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#26 2016-01-14 15:56:53

Armchaired
Ivy I.V.
From: Old England
Posts: 7580

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers


�Careful with that axe Eugene.�

 

#27 2016-01-14 15:57:45

rmpmcdermott
Member
From: Washington, D.C.
Posts: 1073

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers


To be, or not to be; that is the bare bodkin. - Mark Twain

 

#28 2016-01-14 15:59:24

rmpmcdermott
Member
From: Washington, D.C.
Posts: 1073

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers


To be, or not to be; that is the bare bodkin. - Mark Twain

 

#29 2016-01-14 16:07:32

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers

Roll is a factor of collar length, collar rigidity, and also the button-down collar button placement.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#30 2016-01-14 16:08:11

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers

Not placket button placement.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#31 2016-01-14 16:09:45

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers

For instance, you could have a short collar that's also very rigid, but you could move the collar buttons up to force a roll.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#32 2016-01-14 16:12:45

Armchaired
Ivy I.V.
From: Old England
Posts: 7580

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers


�Careful with that axe Eugene.�

 

#33 2016-01-14 16:14:39

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers

^
Likewise


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#34 2016-01-14 16:17:13

rmpmcdermott
Member
From: Washington, D.C.
Posts: 1073

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers

Very interesting!


To be, or not to be; that is the bare bodkin. - Mark Twain

 

#35 2016-01-14 16:18:30

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers

I've actually moved all of my collar point buttons up .872 on my shirts to really hit the roll sweet spot.*





*Here Worried Man attempts to inject his own brand of stupid comedy into the discussion.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#36 2016-01-15 00:45:09

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers

Last edited by Bop (2016-01-15 01:01:33)

 

#37 2016-01-15 03:55:40

Acton_Baby
Member
From: West London
Posts: 3848

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers

Another thing to throw into the 'collar' mix.
It's not just about the collar being lined, it's wether the lining is fused or not.
Some vintage Sero's have a lined collar but it's unfused and the collar rolls beautifully.


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#38 2016-01-15 05:38:55

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 3450

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers

 

#39 2016-01-15 05:39:58

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 3450

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers

 

#40 2016-01-15 05:41:06

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 3450

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers

 

#41 2016-01-15 06:07:57

The Thin Repp
Ivy Evangelist
Posts: 1160

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers

One of these days I'll stop by Brooks to take a look, but I think David Mercer still has my money.


http://www.etsy.com/shop/NewtonStreetVintage  Classic Vintage Ivy League Clothing on Etsy.

 

#42 2016-01-15 08:24:05

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers

^
Mine too.  Just no-nonsense, quality shirts with lovely fabrics and attentive service to boot.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#43 2016-01-15 09:10:29

farrago
Ambassador Of Ivy
From: Now in SFO
Posts: 1087

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers

My late 50's Brooks OCBD has a relatively short collar. Anyhow, a taste test is in order, complete with measurements among various vintages. Poor photos as always. Look for it late next week.

(My suspicions at this point: Brooks has retained the colors that sell well. White, blue, blue stripe,pink. The stripes in aqua, yellow, and purple may be a seasonal offering. Scooping these up during a sale may be the best way to go. If these retro shirts don't sell well over the next year or two, would Brooks axe the shirt altogether? If that's the case, all roads lead to Mercer.)

A review has just been posted on Ivy Style. Your mileage may vary.

Last edited by farrago (2016-01-15 09:22:03)

 

#44 2016-01-15 09:14:17

Armchaired
Ivy I.V.
From: Old England
Posts: 7580

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers


�Careful with that axe Eugene.�

 

#45 2016-01-15 15:40:22

captainpreppy
Member
Posts: 1536

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers

 

#46 2016-01-16 02:37:14

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8543

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers

Last edited by Yuca (2016-01-16 02:38:51)


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#47 2016-01-16 03:44:27

Armchaired
Ivy I.V.
From: Old England
Posts: 7580

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers

We have all focused quite rightly on the collar but equally important for me is the fit.
What is a Madison Fit ? Does this mean the end of the traditional fit ?

No billow and I'm out .


�Careful with that axe Eugene.�

 

#48 2016-01-16 05:15:03

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 3450

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers

If I interpreted the IS article there are different fits. I suppose there is a billowing fit as many Americans need a billow... Overweight etc. Let's see what Farrago finds out... For me they are too expensive anyway. US made or not...

 

#49 2016-01-16 07:05:38

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: The Lost County of Middlesex
Posts: 7959

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers

I bought some Madison fit 'non iron' shirts in Brooks for the office because they are easy to look after and I didn't want to wear my vintage Makers in the workplace. The salesman described the Madison as being slightly less fulsome than the Traditional fit which weren't in stock at the branch where I was. There is still plenty of material and I find it necessary to execute a military tuck, but the shirt presents a cleaner profile when worn i.e. billow rather than super billow. I quite like the look of them and I like the fact that I'm not constantly fiddling about re-tucking and trying to get a neat look, although some of that may due to the non iron cloth which has a higher friction coefficient and is less prone to coming untucked, if you know what I mean.

However here's an odd thing....I compared measurements of the Madison fit shirts with some of my old Makers (6 & 7 buttoners). On a size 16/33 the Makers measured between 23"- 24" across the waist, a couple of old Brooks shirts that were labelled 'Traditional Fit' were 23.5". The Madisons came out at a respectable 24" which surprised me because, as stated above, I find them quite different to wear.

Anyway don't let the Madison fit put you off if you feel you would like to splash out on one of these shirts.


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

Achievements: banned from the Ivy Style FB Group

 

#50 2016-01-16 10:33:45

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8543

Re: New made in USA OCBD from Brooks Brothers


some sort of banal legitimacy

 
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