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#126 2015-11-18 03:08:14

Tomiskinky
Member
Posts: 3241

Re: Groundhog Madras

I have to say, the post wash colour do look sweet but not sure I have the money right now to buy one. Measurements seem ok, though 17" on the shoulders seems a bit small (i'm 17.75) to me and the next size up would be huge!

I made that mistake with the kamakura, and they are only $79 so not a big hit add onto that duty and it could get expensive for a shirt no-one on here has tried. So unless a US forum member tries one out - I would say no.

And yes, shut up about Vampire Weekend - bloody awful.

 

#127 2015-11-18 03:19:44

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8544

Re: Groundhog Madras


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#128 2015-11-18 10:46:55

aucociscokid2
Member
Posts: 164

Re: Groundhog Madras

@ Yuca: There are pictures of our looms if you scroll up to post #50 and a description of the dyeing and weaving process at post #118. N.B. According to our master dyer who was active in the 1960s and authoritative Handcrafts and Handlooms Export Corporation of India (HHEC), vegetable dyes were NOT contrary to myth used in the 1960s. Non-azo free direct dyes were. Vegetable dyes will only "bleed" 2x-3x, whereas direct ones will "bleed" forever. Non-azo free dyes are environmentally harmful, so we used azo-free ones.

@Bop: Dave Mercer is having an extremely difficult time pattern matching. Whereas, New England Shirt has is down. Purists? Charlie Davidson has been selling New England Shirt Company shirts exclusively for several years now, and is selling ours. How much more "pure" do you want? Dave Hodgkins/David Wood Clothiers/Portland, ME sold out of his 40 in 24 hrs. by-word-mouth alone and has ordered 40 more. 80 shirts is more shirts than he sells all season. They're VERY popular. BIG demand for them. What can tell you? + Ivy will ALWAYS be around.

@ Tomiskinky: 40 people bought them at $175 from David Wood/Dave Hodgkins. No returns. We must be doing something right! Ask Dave Hodgkins: + 1 207-773-3906. style@davidwood.com.

@Bop and Yuca: Any sort of shirt you want can be made. If we have 20 orders. You want a classic fit one? We can do that. If 20 of you guys say that's what you want, it'll be offered on Styleforum.

I'm amenable to doing a FNB Styleforum GMTO. Make madras shirts exactly the way FNB members want them. That includes patterns. IF 20 members are willing to commit.

Last edited by aucociscokid2 (2015-11-18 11:42:47)

 

#129 2015-11-18 11:22:14

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: Groundhog Madras

Why are you doing the styleforum offer and doing price reductions if theyve sold out elsewhere? Im a bit confused, why cant I just buy a shirt when the people that have bought your fabric restock?

Last edited by Bop (2015-11-18 11:23:17)

 

#130 2015-11-18 11:32:19

Tomiskinky
Member
Posts: 3241

Re: Groundhog Madras

 

#131 2015-11-18 12:03:55

aucociscokid2
Member
Posts: 164

Re: Groundhog Madras

Hey, Bop! Are you actually going to buy a shirt? You want to spend $175, buy them from David Hodgkins/David Wood. You want to spend $125? Buy them on Styleforum.

100 yards - for the 100 time - need to be dyed/woven of a particular pattern. The financing for the dyeing/weaving is provided by the pre-sales on Styleforum. It's how Taylor Stitch, for instance, conducts their pre-sales. One price for the pre-sales. Another - higher one - afterwards. It's a low-risk way of financing.

If I sell 40 shirts on Styleforum, then there is none left to sell to other manufacturers/retailers. If I don't sell 20 shirts, then no fabric is produced.

Selling on the Internet differs from "brick-and-mortar" in that buying on the Internet is mostly an impulse buy. $125 is a price at which I believe I can sell on it.

Last edited by aucociscokid2 (2015-11-18 12:11:17)

 

#132 2015-11-18 12:28:28

Jeff Reed
Member
From: Brooklyn, New York
Posts: 991

Re: Groundhog Madras

I'm so confused that I am just going to buy a shirt.

 

#133 2015-11-18 12:32:00

Tomiskinky
Member
Posts: 3241

Re: Groundhog Madras

Like it Jeff - look forward to the review.

 

#134 2015-11-18 12:33:58

aucociscokid2
Member
Posts: 164

Re: Groundhog Madras

@Tomiskinky. You're right. The correct yoke measurement for a "Small" is 18". The others are correct. I've made the changes on Styleforum. Thanks for pointing it out. My apologies.

Last edited by aucociscokid2 (2015-11-18 12:36:46)

 

#135 2015-11-18 12:47:15

aucociscokid2
Member
Posts: 164

Re: Groundhog Madras

Thanks, Jeff Reed.

This is David Hodgkins'/David Woods' review which is an easy to understand summary. He's old enough to be able to remember what they were and has 40+ years in the business.

1. They're the first bleeding madras shirts for sale in over 40 years.
2. They're comfortable with a "silky" hand.
3. They're the "Real McCoy."

We received the initial shipment of yardage in July. By August we were offering the first bleeding madras shirt for sale in over four decades. I am old enough to remember the character and comfort of this shirt (a silky hand), and I felt we had the “Real McCoy”.

Last edited by aucociscokid2 (2015-11-18 13:02:55)

 

#136 2015-11-18 13:13:34

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8544

Re: Groundhog Madras


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#137 2015-11-18 13:14:24

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: Groundhog Madras

With the current offering no, if the shirts are anything to go by on the New England website, I don't like the contemporary fit or button placement, but thats just personal preference. I think I would spend a bit more and wait to see what Mercer have to offer.

 

#138 2015-11-18 13:38:58

aucociscokid2
Member
Posts: 164

Re: Groundhog Madras

 

#139 2015-11-18 13:46:29

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: Groundhog Madras

Ok, but I still dont understand why you're doing a price reduction if your so adamant Dave has demand for them? Aren't you selling yourself short? Id also be slightly concerned that Mr Mercer can't pattern match your fabric. Is there a chance that the repeat means there is greater waste than normal?

Last edited by Bop (2015-11-18 13:48:43)

 

#140 2015-11-18 13:52:37

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: Groundhog Madras

 

#141 2015-11-18 14:01:17

aucociscokid2
Member
Posts: 164

Re: Groundhog Madras

Dave Hodgkins can't "front" the money to produce 100 yards. No manufacturer/retailer can. He can't sell what he can't get. I sell 20 shirts. That gets the 100 yards dyed/woven. That's 50 yards. Then, Dave takes the remainder, i.e. 50 yards. If I sell 40 shirts, then Dave doesn't get any. Nobody was buying on Styleforum at $175. $125 provides the financing. If you have a better way of financing it: I'm all ears.

This is exactly the way Taylor Stitch finances their products. They offer a 20%+ discount below retail for pre-orders. We're offering a 30% discount for pre-sales. (Typically, what happens is a manufacturer/retailer will add the cost of financing to the retail price, which generally constitutes 20%-30% of the wholesale retail price.)

https://www.taylorstitch.com/pages/crowdfunding-workshop

Madras also is strictly not an Ivy League item, either. It's popularity transcends all clothing styles. It been produced for over 300 years and, therefore, pre-dates even the Ivy League itself let alone that style of dressing.  In the day, entire families wore "bleeding" madras everything to on Sunday. "Bleeding" madras dinner jackets were popular in Palm Beach, NY, and Newport, RI. Women of all ages wore "bleeding" madras shirtwaists, shifts, sundresses, skirts, shorts, slacks, shoes, bathing suits, belts, scarves and carried "bleeding" madras purses.

Judging from what was shown at the various the fashion weeks worldwide in the spring, it's going to be very big for Spring-Summer, 2016, too. For both men and women.

It's popular and always in good taste and popular.

Last edited by aucociscokid2 (2015-11-18 14:28:12)

 

#142 2015-11-18 15:32:56

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: Groundhog Madras

Last edited by Bop (2015-11-18 15:34:41)

 

#143 2015-11-18 15:57:35

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: Groundhog Madras

I would like to see this come to fruition on a shirt Id like to buy but it seems I will have to wait in order to see if you can secure a different maker to guarantee your costs or you have some left over and it goes to Mercer...youve got the right fabric on the wrong shirt IMO

 

#144 2015-11-18 16:20:37

aucociscokid2
Member
Posts: 164

Re: Groundhog Madras

I just got off the phone with Bob Kidder of the New England Shirt Co. The plackets on ours are folded and then sewn. We've selected the Borrelli collar for ours over the Brooks Bros., which has a roll. See the link.

http://www.sierratradingpost.com/new-england-shirt-company-borelli-check-shirt-long-sleeve-for-men~p~6800d/


We did this after consultation with Charlie Davidson of the Andover Shop. Charlie sells only Borelli collars now, which he and his customers prefer. It is in his estimation the better choice.

The beauty part is: The shirts haven't been made yet. No details are in stone. If you and other FNB members want Brooks Bros. collars then we'll do Brooks Bros. collars. I want to provide our customers with exactly what they want and can accommodate most requests.

So, FNB members should tell me exactly what you guys require as far as collars; button placement; classic or trim fit; what measurements for chest, waist, yoke, etc. Tell me what boxes you need ticked. I'll bet most can be.

Whatever the consensus is on both FNB and Styleforum that's what I'll make. OK? Does that work for you guys?

All you guys should get back to me ASAP. I'll report what the consensus is, which ideally will stimulate  orders.

Last edited by aucociscokid2 (2015-11-18 16:26:06)

 

#145 2015-11-18 16:39:13

aucociscokid2
Member
Posts: 164

Re: Groundhog Madras

Bop: My costs are guaranteed no matter who the maker is. And mostly the same no matter which. What I can't do is get one to buy 100 yards of fabric, because they don't have the money. The economy at least here in the US has recovered as far as Wall St. is concerned. But, not as far as Main St. As mentioned, you guys can suggest as many details as you wish, including patterns. New England Shirt can produce them. Look at their reviews. The downside of Mercer is that he has difficulty matching the patterns. We get slammed with orders, he may not be able to produce them either because he has a much smaller production capacity than NE Shirt. It requires 50 days for us to dye/weave the fabric. (45 days for the dyeing/weaving + 5 days to set up the looms.) So, just on weaving we're talking is into 1Q 2016. NE Shirt can give me 3 weeks turn around on the  shirts, so that's almost March. Mercer may not be able to have them ready for delivery until into the summer. At this point, he can't promise that. As I said, nothing is written in stone as far as details are concerned. You tell me what you want. I'll tell you what I need to do to make this a business, which is how you - after all - get the shirts. Let's see what we can do working together. OK?

Last edited by aucociscokid2 (2015-11-18 16:41:33)

 

#146 2015-11-18 19:07:11

Jeff Reed
Member
From: Brooklyn, New York
Posts: 991

Re: Groundhog Madras

 

#147 2015-11-18 21:14:53

aucociscokid2
Member
Posts: 164

Re: Groundhog Madras

First of all thanks for your order. Big mistake going into the whys and wherefores, etc. Here's the 3 simple options:

1. Buy an alpha-sized shirt New England Shirt Co. shirt on the Styleforum GMTO for $125. If FNB members want to suggest collars, etc., I'll produce them in accordance with the consensus.
2. Buy the madras as piece goods on while they last on Etsy. There's enough for about 20 shirts of all the patterns, except the Styleforum GMTO one. Have them made up any way you like, by whomever you like. When they go, they'll be retired.
3. Buy new patterns as piece goods on Styleforum as a GMTO, with a 50 yard minimum for any given one.

There. That's it. That's the paradigm. Any need for further comment?

Last edited by aucociscokid2 (2015-11-18 21:20:55)

 

#148 2015-11-18 21:59:59

The Absintheist
Member
Posts: 189

Re: Groundhog Madras

All this marketing talk has finally got me hooked. I think I'll buy a groundhog.

 

#149 2015-11-18 22:57:53

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: Groundhog Madras

Last edited by Bop (2015-11-18 22:58:42)

 

#150 2015-11-18 23:19:58

aucociscokid2
Member
Posts: 164

Re: Groundhog Madras

I am selling to any one who wants it. I can't afford to weave 100 yards on spec. Each manufacturer/retailer wants their on proprietary patterns. Wouldn't you? So, I weave 100 yards. A customer only wants 20. What am I supposed to do with the remainder?

As a retail customer, these are your 2 options, Bop.


1. Buy an alpha-sized shirt New England Shirt Co. shirt on the Styleforum GMTO for $125. Tell me if you want a Borelli or BB collar. I'll make whatever is the consensus. Return it if you don't like it.
2. Buy the madras as piece goods while they last on Etsy. There's enough for about 20 shirts of all the patterns, except the Styleforum GMTO one. Have them made up any way you like, by whomever you like.

It's a SHIRT for cryin' out loud!

That's it. That covers it. You ought to be able to get a shirt to your liking out of one of the two. Wear it in good health.

Last edited by aucociscokid2 (2015-11-18 23:32:23)

 

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