If you look at the US West Coast 1950's through a glass effervescently, you will find East Coast/Ivy aesthetics at play. The musicians were sartorially inspired from the East Coast/Ivy style. They just jazzed it up a little bit.

The Dot.com/Silican valley geeks, have always dressed in a manner to break the industrialised might and old vested interests of the East Coast; by subverting their dress norms. Sadly without style, but that comes with the territory of being a computer geek.

Last edited by g- (2010-12-04 08:17:07)

I'd say the sack coat and the buttondown collar are the uniquely American elements. You're right, though, the rest is definitely up for grabs. I dislike a buttondown with a suit, for instance, except a poplin or a heavy winter suit. (Less formal all around.)

I'll take a twin-vented darted English jacket that fits me over a sack that doesn't every time. And the Pleat Paranoia is just silly.

And finally, please remember kids, the OPH is satire. A gag. Get it? Taking it literally is like believing in Lilliput.

The only authorative definition we have of what Trad is is Harris' -

It comes from post 169 of the 'American/Trad' thread on the AAAT forum that I later trolled into being in '06:

"As a Yankee (and NYC suburbanite) who nonetheless appreciates what has been said about the South's ongoing appreciation of sartorial etiquette, I do feel compelled to make an observation.

That observation is that while the South may be traditional and "coat-and-tied" all the way (my travels throughout the South confirm this), I'm not sure there's an abiding appreciation for what I understand as the authentically Trad look. In fact--and please don't use this as an occasion for stone-throwing--I'm fairly confident that most well-dressed Southerners I know have not a clue as to the difference between (mere) "traditional dress" and the unique look that is Trad.

Yes, Southerners may "dress up" more frequently, but I've seen many a "well dressed Southerner" wearing darted sportcoats, pleated trousers, and wide ties. While the fabric may have been sufficiently appropriate (tweed, seersucker, moleskin), the cut was not at all Trad. Someone mentioned that Aldens could be seen on the feet of W&L students. I don't doubt that, but in my experience there are only a couple of shoes in the whole Alden inventory that fit nicely under the category of American Trad...and Brooks has carried those two styles longer than anyone. Alden extended the scope of their inventory, no doubt in response to those who refused to wear nothing more than tassels and high-vamped penny's in color 8 shell cordovan.

I'm sure I'll received some criticism for this observation, but I think it should be noted that Trad, at least as I understand it, is quite narrow in scope--to the point of frustrating those unschooled in the look. Maybe this will serve to illustrate my point: A shetland sweater in heather pink is Trad; a cashmere sweater in the same shade of pink is not, nor is a shetland is brown or charcoal. A wide-waled cord in kelly, pink, or a maize yellow is Trad, but not if it's pleated. And a plain front cord in brown is, well, "just another cord." If/when one is forced to wear a staid ensemble consisting of charcoal, tan, navy, or brown, then the way of Trad is to spruce it up with vibrant grosgrain pastels (no dark leather, thanks very much). At least that's the way I've learned, but then I'm a hopelessly committed student to the New England/Mid-Atlantic Trad I learned long ago.

Trad is about VERY traditionally cut/styled clothing in VERY traditional fabrics...yet in bold, vibrant colors. If/when Trad is reduced to (mere) "traditional dress," anything can be said to fit under the category, including a lot of truly boring stuff.

For the record, I've seen the authentically Trad look (at its best) only on the Upper East Side, suburban NYC, and New England vacation spots. In fact, I'm tempted to think of the look as unique to the Mid-Atlantic and New England. Southerners may "dress up," but pleated Duckheads, a darted Corbin blazer, and a striped bowtie in a matte color do not qualify as Trad.

A longtime New York family (the Prenners) brought New England Trad to the South, for which many Southerners are thankful.

Respectfully,
Harris "


http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?34490-American-Trad/page7

Harris starts trolling AAAC in Mid-September of '04 - This post is from the end of October of that year, about a month & a half into 'Trad'.

If you do not agree 100% with the above post then you aren't Trad. Harris says so, not me. And Harris should know.

Harris' 'Trad' is certainly very different to the original Japanese term that Flusser used (correctly) in one of his books & Tom quoted (correctly) on the old "Go Preppy" site. The problems start when Harris misuses the term and even less knowledgeable AAAC posters get sucked into the game too.   Mea Culpa 

'Trad' is a meaningless term.

But don't the Little League love it?

The Ivy League fans remain unconvinced.

... That Manton fellow was a 'Trad' supporter - Said it was all real & true, he did. Style Forum bought into it all too... And then there's AAAC....

So many people that know all about clothes turn out to know... not so much actually.

Oh dear.

I always thought his description of the (fake) Choatie was interesting. I think a good case could be made for Trad being a dandy sort of style and I would be just fine with that. The current Trads have banal-ized the thing down to a bland, safe style comfortable for frumpy, dumpy, lower middle class strivers with no charisma or taste. If the original Trad hadn't been fake, I'd be upset. They took the beauty and fun out of the thing.

Choatie, I believe, was the father of Preppy.

Kinda.

'Trad' remains without a father. Such a bastardised 'style'.