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#1 2015-11-19 09:34:34

Tommy
Member
Posts: 1753

The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

So, we're side tracking the bleedin' madras thread, lets discuss how realistic the idea we've all been bouncing off each other for months is?

First up, what do we want?!

Second, who will make them? Hertling, Camerton, any other ideas (note: ideas from any incarnation of Jim will be ignored)

Thirdly, how could we fund it and how could we import it to the Europe without massive import duties?

 

#2 2015-11-19 09:44:19

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

I may be willing to just pay to make them without any of that crowd-funding kickstarter stuff.  I see the benefit of that model, but I'd almost just rather take the risk and try my luck selling 30 - 60 pairs.  I'm not even interested in making money at first, just as long as I don't completely loose my ass.  Breaking even would be an initial success in my mind.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#3 2015-11-19 09:44:31

Tommy
Member
Posts: 1753

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

I want them in Navy, an interesting shade of Khaki and Olive, with a 12-12.5" Rise, 33W and 28.5 leg, 7.5-8" at the hem.

 

#4 2015-11-19 09:46:44

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

On-seam or offset pockets? 

Full-length zipper fly is a must, IMO. 

Need to have the option of finishing and cuffs. 

12.5" rise on waists up to 32 - 33?  Then 13" rise on 33 - 36?  And so on. 

Can I request each interested member to post their waist and inseam?


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#5 2015-11-19 09:51:25

Tomiskinky
Member
Posts: 3231

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

I think unfinished would be best, that way you have the choice to cuff or not.

I have a lack of navy in my closet so they would be a priority.

31 - 32 waist.

 

#6 2015-11-19 09:51:58

rmpmcdermott
Member
From: Washington, D.C.
Posts: 1073

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

Make sure you got a couple 38x30s in there for me. And I vote for offset pockets.


To be, or not to be; that is the bare bodkin. - Mark Twain

 

#7 2015-11-19 09:56:50

I am the sea
Member
Posts: 106

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

30 waist, 30 inseam. What kind of price are we talking here?

 

#8 2015-11-19 10:01:27

Acton_Baby
Member
From: West London
Posts: 3848

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

All well and good but this isn't going to work as MTM service,
a basic chino in one colour is probably the best starting point.

Tommy if you want 7.5-8" hem on a pair with a 28.5" inside leg you'll probably need to taper them yourself, as it would mean the 32" leg would have to be a 6.5" hem to avoid them looking like jodphurs ( you need to preserve the taper as if they are parallel from 27"  on the inside leg down they will have a pronounced 'jodphur' effect when worn ).

Hertling aren't the only option, but they are the only maker who have something very close to what we want already in their range (so no pattern making costs).
Cramerton isn't a clothing maker , Cramerton Cloth is a Gayley and Lord product used originally for military uniforms and then later civilian chinos.


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#9 2015-11-19 10:01:44

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#10 2015-11-19 10:04:15

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

Maintaining a close-to-perfect taper across sizes, especially inseam, seems to be the tricky aspect.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#11 2015-11-19 10:06:59

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

I foresee a couple of different ratios of taper, applied to various inseam options.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#12 2015-11-19 10:11:24

Chief Brody
Member
Posts: 1822

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

30x29: With a 7.5" leg opening please. In Olive and Navy. Offset pockets. Zipper and rivet-style jean button please.
(But an unfinished length with 8" hem would suffice. So I can get them cuffed this side of the atlantic)

And they'll be here tomorrow, right? wink

Last edited by Chief Brody (2015-11-19 10:13:15)

 

#13 2015-11-19 10:12:10

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

I predicted your requests, and they're already in the mail.  How's that for service?!


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#14 2015-11-19 10:12:46

Chief Brody
Member
Posts: 1822

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

 

#15 2015-11-19 10:13:39

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

Perhaps 7.5 - 7.75" hem width on smaller waist sizes and an 8" hem width on larger sizes?


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#16 2015-11-19 10:13:46

Chief Brody
Member
Posts: 1822

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

 

#17 2015-11-19 10:15:53

Acton_Baby
Member
From: West London
Posts: 3848

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#18 2015-11-19 10:16:35

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

Well, as Tommy requests, everyone just dump ideas in here for a while and let's see where we stand in a few days.  We'll obviously need to offer something with a lace crotch to accommodate Thee Capitan.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#19 2015-11-19 10:18:48

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#20 2015-11-19 10:20:53

Chief Brody
Member
Posts: 1822

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

In fairness, if a pair of trousers are good to the knee- then I am happy, as I almost always have some alteration made. Cuffs, taper, hem-job (ahem! whahey!)…etc. You dig? So chill on the taper, Son!

 

#21 2015-11-19 10:24:57

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

Yeah, I rarely opt for any finishing, so I'm with you there.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#22 2015-11-19 10:39:41

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

Yeah i think concentrating on the things that cant be altered later allows for a lot more scope..

Theres a book you might want to read about co-operatives..

 

#23 2015-11-19 10:49:10

Oliver
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 6321

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

 

#24 2015-11-19 11:42:02

Billax
Ivy Original.
Posts: 166

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

I've shrunk a bit, due to standard aging stuff, but I'm a 34W-29I and I ALWAYS have my casual trousers tapered to 7.75" at the leg opening. I have – umm – LOTS of Khakis, but I'd be good for 5-6 pairs if the specs were right. I vote here for Stone, which is my primary Khaki color.

 

#25 2015-11-19 11:46:35

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

THE MAN arrives to bestow his hallowed advice and endorsement!

Good to see you, Billax.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 
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