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#226 2016-02-01 11:09:47

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

You never had to be an Ivy Leaguer to wear Ivy, you just had to like the campus style that the students had been cooking up since the 1920s which the makers and sellers capitalized on by playing up the words that they bet would excite prospective buyers: university, campus, Ivy, squire.

Even if you didn't like it you were kind of stuck with it for a decade and a half.

But Ivy never lost its campus roots, whether the campus was Yale, Princeton, or Georgia Tech, and at the same time it was never worn by many men who did not want to give up their broader shouldered two-button darted ventless suits and pleated trousers and plain collars of the '40s, which is readily apparent from the photos and films of the era.

The boardroom cut, the Hollywood/Reagan cut, all that exaggeration, that continued to be sold to many men even as "Ivy" was becoming a crossover hit.

Many men achieved success in the working world without the benefit of a college education and were fine with their '30s and '40s suits and were indifferent to clothes promising to make them look like students from New England campuses.

And at the same time many students who didn't care about clothes at all were herded into Ivy once the shops stocked up on Ivy.

All these things happened simultaneously, there was acceptance of Ivy, conversion to Ivy, rejection of Ivy, persisting with Ivy ....

But when the period of Ivy for the masses ended, it actually stayed alive, though on a smaller level and under a different (original) name, in the schools and towns where it had originated, and in the shops that had catered to preps and students forever, that is, Brooks Brothers, J. Press, and their smaller spiritual cousins.

When the masses had tired of buttondown collars and sacks and penny loafers they dropped them and by 1969 the national Ivy trend was over.

Yet much of the clothing continued to be made, sold, and bought through the '70s and '80s.

Who was buying and wearing it during the Dark Ages?

Last edited by stanshall (2016-02-01 14:46:55)


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#227 2016-02-01 14:21:36

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

It is very completely circular to be fair, and presents a classic epistemological question, but essentially without the students to wear it there would have been no mass Ivy style of menswear.

Most of the men buying Ivy menswear were students.

That's it.  Every damn American was a student, there were no unschooled American wearers of Ivy, especially Miles Davis and Paul Newman and Jack Lemmon.

Montgomery Clift, well he didn't go to college but his brother Brooks went to Harvard and his sister went to Bryn Mawr.

More Ivy than Hollywood.

Just the facts, Jack.  The facts of the marketing are all there in theivyleaguelook site and the catalogues and elsewhere on the web, we know it was advertised in the New Yorker etc.

The New Yorker was written, edited, and read by Harvard and Yale grads and their ilk, and the ad agencies that came up with the ads were filled with copywriters fresh out of the Ivy League.

Not opinion. 

So not only did the students create the look, but they bought it, wore it, and marketed it too.

The students created the marketing ultimately, as the actual ad-men who'd either been recently been college students or had kids in college or high school and were in touch, and as the subject of the imagery of the ads and the lifestyle (the preppy lifestyle supplied much other imagery in Ivy marketing natch), and as the most important mass consumers of the goods proportionally and numerically.  Baby boom, kids needing new clothes every six months etc.

There is no taking the students out of the equation.

of course J. Press advertised on a tiny scale to students and local professionals in their campus towns, but it was very small-scale

the heaviest marketing of Ivy tried to draw Everyman in and that's what we all thrill to see, that brief moment in time when it was truly popular across the socio-economic spectrum.

But there never was a time that the street, Madison Avenue included, contained more concentrated Ivy clothing than a Georgia Tech yearbook, and the menswear-wearing men who wore Ivy were outnumbered by the students who wore it.

During Ivy, all kids wore it unless they were way out on the farm, whereas a smaller number of men converted to it.

The Old Guard crusties from Boston and New York who had been wearing sacks forever continued wearing it entirely oblivious to marketing.  They hated the idea of being manipulated by advertising and resisted it even though they ran J. Walter Thompson.

the evidence of the students wearing it consistently from 1954-68 is in the record, a factual record.

Last edited by stanshall (2016-02-01 18:35:50)


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#228 2016-02-01 14:52:23

Armchaired
Ivy I.V.
From: Old England
Posts: 7580

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

Sad news tonight about Billax ,thank god we have our own ivy league original in Stan.
Its a pleasure sharing this space with you F............Everything above makes perfect sense.


�Careful with that axe Eugene.�

 

#229 2016-02-01 16:39:25

katon
Member
Posts: 363

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

 

#230 2016-02-01 17:03:34

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

Last edited by stanshall (2016-02-01 17:06:27)


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#231 2016-02-01 23:08:30

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

 

#232 2016-02-02 08:58:02

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

Last edited by stanshall (2016-02-02 14:38:48)


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#233 2016-02-02 10:40:21

marlowe v2.0
Member
Posts: 477

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

"...with the button down collar, and the button down families...it just seems there ought to be more..."

 

#234 2016-02-02 18:05:24

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

/\ "... everywhere I go, people all know, everyone's doin' that rag ...."


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#235 2016-02-04 06:32:50

SpringForward
Member
Posts: 82

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

... Worthy of mention is what the mainstream marketing of Ivy mainly was: It was all about students.

 

#236 2016-02-04 07:56:55

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: Is There An Ivy Afterlife?

College life, looking good, having fun, and dating, but there were ads that depicted Ivy at work and the office too.

Last edited by stanshall (2016-02-04 07:57:41)


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

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