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#401 2017-07-21 12:55:23

Armchaired
Ivy I.V.
From: Old England
Posts: 7424

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

I thought you two would really dig this.
It is a HTJ scan i could be wrong but i think its early 80s.

Last edited by Armchaired (2017-07-21 13:00:59)


“My therapist told me that I over-analyze everything. I explained to him that he only thinks this because of his unhappy relationship with his mother.”

 

#402 2017-07-21 23:03:44

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
Posts: 837

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

'90s replica of 70s design, Patagonia

https://img0.etsystatic.com/129/0/11715692/il_570xN.921238536_6y4w.jpg


"Leadership and learning are indispensable to each other." - John F. Kennedy

"Always take your job seriously, never yourself." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

 

#403 2017-07-21 23:20:26

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
Posts: 837

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

stanshall wrote:

Berkeley_Breathes wrote:

Hoooly cow. Is that a HTJ scan? Incredible.

I mean, did it really happen?  what year was that from?  where was it?  it is Ivy perfection and could have come from any year from 1936 on, that was when the Bean blucher moc was introduced according to the company ....

every element is done just about as well as it can be, look at the shoulders, look at the lapels .....

I know it was possible because I dressed like that a few times over the years but it was for dates in the city not for campus

so hats off to this guy for putting it all together so inspirationally and really timelessly

the rounded shoulders, the palette, the Shetland, cuffs, bluchers, the taslan ....

now: supposedly the blucher mocs were introduced in 1936, but I can't find a catalogue scan to nail it down ....

there are a whole load of pages from a Fall 1936 catalogue out there, featuring a plethora of highly desirable stuff including early great versions of Maine Guide Shoes and the famous duffle bags and the tantalizing Sportsman's Carryall, but no posts of any pages containing the blucher mocs ....

there is a Fall 1936 catalogue for sale on eBay as we speak, I wonder if the blucher moccasin is in there, or if it was offered in some other special circular or mailing or advertisement?

I wonder if the ladies' blucher moccasin style actually predated the men's style and that was what was introduced by L. L. Bean in 1936?  hmmmmmmmmmm

anyway, I can see a very recognizable camp moc (called an Indian moccasin) in a 1933 Bean catalog, and something close to a blucher moccasin but with a crepe rubber sole (called a camp shoe) in the same catalogue ....

also see a similar style sold at Chicago sporting-goods emporium Von Lengerke & Antoine, which was owned by Abercrombie & Fitch, in 1939 ....

the point is: blucher moccasins or similar styles are proto-Ivy from the Americana side and as we know are distant descendants of Native American traditional footwear, to which the camp moc is more closely related than the blucher .....

isn't there anyplace that can resole current El Salvador Bean camp and blucher mocs with Amazonas true camp soles?  somebody, please find out for us ......

Indeed, sadly there's very little historical info on blucher mocs... I also see the '36 date bandied about but no photographic evidence... Interesting article to be written someday about the intersections of Ivy/prep and Native American culture, moccasins and lacrosse...

I'm sure Quoddy or one of those places would resole... I think the current LL Bean basic blucher mocs are not great in thew above as well as the below, leather feels very dry... I want to support the company as they provide jobs making Bean boots in the town I grew up in - Brunswick, Maine - but there isn't much keeping me coming back, to be honest. I have my trusty pair of Bean boots, which I had resoled and they did an excellent job, and I have some decent OCBDs and a vintage snap-T fleece and some other things kicking around, but if I want fleeces, shorts, etc. I'll go to Patagonia these days, outlet Patagonia most often, because I like their ethics better, and the quality seems better... and then for traditional stuff like mocs, OCBDs, chinos, LL Bean has a good price point but the product seems very compromised. I'll probably stick with Bean a little longer before throwing in the towel completely... but the sad truth is that companies like Mercer for shirts or Sebago, Raincourt, etc. need my business more than Bean, which is now very far from its origins as a Maine camping store or a prep/Ivy clothing store, and the higher prices are worth it for what I hate to say is much better quality. Heck, my Land's End boat shoes (which they then stopped making) felt better out of the box than my Bean's bluchers, and they're just starting to wear down too much in the soles two years later.

Sorry for the rant... A big part of the 70s prep look, as you've memorialized many times here, stan, is the appropriation of staples from sailing, camping, mountaineering, etc., clothes engineered to last a long time at maximal comfort, and their use by college kids to knock around in and smash together with button downs and moccasins and loafers and chinos and Levi's and all the other greatest hits of Ivy and classic American style... And Bean was an integral part of that for so long... But what will the new Bean's be? Speaking as someone who didn't leave the dorms *too* long ago, I'd say it's Patagonia. Everyone has it, and everyone wears it with all their old t-shirts and jeans and Birkenstocks. I know a few people who buy vintage Bean stuff too, fleece and flannel shirts usually...


"Leadership and learning are indispensable to each other." - John F. Kennedy

"Always take your job seriously, never yourself." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

 

#404 2017-07-23 19:17:13

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
Posts: 837

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

https://garywarnett.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/boatshoebeef.jpg

https://garywarnett.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/timberlandad4.jpg

https://garywarnett.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/backpacker5.jpg


"Leadership and learning are indispensable to each other." - John F. Kennedy

"Always take your job seriously, never yourself." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

 

#405 2017-07-23 23:42:47

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 3252

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

Truly great. It is a pity... While Timberland still does decent stuff (my moc boots are surprisingly good, scored them for €45,-- and they feature Pendleton lining and a very nice full grain leather... and their lug soled 3 eyelet boat shoes look very decent in the flesh!), their classic boat shoes do not meet the quality they had back then...

Last edited by Leer R. (2017-07-24 00:11:20)


http://maennergarderobe.blogspot.co.at

BB Makers shirts: 15.5/33, BB #1, 2 or 4 suits: 38R

 

#406 2017-07-27 16:14:11

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 10593

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

Got five or six classic Bean brown canvas duffles from the '70s and '80s, they served my brothers and me very well, we beat them up, who knew back then that Bean would morph and discontinue them, the bags had been in production for decades, I thought they'd be around forever.

Most of them have small holes that need mending, I'm up for it, my seamstress skills are strong, I just ordered a couple of specialty sailmaker's needles (W. Smith & Sons of Redditch, England) and special brown luggage repair thread (Coats & Clark, USA) to fix the bags with, really looking forward to my arts and crafts project, it will be the highlight of the summer.

Been wanting to fix these bags for years, getting on the good foot now ....

I was looking at an insane book of '70s rock photos the other day - Total Excess, by Michael Zagaris - and in it are some demented photos of the total badass John Mayall, but what pleased me most was the author's making a point of mentioning that Mayall was a skilled seamstress.  That was the specific word that was used.

John Mayall baby.

"Hand Sewing Needle #18 by W. Smith & Son is a high quality sailmaker’s hand-sewing needle. Forged in England from cast steel, this hand-sewing needle has a triangular point and sharp edges to cut through the fabric. The sharpness makes it easy to pass through heavier fabric assemblies."

https://cdn0.rubylane.com/shops/1355301/159.2L.jpg?42

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/83/02/2d/83022da7c548ce54ee4e3956c327b34d--ll-bean-duffel.jpg


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#407 2017-07-27 16:21:16

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 10593

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/55/52/65/555265b4457f2510b7c4413305c3274c.jpg


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#408 2017-07-28 19:25:27

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
Posts: 837

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

Stan, great photo of that duffel, who knew indeed...

In Maine for a week, was just walking through the Bowdoin student center and noticed that Bowdoin has LL Bean making some apparel for them now... might have to check it out although I'm sure the prices are exorbitant... It's funny that you posted that great shot of the Patagonia label, I think the era of subtle (or no) visible branding is gone for good... LL Bean still retains some level of subtlety but there's a "Only those in the know will know" aspect to the old stuff that's really great...

Seamstress, I love it! I should grab some of those to repair some ailing Carhartt dungarees I have, wore them out working as a carpenter a few years ago, they're faded to perfection and fit in the waist and legs much better than the intended replacements I bought a while back... The replacements are sitting barely worn in a drawer somewhere while the dying old favorites are still in rotation...

Just looked at the Danner Jag boots recently, they reminded me of the great New Balance 710s which are unfortunately not being sold in the leather/green colorway at the moment... The Danners are on the wish list...

http://images.danner.com/is/image/LaCrosse/32224?$lacrosse_large_thumb_2x$


"Leadership and learning are indispensable to each other." - John F. Kennedy

"Always take your job seriously, never yourself." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

 

#409 2017-07-31 08:26:40

The Absintheist
Member
Posts: 170

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

The jag boot looks great. Can you let us know about the sizing if and when you order a pair?

 

#410 2017-07-31 14:40:49

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 10593

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

from the 1975 The North Face catalogue:

http://www.outinunder.com/sites/default/files/styles/large_780/public/images/tnf%20catalog%20024.jpg?itok=qYc4D33n


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#411 2017-07-31 14:53:10

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 10593

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

1971, ultimate with Adidas, this looks fun:

http://www.gethorizontal.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/retro-frisbee.jpg


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#412 2017-08-03 07:44:07

Babbling Brooks
Member
Posts: 73

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/da/2f/75/da2f75af0299ecfc9c7c2d0c3503062e.jpg

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/21/04/20/2104203130a08bcf684c7d6888fee4c5.jpg

Last edited by Babbling Brooks (2017-08-03 07:55:24)

 

#413 2017-08-03 15:00:09

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 10593

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

/\  haha ... these two seem more like Early '80s Prep based on the haircuts ... definitely Reagan-era post-OPH-publication guys rather than rugged '70s preps .....

remember that the Top-Siders of this era were of very high quality ....

guessing the lower pic is of some guy at Harvard based on the shopping bag and the sweater color .....

the upper pic, I'm trying to recognize the buildings ... the guy reminds me of this weenus freshman advisor from Grosse Pointe we had in our dorm that year ....


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#414 2017-08-03 19:17:38

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 10593

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

newsflash: down jackets beloved of Late '70s Preps predate '50s Ivy:

Eddie Bauer original eiderdown Blizzard down jacket ad, 1939:

http://blog.eddiebauer.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/1939-OL-Skyliner-001.jpg

Eddie Bauer down jacket ad, 1942:

http://www.fieldandstream.com/sites/fieldandstream.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/import/2014/import/Image/2012/photo/23/DU_1942.jpg?itok=M3d8S33J

Eddie Bauer down jacket ad, 1945:

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/32/29/82/322982758f917a5d50a9daf124686ad1--s-fashion-fashion-men.jpg

Eddie Bauer down jacket ad, 1952:

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/3c/5f/8e/3c5f8e1c82b160e8a3ffb4e93fc1a59e--the-early-years-eddie-bauer.jpg


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#415 2017-08-04 05:58:23

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 10593

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

down jackets, predating Ivy since 1939:

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/04/4c/43/044c43384ba3ebda8d9a07981779766e.jpg


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#416 2017-08-04 10:32:41

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 10593

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

Outdoor Life magazine ad for hiking gear, June 1974:

http://www.outdoors.org/articles/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/1974_June_0123-698x1024.jpg

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/uploads/275_outdoor_life_june_1974_.jpg


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#417 2017-08-04 21:45:10

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
Posts: 837

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

stan, you're absolutely killing it with these pics... Love the Eddie Bauer... how much did you see Bauer stuff on campus back in the day? I know we've been complaining about Bean's, but they've done a much better job of stewarding their traditional clothing, as much as we can improve it from our Ivy armchairs, than Bauer...


"Leadership and learning are indispensable to each other." - John F. Kennedy

"Always take your job seriously, never yourself." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

 

#418 2017-08-09 22:15:25

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 10593

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

Berkeley_Breathes wrote:

stan, you're absolutely killing it with these pics... Love the Eddie Bauer... how much did you see Bauer stuff on campus back in the day? I know we've been complaining about Bean's, but they've done a much better job of stewarding their traditional clothing, as much as we can improve it from our Ivy armchairs, than Bauer...

thanks BB, I don't think there was ever nearly as much Eddie Bauer as L. L. Bean on the Old Campus back in the late '70s/early '80s, but I do know that I had a couple of their down jackets, as did one of my younger brothers, and though I liked and loved lots of the classic Bean gear of the era, the Eddie Bauer down jacket(s) I had then were absolutely top-notch .....

I'm holding one of my actual jackets from those days in my hands right now ... it's more than 35 years old ... stout navy blue 60/40 poplin with navy corduroy collar perfection ....

fuzzing out now a bit and it's hard to remember whether it was mine or my brother's, I seem to recall that mine had a rounded collar whereas the beauty I've got now has a regular point collar .....

I also have a warm memory of this mega-monster khaki down parka in 60/40 with detachable hood and forest-green lining that I think was from REI, as I've written before I used to run around late on cold nights in this toasty eiderdown igloo (from REI, but it might have also been from EMS, cannot pin it down now), with a navy long-sleeved waffle tee, Levi's 505s, and Bean Maine Hunting Shoes ....

... this was my outfit for making the crucial midnight runs for the hot Connecticut-style subs/grinders from the pizza ovens of Broadway and Yorkside which kept me alive that first semester, when I would have starved to death if I had had to live on the food at Commons .... not joking here in the least .....

giant eggplant parmigiana grinders on proper crusty Italian loaves, heavy with spicy red marinara sauce and oozing melted, browned mozzarella cheese ..... chased with a couple of soda pops and a hot chocolate ..... = Good Times 

REI down "Super Sweater" from 1975:

https://assets.sectionhiker.com/wp-content/uploads/thumbskeep/2013/01/1d07bffc-cf1f-4487-8498-4ff47c4efd19.jpg

this grinder hails from Providence but we can still dig it very much, it's a dead ringer for the ones I enjoyed then and now:

https://s3-media3.fl.yelpcdn.com/bphoto/8sGOiEiVRoWVk9sIkJFqhg/o.jpg


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#419 2017-08-10 07:21:04

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 3252

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

Heavenly stuff...


http://maennergarderobe.blogspot.co.at

BB Makers shirts: 15.5/33, BB #1, 2 or 4 suits: 38R

 

#420 2017-08-11 06:51:12

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 10593

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

/\  thanks Leer old buddy, I know you're a fan of vintage down jackets and Late '70s Prep too!


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#421 2017-08-11 07:01:22

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 10593

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

https://thewildwood.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/bean-boot-3.jpg


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#422 2017-08-12 14:18:55

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
Posts: 837

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

HTJ archives - 1979...

https://68.media.tumblr.com/27c243d5e7db26a56ce36544acfc41f1/tumblr_oukur4lEtM1r1mdsgo1_1280.jpg


"Leadership and learning are indispensable to each other." - John F. Kennedy

"Always take your job seriously, never yourself." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

 

#423 2017-08-16 08:10:43

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 10593

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

http://www.primermagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/Campsides_2-1440x600.jpg


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#424 Yesterday 20:44:08

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
Posts: 837

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

1982 - Tulane...

https://s26.postimg.org/fezn3m1jd/Screen_Shot_2017-08-22_at_22.29.45.png

https://s26.postimg.org/900m6xutl/Screen_Shot_2017-08-22_at_22.32.50.png

https://s26.postimg.org/52dchj809/Screen_Shot_2017-08-22_at_22.33.23.png

Rod Lavers, boat shoes and penny loafers... the trifecta...
https://s26.postimg.org/57h3r7fbd/Screen_Shot_2017-08-22_at_22.36.35.png

https://s26.postimg.org/8gvixo3ex/Screen_Shot_2017-08-22_at_22.38.05.png

https://s26.postimg.org/flie3tgzt/Screen_Shot_2017-08-22_at_22.39.27.png

https://s26.postimg.org/jpeaz76mh/Screen_Shot_2017-08-22_at_22.40.21.png

https://s26.postimg.org/7dbelpirt/Screen_Shot_2017-08-22_at_22.41.05.png

https://s26.postimg.org/vjm1wu4w9/Screen_Shot_2017-08-22_at_22.41.21.png


"Leadership and learning are indispensable to each other." - John F. Kennedy

"Always take your job seriously, never yourself." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

 

#425 Yesterday 21:41:41

Sidewinder
Member
Posts: 554

Re: The Late 70s Prep Checklist

Fantastic. The blonde babe with the white shorts and Dr Pepper...be still my beating heart.

Lacoste to the max back in '82.

Last edited by Sidewinder (Yesterday 21:42:59)

 

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