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#1 2023-09-04 07:42:13

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 796

RALPH LAUREN FALL '23

For many years, when I had to wear a suit and tie to the office, Ralph Lauren became my go to. Natural shoulder suits with narrow lapels, repp ties with stripes or club emblematics, polka dot or paisley pocket squares. Never a polo player in sight.

The benefit of Ralph was they would stock a wide range of the clothes I loved all under one roof, alterations were free and I would get in early on any sales/promotions.

In spring it was pastels, loafers, linen and cotton suits. Crosgrain belts and patch madras. Island inspired swim shorts and unstructured seersucker jackets.

In fall, possibly Ralph at his best, tweed with windowpanes in burnt orange, British racing green or rich burgundy, bright cords, brushed shetlands in dusty pink and green, double soled brogues. Always a herringbone jacket either with bellows pockets or patch and flap. Cashmere flannel trousers and camel polo coats.

The store on Bond Street felt clubby or like someone's home. Beautiful photography on the walls by Horst, Slim Aarons and Sheila Metzner, art deco object d'art and a big band soundtrack in the background.

Yesterday after quite a long time I paid the store a visit.

I immediately spotted a beautiful Ivy inspired grey flannel suit. All the aforementioned Autumn items were all present and correct. There was even some made in the USA pull-over oxfords.

The big difference now is in the pricing. It's crazy.

I always felt that Ralph clothing, in their flagship stores ,was exceptionally well made. Cornealani and later Hickey freeman made their suits and sports jackets, dress shoes were by Crocketts or Edward Green,  knitwear was genuine shetland.

I spotted a pea coat that was the best part of a grand, mass produced shirts were £165, the made in Asia knitwear far more expensive than the real thing from Scotland.

 

#2 2023-09-04 10:01:06

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1183

Re: RALPH LAUREN FALL '23

Yes prices for branded clothing has moved up a lot in price generally - RL are consistent with that.  Whether costs or profit, who knows! 

NOS / 2nd hand RL on ebay has been a rich source these last few years.

People seem to sell on after either never wearing or only a couple of times.

 

#3 2023-09-05 05:57:43

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 796

Re: RALPH LAUREN FALL '23

I think this goes beyond simple price inflation.

To put the Ralph prices in context I've put together a little comparison.

To make this realistic I've used other reputable brands so it a genuine apples for apples comparison.

Ralph cord trousers are £269. Cordings £125

Water Repellant quilted Jacket £269. Barbour Chelsea sports quilt £129

Ralph wool cashmere 10% brushed sweater £269. Bosie albeit without the elbow patches £145

I could go on but I think you get the picture. Ralph is nearly double for similar and possibly inferior merchandise.

Makes Chiltern Street look cheap.

 

#4 2023-09-05 06:13:26

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1183

Re: RALPH LAUREN FALL '23

RL was driven by its investors to move up in market position (whether some of the clothing justifies this is another issue).

It had been caught in a discounting trap - so it followed the Burberry model. It's trying to position itself as a premium clothing retailer and the prices reflect that now.

I don't think they would compare to Barbour or Cordings in their view of brand market position.  Drakes isn't a global brand, but is a helpful comparator and their prices are more aligned to RL level you showed.

They are spread wide on quality - from the top end tailoring through to the TKMaxx level.  But their RRPs on the website and undiscounted in stores is now positioned at the upper level.

I haven't read the reports, but I saw headlines of RL saying USA sales had been sluggish recently and it being an economic indicator there.

If you visit RL outlet stores in USA as I had to when my case never arrived on a business trip - there is a low tier of traditional clothing there that was comparatively inexpensive and doesn't look at all like the items at the website.  I did find enough to get me through the trip thankfully of our type of clothing, mixed in with the generic trad clothing.

Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2023-09-05 06:15:26)

 

#5 2023-09-06 09:19:58

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 796

Re: RALPH LAUREN FALL '23

I agree they wouldn't compare Cordings or Barbour as competitors but it proves a useful barometer on how their prices stack up.

I appreciate price is subjective but Ralph was always a great source for classics at reasonable price point. Higher priced items were always justified by the craftsmanship or materials.

Cashmere sweaters from decent Scottish makers, Northampton bench made footwear, half canvassed suits from Italy and lots of discreet details that only the wearer would notice.

The pricing now doesn't justify a lot of the products. I'm not on about the tat manufactured for discounters but the flagship store products.

You're right about the outlet stores. Most of the merchandise is made exclusively for them. The clue is in the POS material used. I spend a lot of time in the States and the only way to regularly get decent Polo is through Maceys who always seem to have a deal or two.

 

#6 2023-09-06 13:53:28

FlatSixC
Member
Posts: 300

Re: RALPH LAUREN FALL '23

The Veblen Effect!

 

#7 2023-09-07 05:46:24

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 796

Re: RALPH LAUREN FALL '23

^FSC. Yes, you're right.

I have followed the Ralph corporation for many years.

As a marketing professional they make for a really interesting case study.

Historically they had loads of brands as well as partnerships with retailers. In menswear alone, at one time, they had nine different brands - Purple label, Black label, Polo, RRL, RLX, Polo Golf, Polo Jeans, Lauren, Rugby – together with merchandise made specifically for outlet stores.

From a design perspective there was a lot of crossover - especially between Polo and Rugby. The Rugby brand was very good quality, great designs at reasonable prices.

They shuttered Rugby and stopped Black Label. Polo Jeans was merged into Polo. RLX still exists but is now a simplified sportswear brand.

With fewer brands they have stretched and stretched the Polo brand. It's a shadow of what it was. I don't know of any other menswear brand that covers as many products or price points.

Many consumers will always like to feel they have bought into the lifestyle or have simply grabbed a designer bargain. That gives the brand volume. The mid market will always like the reassurance of branded merchandise bought at House of Fraser/John Lewis. It's going to be interesting to see if the merchandise on offer and their pricing at the flagship stores remains the same.

 

#8 2023-09-07 07:59:06

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1183

Re: RALPH LAUREN FALL '23

I think it is interesting to track their RL67 sports jackets - which are targetted at an Ivy/Prep heritage.  I've got a number of them in different clothes and patterns - they are now at £1100 in price - which I haven't and will not pay (the last thing I also need is more sports jackets!). Previously discounted they were at a good price for excellent quality, usually made in Italy.  Now even discounted, they need some serious jusification to yourself.

 

#9 2023-09-07 09:45:25

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 796

Re: RALPH LAUREN FALL '23

Really interested that you have the RL67 jackets.

Originally they had quite wide lapels that replicated something that Ralph owned in the 70's.

They tried a range of suits with a larger lapel too.

If they are Italian made they are typically half canvassed and made by Cornealani. Quality is superb.

 

#10 2023-10-26 06:30:21

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 796

Re: RALPH LAUREN FALL '23

A lot of the aforementioned clothing is now online under the title Heritage Icons.

Sadly the images of complete rigs fall down as I don't think many would wear a lovely tweed three piece with hi-viz trainers.

This is so typical of Ralph. They think mixing it up somehow makes their clothing more fashionable. If you wanted high fashion I don't think Ralph would be your first call.

There are some really nice individual pieces on there, including tweed patch and flap, 3 roll 2, natural shouldered tweed jackets albeit darted. There's also a tartan flap pocket shirt, mock shetland sweaters with suede elbow patches, surcingle belts and a Made In the USA camp shoe that's probably from Rancourt.

 

#11 2023-10-27 04:42:37

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1183

Re: RALPH LAUREN FALL '23

The formal wear with trainers thing is a popular fashion trend right now, popularised by sports stars and commentators who are increasingly influential in this space.  I think the dressers for those commentators when they are on TV are often fashion led and quite influential in trends.

I'm not saying a three piece suit with trainers - those merchanising displays of RL have always been deliberately garish.  But suits with trainers, definitely (even though I grind my teeth when I see it). I've even seen mention now of the trousers being made to sit on trainers rather than formal shoes in some instances.

RL is seen in that space as it's perceived as 'aspirational' along with Gant, Tommy Hilfigger, Paul Smith, Lacoste etc - there is a new prep trend around, even if the younger people adopting it don't call it that or understand it in those terms.  My son is doing a masters at Uni of Nottingham and observes this - he has taken some of my worn in on-brand polos and even took a couple of shawl collar cardigans too.  All of a sudden he appreciates button down shirts now too, it's fascinating to observe. The harringtons he wanted as street wear a few years ago that I bought him, now he sees as part of the unstated preppy type thing.

I have never pushed style to our lads - they pick some of it up naturally in their own way.  But there definitely is a kind of smart-casual brand led fashion going on, which plays into those students banned from weaing chinos and blue shirts.   Darned Hooray Henrys.

Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2023-10-27 04:48:08)

 

#12 2023-10-27 06:43:34

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 796

Re: RALPH LAUREN FALL '23

There is defiantly a disconnect between the stores and online.

In the Bond Street store the rigs are beautifully put together. You can literally see a mannequin and want the whole look. The online images aren't as nice and don't sit with overall aesthetic.

Ralph himself has always mixed it up. His dinner jacket and cowboy boots for an awards dinner was a very early example.

Personally, I'm not a fan. If I wanted a more fashion forward look there are plenty of brands to choose from - a lot who do it a hell of a lot better than RL.

 

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