select 5 star hotel resorts, no one will be hanging around the hotel bar in a suit or jacket, unless you bump into Allan Whicker in his blazer. Don't over dress.

+1. Other than that: Great post, the tropical stuff is something I really admire (as summer in Vienna can get really hot)...

One note: As cool as Felix Leiter in "Dr. No" looks, he isn't dressed in Ivy League. The suit has front darts, roped sleeveheads, double vents and other "non-Ivy" details. It looks great, but my favourite "tropical suit" would be either a worsted tropical wool BB or a wash'n wear BB #1 suit... I love tropical straw hats, especially Trilbys and pork pies. I have a Stetson that looks great. I need something like this because of a very light-haired part on my head - I get sunburnt there if I don't wear anything wink

P.S.: The Felix Leiter in "Goldfinger is purest Ivy League... with another great "tropical" item: a seersucker hat!

Last edited by Leer R. (2014-03-19 03:29:16)


http://maennergarderobe.blogspot.co.at

BB Makers shirts: 15.5/33, BB #1, 2 or 4 suits: 38R

 

#22 2014-03-19 05:32:27

Tomiskinky
Member
Posts: 3036

Re: Tropical ivy

I really fancy a batik jacket for the summer, a bit of an alternative to the madras - I see H&J have one in stock, but I also saw the same one in the same size on Etsy. Shame it's way to big for me, as think this with a tropical weight truoser would look the nuts.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/151078008/ … avs_view_1


Clothes make the man - naked people have little or no influence on society! M.Twain

 

#23 2014-03-19 08:54:50

carpu65
Member
Posts: 1502

Re: Tropical ivy

Exacltly wht is a "crash" cloth?
A aired cloth like Airtex?

 

#24 2014-03-19 08:58:40

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 10899

Re: Tropical ivy

http://thesuitsofjamesbond.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Jack-Lord-Felix-Leiter-3.jpg


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#25 2014-03-19 09:33:10

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 10899

Re: Tropical ivy

4F Hepcat wrote:

stanshall wrote:

sunglasses: plastic nylon frames are a bit sweatier, thin wire framed Ray-Bans are cooler, but if you're getting into a salt-water situation like going out on the boat or going to the beach then the plastic frames are better as the metal frames don't do well in and around salt water or salt air.

This is good advice as plastic frames, especially with clip-ons will be sliding down your nose and falling off with the sweat and humidity. A pair of wire frames will make all the difference, a significant difference. Shuron Ronstrongs with clip-on shades are ideal when the heat is on.

The other factor is that you might have an idea of getting off the plane all crisp and plantation owner-like in your off-white cotton suit, but if you're not use to the heat, the suit won't save you and you will have been better in a short sleeve shirt. Also dressing for the occasion, outside of some select 5 star hotel resorts, no one will be hanging around the hotel bar in a suit or jacket, unless you bump into Allan Whicker in his blazer. Don't over dress.

Unless you're actually going to court the suit is not strictly necessary in the tropics but even in the summer you'll want a light sweater for the air conditioning blasting in your office.

The humidity and heat of the real tropics will put paid to genteel notions of white-suited plantation elegance the second you step off the plane and into the blast furnace.


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

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