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#1 2006-05-13 14:01:39

bwep
Member
Posts: 13

R Meledandri

I was wondering if anyone knew Roland Meledandri or his store that is credited for introducing Ralph Lauren to "style."  Did anyone shop with him?

 

#2 2006-05-13 15:57:37

bwep
Member
Posts: 13

Re: R Meledandri

Thankyou Mr Grayson.  RL worked for and became quite close to Roland and his wife.  He left the store to embark on personal projects, but not on very good terms.

 

#3 2006-05-13 16:29:50

bwep
Member
Posts: 13

Re: R Meledandri

I believe he also outfitted the likes of Tony Bennett, Henry Ford, Steve McQueen,  and Teddy Kennedy.  I understand that the gentleman who was bald with a waxed head and handlebar mustache sold Italian suits and fashion forward items, but still gave RL a model or icon to fashion himself on.  I have still heard that he would do shaped English suits and hacking jackets.

 

#4 2006-05-13 17:20:12

beantown
Member
Posts: 55

Re: R Meledandri

i find the following interesting in light of the fallout the two have had:                              www.madisonavenuenyc.com/ASK/suits01.html . Also I have been told that Meledrandri made the most beautifu courderoy suit you can imagine

 

#5 2006-05-13 19:15:02

bwep
Member
Posts: 13

Re: R Meledandri

Mr Grayson:  Gross' book is an interesting read, not just about RL, but to learn some of the history of modern day trad clothing (ie Norman Hilton and Leo Lazzi etc).  I read the book some time ago with hope that I could learn more about RL's relationships with Berrie, St Andrews, Lorenzini etc...  It was lacking in his current or more recent relations.  Nevertheless, an interesting read and look into RL. I understand now why RLPL does not fit me as well as other clothing lines...

 

#6 2006-05-14 04:50:49

beantown
Member
Posts: 55

Re: R Meledandri

marc, the dispute with il pagliacci is all about the benjamins. Have you ever seen a Meledandri garment as I have not and would be curious. By the way in Giovanni's opinion the best dressed man that he worked with was the late Steve Ross ( of Time Warner fame )

 

#7 2006-05-15 11:42:38

The Count de MTM
Member
Posts: 30

Re: R Meledandri

beantown wrote:

marc, the dispute with il pagliacci is all about the benjamins. Have you ever seen a Meledandri garment as I have not and would be curious. By the way in Giovanni's opinion the best dressed man that he worked with was the late Steve Ross ( of Time Warner fame )

What are the origins of this il pagliacci business? Is it a funny story?

Last edited by The Count de MTM (2006-05-15 11:43:02)

 

#8 2006-05-21 08:20:26

neene
Member
Posts: 11

Re: R Meledandri

hi,
i am nina, Roland's daughter.  marc had written to me asking for any anecdotes, etc. that might be of interest to a forum and i stumbled on the site through my own searches. it is an interesting time for me to find this as i am currently packing up the home and studio i have had for 25 years and needless to say there are a lot of memories resurfacing, especially since at one point (when i was a photographer) i started a book of portraits (with a lot of support from George Lois, the brilliant and famous "ad man" also a client & friend of my father's) of my father's clientele, it's what i am packing up right now...
as i wrote to marc, i am very pleased (and touched) that my father and his influence is still alive and i will try to contribute as long as people are interested.  needless to say the stories & memories are endless and as i am neck deep in boxes i need to stay focused on that project.  but because i am a bit nuts, i am photographing as i pack, so i will try to include some snaps.
I do want to corect one thing, Ralph did not work for my father.  in the beginning he repped a tie company and came to Roland with his product.  i believe my father redesigned some of his ties to be wider and bought them for the store, he and Ralph did become friends.  it is no secret that Ralph has been brilliant at marketing the many influences in his life; from the american west to the english countryside; i will just say that my father was also one of those influences. 
nina

btw, when i was photographing his friends i heard over and over that the garment they still have (though can no longer wear) is their tuxedo's

 

#9 2006-05-21 10:22:45

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9059

Re: R Meledandri

Welcome Nina,

I liked what you already wrote and would be eager to see more. In some cases being interested in clothes and style has a lot in common with the nostalgia of baseball. We live and play in the present but we honor the past.


Le costume fait sur mesure en tissue Fresco est le préféré des ploucs!
Facebook: FNB Dandy  Twitter: @DevilsIslandFNB Instagram: fnbdandy

 

#10 2006-05-22 18:54:19

bwep
Member
Posts: 13

Re: R Meledandri

Thankyou for the insight.

 

#11 2006-05-25 18:30:46

Vaclav
Member
Posts: 1321

Re: R Meledandri

neene wrote:

btw, when i was photographing his friends i heard over and over that the garment they still have (though can no longer wear) is their tuxedo's

Neene,

can we see the photos, someplace?

 

#12 2006-05-27 20:20:28

neene
Member
Posts: 11

Re: R Meledandri

it's not a loss of interest, just that this is a particularly stressful period time-wise and i need to guard against my very unfortunate habit of getting lost on-line. 

In answer to the some things raised:

salon: the store was often thought of that way, it was definitely a gathering place, especially on saturday afternoon's and it tended to attract people connected with the movie & advertising industries (which overlapped quite a bit anyway since many art directors and photographers of that time eventually went into film).  many of the people who hung out at the store would convene later at elaine's.  at some point i will try to post the list i was working from for my book but since that was pre-digital, it will take some time.  off the top of my head, some of the people i photographed were (in no particular order): Dan Melnick, Billy Dee Williams, Mayor John Lindsay, Richard Benjamin, Richard Meier, George Lois, Noel Behn, Carmen Capalbo, George Segal, Joel Schumacher, David Susskind, Art Kane, Steve Horn, David Z. Goodman.

my memories: well, i certainly don't have an adult perspective, the time i spent in the store was mostly during high school but i did spend a lot of time there.  it was a very comfortable place for me which is a bit surprising since i was an extremely shy kid and it was such a social environment.  i think what attracted me to it was that my father was so in his element there, he really had an incredible sense of style and here he was surrounded by people who not only appreciated his clothes but relied on his eye.  in some ways his interaction with his clients was like a performance, not that it was contrived or in any way disingenuous  but in the sense that it drew you in, watching him oversee a fitting and then accessorize the suit seemed like magic to me

designer/tailor: it is true that my father was a designer not a tailor nor did he have any training in that craft. but he intuitively understood clothing and what made a successful garment.  he could look at a pattern and know what was wrong with it and he was a total perfectionist when it came to the finished product, something that i think was particularly important to his clientele.  his expression manifested itself not only in the style and fit of his clothes (the proportions) but also in his choice and combinations of colors and textures.

photos: when i get to packing that box, i will try photographing the prints, again none of this is digitalized and unfortunately nobody was wearing his clothes for the photos i took (i didn't start the project until a few years after he died).  also i will try to shoot some of the press clippings that i have

it is actually easier for me to answer questions or comment on things raised here, since my recollections are going to run the gambit of (somewhat) objective to highly subjective.

one (possibly) little known fact: my father loved shoes and could not refrain from buying them for the store even though he always lost money on them.  he would often say of a shoe that it was "so ugly it was beautiful".

Last edited by neene (2006-05-27 20:22:29)

 

#13 2006-05-27 20:45:16

Vaclav
Member
Posts: 1321

Re: R Meledandri

Neena,

This is very interesting, and something bittersweet. Nostalgia perhaps, as FNB said.

Is their a secret warehouse some place, with clothes left unsold from the store?

 

#14 2006-05-28 01:54:57

Tomasso
Member
Posts: 598

Re: R Meledandri

Marc Grayson wrote:

Former New York mayor John Lindsay would have to be the most elegant mayor in New York history

Mayor Walker was quite the dandy but maybe a bit too flamboyant to be truly elegant.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e141/tmgco/1351.jpg

 

#15 2006-05-28 11:09:35

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9059

Re: R Meledandri

neene wrote:

one (possibly) little known fact: my father loved shoes and could not refrain from buying them for the store even though he always lost money on them.  he would often say of a shoe that it was "so ugly it was beautiful".

That's very interesting. i wonder what he wouldve made of Vass shoes?


Le costume fait sur mesure en tissue Fresco est le préféré des ploucs!
Facebook: FNB Dandy  Twitter: @DevilsIslandFNB Instagram: fnbdandy

 

#16 2006-06-04 07:52:51

neene
Member
Posts: 11

Re: R Meledandri

these 2 garments were made for the Coty's, the men's fashion awards.  i believe joel grey modeled one of them and bobby banks who was the store's manager had modeled the other.  i wear both the jacket and the coat.  the suit was never completely finished for the show which is why the vest might look abit strange.  he did receive the award for one of these years, haven't gotten to that box yet

it is strange but most of the clothes that i have were made for my mother: some beautiful reefer coats with skirts, a long green velvet coat/dress with pants, a very fitted full skirted dress coat...

Last edited by neene (2006-06-04 13:59:35)

 

#17 2006-06-04 07:54:17

neene
Member
Posts: 11

Re: R Meledandri

oops
tried with code...
but it didn't work
how do you post images?

 

#18 2006-06-04 07:59:16

Vaclav
Member
Posts: 1321

Re: R Meledandri

neene wrote:

oops
tried with code...
but it didn't work
how do you post images?

Neena,

[img]stuff here[/img]

 

#19 2006-06-04 08:14:33

neene
Member
Posts: 11

Re: R Meledandri

http://static.flickr.com/55/159964894_773120cc37.jpg

http://static.flickr.com/64/159964738_165c7f8a97.jpg

http://static.flickr.com/65/159964902_533ad866a2.jpg


http://static.flickr.com/76/159964976_8997fdface.jpg   http://static.flickr.com/19/159964962_42a4527b44.jpg

http://static.flickr.com/57/159964705_bea0be6673.jpg

http://static.flickr.com/49/159964938_a46ef2f21a.jpg

http://static.flickr.com/60/159964729_fb81bff66a.jpg

Last edited by neene (2006-06-04 08:16:46)

 

#20 2006-06-04 08:17:12

neene
Member
Posts: 11

Re: R Meledandri

@ vaclav
thanks

 

#21 2006-06-04 09:42:47

bwep
Member
Posts: 13

Re: R Meledandri

beautiful details

 

#22 2006-06-04 09:51:05

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 12919

Re: R Meledandri

Neene: great pictures of some very beautiful clothing. That top piece is amazing, l could spend alot of time looking at that dress.

Ronny.


Buff's Bastards......exposing message board inanity and keeping false GODS accountable since 2006!

Cooked food should be made illegal - Dr Jubb (Jubsy)

 

#23 2006-06-04 12:15:11

Vaclav
Member
Posts: 1321

Re: R Meledandri

Neena, do you wear these?

Can you speak, where your father had them made?

Thank you, as they are wonderful.

 

#24 2006-06-04 14:06:54

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9059

Re: R Meledandri

Im fascinated by all of this but at the risk of sounding out of the loop can you guys, Neene and Marc,  sort of tell us the Meledandri story? I think some of us who were unaware or too young might appreciate some summary of how he fits into things artistic and sartorial.

Neene, those really are some elegant clothes.


Le costume fait sur mesure en tissue Fresco est le préféré des ploucs!
Facebook: FNB Dandy  Twitter: @DevilsIslandFNB Instagram: fnbdandy

 

#25 2006-06-04 14:17:42

neene
Member
Posts: 11

Re: R Meledandri

They were made in the early 70's, (I would guess 70-73) in his custom tailoring shop that was upstairs from the store at 74 East 56th St.
And I do wear the coat (it's a little large) and the jacket, thankfully both men they were made for were rather small.

I do have a box with tons of press material and i will make an attempt to scan some before I pack it away.
I just glanced through it and showed it to my husband, I can say, without any bias that he was truly an elegant man.

I really do experience a huge connection with him in my day to day work, his love of both color and texture are quite evident in the way I express myself. 
Two of my favorite memories are:
us painting in watercolor on a rainy sunday in the country
(and for the past 7+ years I have kept daily watercolor journals)
and
helping him pick and redesign shirting materials for his retail store; adusting the size of a stripe or a color combination.


his silk pocket squares:

http://spd.fotologs.net/photo/13/42/79/neenna/1139638233_f.jpg

Last edited by neene (2006-06-04 15:12:00)

 

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