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#1 2016-12-04 03:28:12

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1527

Rebulding my wardrobe almost from scratch

Reasons: Too many items of inferior quality (e.g. PRL shirts made in Childlabouristan, pre-2014 H&K shirts with excess fabric on cuffs which are difficult to iron), wrong fit or style (H&K shirts with collar in the wrong shape/size, turd coloured C&Js on wrong last) or generally questionable (cotton sweaters - too hot for cotton weather, not warm enough for sweater weather).

So, the following items currently are the small centrepiece of my to-be-rebuild wardrobe:

2 pairs of C&J's handgrade Audley black cap-toe oxfords
1 pair Alden #8 cordo trad loafers
1 pair Alden #8 cordo Monks (under revision)
1 pair C&J's handgrade Belgrave chestnut  cap-toe oxfords with brogue detailing on cap-toe
1 pair C&J's handgrade Audley cap-toe oxfords in burnished tobacco (under revision)
2 pair Tod's suede boots/loafers

5 Cordings suits in navy and grey, traditional style/fit (even 3 button SB) (one or two are shiny and need to be replaced)
5 H&K shirts, new style (post 2014) in better quality and with larger collars (classic, not spread), in plain blue/white/pink, double cuff
3 H&K shirts, new style (post 2014) in better quality and with larger collars (classic, not spread), in plain and bengal blue/white/pink, button cuff

30 Hermes ties in various shades of blues and reds
6 Hermes ties in lime green, orange and pink

3 round neck (V neck makes me look like a criminal) Cordings sweaters in Lamswool, tartan green, heather green and burgundy (green and burgundy make me look like a christmas tree which suits my eyes and hair)

1 Canali travel blazer
3 Cordings tweed jackets with subtle overchecks
2 PRL trousers in navy - one chino one corduroy, both in slim fit
1 Cordings chino in creme

1 Cordings covert coat in fawn
1 tweed Purdey shooting jacket

Lots of Pantherella long stockings in navy (cotton and wool)

One very fine watch (PP complication)

One yellowish canvas bag (Chapman folio http://www.chapmanbags.com/men/folio.html)
One black briefcase (Pickett http://www.pickett.co.uk/attache-case-6963.html)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Stuff that has to go/is under revision:
anything in Barbie pink or other shades too bright - clashes with my skin
Shoes which are too pointy, the tips bend upwards and I look like Krusty the Klown
Shoes in "burnished tobacco" and other turd-coloured hues - BROWN SHOES/DONT MAKE IT
Worn/frayed/shiny stuff  -I dont believe in the genteel end-on-end shirt with shabby edges
Cashmere - it doesnt work on me and my moths love it
Any cufflinks which I cant fit easily into the cuffs (square Hermes ones are the worst, or anything with a chain link)
Monks - I am not really a one-two-buckle-my-shoe guy

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

What I need to buy:

- two additional pairs of black "business" shoes (they really get used a lot and have to take quite a beating, every penny is well spent), maybe one with minor brogue detailing (maybe another Belgrave?)
- a few more shirts for daily rotation - need to make up my mind whether H&K or T&A.
- 2 button cuff casual shirts - only T&A will do because they have the right classic patterns and the button cuffs fit over my watch (H&K too tight).
- one pair of slighly wider fitting brogues with single leather sole/commando in burgundy (C&J Finsbury made to order?)
- Some sort of lightweight casual coat as in Barbours's unlined quilted nylon ones.
- A new umbrella - SAB non-whangee one. I have now lost all my umbrellas, time for a new one. But I am not John Steed.
- A second watch, simpler and under the radar - either a vintage (plexiglas) Explorer I (Ref 1016) or a white gold 5196 Calatrava
- MAYBE one funky travel bag ( I have a nice larger Chapman Flight Suitcase already ) - maybe a Goyard keepall in a subtle colour? Or maybe not.
- gradually replace the fragile regular silk Hermes ties by the "heavy twill" ones which are much more robust, gradually replace the ones with too complicated patters with more classic ones (geometric/abstract)
- Still, I am looking for that one Ferragamo tie in a pale lemon-ish hue with butterflies, to be worn on a sunny spring morning at breakfast at the In and Out, overlooking St James's square.

What else?

Last edited by Beestonplace (2016-12-04 04:16:48)

 

#2 2016-12-04 10:35:58

4F Hepcat
THE Cat
Posts: 14333

Re: Rebulding my wardrobe almost from scratch

Beestonplace wrote:

Shoes in "burnished tobacco" and other turd-coloured hues - BROWN SHOES/DONT MAKE IT

Before you get rid: get a very dark brown shoe cream and work in quite liberally and then again next week and the week after. If you're lucky, you'll get a deep antique grandfather's tropical wood desk patina. Tan and browns work, but only so long as they are pathway to higher things.


Vibe-Rations in Spectra-Sonic-Sound

 

#3 2016-12-04 10:57:10

Johnny's Lobbster
Member
Posts: 59

Re: Rebulding my wardrobe almost from scratch

Have you considered going bespoke? Quite a few Italian tailors seem to have put London on their schedule, might be worth looking at.

Take a look at the Arden by C&J, just like the Belgrave but from their benchgrade line.

Also forget about SAB, go to Smith or Fox. Just the same but cheaper. They all source their stuff from Italy.

 

#4 2016-12-04 11:13:47

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1527

Re: Rebulding my wardrobe almost from scratch

Benchgrade seems to have a slightly tighter fit, 337 handgrade last is almost like bespoke for me.

Fox - true, my 3 last ones were from Fox.

Bespoke - well. RTW works for me with only slight alterations. My suits get a lot of travel wear, not sure whether worth the effort.

 

#5 2016-12-04 12:17:02

Johnny's Lobbster
Member
Posts: 59

Re: Rebulding my wardrobe almost from scratch

I see. Maybe consider buying two or more pairs. C&J seem to be phasing out the 337 last.

 

#6 2016-12-04 12:36:48

4F Hepcat
THE Cat
Posts: 14333

Re: Rebulding my wardrobe almost from scratch

Are they actually phasing out the 337 last?


Vibe-Rations in Spectra-Sonic-Sound

 

#7 2016-12-04 12:57:34

Johnny's Lobbster
Member
Posts: 59

Re: Rebulding my wardrobe almost from scratch

I got the impression. They've reduced their offerings on it to the Audley, Belgrave and a monk. The Clifford style was reintroduced on another last.

 

#8 2016-12-04 12:58:38

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1527

Re: Rebulding my wardrobe almost from scratch

Reliable sources or it didnt happen ,

 

#9 2017-01-08 05:50:51

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1527

Re: Rebulding my wardrobe almost from scratch

I am now in the fin al stages of rebulding my wardrobe

 

#10 2017-01-09 06:49:50

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9125

Re: Rebulding my wardrobe almost from scratch

Beestonplace wrote:

I am now in the fin al stages of rebulding my wardrobe

Did you really buy all those Hermes ties?


Le costume fait sur mesure en tissue Fresco est le préféré des ploucs!
Facebook: FNB Dandy  Twitter: @DevilsIslandFNB Instagram: fnbdandy

 

#11 2017-01-09 11:52:57

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1527

Re: Rebulding my wardrobe almost from scratch

Film Noir Buff wrote:

Beestonplace wrote:

I am now in the fin al stages of rebulding my wardrobe

Did you really buy all those Hermes ties?

Yes?

 

#12 2018-02-08 13:38:33

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1527

Re: Rebulding my wardrobe almost from scratch

Update:

3 Harvie & Hudson suits, in navy and charcoal, 2 button single breasted. 2 old faithfuls in navy worsted by Cordings.

Got rid of all the flimsy H&K shirts. My workhorse shirts are now:

4 white, of which 3 poplin and 1 diagonal fine twill; 1 herringbone will arrive tomorrow
5 blue, of which 2 light end-on-end, 2 ice blue and 1 two-fold 200 light blue
3 bengal, in light, medium, royal blue on white
1 fine Bengal blue on white
--- all T&A double cuff, regular fit, classic collar.

20 Hermes ties in various shades of red (with white or grey geometrical patterns, no more whimsical animals) and blue.

3 C&J Audley handgrade cap-toe oxfords, nicely worn in but kept in top shape by specialist cobbler

1 Pair of dumbbell sterling cufflinks from Sir Winston Churchills Flem spoon.

1 Patek complication in WG






Thats it.


Off-duty:

Various 3 button cuffs in bengals and small ginghams (blue/white) from T&A
Various jumpers from Cordings and T&A in lamdswool and cashmere, in various shades of red and green

1 Canali travel blazer unlined in navy
1 Cordings tweed jackets in green twill
2 PRL trousers in navy - one chino one corduroy, both in slim fit
1 Cordings chino in creme

1 Cordings covert coat in fawn
1 tweed Purdey shooting jacket
1 Barbour navy quilted nylon Liddlesdale jacket

Lots of Pantherella long stockings in navy (cotton and wool)

One yellowish canvas bag (Chapman folio http://www.chapmanbags.com/men/folio.html)

one SAB umbrella in black with whangee handle

Last edited by Beestonplace (2018-02-08 13:59:28)

 

#13 2018-02-08 13:56:14

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1527

Re: Rebulding my wardrobe almost from scratch

1 pair Alden #8 cordo trad loafers
1 pair Alden #8 cordo Monks (under revision)
1 pair C&J's handgrade Belgrave chestnut  cap-toe oxfords with brogue detailing on cap-toe
1 pair C&J's handgrade Audley cap-toe oxfords in burnished tobacco
1 pair C&J bench grade Finsbury in dark brown

No more Tods

 

#14 2018-02-08 14:10:16

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: Staines-upon-Thames, Middlesex
Posts: 6263

Re: Rebulding my wardrobe almost from scratch

Good work Beeston, sounds like a pretty comprehensive review.


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

 

#15 2018-02-08 14:44:48

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: The Great White North
Posts: 2031

Re: Rebulding my wardrobe almost from scratch

Love that Chapman bag...


"I happen to believe that the 1954 decision was right. But my belief does not matter; it is now the law. Some of you may believe the decision was wrong. That does not matter - it is the law. And we both respect the law." - RFK

 

#16 2018-02-08 14:46:25

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1527

Re: Rebulding my wardrobe almost from scratch

It was hard work to admit that I made many malpurchases...

 

#17 2018-02-08 14:47:53

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1527

Re: Rebulding my wardrobe almost from scratch

The chapman bag is fantastic. And believe it or not, the yellow canvas is acctually quite robust and doesn't attract dirt as much as I thought.

 

#18 2018-02-08 15:52:46

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: Staines-upon-Thames, Middlesex
Posts: 6263

Re: Rebulding my wardrobe almost from scratch

Good to hear the criminal v-necks have gone, that bit made me laugh.


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

 

#19 2018-02-09 07:07:31

Babbling Brooks
Member
Posts: 399

Re: Rebulding my wardrobe almost from scratch

What a beautiful mind you have Beeston


Dirty bucks I want you, dirty bucks I need you, woh-oh.

 

#20 2018-02-10 05:26:56

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1527

Re: Rebulding my wardrobe almost from scratch

why do you think so ,

 

#21 2018-02-10 05:28:14

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1527

Re: Rebulding my wardrobe almost from scratch

Actually I am thinking about re-adding them to my wardrobe as they show more of the shirt that a crew neck ,

woofboxer wrote:

Good to hear the criminal v-necks have gone, that bit made me laugh.

 

#22 2018-02-10 07:09:30

Babbling Brooks
Member
Posts: 399

Re: Rebulding my wardrobe almost from scratch

Beestonplace wrote:

why do you think so ,

If FNB was a little more like you and you were a little bit like FNB youd have something like perfection.


Dirty bucks I want you, dirty bucks I need you, woh-oh.

 

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