Vaclav wrote:

Horace wrote:

I'm pleased to note that our old friend Skip from AA&AAC has taken note of this thread and repeated some of what's gleaned from it, there.

It's sad they cannot post a link inside.

Perhaps someday they will be free?

Tomasso wrote:

Horace wrote:

And more often than not, I'll take the pocket.  Even on bespoke.

Horace, I'll see your flapped pocket, and raise you one.

All of my  BD collar shirts  have two flapped pockets. I've always like the look. Years ago, I ordered epaulets as well. I don't wear a BD with a suit very often, mostly with a sport coat sans tie(Agnelli style).


http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e141/ … oes037.jpg

It was always natural for the Brooks Brothers man, and I imagine still is, to wear a BB BD oxford blue shirt with a BB suit, from grey flannel to khaki poplin.

Marc Grayson wrote:

Tomasso wrote:

Horace wrote:

And more often than not, I'll take the pocket.  Even on bespoke.

Horace, I'll see your flapped pocket, and raise you one.

All of my  BD collar shirts  have two flapped pockets. I've always like the look. Years ago, I ordered epaulets as well. I don't wear a BD with a suit very often, mostly with a sport coat sans tie(Agnelli style).


http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e141/ … oes037.jpg

It was always natural for the Brooks Brothers man, and I imagine still is, to wear a BB BD oxford blue shirt with a BB suit, from grey flannel to khaki poplin.

Followed by white, I'd assume.

Here's a few more.

A Paul Stuart with cloth from Denmark, c. Winter 1954:



(I wonder if you can still get cloth from Denmark?  I know they still do excellent woven stuff -- sweaters, caps, socks, fine hosiery, etc.)  There's a store in Paris -- the name I don't remember -- that has much good Danish stuff.  By the Scottish boutique.

Some Brooks "polo" shirts, c. Aut. 1953.  You'll recall that Allen Solly used to make good quality stuff.  I don't know if they still do.  Pollock had something to say about them, in a post previous, on the other forums.




Rogers Peet, Winter 1953.  I really like the roll to this collar.  This price (US$3.95) is about 1/2 price of what a Brooks shirt was at this time, I think.

Last edited by Horace (2006-06-01 06:39:59)

I have to get on the record and submit my thoughts on this. I sincerely think that button down shirts and double cuffs are wrong. Button down shirts are an excellent choice in casual shirting. Double cuff shirts are an excellent choice in more formal shirts. When you combine both of these elements, you get, IMHO, mush. IE, a shirt that is neither casual or formal.

IMHO, this type of shirt is the sartorial equivalent of a DB coat with notch lapels...................

Last edited by cuffthis (2006-06-08 08:54:37)

cuffthis wrote:

I sincerely think that button down shirts and double cuffs are wrong.

They have their devotees.

cuffthis wrote:

I have to get on the record and submit my thoughts on this. I sincerely think that button down shirts and double cuffs are wrong.

I tend to agree with you, though I think the Cary Grant example looks swell (but when is Grant not a good example, eh?).

Button down shirts are an excellent choice in casual shirting.

I know that they're inherently less formal than other collar styled shirts, but I would probably rank a little less casual than you would.

IMHO, this type of shirt is the sartorial equivalent of a DB coat with notch lapels...................

Just a guess, but I bet we could find examples of DB coats with notched lapels that were fashionable & respectable "back in the day", as the kids like to say.

Tomasso wrote:

cuffthis wrote:

I sincerely think that button down shirts and double cuffs are wrong.

They have their devotees.

I suppose you can't tell from the picture, but I wonder if that's a one-sided link.  (or a bar type double-link).  It'd be great if it were one-sided.

Tomasso wrote:

Horace, have you run into any ads for Middishade Clothing ? Have you any info on the company? They were based in Philadelphia.

No but I'll keep a look out.  Were they a suit or shirt company?  There were something like over 40 shirt factories in Philly at one time, according to this guy I was talking to that's still in the rag trade.

THanks for the pic.  I'll keep a look out.  I did notice, in older publications, many more suitmakers from Philadelphia.  Gordon was one.  I don't recall if GGG was the same as Gordon or another name entirely.

Interesting size & placement of that flapped pocket - It looks lower down the shirt body and larger than I've seen before. Or is that just me?

Golden Arrow shirts, Winter '53:




Note too, the gorge on this jacket.  Some would claim that this gorge is too low; I think it looks fine.  Though granted it is an illustration and the figure is sitting.

Horace wrote:

Miles Away wrote:

Interesting size & placement of that flapped pocket - It looks lower down the shirt body and larger than I've seen before. Or is that just me?

No, it certainly looks that way.  But I wonder if it isn't an illusion created by the trousers being worn higher on the waist?

Could well be - Good point.