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#1 2014-10-26 16:24:55

Jivy
Member
From: North Carolina, USA
Posts: 165

Cool Article

Hey guys, I'm new here. I've just recently gotten very interested in Ivy League style clothing from the 50's and 60's and found this fantastic forum. Anyways, I just found this cool article. Might not be 100% Ivy League related, but I thought I'd share anyways.

http://www.artofmanliness.com/2014/09/03/back-to-college-wardrobe-from-1948/

 

#2 2014-10-26 16:47:28

Tommy
Member
Posts: 1753

Re: Cool Article

A lot carried on being worn at least another 10 years or more such as the penny loafers,  but in my quick scan I didn't see any 3/2 roll amongst other things.  That said I tend to get more interested in the 60s stuff.

 

#3 2014-10-26 16:53:32

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: Cool Article

Welcome Jivy. Great pictures.  And I really like the regional breakdown.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#4 2014-10-26 20:21:08

Jdemy
Member
Posts: 696

Re: Cool Article

Nice article-- thanks and welcome!

 

#5 2014-10-27 00:32:31

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: Cool Article

 

#6 2014-10-27 00:45:12

4F Hepcat
THE Cat
Posts: 14333

Re: Cool Article

A great year for argyle socks!


Vibe-Rations in Spectra-Sonic-Sound

 

#7 2014-10-27 03:23:32

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8543

Re: Cool Article

Last edited by Yuca (2014-10-27 03:23:54)


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#8 2014-10-27 03:38:17

Acton_Baby
Member
From: West London
Posts: 3848

Re: Cool Article

From the same source

http://www.artofmanliness.com/2010/09/16/man-blazer-jacket/

Interesting that the 'american blazer' is defined by the author as a two button but the most of the photos feature 3/2 roll examples.


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#9 2014-10-27 03:42:50

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8543

Re: Cool Article

The writer of the blazer article appears to be pretty clueless. Probably not a disadvantage in this day and age.

Last edited by Yuca (2014-10-27 10:01:18)


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#10 2014-10-27 03:45:44

Acton_Baby
Member
From: West London
Posts: 3848

Re: Cool Article

^ hahaha


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#11 2014-10-27 05:01:34

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: Cool Article

Some of the pictures would definitely be more at home over on the Hat Lounge.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#12 2014-10-27 20:44:48

Jivy
Member
From: North Carolina, USA
Posts: 165

Re: Cool Article

Yeah, most of those pictures aren't what I think of when imagining typical "Ivy style" clothing, but still a cool article I think. Clothing seems to be much more formal before the 50's than generally any other time in history. It's pretty awesome. I've always wondered if it would ever be "normal" to wear suits and sport coats with ties for most occasions on a daily basis again. Seems doubtful though. One can only dream.

 

#13 2014-10-27 21:16:32

Sidewinder
Member
Posts: 610

Re: Cool Article

 

#14 2014-10-28 00:43:32

4F Hepcat
THE Cat
Posts: 14333

Re: Cool Article


Vibe-Rations in Spectra-Sonic-Sound

 

#15 2014-10-28 06:05:42

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: The Lost County of Middlesex
Posts: 7959

Re: Cool Article


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

Achievements: banned from the Ivy Style FB Group

 

#16 2014-10-28 06:19:08

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: The Lost County of Middlesex
Posts: 7959

Re: Cool Article


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

Achievements: banned from the Ivy Style FB Group

 

#17 2014-10-28 06:50:00

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: Cool Article

1947-54 is and interesting time, everything is kind of there but not quite right because of the fashion for a fuller cut

 

#18 2014-10-28 07:17:22

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: Cool Article


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#19 2014-10-28 10:26:58

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8543

Re: Cool Article

Last edited by Yuca (2014-10-28 10:29:33)


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#20 2014-10-28 10:33:07

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: Cool Article

Full cut, yet clean lines and drape.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#21 2014-10-28 10:36:16

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8543

Re: Cool Article

Once cuffs went out of favour with the majority of ivy wearers (early 60s?), the style had become too extreme. (Although I think the more conservative makers continued with cuffs throughout the 60s - or maybe it was always up to the customer?)


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#22 2014-10-28 10:38:20

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8543

Re: Cool Article

Lapel and trouser width, button stance and other details on late 40s/early 50s sack suits were often perfect, although shoulders could be a little too wide.

Last edited by Yuca (2014-10-28 10:39:08)


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#23 2014-10-28 17:46:45

Jivy
Member
From: North Carolina, USA
Posts: 165

Re: Cool Article

Also, my favorite article about the Ivy League wardrobe...

...There was the Ivy League shop. Called “Ivy League” or "campus" shop because the style had originated, evolved, and took it’s strength from the prestigious Eastern Establishment universities. After World War II young men of growing middle class means attended these institutions of higher learning in droves on the G.I. Bill of economic assistance. What they found was that they could construct a basic campus wardrobe without a great deal of money and effort. There was high serviceability and low maintenance to the college wardrobe of the day.
The basic items were the oxford cloth buttondown shirt and cotton twill khaki trousers. Six shirts, three white and three blue, and two or three pair of khakis would do the job. In cooler weather, a Shetland crewneck sweater in any color was added. A pair of brown penny loafers and white tennis sneakers (possibly a pair of white or tan buckskin oxfords) constituted the acceptable range of footwear.
For outerwear, a cotton gabardine balmacaan raincoat (always tan), and a stout duffel coat (in tan or navy) were all that were needed, although many men also had a cotton gab golf jacket, also in tan. Mountain climbing parkas, safari jackets, trout fishing coats, barn coats, and equestrian slickers were all thought of as exotic sportswear.
Everyone had a tweed sports jacket (Harris or Shetland) and/or a navy single-breasted blazer for semi-dress, and a gray flannel suit for dress. Summer semi-formality was assured with a seersucker or tan poplin suit; some had madras sports jackets; for the more formal occasions a dark Grey or navy tropical worsted suit. A half-dozen ties (regimentals, foulards, or dots), and the necessary complement of underwear, socks, pajamas, and handkerchiefs filled out the basics.
Cut, fit, and quality were what was important. If it was all properly fitted, of the acceptable cut, and made well, these items would do a young man proud, no matter where he was going, or what the occasion, from a faculty tea to a classy dance.
And it wasn't a matter of being simply less sophisticated either. There were intricacies of cut and quality to these basic garments that belied their straight-forwardness. Good jackets, for example, were always three-button and natural-shouldered, softly constructed in the chest and cut on the easy side. Lapels extended about a third of the way to the shoulder line, and aficionados were quick to note the hook vent in the rear. Trousers were also cut easy, just this side of baggy. Everything, needless to say, shouldn't look too new. Quality used to imply longevity in those days. Raincoats, khakis, shoes, and tweeds were all expected to be slightly scuffed and rumpled. A soft patina of age was desirable, and total effect should be rather a studied nonchalance. An old money sprezzatura was the style.
Those dozen garments or so weren't the be-all and end-all, of course. There were myriad other attractions for the dandies amongst us. Silk knit ties (plain black or navy was best, with square-cut ends) and paisley pocket squares, odd flannel trousers, broadcloth tab-collar shirts, cordovan brogues and scotchgrain wingtips, navy worsted pinstripes with vests, white duck trousers for summer, and lambswool turtlenecks for winter. The sophisticated young man may have splurged for a camelhair polo coat. Everyone seemed to have colorfully striped surcingle belts with brass horseshoe-shaped buckles. And the brightest Argyle socks.
For most, the subtleties of double-breasted jackets and grenadine neckwear, of suede town shoes, enameled cuff links, covert cloth chesterfields, and cashmere cabled hosiery were not imaginable. But then neither were exterior logos, Italian designers, or microfibers.
There also didn't seem to be the questions of what to wear when. We certainly knew when the occasion called for a tie, and gym clothes were confined to the gym.
It was, as I say, a simpler time.

Does anyone know any other good articles about wardrobes?

Edit: source http://www.thesartorialist.com/photos/a-curmudgeon%E2%80%99s-lament/

Last edited by Jivy (2014-10-28 22:55:07)

 

#24 2014-10-28 18:17:07

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: Cool Article

The filmnoirbuff.com homepage offers a wealth of good stuff.  There are also some good articles in our The Wardrobe section.

Ivy-style.com is a good start for things with an ivy and preppie slant.

And it's a good idea to cite your article sources.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#25 2014-10-28 22:57:59

Jivy
Member
From: North Carolina, USA
Posts: 165

Re: Cool Article

Thank you, and I just realized I forgot to add the link to that article. Just updated it. I will check those places out.

 

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