That book is my bible for Minet info. along with an old chum I visit in Paris. £200 is madness though, it makes me want to sell my copy.

Interesting about Falconnable. I remember the brand from the 80's & wish I'd paid them more attention now. The idea of a French Brooks is very interesting.

I'm sure you know 'Jocks & Nerds' for the 'Joe College' chapter too. Some nice pics in there.

Best -

Last edited by Russell_Street (2008-04-14 03:41:34)

The business!

Fantastic BD too.

Cheers!

I think the 4 and then 2 at the sides is the pertect graduated length. Up top the choice to go 6 or the longer 8 is just a personal one. I used to wear a 6/4 a lot. Going shorter than a 6 up top I think would move you into a different arena - Less Suedehead & more on the borders of Peanut/Skinhead style.

Another small point is the length of the sideburns. I'd say D.'s were spot on. You need something in front of the ears, but not so much that you call too much attention to them.

A very nice clean, hard, smart look. Pared down cool.

Peter York wrote about "The Ruthless Roman" haircut around '84 in his essay on Graphic Designer's style in 'Modern Times'. It was the brushed forward crop which many designers used to wear back then. The stylist & hairdresser Trevor Sorbie (who invented the Soul Boy wedge cut, initially for clubby girls) wore his hair in this style at the time.

http://www.trevorsorbie.com/templates/tmpl_category.php?templateid=1&pageid=106

It's a style (The Ruthless Roman) I've been seeing 'round Paris quite a bit on men of a certain age & I suspect comes from the Gerry Mulligan brushed forward crop of the 50's. Another Jazz connection!

http://www.jazzinamerica.org/images/photos/full/19.jpg

Here's Caligila (A very Ruthless Roman) with a longer version:

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/1/15/Gaius_Caligula_Head.jpg

And here's Augustus in a similar mode:

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/aa/Aug11_01.jpg

J.

Last edited by Russell_Street (2008-04-16 03:55:04)

Sorry, Russell I have been working too hard lately - well by my standards.....so only just caught up with this.

My barber used a 'bat' to get the desired look.  842 is a new term to me.  The bat was a flat wide device a bit like a table tennis bat but with tapered teeth.  This was placed on your bonce and moved skillfully around while the barber used his clippers to achieve an end result very much like your description.  This would have been 1968/69 but I recall that by 1970 hair was getting that bit longer and now being cut with scissors in the conventional way.

I 'discovered' the Squire Shop first, in the late summer of 1969 and then became a regular visitor as you know until the early 70s.  During that period 1969 - 1971 I rarely shopped anywhere but the Squire Shop in Brewer St, Ivy Shop, Village Gate and Quincy.  My look would have approximated that in the OP but I do not recall the t shirt under the shirt thing. 

Daytime in Spring summer would be BD in a check or stripe with short or long sleeve and often worn outside the trousers if it had an American stamp on the tail saying 'soil release' or similar; sta-prest or jeans (Levis or Lee Riders); plain or brogue Royals with a sock that brought in a colour from the shirt (not an exact match of course)

Evening still demanded a suit - perhaps a black and white dogtooth (often bespoke from a local tailor) plus long sleeve OCBD and narrow tie with plains or tassel loafers (late 1970)  Pocket square secured with a pin.

Great thread

Is the Flowbee, Trad ?

Chums,

Speaking of that short essay on the Ivy Shop, I'm still deciding whether to get the "navy" Harrington (which doesn't seem a "navy" color to me) or the darker than "navy" blue.  The tan or natural, I never could see wearing but I should.

Show me the other website that can link Caligula to Gerry Mulligan via Trevor Sorbie!

Mr. Horace - Maybe the Dark Blue is best for you. 'Navy' is more 'Bright Navy' or maybe 'French Navy'.

Mr. Richmond - Big Boss Posting!  Top!!!!!

Mr. Heikki - I know you never left the faith. But it's good to have you singing with the choir once more.

Let's roll this on -

Avanti!

Jim

BH,
I believe that Gibsons were another brand from Royals. I can remember them in black, brown and cordovan colour. A very classy shoe and something different. I also think that Lotus shoes got involved in making loafers around that time.

Also to add another dimension. During the 60's one of the big social stompinng grounds was Tottenham Royal and it attracted a lot Mods and their later derivatives. People used to say that is where the name for the shoe came from. A coincedence

RH

Last edited by H. Logg (2008-04-17 08:06:39)

This should be of interest I think :

http://rockpopfashion.com/blog/?p=80