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#101 2007-11-15 00:08:07

Horace
Member
Posts: 6067

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

I don't think this particular Tangent prefers docking at Mediterranean ports.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#102 2007-11-15 00:55:57

Jack_The_Lad
Member
Posts: 730

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

I haven't heard Russian Twill mentioned for 20 years...

I should get out more.


"I like a bit of a cavort..."

 

#103 2008-06-01 17:50:32

Horace
Member
Posts: 6067

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

Horace wrote:

I love the look of Levis, green tweed, and brown loafers sans socks.


http://img313.imageshack.us/img313/5035 … 8py.th.jpg

Credit where credit is due, Bulldog, ol' chum.

ttp://bulldog7299.blogspot.com/2008/05/norman-hilton-does-tweed-with-jeans.html


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#104 2012-01-20 22:54:19

comrade
New member
From: palo alto, CA
Posts: 3

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

Coolidge wrote:

Horace wrote:

That Rosenberg suit that Collidge posted on AA&AAC is da shizzle.  Beautiful lapels and fabric and shoulder.  Maybe needs a bit of a taking in on the side panels (to my taste) but simply a matter of taste.  My Press suit (similar but not quite) is somewhat like that.    Almost same cut and color.  Coolidge appears lucky enough to have inherited that Stackpole and Moore stuff from his grandfather.  I never had been to A. Rosenberg.  They were a New Haven Clothier right?  Any other branches?  Camb or NYC?

Thank you sir. And, in accordance with your request, I here repost:

http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/8453/andypic2oh.jpg

http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/7035/andy21iv.jpg

Stackpole and Moore was from my grandfather, but the pictured Rosenberg was a $6 thrift store find at the Middletown Goodwill!

Arthur Rosenberg, according to a discussion I had in Andyland with Tom22, was big player in the New Haven trad scene. It also had a store in New York, and Rosenthal-Maretz Co. (also in New Haven and New York) was a splitoff from it when employees left Rosenberg, which explains the reason why their label is nearly identical to Rosenberg's on the herringbone topcoat my Dad has passed on to me.

Tom22, a New Haven native, said:

"Rosenberg's was located at the corner of York and Elm St. in New Haven in the same building that Barries shoe store moved into and is
now occupied by a shoe store run by former Barrie employees.
I think Rosenberg's went out of business in the late 80s. I bought my first adult suit their in the very early 1970s. In the end it was going down hill. For most of its life it competed with JPress and several other noted New haven men's stores like White's, Gentree and even a men's store branch of Saks Fifth Avenue. The Yale Co-op
also had a quite decent men's shop dedicated to the college trade. McGeorge sweaters and Sero shirts were part of their stock in trade.
These days only Enson's and JPress survive from that earlier time"

Another poster noted, quoting from a 1960 Esquire article

"Chronologically, Lord of New York is a branch of a genealogy that goes all the way back to 1835 and Brooks Brothers' natural-shoulder—or, as it is precisely known, No. 1—sack suit. Around the turn of the century, Arthur Rosenberg, then the foremost tailor in New Haven, began to exploit this style among Yale undergraduates, and, not long afterwards, J. Press, also of New Haven, fell into line. Eventually, two Rosenberg employees, Sam Rosenthal and Moe Maretz, went out on their own as Rosenthal-Maretz; then Bill Fenn and Jack Feinstein left David T. Langrock to form Fenn-Feinstein (now associated with Frank Brothers). Somewhat later on, Mort Sill and (a year later) Jonas Arnold quit Press and opened a shop in Harvard Square, Cambridge, which they called Chipp. Then, with his partner's departure to form Sill (New York and Harvard Square), Jonas Arnold entered into an agreement whereby two former Press employees—Sid Winston and the late Lou Prager—were permitted to use Chipp as the name of the shop they were about to open in New York. Arnold, who closed his Cambridge store several years ago, is still a partner in the New York Chipp's."

All of this was from my thread on the suit in 10/2005

So clearly Rosenberg was New Haven's Trad Godfather of sorts

They had a store off Madison Ave in NYC in the late 60s early to mid 70s.
I still have a couple of their ties.

 

#105 2012-01-21 18:10:00

carpu65
Member
Posts: 944

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

Horace wrote:

From 1959.  With what looks to be a slightly more "built up" shoulder then the Brooks shoulder.

http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/1991 … eu3.th.jpg

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/viewtopic.php?id=10091

 

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