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#1 2015-11-24 14:22:11

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: The Lost County of Middlesex
Posts: 7959

Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

Tom's post on the 'Where's Henry?' mentioned H selling some of his ivy gear and perhaps moving away from the look. 4F Hepcat is wavering as well    sad

Personally, having spent more time and money than I care to think about building up a reasonable wardrobe of the look, I plan to spend many more years wearing it. I can see that I may come to a point where I'm no longer quite so anal about some details, for example, as I'm wearing a collar and tie all the time at work now I have started to throw a plain point collar (always Brooks) into the mix now and then as they can look better with a formal suit and tie. But by and large I am quite happy and am now just upgrading when the chance occurs and getting rid of the odd thing I no longer wear, but my allegiance remains. I say this particularly in relation to the natural shoulder look, I just couldn't entertain a jacket with padded shoulders and a nipped in waist anymore. I tried on an English hacking jacket the other day in JS, just for fun .....it looked ghastly to me, a completely different feeling and appearance which I didn't like at all. Low waist trousers feel equally as bad.

The once great Jimmy used to talk about certain people having gone 'beyond ivy'  ............ but where is that place?


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

Achievements: banned from the Ivy Style FB Group

 

#2 2015-11-24 14:51:28

Oliver
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 6321

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

I would think the natural shift would be towards American workwear casuals: union made raglan sleeved loop wheel sweats and raw denim, Buzz Rickson WWII repros; stuff like that.

 

#3 2015-11-24 15:26:59

rmpmcdermott
Member
From: Washington, D.C.
Posts: 1073

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

The first and foremost reason I've taken on the Ivy League Look over the last few years is because of its simplicity. I can wake up in the morning and pull nearly anything out of my closet and it will look good. After that, yes, it is a bit about the fetishization of things like the sack jacket and OCBDs. But since that isn't the main reason, I see myself continuing this style for a very long time. A few years ago I decided that I'd had enough of wearing jeans and a band t-shirt everyday. I'm done getting tattoos (though I don't regret any that I've gotten and, honestly, there isn't much room left on my arms anyway).

I know that doesn't answer your question, but I do agree with Oliver that beyond Ivy is probably American workwear like chore jackets and American/Japanese raw denim.


To be, or not to be; that is the bare bodkin. - Mark Twain

 

#4 2015-11-24 15:36:55

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

I think new things have always come along and been added to the ivy cannon...it is I suppose the choice of the ivy practioner to chose contemporary things to add to their wardrobe..20s Ivy is different from 50s which is different than late 60s which is again different from late 7os...there are traditional pieces than run right through it..and things that get incorporated in..also it's about your personal taste and character you can add...

The temptation at the moment is to go pre 50s but the price of 30s/40s workwear is out of my reach but also its another step backwards..and in someway a dead end. It is over stylised and I dipped my toe but thought otherwise ... the fed lounge look is a museum piece look and I feel like its not to far away from those people that dress up in period dress and reenact battles as much as I can appricate it I dont think its me.

What Id like to do is maintain the conservative base that is Ivy and the look still looks contemporary to me. But I want add things I feel that work with the exsisting look.. I also want to move forward and not just replicate looks but create new takes on it that aren't missing the important parts..

I feel very happy with what I wear at the moment, its a nod to the things I see in free&easy but I cant afford that stuff either..so its my ebay scavenging from old USA made Ll Bean..Uniqlo, and other little vintage things that work..I guess the look is one foot in Ivy the other in those type of brands you see in oi polloi and garbstore..but without buying them..just making similar looks out of what I have.

 

#5 2015-11-24 15:57:21

Joey
Member
From: Jazztown, USA
Posts: 660

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

Most of the members of this site have a lot of Americana in their wardrobes anyway. I feel like "Ivy" is just the formal side of Americana. To that end, Americana takes less effort. It's easy to wear Levi's and a flannel shirt- I could understand getting tired of wearing a sack suit every day, especially if it's not necessary for your profession.

The Ivy look is a fickle thing. I love the details of everything in the photos from Take Ivy and the Hollywood book. But I'm quite happy using the elements I like to build my own wardrobe as a combination of Ivy, Americana, and occasionally just stuff I like (Breton sweaters, bow ties).

I've gone in and out of periods in which I strove to emulate exactly the looks of 1960s college students. I think I'm past that stage now, but I'll always retain certain elements. The buttondown shirt and the sport coat are details that I hold onto. I don't think I'll ever be comfortable in a jacket without 3 buttons and natural shoulders.

Common looks for me include combinations of mocs, loafers, Levi's, cords, khakis, sweaters, flannel buttondowns, OCBDs, sack jackets (including Keydge), chore coats...

Last edited by Joey (2015-11-24 15:59:21)

 

#6 2015-11-24 16:06:10

rmpmcdermott
Member
From: Washington, D.C.
Posts: 1073

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?


To be, or not to be; that is the bare bodkin. - Mark Twain

 

#7 2015-11-24 16:28:20

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

I'd say no, but I'll revisit this thread in about 30 years and let you guys know where I stand.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#8 2015-11-24 16:49:27

Tommy
Member
Posts: 1753

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

I'm an atheist, there is no afterlife in my belief!

 

#9 2015-11-24 17:13:35

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

My ivy wardrobe will live on.  That will be my legacy: a huge moth feast!  Come 'n get it you bastards!


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#10 2015-11-24 17:47:20

Tommy
Member
Posts: 1753

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

 

#11 2015-11-24 17:58:08

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

That's it.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#12 2015-11-24 19:05:16

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

it's a very simple thing ....

the preference for the rolled, curving sinuous buttondown collar and a rounded sloping shoulder line is aesthetic ... the curves and proportions of good Ivy will always look better to me than the angularity of other cuts no matter how skillful the tailoring ....

curves versus straight lines .... the flatness of a typical plain collar is arid to my eye while the buttondown collar is alive and almost in motion .... kinetically speaking .....

look at the pics of the boom years, with the students in their Ivy and the professors and administration in their sad straight plain collars .....

but to wear the buttondown collar may be fraught with difficulty in certain fields I suppose ... some have given up the collar to look more prosperous, or less elitist, or more seriously professional, or less American, and if that's the case good luck and I hope the strategy is working .....

but I like penny loafers with suits, and buttondown collars, and flat-front trousers, and the roll and proportions, lines and smooth face of a nice undarted 3/2 sack sport coat, with  center hook vent ....


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#13 2015-11-24 22:57:29

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

Like Ive always said, from what Ive read...the true 'male' type brain ie right brain is attracted to curves..not angular lines.. the left brain prefers strong linear and angular aesthetics. I personally feel very  uneasy around clinical angular lines it does nothing for the soul.

However, the truth to any quality design is the balance of both the straight and symmetrical, which depicts power and things being static, as well as the curve and the asymmetric nature of movement. Would you believe it was car journalist and hot food enthusiast Jeremy Clarkson that made me first aware of that principle? I am incredibly right brained I like the VW Beatle and the Karmann Ghia, I like Monroe and Dors...Picasso and Van Gogh..when I draw I naturally plot out using the relationship of curves... Van Gogh was said to have done similar during his stay at the mental asylum..where he would use parametric curves through out the paintings. Maybe it was this drive to asymmetry that lead him to cut his ear off, and not for the love of a prostitute at all!?

In short..people of a right brained persuasion will prefer curves. I hate square shoulders, I hate sharp angular collars..and neatness is the underpin of all Fascism.. which is why the further the USA has moved from the look the worse it's politics has become. Strange then that the VW beatle is the product of a fascist government.

Last edited by Bop (2015-11-24 23:01:44)

 

#14 2015-11-25 00:03:20

Moose Maclennan
Ivy Inspiration
From: Hernando's Hideaway
Posts: 4577

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

I keep thinking I should make more of an effort (and to be fair, when it's called for I love dressing up), but there's a lot more denim, workwear, sportswear and t-shirts in the mix now.

 

#15 2015-11-25 01:12:06

The Woolster
Ivy Antenna
Posts: 1829

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

 

#16 2015-11-25 01:30:09

katon
Member
Posts: 363

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

In getting to know the look, a lot of time is spent hunting down "Little Tent" Ivy; not just a button-down collar, but a collar that rolls just right... not just a regimental tie, but a Brooks #1 repp tie... not just a blazer, but a blazer with triple patch pockets and swelled edges. I think sometimes this makes it harder to see "Big Tent" Ivy, so when people find themselves wanting to go somewhere not in the Little Tent, they leave Ivy entirely.

The Ivy world is so vast... I mean, even if you just want to wear tracksuits all the time, Brooks Brothers has a variety in their back catalog. smile

Last edited by katon (2015-11-25 01:32:23)

 

#17 2015-11-25 07:26:17

SpringForward
Member
Posts: 82

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

I think that a person's personal conception of Ivy as as menswear style might be the key here.
Look towards the history of the look.
Plain points are fine. The button down really isn't make or break.
The natural shoulder, I agree, is a defining element.
Only an opinion.

 

#18 2015-11-25 08:28:49

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

 

#19 2015-11-25 09:02:20

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#20 2015-11-25 10:07:03

The Woolster
Ivy Antenna
Posts: 1829

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

 

#21 2015-11-25 12:15:16

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

/\ good stuff Woolly, great colors ....

as much as I miss the Ivy and preppy shops that have disappeared or now sell generally inferior and/or differently styled merchandise, I miss the old sporting goods stores and the tough old made in the USA Champion, Russell, and Wilson stuff they sold .....

yesterday I was wearing a US-made Champion long-sleeved t-shirt that I bought at a sporting goods store in '86, I bought two then, I wish I'd bought four ....

this morning I was digging my Anvil pocket tee that has great proportions, i.e., not too fitted and not too long

but now I've changed to a different loose-fitting long-sleeved pocket tee ,and baggy 501 shrink-to-fits that are starting to get the droopy hip-hop ass and baggy blown-out knees I need, and a pair of N*ew Balance* USA 998s 

tonight I'll carry a knit hat and a Russell zip hoodie and the Anvil t-shirt, I will be outdoors and it will be windy ..... wool cream Wigwams, CVO-esque Vans .....

some of the most coveted Ivy items of all, on campus at least, were team sweats, tees, jackets, jerseys, and warm-ups made by Champion and Russell


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#22 2015-11-26 06:40:34

SpringForward
Member
Posts: 82

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

 

#23 2015-11-26 07:08:22

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 3450

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

There was always other stuff in the mix for me... But I guess there will always be the Ivy bit, too. I am wearing mostly Ivy OCBDs these days and really enjoy Ivy casual stuff...

 

#24 2015-11-26 07:40:36

Acton_Baby
Member
From: West London
Posts: 3848

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

Well I'm off to Old Town, they don't try to sell me 'madras anything'. big_smile

Seriously, my own taste would probably send me in the direction of Old Town or some of the Japanese 'craft' labels, don't know how to describe the look but it's soft fabrics and a bit 'slouchy'- the very reasons I dig most Ivy stuff.
The main thing holding me back is the apparent need for is manicured facial hair and a seeming penchant for vegetable gardening.


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#25 2015-11-26 08:18:08

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

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