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#26 2018-01-12 10:28:21

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: The Great White North
Posts: 1770

Re: The ideal wardrobe

Worried Man wrote:

Berkeley_Breathes wrote:

Babbling Brooks wrote:

I think Ivy sucumbs to this idea of average being attractive ...and is probably the driving force behind its longevity, and i dont mean its attractiveness in trying to bag a mate, I mean its reason for being so attractive in terms or proportion etc. to the eye, its avoidance of extremes etc.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Averageness

I really like this idea, especially after looking through old yearbooks for a couple of days... Thanks for bringing this up, Babbling...

But what was average in 1960 ain't what's average today.  I've received flack from friends for tucking my shirt in when I'm in casual attire.

Yeah, I read an article recently that was suggesting OCBD/repp tie/blue blazer for college, and it said with a straight face: 

Why dress this way? Several reasons. First, you’re in school to learn, not to attract undue attention by dressing horribly

As someone who did actually dress this way in college in the recent past, I can tell you it's a surefire way to attract undue attention, and would be even at an Ivy League school. (Also, I wasn't in school to learn, I was in school to meet people and get a degree.)

I love dressing the way I do, but I know I look different doing it. And to be honest, I kinda like it that way. I remember seeing an older gentleman at Shake Shack in Penn Station this summer wearing a beautiful 3/2 seersucker suit, and thinking "Heck yeah, dude." It's fun to see those little details when they don't show up often.


"Always take your job seriously, never yourself." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

 

#27 2018-01-12 10:32:03

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15981

Re: The ideal wardrobe

I just tell them "it's the new punk rock."


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#28 2018-01-12 12:35:49

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 11206

Re: The ideal wardrobe

one of my best friends, a guy who went to one of the most famous boarding schools and one of the most august colleges, a dude whose family goes way back in American history, my buddy for football, basketball, and baseball games, was telling me last week during our "cold snap" that he gave away all his wool sweaters and winter clothes because he wasn't wearing them anymore .....

I asked him "what about the sweater you're wearing now?" (gray lambswool v-neck with a hole in the front), he said it was his favorite and was spared because it was at his mom's house in [Preppyville] and she sent to him because she knew it was cold, which made me laugh because that's what worrywart moms always used to do back in the day ......

dude is a walking illustration of the prep's embrace of The North Face, Patagonia, and Adidas, got to love it ......

-----------------

if I was buying a new wardrobe of casual clothes I'd buy really good Japanese everything, assuming I could fit into even a single piece of it .... very impressed with their rugged prep offerings, not as impressed with their Ivy .....

------------------------------

my want list from O'Connell's is extensive but it consists of sweaters and other woolen items that I can't justify given that I already have lots of unworn winter gear though I'm not giving the stuff away, unlike my friend .....


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#29 2018-01-12 12:43:50

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: The Great White North
Posts: 1770

Re: The ideal wardrobe

stanshall wrote:

one of my best friends, a guy who went to one of the most famous boarding schools and one of the most august colleges, a dude whose family goes way back in American history, my buddy for football, basketball, and baseball games, was telling me last week during our "cold snap" that he gave away all his wool sweaters and winter clothes because he wasn't wearing them anymore .....

I asked him "what about the sweater you're wearing now?" (gray lambswool v-neck with a hole in the front), he said it was his favorite and was spared because it was at his mom's house in [Preppyville] and she sent to him because she knew it was cold, which made me laugh because that's what worrywart moms always used to do back in the day ......

dude is a walking illustration of the prep's embrace of The North Face, Patagonia, and Adidas, got to love it ......

-----------------

if I was buying a new wardrobe of casual clothes I'd buy really good Japanese everything, assuming I could fit into even a single piece of it .... very impressed with their rugged prep offerings, not as impressed with their Ivy .....

------------------------------

my want list from O'Connell's is extensive but it consists of sweaters and other woolen items that I can't justify given that I already have lots of unworn winter gear though I'm not giving the stuff away, unlike my friend .....

You've got to come give that winter stuff a workout here in NYC! big_smile

Great story from your buddy... Holes in my stuff is when I start holding onto it the most...

Speaking of winter garb, aside from the seersucker I recently purchased in subzero temperatures I just picked up a beautiful old beige poplin sport coat from Brooks for $25... Now excuse me while I put on another sweater...


"Always take your job seriously, never yourself." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

 

#30 2018-01-12 22:57:11

ste
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 53

Re: The ideal wardrobe

Keeping it to this so if someone eventually moves in with me they have room to put their own stuff.

Shirts:
Heavy Blue OCBD
Tatersall twill
White Linen   
Pink Linen
Light blue OCBD
White OCBD   
Ecru OCBD   
Grey OCBD   
White Broadcloth   
Blue Broadcloth

Pants:
Brown cord / moleskin
Airforce Blue Flannel
Blue-grey tropical wool   
Grey Poplin   
Grey Stayprest   
Navy Stayprest   
Brown Stayprest   
Grey worsted Wool (JAB)   
Tan Hudson chinos
       
Jackets:
Grey Herringbone   
Flannel Blazer
Madras   
Silk Blazer   
Brown Plaid Check   
blue / brown / olive plaid
       
Suits:

POW Check   
Dark Charcoal Sack   

Tan mac with zip-out liner
Navy Harrington
Bucket hat

Whoops - Sweaters
Grey shetland
Navy cardigan
Navy v-neck (thin for under a jacket)
Camel shawl cardigan

All the short and narrow ties in a pattern I like.
Brown, black, tan leather belts, light navy stretch braided belt.
Black bluchers, brown norwegians, brown and tan loafers, tobacco chukkas, white JPs, tan flip-flops

(Polos, and retired pants for golf)

Shirts are from tailor (was T. Fukuoka in Japan, slowly getting replaced by Luxire), pants are (mostly) from Al's Attire (too slow, will go to Luxire from now), shoes ebay, jackets etsy/ebay, ties etsy/ebay.

What I like is not on the rack with a tag, unfortunately. And there's no men's shop anymore...

Last edited by ste (2018-01-12 22:58:27)

 

#31 2018-01-13 06:02:00

Patrick
Member
Posts: 2232

Re: The ideal wardrobe

Worried Man wrote:

But if I hit the lottery or something and money was no consideration I'd consider starting over from scratch and just hit O'C's, Press, H. Stockton, and having an impeccably tailored, staple wardrobe like the guy in the OP.

This is how I lull myself to sleep at night.

 

#32 2018-01-13 11:34:45

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: The Great White North
Posts: 1770

Re: The ideal wardrobe

ste wrote:

White Linen   
Pink Linen
...   
Grey OCBD   
...
Bucket hat

There's some cool stuff on this list that doesn't show up often...


"Always take your job seriously, never yourself." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

 

#33 2018-01-16 16:18:19

ste
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 53

Re: The ideal wardrobe

Berkeley_Breathes wrote:

ste wrote:

White Linen   
Pink Linen
...   
Grey OCBD   
...
Bucket hat

There's some cool stuff on this list that doesn't show up often...

"I gotta be me..."

 

#34 2018-01-16 16:38:12

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: The Great White North
Posts: 1770

Re: The ideal wardrobe

Speaking of essential wardrobe items, and linen - does anyone have a linen sport coat or suit? I've been stocking up on summer jackets and so this photo of WFB caught my eye more than it may have otherwise... Not sure if that's linen or chambray, though?

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/f0/2d/a4/f02da476d4794fffe793e11a2f16a1df.jpg


"Always take your job seriously, never yourself." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

 

#35 2018-01-16 19:39:20

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15981

Re: The ideal wardrobe

I'd love a linen jacket.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#36 2018-01-16 20:21:08

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: The Great White North
Posts: 1770

Re: The ideal wardrobe

I have to say, looking at this photo makes me feel vindicated about still really liking an old Anderson-Little madras jacket I own with beautiful shoulders just like on WFB's jacket above - and wide lapels, too...


"Always take your job seriously, never yourself." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

 

#37 2018-01-17 07:44:45

mhalat
Member
Posts: 75

Re: The ideal wardrobe

Berkeley_Breathes wrote:

I have to say, looking at this photo makes me feel vindicated about still really liking an old Anderson-Little madras jacket I own with beautiful shoulders just like on WFB's jacket above - and wide lapels, too...

On the wide lapel tip - I was watching a George Burns interview recently (also ft. Walter Matthau in a classic Ivy sack jacket / OCBD / Repp look), during which he was wearing this beauty. Far from traditional Ivy, but as a guy who appreciates pieces like Teba jackets, I started coveting....

https://i.imgur.com/6PWUphR.jpg

Last edited by mhalat (2018-01-17 07:49:47)

 

#38 2018-01-18 11:48:18

ste
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 53

Re: The ideal wardrobe

I think if you're going to wear wide lapels you at least need longer hair.

But wider belt, wider pant legs, wider tie, slightly longer collar points. It doesn't necessarily look bad. A lot of crap was produced in that era which gives it a bad rap.

 

#39 2018-01-18 12:19:52

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: The Great White North
Posts: 1770

Re: The ideal wardrobe

mhalat wrote:

Berkeley_Breathes wrote:

I have to say, looking at this photo makes me feel vindicated about still really liking an old Anderson-Little madras jacket I own with beautiful shoulders just like on WFB's jacket above - and wide lapels, too...

On the wide lapel tip - I was watching a George Burns interview recently (also ft. Walter Matthau in a classic Ivy sack jacket / OCBD / Repp look), during which he was wearing this beauty. Far from traditional Ivy, but as a guy who appreciates pieces like Teba jackets, I started coveting....

https://i.imgur.com/6PWUphR.jpg

Ha! That's a little much for me... George Burns was *almost* trad, but never quite made it there...

I agree with ste, even wide lapels like those on WFB need a serious collar at least to really work...


"Always take your job seriously, never yourself." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

 

#40 2018-01-18 13:29:38

mhalat
Member
Posts: 75

Re: The ideal wardrobe

Berkeley_Breathes wrote:

mhalat wrote:

Berkeley_Breathes wrote:

I have to say, looking at this photo makes me feel vindicated about still really liking an old Anderson-Little madras jacket I own with beautiful shoulders just like on WFB's jacket above - and wide lapels, too...

On the wide lapel tip - I was watching a George Burns interview recently (also ft. Walter Matthau in a classic Ivy sack jacket / OCBD / Repp look), during which he was wearing this beauty. Far from traditional Ivy, but as a guy who appreciates pieces like Teba jackets, I started coveting....

https://i.imgur.com/6PWUphR.jpg

Ha! That's a little much for me... George Burns was *almost* trad, but never quite made it there...

I agree with ste, even wide lapels like those on WFB need a serious collar at least to really work...

Agreed. I can't speak for elsewhere, but as a lot of money has been funneling into Toronto, bespoke tailors have been popping up like mushrooms, near all of them pumping out cobalt blue single breasted extra-slim monstrosities with the widest peaks money can buy (to be worn with a spread collar shirt, no tie). Hockey players are the sartorial leaders here, and let me tell you, it ain't pretty.

 

#41 2018-01-18 13:35:34

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: The Great White North
Posts: 1770

Re: The ideal wardrobe

mhalat wrote:

Berkeley_Breathes wrote:

mhalat wrote:


On the wide lapel tip - I was watching a George Burns interview recently (also ft. Walter Matthau in a classic Ivy sack jacket / OCBD / Repp look), during which he was wearing this beauty. Far from traditional Ivy, but as a guy who appreciates pieces like Teba jackets, I started coveting....

https://i.imgur.com/6PWUphR.jpg

Ha! That's a little much for me... George Burns was *almost* trad, but never quite made it there...

I agree with ste, even wide lapels like those on WFB need a serious collar at least to really work...

Agreed. I can't speak for elsewhere, but as a lot of money has been funneling into Toronto, bespoke tailors have been popping up like mushrooms, near all of them pumping out cobalt blue single breasted extra-slim monstrosities with the widest peaks money can buy (to be worn with a spread collar shirt, no tie). Hockey players are the sartorial leaders here, and let me tell you, it ain't pretty.

Wait, what? Slim suit with WIDE lapels?


"Always take your job seriously, never yourself." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

 

#42 2018-01-18 13:49:57

mhalat
Member
Posts: 75

Re: The ideal wardrobe

YUP! That is the Millennial Canadian financier/pro athlete look du jour.

 

#43 2018-01-18 13:55:46

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: The Great White North
Posts: 1770

Re: The ideal wardrobe

oh sh*t

https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/wp-media-theathletic-production/app/uploads/2017/04/15030629/GettyImages-664601668-2-1024x529.jpg

The blue is, uh, not my taste... but single-breasted peak-lapel suits are a thing, speaking of WFB he wore them and I believe RFK may have as well near the end...

But holy cow, that gray suit is disgusting, and not in a good way


"Always take your job seriously, never yourself." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

 

#44 2018-01-18 14:08:51

mhalat
Member
Posts: 75

Re: The ideal wardrobe

Yeah, I really ride for a single breasted peak, done tastefully, especially as a 'Hip' suit for wear at night, as our man the FNB has discussed before. They are rarely done tastefully in Toronto. This, from Drake's tailor:

https://i.imgur.com/fOQzvX1.jpg

 

#45 2018-01-18 14:30:27

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: The Great White North
Posts: 1770

Re: The ideal wardrobe

mhalat wrote:

Yeah, I really ride for a single breasted peak, done tastefully, especially as a 'Hip' suit for wear at night, as our man the FNB has discussed before. They are rarely done tastefully in Toronto. This, from Drake's tailor:

https://i.imgur.com/fOQzvX1.jpg

Is this a good or bad example? It's better than the gray I posted, but it has Modern Suit Syndrome (MSS) - super low rise (belt below the second button!) and it's a suuuuper short jacket (but not adjusted to stay in proportion - it's just a miniature jacket, thus the sit pockets way too high, as do the buttons - the only adjusted element is the sleeve length, which is lengthened to still fit). And super duper slim, although at least the shoulders are okay.

Nice pattern, though.

https://78.media.tumblr.com/9bed245d92ecc0b2a7bf12b780e77bd0/tumblr_p2h1z2aG4Y1x1h28xo2_1280.png
https://78.media.tumblr.com/92bfe1861a7dae39c92331541a668209/tumblr_p2h1z2aG4Y1x1h28xo3_1280.png


"Always take your job seriously, never yourself." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

 

#46 2018-01-18 14:34:00

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: The Great White North
Posts: 1770

Re: The ideal wardrobe

A more recent example:

https://media.gettyimages.com/photos/edward-kennedy-us-senator-from-massachusetts-left-leaves-general-picture-id94892744

I think this style of suit works very well on Kennedy's, uh, ample figure...


"Always take your job seriously, never yourself." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

 

#47 2018-01-18 14:41:48

mhalat
Member
Posts: 75

Re: The ideal wardrobe

Berkeley_Breathes wrote:

A more recent example:

I think this style of suit works very well on Kennedy's, uh, ample figure...

As an ample fella, I'll take that look, or Mr. Buckley's, any day of the week over a low rise, super slim modern suit any day - and yes, the latter was an example of a bad, and all too common, cut in this city.

 

#48 2018-01-18 15:29:50

Jeff Reed
Member
From: Brooklyn, New York
Posts: 983

Re: The ideal wardrobe

That poor button is doing a lot of work.

 

#49 2018-01-18 18:28:55

ste
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 53

Re: The ideal wardrobe

Speaking of ample figures - I wonder if the peak lapel came back for the large chests of today? Of course models are always effete, but the buyer needs more lapel real-estate to avoid looking like Disney introducing the Space Program.
And wide lapels aren't popular other than with the high-waisted, wide band, no belt pleated trouser crowd who tie their ties incorrectly (but exactly like each other).

One of the reasons I can't handle off-the-rack (except for H&J) is I need narrow lapels for my narrow frame. I imagine it's the opposite for larger folks, and the peak lapel works I guess.

Personally, I never have been a fan of peaks. To me they're like opera shoes, felt boutonnieres,  or skulls.

On a tux or double-breasted jacket I can accept it. I'd rather have a shawl collar tux. On a double-breasted jacket I'd prefer the upper angle of the peak to be more horizontal, and for the peak itself to be wider. Not narrow, pointing up and thus in need of a button like my collar points.

 

#50 2018-01-18 20:01:03

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: The Great White North
Posts: 1770

Re: The ideal wardrobe

http://english12aphamlet.weebly.com/uploads/1/8/3/2/18326859/192996050.jpg?303

So gauche... big_smile

I agree about shawl collar tuxedos, and I also agree that a wider lapel usually looks good on a tux, and I think it's no coincidence tuxes look good double breasted as well... But unless you're Prince Charles, double-breasted is super hard to pull off without looking like a try-hard.

Mary Janes looked good on Frank Sinatra, but I fall into the less is more camp when it comes to formal wear... Wear it like any other suit...

Interesting point about chest size and lapel size... I wouldn't be surprised if that was a factor...

https://i.dmarge.com/2015/12/suichris-610x440.jpg


"Always take your job seriously, never yourself." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

 

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