I've only ever watched a single episode of MM and that was after exhausting all other forms of entertainment on a 14 hour flight to Israel four years ago. Nonetheless, I just read a Salon article about an upcoming auction for clothing and set pieces from the series and I can't believe how shitty everything is, from the cheap poly-blend thrift clothes to the furniture and accessories. I thought this series was supposed to have won all kinds of awards for it's period accuracy. Anyhow, the most interesting thing that I can see is a '59 shawl tux in a possible sack cut, an old Trader Vic's porcelain island punch bowl, a brown Brooks tweed suit with limited info and detail and a pair of J.Crew madras shorts and modern Brooks loafers. I actually have a few other things like an ice bucket and even a Danish light fixture in my closet. 99% of it looks like thrift shop junk and even with the lack of detail in photos, lack of descriptions and sizing info, things are still incorrectly ID'd, like an ugly 70's looking two-button pincord listed as a seersucker suit, etc. This is really bad stuff... I was hoping to find some NewtonStreetVintage at it's prime-worthy listings. Are they just scraping the bottom of the barrel and what was the big deal about the wardrobe design with this show?
http://auction.screenbid.com/view-auctions/catalog/id/38/?page=1&items=100
What tends to happen is that the standard sized and good quality stuff goes back into the costumiers pool for other shoots, period movies and shows etc. Looks like this is the leftovers.
More common now also is that some actors have a clause in the contract to keep costumes. Not to sure if John Hamm wants to keep rocking' the Don Driver look though….
Watching the show I was surprised how much stuff was just standard OTR stuff. Mostly the BDs, loads of 80s looking collars, small and fused. Really can't say I spotted ONE long, unruly, unfused OCBD!
Ah I see. Although every single 1970's starched or perma-prest point collar is listed as a button-down in the above link, the one Brooks bd that I did come across is an 80's 7-button placket. I'm surprised any of this stuff even made it into the series to be honest.
Guess I'm in the minority but I didn't think the wardrobe in the show was that bad. Especially not in the later seasons as the encroaching hippy movement became a stronger influence. Not a lot of true "Ivy" in the show, sure, but a decent mid-century vibe.
In a quality show like that, the primary function of the wardrobe isn't to satisfy an online faction of 1960s purists but rather to serve as a visual representation of character development. Don's typically muted wardrobe of gray suits, white shirts, and black shoes is supposed to represent his cold demeanor or whatever, and Roger's three piece and double breasted suits (and his jewelry) are supposed to highlight his privileged upbringing, which was an important factor in his overall characterization (always feeling entitled, doing whatever he wants, etc.) Sure, I'd personally enjoy the show if they're were more creative and/or high quality garments (the typical absence of 3/2 jackets in the show is particularly sad) to ogle at, but I appreciated the costumes for what they were, and I believe the costume designer for Mad Men accomplished her goal of creating a believable and meaningful wardrobe for the characters in the show.
Last edited by Joey (2015-07-30 19:52:47)
I can't speak to the actual show because I've only seen that one episode but judging from what I see in the above link, it looks like I could piece together a better wardrobe with eBay - ivy or not. I doubt Madison Ave men would have been wearing cheap Penneys brand polyester blend knits and generic mid century brands marketed to low end department stores. Nevermind that many of the items are not vintage at all. I see modern Brooks Brothers penny loafers and J. Crew shorts. The late-60's/70's jackets (most of which are Brooks as well) are of the cheapest and lowest tier and the shirts are all poly-blend perm press crap, which has nothing to do with ivy really. Anyone with a loaded pocket book and discerning taste would have avoided that junk; nevermind that it's anything but mid century. It might be something a used car or furniture salesman would wear but Manhattan admen? Doubtful... Perhaps this isn't the best representation of the series though, I don't know.
Last edited by Oliver (2015-07-30 20:04:09)
Even the art and accessories are pretty tacky. It's the kind of kitschy 60's junk that you find in most CA garage sales and not something a six-figure Madison Ave man would be spending his paycheck on.
Most of this is just background - if you watched the show there was plenty of correct arts refs, esspecially in the early series. I really enjoyed it, but then again I didn't watch it for the clothes.
I enjoyed MM initially, there were the odd highlights like an episode where one of the characters hosted a party at his apartment and several guests wore madras jackets. I lost interest after the first couple of series, I can only watch so much 'slow burn' TV, an hours episode would drift by with nothing much having happened. I would rather spend time on something deep and meaningful e.g. trawling ebay for old clothes.
I've always liked the fact that, although Get Carter was filmed in the early 1970's, it was set in the late 60's. A difference of some five years, yet they actually designed the lead characters' costumes to look right. Imagine that now, a near contemporary drama bothering to design costume that look five years older. I suppose that would equate to having young male characters who, instead of looking like Victorian cricketers, look more like Justin Beiber.
There were odd moments, a few 3/2 rolls, occasionall bd with good roll- although mostly tiny collars picked up cheaply, the odd decent pair of shoes... but as Yuca often points out in relation to such series or films only a limited amount of effort was made towards keepung the costumes accurate?
I did quite fancy January Jones in the first few series though.
I think (as is the norm) that more attention was paid to the women's wardrobe than the men's. I enjoyed the show, watched every episode and (as you'd expect form a poster on here) paid attention to the men's clothes. The lack of Ivy was noticeable. Yes there were a couple of madras jackets but I don't recall spotting a single OCBD. Was this accurate of 60s Madison Avenue? Others on here know the answer to that better than me. The casual wear - Don's slacks and polos - seemed more Ivy though.
^ Yup, agreed.
It's one thing to be on the "spectrum", another thing to expect everyone else to be.
Like those blokes that bore you witless about trains, or reptiles, or whatever the hell else they're obsessed with.
Last edited by Harpo (2015-07-31 06:32:13)
I agree and disagree.. A good wardrobe doesn't save a shit film..breathless and Le Samourai are testament to that. But period details and costumes can really enhance them too...I think there is interest in getting things correct but normally other factors over shadow the production. Appeasing the trainspotter element of the viewers isn't at the top of the to do list in most cases
Last edited by Bop (2015-07-31 06:48:36)
Last edited by Kingston1an (2015-07-31 07:00:10)
Ha! I just get it down my bastard neck!
Waitaminute... Did Bop just call Le Samourai a shit film?!
I hope you know dat dis means war.
If you're going to do something, do it properly. If the clothes are crap (in relation to their purpose), generally speaking you can bet the series/film will be too. In other words, if someone makes an effort with the characters, script, casting etc etc they'll want everything else to be of a decent quality too.
I'm not saying the clothes have to be 100% accurate - how would we even now if they are? I for one am not that expert. But when they blatantly look like the garbage I see on the high street - forget it. There are an infinite number of films, TV shows and photos from the period in question, and they look a hell of a lot different to any shots I've seen of MM.
To be fair, a lot of the costuming on 'Mad Men' was done for symbolic relevance more than nitpicky period accuracy. The costuming impressed me massively and the costume designer Janie Bryant is a very smart woman if you hear or read her in interviews. For more on symbolism in the costuming see Tom and Lorenzo's Mad Style recaps and you'll see what I'm talking about: http://tomandlorenzo.com/tag/mad-style/