There are several approaches to develop an MTM suit pattern. The most common is to use a master pattern for the stock size you order (in this case, 42R), then adjust it to meet your measurements in key areas (namely: waist, chest, arm inseam, and hem length). The second method (for those who are technologically astute) is to "grow" or "shrink" a mater pattern using a commerical pattern drafting software - basically achieving the same result as a manual lay. The third method is to use the measurements you provide to draft a one-off pattern. I believe the one-off patterns are drafted using a mix of software and manual processes.

I don't like most of the software on the market because they never seem to get the scye, sleeve head, or crotch curve quite right. I Then, I haven't used the $10K Gerber suite in a small business - so, I can't speak to its performance. I have several manufacturers with whom I am acquainted who sing praises saying that the Gerber suite is excellent for grading patterns commercially. Though each of them also recommends that a commercial (i.e. RTW) pattern should be fitted on model and then the final pattern should be scanned into the system to be graded up and down. Very few recommend relying whole-heartedly on patterndrafting software to cast the foundation pattern.

Cutting may be automated at some plants, but CAM equipment is very expensive (e.g. in excess of several hundred thousand dollars). So, I can say with a degree of certainty that MTM maufacturers are likely not using CAM equipment. I mean, the only manufacturer that I have ever head of scanning a client's body and then using CAM equipment to cut the pattern directly on the cloth with lasers was Levi's. And, they put that project on the back burner because it had technical failings as well as marketing issues.

RTW is pretty straight forward, but too long to detail, here. RTW patterns are referred to as blocks. They are developed based on a standard set of measures (these are regulated and updated annually) and then fit to 'fit models' (someone whose body shape meets these standards). I'm working on putting together an illustration of the process of developing a commercial pattern (very technical) - but, it's a while off and will be used for teaching purposes. Though, you can email me and I will share the highlights with you when it's complete: jcsprowls@declansteed.com.

Blocks tend to be fitted less precisely than bespoke so the RTW suit can accomodate minor fitting fluctuations for a group of wearers. MTM is more labor-intensive than RTW because one cannot stack 100 plies of fabric and cut a size 42 suit, for example (that's not quite how it's done, but close enough for illustration purposes). In MTM, one must spread only the necessary yardage for one suit, adjust the block pattern in key areas, chalk, cut, and then pass the cut suit over to be made and trimmed.

Die cutting is one method. Though, I've only seen suits cut with a knife (similar to a large jig saw). Leather goods are typically die cut. But, American Apparel in Los Angeles cuts T shirts using automated equipment that happens to die cut. Check out their website for an overview of some production methods. AA uses technology to keep their production costs down - but, it makes sense for the scale of their operation.

I can illustrate how to cut an MTM suit from an RTW block, later, if that's of interest. But, that's a few months out, too as I need to get back in the studio.

My Oxxfords were all mtm and would accomodate two size adjustments easily. This is also standard for their rtw garments. I had a serious illness, lost weight, then eventually began training powerlifters. The resulting body changes, particularly through the shoulders, upper back, and hips were easily accomodated.  My Hickey Freemans allowed for  the same adjustments, whether rtw or mtm.  Hickey may have changed this practice now, but I doubt it. Other manufacturers like Coppley, Warren K. Cook and maybe Samuelsohn also leave enough room in the seams to accomodate such contingencies.

My Southwicks are not handcut, but are modified to allow for the carriage of my shoulders, simply lowering the collar and the pants are modified to allow for the way they are worn on my hips. Apparently, I got a lot of wrinkling in the front, according to Myles Thurston at Eljos, because I wore them lower in the front. This is taken into account when the suits are made, and my pants are cut to take this idiosyncracy into account. The jackets are also cut in actually a mid-long length, 32 inches from the bottom of the collar, rather than a standard 46l, which would be 1/2 inch longer.

Last edited by sweetbooness2 (2006-06-23 06:51:40)

I have had over a dozen made in the past two years or so. All of them have been through Eljos in Charlottesville. It is not Oxxford, or Hickey Freeman,  but overall ,I like the particular model of Southwick I wear, the Plymouth, very much. They have gone to half canvas, and machine cutting, but still make what I call a gentleman's suit, as opposed to the Oxxford/Hickey business suit. I expect to take delivery on my first Southwick db in a month or so.

As I have recently posted on this board though, I am seriously thinking of going the bespoke route. I recently had a very pleasant phone conversation with Mr. Winston at Winston Tailors.

Last edited by sweetbooness2 (2006-06-25 09:06:14)