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#1 2017-10-29 20:09:23

Berkeley_Breathes
Member
From: Crabapple Cove, ME
Posts: 4519

Club collar?

Anyone know a good traditional fit club collar shirt? Solid collar preferable, I'm not Gordon Gekko...

J. Press only offers theirs in blue with white collar, and in slim fit to boot... Nothing at Brooks...


"The only comment a gentleman’s outfit should generate is that he is properly dressed for the occasion" - Calvin Trillin

 

#2 2017-11-01 11:56:01

Coolidge
Member
Posts: 1192

Re: Club collar?

I buy mine from Brooks custom fit.  They cost about the same as the non-non-iron oxford cloth button downs, and in the past when I have ordered 3 there has been a discount. I have plain white ones and also some contrast collars (pink with white collar--that proper, classic Brooks darker pink and not the lighter one they seem to be using on the non-irons), blue university stripe with white collar).  I get the forward point tennis collars I want from them, too.  I'm at the point now where I know what I want, so I just go to someone who is willing to do it.

Unless one company or the other just happens to release one that year, I think Brooks custom is your best option.  EDIT:  I get mine in the Madison fit, which is pretty traditional although not balloon-y.


As for Gekko, he wore spreads, on the wider end of the Ainsley, in my recollection, not club collars.  But, I always felt his shirts and suspenders were the least objectionable thing about him.  So long as you don't also sport the "Gekko" haircut and imitate the character's movie lines, I think you can avoid any undue comparison if you do go the contrast collar route.

Last edited by Coolidge (2017-11-01 11:58:57)

 

#3 2017-11-01 12:06:14

Berkeley_Breathes
Member
From: Crabapple Cove, ME
Posts: 4519

Re: Club collar?


"The only comment a gentleman’s outfit should generate is that he is properly dressed for the occasion" - Calvin Trillin

 

#4 2017-11-01 12:16:32

Coolidge
Member
Posts: 1192

Re: Club collar?

You're welcome. 

The one I had on in "What are you wearing" two weeks back is one of the Brooks custom ones.  That one is in Oxford cloth but I have also had them in broadcloth.

It was about a 3 week turnaround for me on the order, maybe a little under.  Once you do choose the fabric, your color options may be limited somewhat (certain things aren't available in oxford cloth--for example, I wanted a pink university stripe with a contrast white club collar, no dice--the pink is fine but I wanted a little bit more restrained).  Each shirt comes in the classic blue and gold box of yore.

 

#5 2017-11-01 12:25:37

Berkeley_Breathes
Member
From: Crabapple Cove, ME
Posts: 4519

Re: Club collar?


"The only comment a gentleman’s outfit should generate is that he is properly dressed for the occasion" - Calvin Trillin

 

#6 2017-11-01 12:29:02

Berkeley_Breathes
Member
From: Crabapple Cove, ME
Posts: 4519

Re: Club collar?

Also, check out the linings on Dean and Frank's suits. Awesome.


"The only comment a gentleman’s outfit should generate is that he is properly dressed for the occasion" - Calvin Trillin

 

#7 2017-11-01 12:32:09

Coolidge
Member
Posts: 1192

Re: Club collar?

Sinatra had it down.  Also wore on the cover of the 1956 Capitol LP "A Swingin' Affair!"

Brooks now (they did not with a previous order about 8-9 years ago) supplies "club"-specific shortened collar stays for the shirts when they send them to you.  I find these work well (I am wearing them, unseen obviously, in that picture), but it doesn't preclude using the collar bar (I still use the slide on kind).  It is a nice alternative if you don't want to wear the bar/pin though.

 

#8 2017-11-01 14:58:33

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: Club collar?


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#9 2017-11-01 16:31:05

Berkeley_Breathes
Member
From: Crabapple Cove, ME
Posts: 4519

Re: Club collar?


"The only comment a gentleman’s outfit should generate is that he is properly dressed for the occasion" - Calvin Trillin

 

#10 2017-11-01 16:37:30

Coolidge
Member
Posts: 1192

Re: Club collar?

I do see club collars out and about in New York.  Not everywhere or widespread but I've seen adult businessmen wearing them.  Most noticeable on some more unusual colors (last week I saw a guy with a lavender shirt with club collar, he also had a bit of an overwrought pocket square going, in my view).

I think it still works. Maybe more without the pin/bar than with. It's less Roger Sterling/Mad Men extra if you dispense with super skinny ties and a fedora. Which is not too hard to do if you have a job in Midtown and don't want to be made fun of.

Honestly it's the tennis/point collar I've seen the least of around here...the Ainsley and the wide spread are very in, and that narrow forward point not so much. I almost never see them and Brooks had very few last time I was in to 346 in September.  It's odd because, really, to whatever extent you believe the club collar is distinctive or anachronistic, the tennis/forward point should be considered far less so.

 

#11 2017-11-01 17:05:17

Berkeley_Breathes
Member
From: Crabapple Cove, ME
Posts: 4519

Re: Club collar?


"The only comment a gentleman’s outfit should generate is that he is properly dressed for the occasion" - Calvin Trillin

 

#12 2017-11-01 17:22:51

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: Club collar?


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#13 2017-11-02 08:47:43

Coolidge
Member
Posts: 1192

Re: Club collar?

 

#14 2017-11-02 11:22:59

Tommy
Member
Posts: 1753

Re: Club collar?

I, probably like most on here, found the Mad Men Wardrobe department really frustrating. It seemed to be a mixture of good vintage and modern suits no doubt recommended by 'experts' at Brooks Brothers (am I right in remembering they supplied some of the suits)?

Don and roger, would of arguably been too old to be wearing a late 50s/ early 60s Ivy Look, but there were several supposed Ivy Leaguers, all wearing an awful mish mash and tiny collars on the rare button downs they did wear.

Don is wearing cuffs above and often was. He also wore some (no doubt current) split toes in addition to regular cap toes. Period photos show his 'uniform' is not that far off and obviously part of this is to show how he gets sartorially left behind as styles 'evolved' in the 1960s. Roger wears a lot of great 1960s 3 Pieces, with some darted and waisted crap thrown in. He also seems to continuously wearing the same shoes. He's supposed to be a millionaire before the series even starts? He's vain, he would have had maybe nearly as many shoes as suits surely!

In terms of modern wear of the Ivy Look, I have 2 fairly neutral suits. One is slimmer lapled and usually worn with slim ties, the other a classic width and usually worn with the 3-3.5" Ties. Both are just about subtle enough I can get away without people picking up they are vintage (unlike a previous suit I had which was very obviously a vintage piece.

I've just realised that looking at Roger's 3 Piece in the collar bar/ lunch photo he might actually be wearing the same J-Press Grey Flannel that I own?

 

#15 2017-11-02 11:34:09

Tommy
Member
Posts: 1753

Re: Club collar?

Sorry if Berkley is worried about going off topic... I've started to drive someway towards the next town...

I've gotta say this topic has inspired me to look further into getting a club collar, maybe a pinned through one. I've already got a Spearpoint, which is usually which is usually worn with a clip on tie bar.

 

#16 2017-11-02 11:36:31

Berkeley_Breathes
Member
From: Crabapple Cove, ME
Posts: 4519

Re: Club collar?


"The only comment a gentleman’s outfit should generate is that he is properly dressed for the occasion" - Calvin Trillin

 

#17 2017-11-02 12:39:52

Coolidge
Member
Posts: 1192

Re: Club collar?

 

#18 2017-11-02 13:31:02

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: Club collar?


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#19 2017-11-02 14:36:33

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: Club collar?


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#20 2017-11-02 14:54:10

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: Club collar?


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#21 2017-11-02 15:04:27

Berkeley_Breathes
Member
From: Crabapple Cove, ME
Posts: 4519

Re: Club collar?


"The only comment a gentleman’s outfit should generate is that he is properly dressed for the occasion" - Calvin Trillin

 

#22 2017-11-02 15:08:04

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: Club collar?

/\  don't forget the Krueger effect.


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#23 2017-11-02 15:09:47

Berkeley_Breathes
Member
From: Crabapple Cove, ME
Posts: 4519

Re: Club collar?


"The only comment a gentleman’s outfit should generate is that he is properly dressed for the occasion" - Calvin Trillin

 

#24 2017-11-02 15:12:44

Berkeley_Breathes
Member
From: Crabapple Cove, ME
Posts: 4519

Re: Club collar?


"The only comment a gentleman’s outfit should generate is that he is properly dressed for the occasion" - Calvin Trillin

 

#25 2017-11-02 15:20:51

Tommy
Member
Posts: 1753

Re: Club collar?

 

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