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#26 2017-10-18 23:50:53

Horace
Member
Posts: 6216

Re: J.Press Website

So much good stuff to reply to. 

Just two strands I'd like to comment on (for now).

1) One of the things Berkeley:  gets at with O'Connell I was thinking for Press.  Why not just have Press continue old school.  There are a lot of business where you aren't going to get rich but you're going to do ok (on your own terms).  I've been talking to a lot of guys about this lately.  Sometimes it feels like your just a fucking employment agency (basically making what you need to make to pay employees and keep the the thing going) with some modest growth.  This doesn't have to be a charity thing.  But I don't see huge growth for Press.  Maybe I'm wrong.  Again, costs have gone up esp in NY and DC and New Haven real estate.  Don't know if they own the building in New Haven (they probably should have when they could in Connecticut but...).

2)  Prep schools:  that whole culture is dead.  Or in last gasps (which is being charitable).  With democratizing of education and a lot of newly rich coming in and wanting this for their children, no one aspires to that old WASP look like they used to.  It used to be they'd assume the look.  Don't think that's happening.  DC may still be a pipeline from Cambridge and New Haven, but it's probably right that they're dressing like Zuckerberg now.

3) O'Connells was one of those "Regional" Andover Shops.  Buffalo before the evacuation of industry had a ruling caste of professionals.  That's one in a lot of cities.  Guys who would be sent away to college and come back and run things.  And it didn't even have to be an Ivy League place.  They'd go to Indiana or Iowa or Michigan or wherever and the look would be there.  And be wherever they ended up (Buffalo, Cleveland, Tulsa, etc).

A lot of other interesting changes to be talked about some other time.  Like sales.  I'm curious how many guys go into Brooks when there isn't a sale.  When there is, I'll buy a half dozen new white shirts or a dozen boxers or whatever.

I haven't bought from O'Connell in a long time, but hell, they had all that dead stock just sitting there.  Probably thought it was worthless.  And then the internet comes along.

As for Brick and Mortar and death -- what's interesting to me is all these high end niche web guys who are starting to branch out into the stores.  You have to hit the right demographic I guess, but they seem to want to have a physical presence.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#27 2017-10-19 01:58:30

MCM Geography Teacher
Member
Posts: 413

Re: J.Press Website

Horace wrote:

but they seem to want to have a physical presence.

Romantic fools


'Bill Murden becomes the hero of the day as he rescues a confused duck.'

 

#28 2017-10-19 07:25:13

Coolidge
Member
Posts: 1192

Re: J.Press Website

Horace wrote:

So much good stuff to reply to. 


As for Brick and Mortar and death -- what's interesting to me is all these high end niche web guys who are starting to branch out into the stores.  You have to hit the right demographic I guess, but they seem to want to have a physical presence.

That's exactly it...Vineyard Vines is an example, and you will see others if you go to any high end demographic event--for example, the Far Hills Race Meeting ("The Hunt") or certain Polo matches, where the niche retailer will have set up a trailer...if they succeed, a year later there will be a pop-up on Lexington Avenue near Grand Central...and then, if they really make it, a brick and mortar will in fact open in midtown or in SoHo or in Boston or maybe Charleston.

 

#29 2017-10-19 08:38:54

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 11014

Re: J.Press Website

As long as lawyers still wear suits and ties to court there will always be a need for a J. Press.  I hope.

The upside is that even though it's not as mighty and as quietly self-assured as it used to be, having been rocked by a succession of calamities, J. Press still delivers some usable goods, which is gratifying because I support the place and want to see it do well, it's a draw of sorts for the town of New Haven.

Over the years I have acquired quite a lot of J. Press clothing, still have tons and have worn out four times as much again, these days I still have many J. Press ties, shirts, trousers, walk shorts, scarves, socks, sweaters, and belts, I wear them all the time, and I used to have J. Press sport coats, suits, and blazers, but I outgrew them and moved on to having them made for me.

But if I had to kit myself out at J. Press today, moving fast because things sell out quickly in my size, I could do it and it would be fine, there's more than enough decent stuff there to make a go of it, a reasonably good but narrow selection of Pressidential and Presstige suits, Pressclusive sport coats, and patch-pocket blazers.

In particular, this fall I would like two emblematic ties; a knit bobcap; a pair of boxers; a Shaggy Dog sweater; a pair of marled Fair Isle socks; and maybe a few other bits and bobs.

There are enough acceptable suits, sport coats, blazers, shirts, and ties there to outfit a young lawyer well.

The outerwear offerings are a bit skimpy, that section truly needs improvement, the Barbour stuff should be secondary, not the focus of the collection.

The shawl-collar tuxedo has not been offered for years at any of my places, that needs to be remedied, Press really should drop the sad notch lapel tuxedo.


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#30 2017-10-19 09:34:34

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: Rick's Cafe Americain
Posts: 1370

Re: J.Press Website

stanshall wrote:

The shawl-collar tuxedo has not been offered for years at any of my places, that needs to be remedied, Press really should drop the sad notch lapel tuxedo.

Weird, had a dream last night about tuxedos... I used to have a beautiful vintage shawl-collar tux jacket from Saks Fifth Avenue, no longer fits me sadly...


Bertie: "What do ties matter, Jeeves, at a time like this?"
Jeeves: "There is no time, sir, at which ties do not matter."

Blog: https://rehearsingtheblues.blogspot.com/

 

#31 2017-10-19 15:35:12

GIZhou007
Ivy Original.
From: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 685

Re: J.Press Website

Japnese J Press, when I was in Japan clothes shopping,  is often grouped with other up market stores inside a larger store.  The quality and cut were impressive, very old school, and priced fcompetiively or the market.  Japan is a very conservative society so suits rule.  Even the low end of the market is better finished than many high end stores in the United States and Australia, with better material.

 

#32 2017-10-19 19:54:05

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: Rick's Cafe Americain
Posts: 1370

Re: J.Press Website

GIZhou007 wrote:

Japnese J Press, when I was in Japan clothes shopping,  is often grouped with other up market stores inside a larger store.  The quality and cut were impressive, very old school, and priced fcompetiively or the market.  Japan is a very conservative society so suits rule.  Even the low end of the market is better finished than many high end stores in the United States and Australia, with better material.

Great info, thanks for this. The level of engagement Japanese consumers can bring to the things they love impresses me so much. I don't want to get anywhere near any cultural reasoning, because I'm not qualified to do that accurately, but my impression is that you can find that in quite a few areas there. I know for a fact that jazz is still very big there, and that Japanese consumers really care about the records they buy. When Michael Cuscuna started reissuing Blue Notes in the 1980s, the Japanese market was the first market they went to, and they did amazingly well there. Even now, there are special Japanese editions of new jazz records that have extra tracks we don't get in the US. Just because in Japan they care more. So I'm not surprised by your experience at all.

I'm just not looking forward to paying the shipping from Japan once it becomes the only place to get real Ivy wear. But hopefully by then I'll be living that stanshall life and getting everything made...


Bertie: "What do ties matter, Jeeves, at a time like this?"
Jeeves: "There is no time, sir, at which ties do not matter."

Blog: https://rehearsingtheblues.blogspot.com/

 

#33 2017-10-19 22:56:25

Babbling Brooks
Member
Posts: 199

Re: J.Press Website

The word to focus on there is care..... caring about something makes all the difference in how the whole process is executed and then how it's received by the consumer

 

#34 2017-10-21 15:50:41

mhalat
Member
Posts: 43

Re: J.Press Website

Berkeley_Breathes wrote:

GIZhou007 wrote:

Japnese J Press, when I was in Japan clothes shopping,  is often grouped with other up market stores inside a larger store.  The quality and cut were impressive, very old school, and priced fcompetiively or the market.  Japan is a very conservative society so suits rule.  Even the low end of the market is better finished than many high end stores in the United States and Australia, with better material.

Great info, thanks for this. The level of engagement Japanese consumers can bring to the things they love impresses me so much. I don't want to get anywhere near any cultural reasoning, because I'm not qualified to do that accurately, but my impression is that you can find that in quite a few areas there. I know for a fact that jazz is still very big there, and that Japanese consumers really care about the records they buy. When Michael Cuscuna started reissuing Blue Notes in the 1980s, the Japanese market was the first market they went to, and they did amazingly well there. Even now, there are special Japanese editions of new jazz records that have extra tracks we don't get in the US. Just because in Japan they care more. So I'm not surprised by your experience at all.

I'm just not looking forward to paying the shipping from Japan once it becomes the only place to get real Ivy wear. But hopefully by then I'll be living that stanshall life and getting everything made...

The thing I would add, Beeb, is that there is not just a cultural factor at play here, but a geographical one too. The fact is that Japan has +/- 33% the population of the USA, densely crammed in a really small area. This is exaggerated further by the fact that much of it is particularly concentrated in 2-3 relatively nearby metros. This allows for companies to build and distribute highly limited or special goods at a reasonable expense. I truly believe it's one of the world's best countries in which to have a hobby.

 

#35 2017-10-21 17:08:12

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: Rick's Cafe Americain
Posts: 1370

Re: J.Press Website

mhalat wrote:

The thing I would add, Beeb, is that there is not just a cultural factor at play here, but a geographical one too. The fact is that Japan has +/- 33% the population of the USA, densely crammed in a really small area. This is exaggerated further by the fact that much of it is particularly concentrated in 2-3 relatively nearby metros. This allows for companies to build and distribute highly limited or special goods at a reasonable expense. I truly believe it's one of the world's best countries in which to have a hobby.

Is this true? Not the stats, but the underlying economics. I live in New York City. Is it not economically viable for J. Press in New York City to have high-quality goods and ship them to me easily? Isn't that the reason for the J. Press label?

https://pbs.twimg.com/profile_images/476072262081077249/G-B58-aX_400x400.png

They put themselves in each major consumer hub so that they could do exactly what you're describing. This is also the regional shop (Andover, Buffalo etc.) idea discussed above.

Of course, it isn't a question of J. Press having a suit in NYC and sending it to me, also in NYC, at a reasonable cost - as anyone who's watched the route their package takes on a USPS tracking page knows. Now, as with Brooks Brothers, the shops are just P.O. boxes for whatever H.Q. wants to send out from wherever the warehouse is. They're no different from an outlet store in everything but the prices.

So I don't think it's exactly a geographical reason, though I do agree with what you're saying - I just think it's still cultural, on the companies' part rather than the consumers'.


Bertie: "What do ties matter, Jeeves, at a time like this?"
Jeeves: "There is no time, sir, at which ties do not matter."

Blog: https://rehearsingtheblues.blogspot.com/

 

#36 2017-10-21 20:19:32

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 11014

Re: J.Press Website

Berkeley_Breathes wrote:

I'm just not looking forward to paying the shipping from Japan once it becomes the only place to get real Ivy wear. But hopefully by then I'll be living that stanshall life and getting everything made...

with perfect timing I recently received an email informing me I have a $25 credit at J. Press, from which old transaction I have no idea, but I do know that I'll be getting a pair of socks (UK) or a knit bobcap (UK) or a pair of boxer shorts (USA) from the old place this week ....

there are a few things I wouldn't mind accessorizing with among the current fall/winter J. Press offerings and $25 gets me there on a few of the things I want .....

so, who the bobcap fits, let them wear it?

or do I go with the marled Fair Isle socks?  or the shadow ribbed socks?  the boxers?  I really do like the squirrel emblematic tie but I have enough ties to wear a different one every day for the rest of my life and at $79 I'd still have to pay $54 cash for it, and I can't even pretend that I need a tie with a squirrel on it even though it really would please me to have it even if it would basically just be hanging around on the tie rack keeping the hippo, monkey, kangaroo, grasshopper, and baseball player ties company. 

probably going with socks or the knit cap ... the socks will get more use than the knit bobcap, it's only chilly enough for a bobcap like five times a year down here, but it's a very nice cap, and there is actually a miniscule chance I'll ever willingly go somewhere cold again .....

any thoughts on the best use for $25 credit at J. Press?


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#37 2017-10-21 20:51:54

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: Rick's Cafe Americain
Posts: 1370

Re: J.Press Website

stanshall wrote:

Berkeley_Breathes wrote:

I'm just not looking forward to paying the shipping from Japan once it becomes the only place to get real Ivy wear. But hopefully by then I'll be living that stanshall life and getting everything made...

with perfect timing I recently received an email informing me I have a $25 credit at J. Press, from which old transaction I have no idea, but I do know that I'll be getting a pair of socks (UK) or a knit bobcap (UK) or a pair of boxer shorts (USA) from the old place this week ....

there are a few things I wouldn't mind accessorizing with among the current fall/winter J. Press offerings and $25 gets me there on a few of the things I want .....

so, who the bobcap fits, let them wear it?

or do I go with the marled Fair Isle socks?  or the shadow ribbed socks?  the boxers?  I really do like the squirrel emblematic tie but I have enough ties to wear a different one every day for the rest of my life and at $79 I'd still have to pay $54 cash for it, and I can't even pretend that I need a tie with a squirrel on it even though it really would please me to have it even if it would basically just be hanging around on the tie rack keeping the hippo, monkey, kangaroo, grasshopper, and baseball player ties company. 

probably going with socks or the knit cap ... the socks will get more use than the knit bobcap, it's only chilly enough for a bobcap like five times a year down here, but it's a very nice cap, and there is actually a miniscule chance I'll ever willingly go somewhere cold again .....

any thoughts on the best use for $25 credit at J. Press?

Practicality: socks
Pure satisfaction and general well-being: cap


Bertie: "What do ties matter, Jeeves, at a time like this?"
Jeeves: "There is no time, sir, at which ties do not matter."

Blog: https://rehearsingtheblues.blogspot.com/

 

#38 2017-10-21 22:14:13

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 11014

Re: J.Press Website

Berkeley_Breathes wrote:

stanshall wrote:

Berkeley_Breathes wrote:

I'm just not looking forward to paying the shipping from Japan once it becomes the only place to get real Ivy wear. But hopefully by then I'll be living that stanshall life and getting everything made...

with perfect timing I recently received an email informing me I have a $25 credit at J. Press, from which old transaction I have no idea, but I do know that I'll be getting a pair of socks (UK) or a knit bobcap (UK) or a pair of boxer shorts (USA) from the old place this week ....

****

probably going with socks or the knit cap ... the socks will get more use than the knit bobcap, it's only chilly enough for a bobcap like five times a year down here, but it's a very nice cap, and there is actually a miniscule chance I'll ever willingly go somewhere cold again .....

any thoughts on the best use for $25 credit at J. Press?

Practicality: socks
Pure satisfaction and general well-being: cap

I like the way you think, I need some pure satisfaction for my general well-being and that means bobcap.


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#39 2017-10-22 03:48:56

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: Staines-upon-Thames, Middlesex
Posts: 6070

Re: J.Press Website

stanshall wrote:

I can't even pretend that I need a tie with a squirrel on it even though it really would please me to have it even if it would basically just be hanging around on the tie rack keeping the hippo, monkey, kangaroo, grasshopper, and baseball player ties company.

Classic Stanshall ... lol !!

A collection of good ties is like art and something to be savoured. If you wear a tie regularly, like I do at the moment, then the collection is pored over, admired and enjoyed several days a week. I often pick out a tie I haven't worn for a while then build an outfit around it ... which is easy if you are just wearing a grey suit and a plain button down shirt! However if you don't wear a tie much then the objects'd'art just hang there in the darkness, forgotten and unseen which is sad in a way.


As to the serious business of what to do with $25 - well I like the look of the Donegal tweed pork pie hat thats on offer this year, but those sort of hats you've really got to go into the shop and try on to see if they fit and suit you. How about putting it toward one of these?


https://s1.postimg.org/6min8nrdov/IMG_1321.jpg


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

 

#40 2017-10-22 07:16:24

Patrick
Member
Posts: 2224

Re: J.Press Website

Never mind any of this. Soon we will have SmartClothes, self-wearing. Just click the app on your phone and the day's appropriate wardrobe materializes on your body. This will free up so much time for taking a photo of your breakfast and posting it on social media!

 

#41 2017-10-22 11:11:38

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 11014

Re: J.Press Website

woofboxer wrote:

stanshall wrote:

I can't even pretend that I need a tie with a squirrel on it even though it really would please me to have it even if it would basically just be hanging around on the tie rack keeping the hippo, monkey, kangaroo, grasshopper, and baseball player ties company.

Classic Stanshall ... lol !!

A collection of good ties is like art and something to be savoured. If you wear a tie regularly, like I do at the moment, then the collection is pored over, admired and enjoyed several days a week. I often pick out a tie I haven't worn for a while then build an outfit around it ... which is easy if you are just wearing a grey suit and a plain button down shirt! However if you don't wear a tie much then the objects'd'art just hang there in the darkness, forgotten and unseen which is sad in a way.

As to the serious business of what to do with $25 - well I like the look of the Donegal tweed pork pie hat thats on offer this year, but those sort of hats you've really got to go into the shop and try on to see if they fit and suit you. How about putting it toward one of these?

https://s1.postimg.org/6min8nrdov/IMG_1321.jpg

good points Woof, I don't want to just have the tie purely to be able to say I have a squirrel tie from J. Press, my other emblematics were very much in the rotation back in the day and saw frequent use, they can be proud of themselves, they served .....

the cashmere stitch cap is tasty too, but a bit expensive

the squirrel tie is the most unusual thing I'm looking at, and I really have wanted it for a couple of years, but one of the colors the bobcaps are offered in is very irresistible to me ....

I'm not leaving the house until I make up my mind ......


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#42 2017-10-22 12:32:00

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: Staines-upon-Thames, Middlesex
Posts: 6070

Re: J.Press Website

Patrick wrote:

Never mind any of this. Soon we will have SmartClothes, self-wearing. Just click the app on your phone and the day's appropriate wardrobe materializes on your body.

Yeh and when the Matrix crashes we will all find that we are naked!


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

 

#43 2017-11-11 10:22:51

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: Rick's Cafe Americain
Posts: 1370

Re: J.Press Website

From Heavy Tweed Jacket on Tumblr:

A new J. Press brochure is always pretty good news. After several years with absolutely no catalogs for the U.S. market, J. Press has issued a new F&W brochure. However, unlike previous brochures that could be used for ordering, the current brochure encourages readers to visit the website for the full lineup of clothing and accessories. In addition to listing J. Press retail locations, the brochure also includes the architectís introduction for the new New York location. Unlike previous brochures, however, the current brochure has stayed away from using any of J. Pressís names like Pressidential, Presstige, Pressclusive. Further, no sources for fabrics are given (such as Harris Tweed, Robert Noble, Moon & Sons, Donegal, etc.). This is unfortunate because given the prices, this kind of information could help J. Press further convey that hard to market sense of authenticity and tradition that is their market niche. Over recent years J. Press Japan has done a better job of producing brochures and catalogs that do this sort of advertising for the Japan market. Still, itís great to see a new J. Press catalog for the U.S. market.


Bertie: "What do ties matter, Jeeves, at a time like this?"
Jeeves: "There is no time, sir, at which ties do not matter."

Blog: https://rehearsingtheblues.blogspot.com/

 

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