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#126 2015-05-29 11:57:42

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: London Ivy is all that counts in the UK !!!!! (And, also, ?????? )

ha!


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#127 2015-05-29 12:11:30

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: London Ivy is all that counts in the UK !!!!! (And, also, ?????? )

/\  yeah that guy Morris Widder advertised in the paper for years and in fact there's an article somewhere in which an old Ivy salesman in Cambridge at the end of the '60s I think lamented the decline of Ivy and mentioned that the students used to flog their coats to raise cash all the time, thereby necessitating purchases of new coats later ...

I posted a link to it before ...... Keezer in Cambridge was just a later version of rag merchants .....

by the way the buyers of used clothes in New Haven were there since at least the 1880s, selling the students' old clothes to the poor, and probably to some students as well.

there was a place on Crown Street north of Louis Lunch that had a mound of old tweeds, great stuff in there too by the way, you all would have liked to get your hands on it for sure, all the art students knew about it and that's why they had the old Ivy look going even when a lot of the undergrads had a more baggy Ivy, aka prep, style.

but seriously, I wish I could take you guys to the Yale Club, we could look through all the yearbooks from way back and you could see how it all unfolded ....

I have done it a time or two, mainly to see pics of myself heh heh!


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#128 2015-05-29 12:11:45

formby1
Member
From: Hauteur Extraordinaire
Posts: 1039

Re: London Ivy is all that counts in the UK !!!!! (And, also, ?????? )


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#129 2015-05-29 12:17:22

formby1
Member
From: Hauteur Extraordinaire
Posts: 1039

Re: London Ivy is all that counts in the UK !!!!! (And, also, ?????? )


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#130 2015-05-29 12:17:42

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: London Ivy is all that counts in the UK !!!!! (And, also, ?????? )

Well here comes stan with the know how...but are we going to suggest the tail wagged the dog..we know who these clothes were being bought by and for what..the Vanity Fair piece on the soft collar becoming the new way to go with a step away from stiff and starched collars is a good indication of the softer style becoming popular due to the tennis influence..and the buck..and the duck trousers..clearly they picked up on the trend

 

#131 2015-05-29 12:20:10

formby1
Member
From: Hauteur Extraordinaire
Posts: 1039

Re: London Ivy is all that counts in the UK !!!!! (And, also, ?????? )


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#132 2015-05-30 05:33:19

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: London Ivy is all that counts in the UK !!!!! (And, also, ?????? )

Well done formby you find a used clothes seller and thats it you uncovered the origin of Ivy...well done.. it was all a ruse to get better dressed proletarians! Like I said its clear, the blueprint is there in those 1910-20s pictures you wont see it anywhere else...I cant find anything to the details and silhouettes whether from the UK or anywhere else ... Chicago and over to e Eastcoast...is the only place you can fin the look at this time, when or if you can actually be bothered to have a look for yourself you might get some idea...at the moment you've added a footnote that people buy used clothes.. like I said, welldone what a revelation.

 

#133 2015-05-30 05:35:16

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: London Ivy is all that counts in the UK !!!!! (And, also, ?????? )

Last edited by Bop (2015-05-30 05:45:36)

 

#134 2015-05-30 06:24:38

formby1
Member
From: Hauteur Extraordinaire
Posts: 1039

Re: London Ivy is all that counts in the UK !!!!! (And, also, ?????? )


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#135 2015-05-30 08:15:14

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: London Ivy is all that counts in the UK !!!!! (And, also, ?????? )

/\  I've thought about the trunk shows ... even if students themselves actually went to the shows (rather than their mothers) that would just confirm the fact that students were wearing Ivy and that the sellers knew what their market was made of, not that people outside the school loop were picking up on the style, which they did of course, but not through trunk shows at prep schools, country clubs or the Taft Hotel, where Brooks called on the Yalies for years.  One way of flogging the wares maybe.

People who picked up on the style outside of the school sphere acquired the stuff at Brooks itself in New York, Boston and Chicago, or at their local shops when they started carrying clothes by national manufacturers that were similar to those sold at Brooks and Press.  If people were completely unaware of campus styles somehow then they might have seen Ivy clothes on television, or in an ad in a magazine, or being worn on the street (by a college student?  the tautologies ....)

re the loyal customers, that implies they already knew about the clothes and the sellers ......

the traveling exhibitions at prep schools demonstrate that the sellers knew who their market was, or at least that students comprised a significant share of it, but the shows at prominent hotels are a bit harder to pin down.

In any event, these kinds of trunk shows were put on in rooms at the best hotels in town, where the local debutante balls and cotillions were held, and which would have been familiar to the local nobs, who were the ones sending their children off to prep school and private colleges in the Northeast.   

The trunk shows continue to this day and are still held at prep schools, as well as country clubs and churches, though usually not at big-city hotels anymore, and the people who sponsor them are the students' mothers' auxiliary clubs.

Last edited by stanshall (2015-05-30 17:05:50)


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#136 2015-05-30 08:20:31

4F Hepcat
THE Cat
Posts: 14333

Re: London Ivy is all that counts in the UK !!!!! (And, also, ?????? )

I suppose Ivy is the last style that emanated from the top and worked down, what followed was the reverse. And it shows!


Vibe-Rations in Spectra-Sonic-Sound

 

#137 2015-05-30 12:41:50

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: London Ivy is all that counts in the UK !!!!! (And, also, ?????? )

/\  but the students also bought and wore army-navy surplus khakis, lots of rugged hunting, fishing and camping gear, and sweatshirts and baseball caps throughout the twentieth century including the boom years, although it took a couple of decades before the jeans, fatigues, and workwear of Radical Chic really started to take over.

But Holden Caulfield did wear a red wool hunting cap.


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#138 2015-05-31 00:34:12

4F Hepcat
THE Cat
Posts: 14333

Re: London Ivy is all that counts in the UK !!!!! (And, also, ?????? )

Of course, yes, the GI bill influence with khakis. A great contribution to the look.


Vibe-Rations in Spectra-Sonic-Sound

 

#139 2015-05-31 00:48:17

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: London Ivy is all that counts in the UK !!!!! (And, also, ?????? )

I guess the challenge to anyone disputing what Im saying is find me examples of the look as almost near to completion as it in the tennis photos of the 1910/20s. They're nowhere and like Stan said it took a good few years from the 1870/80s to merge into that look through the sporting heritage of the colleges. I know there are images of the English football team members in button down shirts from 1900 and you can see some soft shoulder jackets from earlier. But nothing begins to look like Ivy, ie the button down shirts, the highwaisted tapered, highwater duck pants, and bucks/plimsolls as those guys Ive discussed. Yes Brooks had been in the game for nearly a 100 uears before but the look as it is..emerged during the early 1900s perfected by the 20s. Ive not seen much to suggest otherwise

Last edited by Bop (2015-05-31 01:00:43)

 

#140 2015-05-31 08:05:36

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: London Ivy is all that counts in the UK !!!!! (And, also, ?????? )

 

#141 2015-05-31 08:17:18

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8544

Re: London Ivy is all that counts in the UK !!!!! (And, also, ?????? )

Less than 100 years later, and their sportswear would be considered by many to be too smart for an interview or wedding. In 100 years' time will the sportswear of today be considered too smart for even formal occasions?


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#142 2015-05-31 10:04:29

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: London Ivy is all that counts in the UK !!!!! (And, also, ?????? )


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#143 2015-06-01 02:42:45

Incognito
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Posts: 347

Re: London Ivy is all that counts in the UK !!!!! (And, also, ?????? )

 

#144 2015-06-01 02:46:09

Incognito
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Posts: 347

Re: London Ivy is all that counts in the UK !!!!! (And, also, ?????? )

 

#145 2015-06-01 02:54:01

Incognito
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Posts: 347

Re: London Ivy is all that counts in the UK !!!!! (And, also, ?????? )

 

#146 2015-06-01 02:59:29

Incognito
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Posts: 347

Re: London Ivy is all that counts in the UK !!!!! (And, also, ?????? )

 

#147 2015-06-01 03:05:07

Incognito
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Posts: 347

Re: London Ivy is all that counts in the UK !!!!! (And, also, ?????? )

 

#148 2015-06-01 03:10:49

Incognito
Member
Posts: 347

Re: London Ivy is all that counts in the UK !!!!! (And, also, ?????? )

 

#149 2015-06-01 03:13:03

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: The Lost County of Middlesex
Posts: 7959

Re: London Ivy is all that counts in the UK !!!!! (And, also, ?????? )

Well everybody, I think we have now done this subject to death for the umpteenth time so I shall draw a veil over this thread.


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

Achievements: banned from the Ivy Style FB Group

 
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