Hello!
I usually go for a 40R when I buy jackets, should I use those measurements on the coat also? I'm wondering since I usually, with jackets, go with 18" shoulders, but if I was to buy an overcoat I generally have a suit on, shouldn't that be too tight?
Also, what colors are versatile? I was watching The Godfather last night and kinda liked Mikes brown one in the shopping scene.
I'm a 40l in jackets, Sancho and I went for a 40l overcoat. Obviously the sizing various for a 40 anyway, but I find vintage sizing pretty reliable. I wear it with or without a jacket (I.e. just a Shetland and shirt) and there's enough space either way.
As for colours, I went for grey herringbone and I felt I made a good choice. Works well with a scarf. Brown, tan, any Tweed, navy are all good and will not fail you.
Buy vintage for $50. No need to spend more. I regret not buying raglan sleeve coat.
An overcoat is sized to wear a suit jacket or sport coat under it. So I'm a 44R and my overcoat size would be the same. I think Colin is right about colors Brown, navy, any tweed and grey or brown herringbone are all classic. Also, don't forget camel hair. A nice camel hair overcoat is classic!
Thanks guys! Was a bit worried about the sizing. Now I can start my search.
And as with any used sport coat, suit coat or overcoat purchase, sizing is variable depending on manufacturer. So a 44R from Brooks isn't always the same as a 44R from Press. I'm sure you know that already, but it's good to reiterate.
Yeah man! I kinda look at the shoulders first of all. How long should a coat be?
^ I think it depends on what kind of coat. I don't have an overcoat, but I have a Gloverall duffle and it comes just about to my knees. An overcoat, topcoat or polo coat, I'd assume, would be a bit longer. Maybe just below the knees.
Billax looks great in this top coat. The length is perfect.
http://wearingtheivyleaguelooksince1958.blogspot.com/2015/12/look-of-week.html
Personally I think topcoats/overcoats are the most difficult thing to size. Most don't have shoulders that can be measured accurately or a tagged size so it really is a gamble. It's the same with any online purchase to a greater or lesser extent, but it seems with overcoats the gamble is at its worst. (Although if the overcoat is too big it may be possible to get it reduced a little by a good tailor.)
That's not to put anyone off though; a decent vintage overcoat is one of the greatest inventions known to mankind. And such things were so common back in the day and have become so unfashionable now that superb examples abound, often going for cheap amounts. (I only own one but really I should get another.)
In terms of colours: the possibilities are endless. Much as I dislike black for most clothing, it also works very well in an overcoat, as do the other colours already mentioned. Herringbones, checks, stripes (if they're understated) and plain colours can all look superb.
Last edited by Yuca (2016-01-03 06:42:54)
Btw check as many vintage photos as you can to check out how an overcoat is supposed to fit. There needs to be lots of room for you to be 100% comfortable with it on over a heavy jacket. A tight fit looks wrong imo.
Looks quite military that one in TGF Sancho, or maybe it's just the half belt at the back making me think that.
It's worth trawling the vintage places in person and online - there was a load in a local one to me in East London before christmas - happy to take a look next time I pass. Scored one myself last January which was made in Baltimore - just waiting for it to be cold enough to wear, still harrington temps here!
Last edited by Tomiskinky (2016-01-05 07:39:08)
The half belt works very well if you're Michael Corleone in the late 40s, but otherwise is best avoided. I don't even like Chesterfield type overcoats - I only like the type (don't know the name) that come up higher. (Which abounded back in the day.)
Last edited by Yuca (2016-01-05 08:30:47)
Last edited by Yuca (2016-01-05 08:35:05)
The old saying goes: the most important parts of your outfit are your overcoat and your shoes. There's the proof above.
Soon he'll be in polycotton shirts!!!
That of Marty's is somewhat akin to that Sears Harris Tweed I purchased about a year or so ago. Real sloucherific. Not too dressy to be worn somewhat casually.
Will have to post a photo of my grey barleycorn Harris Tweed overcoat. It looks just like Martin Milner's in the pics above.
Purchased in 1985 for $75, it had an envelope in one pocket dated back to 1966.
I never worried about the size, as I wanted to fit thick sweaters underneath, as well as sport coats and suits.
I'll echo the advice on making sure the fit is generous enough to accommodate layers. Try it on over a sweater or jacket, or both, before deciding on fit. You don't want to feel, or look, like a stuffed sausage.
Hello!
Found this old thread. The last one I bought was way to big for me, even though the shoulders fitted, so I'm after a new one now. Do you guys have any tips of brands one can go for? I don't trust some sellers on Ebay/Etsy, they say it's vtg 60s but clearly it's not.
If the shoulders fitted how was it too big? Too long in the arm, too loose in the body?
I only ask as surely these things can be altered much like a jacket so the fit is better.
I would pretty much base a search on the same details as you would a sack jacket etc, the label and cut are usually a giveaway to the era least that's what I find.