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#51 2015-11-19 20:05:16

sonofstan
Member
Posts: 261

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

30" waist 34" inseam, but, as others have said, unfinished is probably best.

 

#52 2015-11-19 20:20:25

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 3450

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

Last edited by Leer R. (2015-11-20 02:27:46)

 

#53 2015-11-19 23:03:47

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#54 2015-11-20 00:32:21

Tommy
Member
Posts: 1753

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

 

#55 2015-11-20 00:41:21

Harpo
The Best In The West
From: West Wales
Posts: 3394

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread


Randy lower-class trifler

 

#56 2015-11-20 00:47:33

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 3450

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

Oh, yes. Original Khakis even had pleats! And weird waistbands wink Very un-Ivy wink

http://onlinemilitaria.net/products/4213-UK-Officer-Khaki-Drill-Trousers/?bc=no

Last edited by Leer R. (2015-11-20 00:48:48)

 

#57 2015-11-20 00:51:39

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2177

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#58 2015-11-20 01:08:57

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8543

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

Last edited by Yuca (2015-11-20 01:10:32)


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#59 2015-11-20 02:26:48

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 3450

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

I am not very often d'accord with Yuca. But here I am smile

 

#60 2015-11-20 02:38:15

Tommy
Member
Posts: 1753

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

Only thing I'd change in Yuca's post is that Take Ivy was mid 60s being published in 1965

 

#61 2015-11-20 03:09:15

Acton_Baby
Member
From: West London
Posts: 3848

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#62 2015-11-20 03:19:53

colin
Bright Light
Posts: 1314

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

^^^ Really interesting, thanks AB. I assume that the word 'cack' derives from the same Persian term of khaki?

Further proof also that claims of 'authenticity' of a particular garment/cloth to a particular country/time is often a load of nonsense.

Last edited by colin (2015-11-20 03:20:13)

 

#63 2015-11-20 03:21:15

Acton_Baby
Member
From: West London
Posts: 3848

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

^ yep colin, cack and it's variants are Persian. big_smile


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#64 2015-11-20 03:40:41

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8543

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#65 2015-11-20 03:42:32

Harpo
The Best In The West
From: West Wales
Posts: 3394

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

Actually, words like "cack" are Indo-European, of which Persian "khaki" would be just one example. For instance, the Welsh "cachu"  meaning to
shit wouldn't have come from Persian, but would have come from the same very distant Indo-European root. I believe the word is similar in Irish and Scots Gaelic, too. So "cack" could have entered English from these origins, or from British Indian Army slang, which has contributed a lot to the English language!


Randy lower-class trifler

 

#66 2015-11-20 03:47:00

colin
Bright Light
Posts: 1314

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

^^^ Very good!

 

#67 2015-11-20 05:10:32

The Woolster
Ivy Antenna
Posts: 1829

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

 

#68 2015-11-20 05:28:55

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

Ill have a shit coloured pair ta..

 

#69 2015-11-20 05:35:03

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2177

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

In Finland the term kakka is used in baby talk as in poo. I'll take poo coloured.


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#70 2015-11-20 05:36:04

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 3450

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

It is all a matter of the back rise. 13" is necessary, when the back rise isn't high enough. I should measure my old cords at home and my LVC cords. Ah, and my Polo chinos. Those are perfect old fashion high rise but I doubt they are higher than 12,5. They are more 12" I suppose. But in the back they are so high that they look really high rise. 13" can become too high if the back rise is also really high. Nobody wants them REALLY below the nipples wink

If I am wrong I'll let you know.

Last edited by Leer R. (2015-11-20 05:40:09)

 

#71 2015-11-20 05:37:40

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 3450

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

 

#72 2015-11-20 05:53:01

The Woolster
Ivy Antenna
Posts: 1829

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

Last edited by The Woolster (2015-11-20 05:53:31)

 

#73 2015-11-20 07:09:38

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

Great info as always, Acton.  A bit on Cramerton specifically here:
http://www.textilehistory.org/CramertonMills.html


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#74 2015-11-20 07:16:49

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

Of course the back rise will be taken into account, as it's integral to the fit.  I think it's necessary that each pair comes with plenty of excess fabric for future expansion.  I also agree with you about the on-seam pockets being requisite.  Others seem to want the offset/angles pockets.  But I'm with Woolster in that these need to be legit natural waist trousers.  No messing about in that department.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#75 2015-11-20 08:01:11

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 3450

Re: The getting our own natural waist "collegiate cut" chino's made thread

No messing. All my vintage high rise trousers from the 60s have a back rise of atleast 15.7 up to16.5. Some have a front rise of 11, some are 11.8 and some about 12.2

BUT. The 11" trousers have a back rise of 16.5.

So. 12" and 16.5 is my suggestion. I suppose the ones that want to have 13" measure differently. I measure like the tailor showed me, adding the bit on the 'front' below the seam (the seam between the legs, on the 'crossroads') to the back and not to the front rise. This is important... Otherwise the measurements are off!

 
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