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#1 2006-03-12 15:27:37
- Cruz Diez
- Member
- Posts: 1950
Edward Green bespoke
After one of my first meetings with Tony Gaziano @ Edward Green some time ago I wrote some notes that I want to share here. I hope you will find them useful. BTW, Tony will be in the US next week.
Meeting with Tony Gaziano was a great opportunity to learn about the bespoke shoe industry (which appears to be doing relatively well these days), and technical aspect of shoemaking. I'll focus my attention on the latter.
Tony's shoes are remarkable works of craftsmanship and he's directly involved in many steps of the shoemaking process. He carves the lasts, the foundation of the whole process, executes the clicking, and, in many occasions, the closing. In addition, he does the antiquing and polishing --an Edward Green specialty.
Among the many new things I learned is that soles of the finest shoes are not pressed into their final thickness by the leather supplier (e.g. Rendenbach). Rather, the maker extensively compresses the soles over the actual shoe with the aid of a hammer --a painstaking operation. This method allows the maker to mold the soles as closely as possible against the last. The benefits of this method are better fit, lighter weight, and more elaborate shapes of the soles (e.g. extreme beveling and fiddle-back waist), in comparison to soles built from leather that is completely rolled by the supplier. It was interesting to study the shoes in the fitting stage, in particular the underside of the insoles. The history of the making process is printed on this surface. For example, the welting awl, lasting nails, feather skiving, and welting, leave their signature on the leather. Some of them are readily identifiable, some others not quite so, unless they're pointed out by the shoe maker. Among the less apparent aspects conveyed by this "open book", is the number and type of layers perforated with the awl, both of which vary greatly as we move along the periphery of the insole.
The allusion to a series of layers of leather leads me to mention some aspects on the interplay between internal reinforcements and aesthetics. Reinforcements in the heel counter, toe puff, and arch supports, for customers with special needs, are made of special hardened leather pieces, sandwiched between the outer leather and interior lining upon the lasting process. In plain-front shoes in particular, the manner in which the reinforcements are laid out is key to achieving a seamless exterior. Done incorrectly, the polished exterior magnifies any unevenness caused by the reinforcements. But Tony lays out a middle piece that connects the reinforcement "islands" and hence the shoe appears completely smooth, without any interruptions of the lines he so painstakingly carved in the last.
The fit of his shoes is excellent. I was really impressed by how Tony manages to render the 2-D outline and measurements into a 3-D last, that not only reflects those measurements, but also the customer's foot intricacies, such as the shape of the heels, not entirely captured by the numbers and outlines. For example, expert lastmaking results in a shoe that literally hugs the customer's heels. This is one of the traits that separate a well-fitting bespoke shoe from other shoes: there's virtually no slip in the heel area as the wearer walks.
#2 2006-03-12 21:04:31
- Cruz Diez
- Member
- Posts: 1950
Re: Edward Green bespoke
Last edited by Cruz Diez (2006-03-12 21:13:37)
#3 2006-03-12 21:22:35
- Film Noir Buff
- Dandy Nightmare
- From: Devil's Island
- Posts: 9341
Re: Edward Green bespoke
I believe if the Beau had seen those his excalmation wouldve been something along the lines of "Thems da bomb!"
#4 2006-03-14 08:10:36
- TinkerTailorCPA
- Member
- Posts: 21
Re: Edward Green bespoke
Cruz Diez,
Recently I received by first pair of bespoke EGs. It is the same model you posted. Your shoes look stunning. Unfortunately, my shoes have a different shape and are very tight. I will be meeting with Tony next week; do you mind if I show Tony a picture of your shoes?
If I'm not mistaken, I remember your posts regarding Mimmo Siviglia, custom shirtmaker form Rome. I also have shirts made by Mimmo and agree that he is a true artisan and is among the best shirtmakers anywhere.
#5 2006-03-14 17:52:01
- Cruz Diez
- Member
- Posts: 1950
Re: Edward Green bespoke
Tinker, is your foot particularly wide or has a peculiar shape? Sometimes the last maker has to really struggle to make a beautiful shoe around a non-cooperative foot. In my case, I have rather flat and wide feet, and I do wish I had a less stocky bone structure when comparing my shoes to others Tony has made for more gifted, slender-footed customers. However, Tony still manages to make super-beautiful shoes for my not-so-pretty feet. Please show him the pic. He might have it already in his photo album/portfolio. He will take care of you.
For your Siviglia shirts, did you have your fittings in Rome, or through Maestro Raffaelli in NYC? I'll visit him in Rome soon and will report back.
#6 2006-03-14 18:13:13
- Vaclav
- Member
- Posts: 1330
Re: Edward Green bespoke
Hello Cruz Diez,
Do you know please, any bespoke shoes in Eastern Europe, other of Vass?
Thank you,
Vaclav
#7 2006-03-14 18:16:02
- Cruz Diez
- Member
- Posts: 1950
Re: Edward Green bespoke
Vaclav, I've tried Kielman in Warsaw, really good shoes, IMO better than Vass. I'll post pics soon.
#9 2006-03-17 08:17:52
- TinkerTailorCPA
- Member
- Posts: 21
Re: Edward Green bespoke
Cruz Diez,
Most RTW shoes in size 7 1/2 with a medium width fit me perfectly. My only concern with Tony is that during the fitting I felt the shoe were very tigth and suggested another fitting. Tony said that was not necessary as he would make the necessary corrections. I believe Tony will do what is necessary to fix the problem.
I met Mimmo Siviglia in Rome, had measurements taken, but had to leave before giving him an order since I had to catch a flight home. I then met with Raphael and Rhoda Raffaelli in NYC. Addtional measurements were taken, a muslin fitting shirt was prepared, pictures were then taken and E-mailed to Mimmo. A sample shirt arrived that was absolutely near perfect. After receiving my first order of shirts, I once again met with Mimmo who tweaked the pattern.
These shirts compare with custom shirts I have worn made by acknowledged Maestros in both the U.S. as well as Europe.
Good luck with additional EG bespoke and Mimmo Siviglia shirt purchases.
Regars,
TinkerTailorCPA
#10 2006-03-17 17:23:36
- Incroyable
- Member
- Posts: 2310
Re: Edward Green bespoke
The Edward Green bespoke soles reminds me of the Lattanzis I have, which have that crescent detailing. However, do you feel that the waist could be narrower? A fiddle-back.
Jukebox Babe
#11 2006-03-17 19:49:11
- Cruz Diez
- Member
- Posts: 1950
Re: Edward Green bespoke
Last edited by Cruz Diez (2006-03-17 19:57:53)
#12 2006-03-17 19:52:38
- Cruz Diez
- Member
- Posts: 1950
Re: Edward Green bespoke
Tinker, would you care to share which maestro-shirtmaker you've tried in the US? I am intrigued, as I know of none.
Last edited by Cruz Diez (2006-03-17 19:53:22)
#13 2006-03-17 20:22:17
- Incroyable
- Member
- Posts: 2310
Re: Edward Green bespoke
Ah yes, now it shows clearer. Thank you Cruz Diez.
Jukebox Babe
#14 2006-03-18 11:21:03
- le.gentleman
- Member
- Posts: 28
Re: Edward Green bespoke
Dear Miguel,
I already booked my flight to Warsaw and I look forward to getting my first pair of bespoke shoes from Jan Kielman. As you already have several pairs I wanted to ask you whether you can provide me with any hints, tips regarding Kielman. Are there any specials one could ask for? Do they usually take Rendenbach Sole Leather, make 3 piece shoe trees...
I really like elegant lasts for example from Tony Gaziano, Dimitrier Gomez and the Corthay brothers. I will be in Warsaw for 3 days - do you think I can show them exactly which kind of last I am looking for? May I show them pictures of my prefered last design? May chose e.g. a purple or orange leather lining for my shoes?Do they know how to make a fiddle back waist?
Have you ever heard of Tadeusz Januszkiewicz? He resides in the same street as Kielman, also a bespoke shoemaker...
@vaclav: here are the adresses of several shoemakers in Warsaw - but I do not know anything about them:
Tadeusz Januszkiewicz
ul. Chmielna 10 / Warszawa
+48 22 827 9360
Brunon Kaminski
ul. Nowz Swiat 22 / Warszawa
+ 48 22 826 7024
Jan Kielman
ul. Chmielna, 6 / Warszawa
+48 22 828 4630
http://www.kielman.pl/index_e.php
Jan Wiel¹dek
ul. Marsza³kowska 41 / Warszawa
+48 22 621 5407
I really look forward to hearing from you Miguel
Raphael
ps: unfortunately the Jan Kielman pictures you posted at the London Lounge photojournal are unavailable - I do not know why, do you?
#16 2006-03-18 12:19:28
- le.gentleman
- Member
- Posts: 28
Re: Edward Green bespoke
Sorry,I don't know any Eastern European non EU bespoke shoemakers. There are only a few eastern European countries left that are non EU - Russia, Ukraine, Belarus, Romania, Bulgaria, Moldavia Yugoslavia and Turkey.Turkey, Romania and Bulgaria are in negotiations with the EU.
Why do you search for non EU countries - want to pay less money 
? The problem in the Eastern European non EU countries will be that they only have low quality materials to work with - so forget about that.
Kielman is supposed to be top of the notch in the Eastern Hemisphere - half of the commy elite had their shoes made at Kielman
ps: I got to know the adresses of all the bespoke shoemakers mentioned above as well as the following link from bengal stripe
http://www.grailtrail.ndo.co.uk/Grails/shoe.html
Last edited by le.gentleman (2006-03-18 12:22:38)
#17 2006-03-18 13:33:33
- bwep
- Member
- Posts: 13
Re: Edward Green bespoke
I am meeting with Tony Monday for the first fitting of a my uppers. I am thinking of a Monk strap or double Monk as my second pair of bespoke EG's.
#18 2006-03-18 15:55:12
- Incroyable
- Member
- Posts: 2310
Re: Edward Green bespoke
For Eastern European makers there is Mario Herzog located in Slovenia , Maribor. Their number is 386-441-442.
Last edited by Incroyable (2006-03-19 01:44:16)
Jukebox Babe
#19 2006-03-19 01:42:10
- Cruz Diez
- Member
- Posts: 1950
Re: Edward Green bespoke
Hallo Raphael,
es freut mich sehr, dass du Kielman besuchen wirst.
I promise I'll get back to you soon with the answers to your questions!
Grüße,
Miguel
#20 2006-03-19 05:56:09
- le.gentleman
- Member
- Posts: 28
Re: Edward Green bespoke
Lieber Miguel,
du sprichst Deutsch?! Fluently? that's fantastic!
I already read your report at the LL on how you dealt with him for the first time. I want a very elegant last à la Gaziano, Corthay, Gomez or Suzuki - I can provide him with a bunch of pictures for every detail I want
Did you deal with Maciej Kielman himself when you were there? As I want to talk about the last and explain how exactly I want the shoe to be, it would be great to deal with him. I already read that he is absolutely willing to do whatever you want him to do - but you better should know what you are looking for - so he seems to be perfect for me!
I already sent them a short email and Monika answered immediately. I hope the shoes will fit without having a trial shoe made... what do you think?
Does a shoe also starts at 400 € for calfskin when I order at their shop? Or is this a special online price ?
Best regards,
Raphael
#21 2006-03-20 12:02:03
- The_Shooman
- A pretty face
- From: AUSTRALIA
- Posts: 13179
Re: Edward Green bespoke
Look what l found. Edward Green is ceasing bespoke operations.
http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=12615
#24 2006-03-21 13:45:23
- le.gentleman
- Member
- Posts: 28
Re: Edward Green bespoke
Kielman for example has a bunch of domestic leathers but you won't get that in Bosnia etc.
There are 4 bespoke shoemakers in Warsaw - I will try to visit them all and tell you whether they have good leather qualities - but probably there will be a language problem...