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#1 2006-03-10 01:33:36

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

What exactly can a "tailor" or alterations person do with an RTW suit?

I know some of you only go the bespoke route.  I've done bespoke in England and HK.  And I've done MTM.
But often I'll do RTW, esp. for tweed coats or a blazer.  At any rate, what are the reasonable things a tailor can
do to insure that a jacket (or trousers for that matter) fits well?  Obviously, sleeves, shorten collar, take in here or there.

I seem to fit the 42 off the rack with just a tweak here and there, but I was hoping that someone would be so kind
as to go into detail the various adjustments that can be reasonably (i.e. in fit and cost) be made to an RTW suit (esp.
jacket), before it's necessary for one to go either to MTM or bespoke.

I've got a few tweeds that've been handed down to me that I might take in to have sleeves altered.  Just want to know what else
I should reasonably expect.

By the way, I understand that for RTW jackets, that if the jacket doesn't fit well on the shoulders and somewhat around the neck
that one has little hope of really achieving a good fit via alterations without tearing the whole jacket apart and doing a major
realteration.

Thoughts?


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#2 2006-03-20 21:21:58

jsprowls9
Member
From: Denver, CO
Posts: 250

Re: What exactly can a "tailor" or alterations person do with an RTW suit?

While I agree that a skilled tailor can do a great deal to improve the fit of an off-the-peg garment, there are some limitations. Darren posted an article which explains inlays and the positioning within a bespoke garment. Bespoke tailors add inlay to anticipate alterations in the future. Quite frequently (and, I'm sure Darren can attest to this) well-made garments pass from father to son, easily as their posture and frame are similar.

RTW, on the other hand, is all about economy of cloth and ease of construction. RTW does not allow for inlays, which limit the amount of alteration. In fact, I have sometimes seen seam allowances of 3/8" (1 cm) with no inlay at all. Of the few RTW garments I own, this narrow a seam allowance becomes distorted during laundering. My father always wore his clothes until they wore out . Being that RTW (at least those in my closet) never seem to survive more than a couple years, the likelhood of inheriting my father's RTW is slim.

I would venture to guess that if you fit a 42R RTW w/ some minor tweaking, your frame is in the standard size 'run'. The adjustments you probably have made are lifting/lowering of hem; and correcting for sway of back or thrust of neck (maybe some collar narrowing). I doubt your alterations are more than a 1/4" in any of those areas. If this is the case, my opinion is that you have infinitely more clothing options available to you than some of us.

 

#3 2006-03-22 03:17:49

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: What exactly can a "tailor" or alterations person do with an RTW suit?

Thanks for the tips, JS. Grayson's in a more "rarified" sartorial world than me, though I've had a occasion to bespeak some togs in the past and appreciate his contributions to this thread too.   I have noticed on RTW that the side seams of many of my RTW Southwicks, for example, have what appears to be about one inch on either side seam from the bottom to the top.   The same for the back seam.  So that it would seem, as it were, that one has _some_ room to play with here.  As for the durability of RTW -- I've got some quite old Brooks tweeds and a few flannel suits from them too that have endured more than a generation.  Also some nice RTW overcoats that are going on 60-70 years.  Though in these cases of overcoating, flannel and tweed, it might be the fabric that withstands the test of time more than the fact that they are RTW or bespoke, etc.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#4 2006-03-22 07:18:32

dartagnan
New member
Posts: 2

Re: What exactly can a "tailor" or alterations person do with an RTW suit?

Hey Horace.  This moron says hello.  Interesting thread.  This looks to cover your old "why machine made items are superior" ground again.  I always thought that was pretty good.  What's the deal with the Malindum?

Last edited by dartagnan (2006-03-22 07:34:50)

 

#5 2006-03-24 05:45:37

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: What exactly can a "tailor" or alterations person do with an RTW suit?

Last edited by Horace (2006-03-24 05:47:45)


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 
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