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#1 2008-06-28 11:34:54

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?

I am a fan of the Traditional American style of dress. This is why I grumble when I see it given new names and new interpretations on the Internet.
To be honest this endearing foible of mine is someting I've lived with since 1981 and the arrival of my specially imported (by Hatchards, Piccadilly, London, W1) copy of "The Official Preppy Handbook"... But even before then I was grumpy when I first read about the book in my big sister's Harpers & Queen...

Can any fellow enthusiasts of what was once called the Ivy League style help to cheer me up?

Can anybody also agree with me that it's news to them that it's no longer called the Ivy League style?

I've no desire to be elitist or to exclude anybody from this style of dress, but I would like to see the fans of this style stand up and not just join in with this Internet 'Trad' business because "It's the best we have at the moment".

I don't believe 'Trad' is "the best we have at the moment". In fact I'd submit that 'Trad' is preventing us from having the best we could be having at the moment.

Is that an unreasonable point of view? Could we not collectively see 'Trad' for what it is and get back in touch with the roots & soul of Traditional American style and leave AAAT to the Internet fantasists?

Time passes by so quickly and I can't help feeling that we're wasting it by keeping 'Trad' going. Let it be there for the newbies as a way in, but please after 6 months could everybody then move on?



Thank you for reading -

James.

 

#2 2008-06-28 15:59:33

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?

Can I be a fan of preppy style?

It's a bit silly but I like the colors and the casual air.

 

#3 2008-06-28 17:30:10

shuman
Member
Posts: 184

Re: Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?

 

#4 2008-06-28 23:26:42

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?

 

#5 2008-06-29 00:01:21

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?

Last edited by Russell_Street (2008-06-29 00:05:22)

 

#6 2008-06-29 07:16:18

DB
Member
Posts: 216

Re: Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?

Discovering "Trad" helped me to learn about the Ivy League style.  I was vaguely aware of it and certainly didn't grow up with it.  The more I have learned, the more I enjoy and have shifted clothing purchases accordingly (Press and O'Connells over RL and Neiman Marcus).  I have found that the 3/2 sack can have what I appreciate it suits (natural shoulders with some waist suppression).  However, I do appreciate other elements of Trad such as the more colorful aspects of preppy.  I also enjoy pleated pants and double cuff shirts as well.

 

#7 2008-06-29 08:17:40

shuman
Member
Posts: 184

Re: Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?

Last edited by shuman (2008-06-29 08:20:18)

 

#8 2008-06-29 11:06:44

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?

 

#9 2008-06-29 15:23:17

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?

Never 'eard of it.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#10 2008-06-29 18:08:07

longwing
Member
Posts: 198

Re: Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?

Definitely a fan of the look. I like calling it trad. Just a name. A neighbor of mine, from Boston, told me I looked very New England the other day. He can call it that if he wants. Won't get an argument from me.

 

#11 2008-06-30 00:59:22

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?

You youngsters!  wink

I have been burrowing ever deeper into my old Brooks and Press catalgues since we last spoke and am hugely enjoying the Brooks 'Generations of Style' book as kindly donated by Mr. Richmond Hill.

- Primary sources, dontcha know.

As ever I am struck by the richness & variety of the real tradition of the American look. Brooks I notice used a fascinating assortment of different fabrics and textures in their offerings including Velour (a material forbidden by the OPH) and Terry cloth. Variety and innovation is the real tradition of this style.

Flux.

I think I might sign off my posts with the word flux from now on to remind the world that not all traditions are old and dry and dusty. The American tradition is quite the opposite.

- Flux!

 

#12 2008-06-30 07:08:37

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?

I'd like to take a little poll about Traditional/Classic American style if I may -

Are you a 'Trad' or a Traditionalist?

- They are very different things you know.

Press the Red button now.

- Flux!

 

#13 2008-06-30 07:29:05

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?

 

#14 2008-06-30 08:01:08

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13179

Re: Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?

l don't mind the Ivy League style l see in the old black and white pictures. Looks quite masculine. But when l see a bunch of drips on forums wearing rags and girly men wearing colourful butterflys and multi colours on their  belts, l just laugh and roll my eyes. As i've said, Ivy photo's look great. AAAT = big clown boys playing dress ups.

Last edited by The_Shooman (2008-06-30 08:02:15)

 

#15 2008-06-30 08:23:17

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?

Yeah, let's move on -

 

#16 2008-07-01 04:43:09

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?

My Kinda guy from the Ol' PM service:


"Your point about the variety inherent in the clothes is, of course, well-taken, and something I've tried to say myself: the markers have tended to vary by locale and, to some extent, taste.  I myself have always cared more about shoulders, lapels, and cuffs than about darts and pleats.  No doubt this is inherited from my dad (who owned, I might add, several Brooks wool-blend glen-plaid suits back in the 70's); these were the details he cared about and he taught me what to look for.

"Trad" is, of course, its own style -- whether one likes the style or not -- but it could be a jumping-off point for a broader look at late-century American clothes.  Sadly, though, the Internet being what it is, Trad needs its rules to prevent the encroachment of other styles at either end of the spectrum.  I don't begrudge the Trads their rules, but as we've discussed before, they do not equal either the historical look in all its permutations, nor a truly workable wardrobe for today. (This puts the Trads in the uncomfortable position of either denying the Continental-cut suits and Levis in their closets, or worse, proclaiming them, like penitents in search of an indulgence.)  But I understand your desire to look deeper and to have a more nuanced appreciation, one that transcends "preppy" (though preppy is part of the look, too).

Me, I wear what I always wear.  Sometimes I get tired of my clothes and wish I had more imagination, but like the man says, I am what I am.  I like well-worn khakis and old oxfords, faded polos and beat-up Weejuns.  I like good cigars, going sockless, and watching my kids play in the yard at twilight.  I like a grilled steak, jazz on the stereo, and a bottle of Napa cab.  I like going fishing, but don't care much if I catch anything.  I don't like spending time with people who are overly impressed with themselves, or feel they've got something to prove."


What's not to like about a guy like that?


My kind of people.  Join us!

 

#17 2008-07-01 10:50:17

mike
Member
From: Covington, KY
Posts: 1397

Re: Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?


You love him? He is hephaistion.

 

#18 2008-07-01 23:05:10

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?

Anything to oblige, Mike. Here is a voice from the South:

"Alright, Mr. Frost-Mellor, I’m in.  Like Longwing, I’m not sure I really qualify, but I am very interested in what you have to say.  Your remarks on being a “traditionalist” really hit home because I have described myself in the very same way, both often and recently. 

Frankly, I could never see myself as “Trad”: I can’t even type it without quotation marks.  Nobody I know would have the slightest idea what I was talking about, and I still don’t know what it means myself.  I have enjoyed the AAAT forum in the year or so I have participated, but it is certainly much diminished since I first ran across it.  The long-time practitioners of traditional American dress have fallen away, and the frequent posters seem to be youngsters who don’t have any idea what they’re talking about. 

I am very interested in your ideas on the day-to-day viability of Ivy League style in the early 21 Century.  The Sports Illustrated adverts that Tony Ventresca has been posting are really incredible stuff, but I think those skinny silhouettes and lapels would look as archaic as  frock coats and top hats for mainstream wear today.  Derivatives of that look, ala J. Press, sure.  But the real stuff, (unless you’re recreating The Dick Van Dyke Show) no way.

In the Southern US, the vestiges of the Ivy Style are as strong as anywhere I know of.  But it’s been influenced by the preppy craze of the 80’s and an organic white bucks and bow tie element that I think is uniquely Southern.  Men become indoctrinated in the style not through attendance at Ivy League schools, but through the Greek systems at the large, primarily State-operated universities.  I am a product of that environment, and I recognize Longwing and Tucker as products of that environment as well, and there are others.  Moreover, I’ve noticed time after time that the folks who dress like I do in my hometown tend to have similar interests in history, historic preservation and genealogy.  In short, traditionalists."

 

#19 2008-07-01 23:10:02

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?

And a voice from Philly:

"... ... My point about the Sebagos isn't so much that they were priced lower than the Bean model, but rather that they were widely available, so that's mostly what people wore.  In the Seventies and Eighties, in certain areas at least, it was easy to find stores that carried shoes by the Big Three (Sebago, Sperry, and Bass), Lacoste pullovers, rubberized outerwear, imported fair-isle and Shetland sweaters, turtlenecks in a variety of colors and patterns, et cetera.  People shopped Bean largely (though not exclusively) for the things no one else had: the field coat, Bean boots, Norwegian sweaters, the "anorak" pullover, boat-n-tote bags.  Likewise, Lands End was the source for heavyweight rugby shirts, cheap but decent buttondowns, and the "Squall" jacket.  It's often seemed to me that Bean and Lands End grew their businesses largely by becoming the source for stuff one used to buy at local places like Pappagallo, Jacob Reeds, the Chestnut Hill Bootery, Strawbridge & Clothier, Eastern Mountain Sports, etc, but eventually could no longer find without effort.  (Also, they've done a reasonably good job of holding the line on quality during a time when many of the others have gone precipitously downhill.)  Certainly mail-order is far more commonplace now than it was twenty years ago.

My hair, which has started to thin out a bit on top, is cut conservatively: short on the sides and in back, slightly longer on top (which I "style" by running my fingers through it while wet), with short, squared-off sideburns and a tapered back.  The same barber has cut my hair for over a decade, and we've developed a kind of shorthand: when I say "summer" cut, she goes slightly shorter; the "winter" version a little longer.  Unfortunately, I've not paid much attention to exactly how she does any of this, and would not be willing to chance it with any of the other barbers, so I have to wait for her to get back from vacation.

By the way, I completely missed the Wang contest on AAAT, but went back this morning to see what it was about.  The less said about Marmot or whatever his name is, the better.  Putting aside Brownshoe, who ought to have won, these are the pictures I like:

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm14…1214171170
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h297/binderb1/kw5.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii4/…adras2.jpg
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm14…1214171447
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii4/…adras1.jpg
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h49/y…CN0241.jpg


There's really nothing special about these outfits (except maybe the last one, by "Topsider", which I mostly like for its Squire-like composition and the accessories); they just look like the sort of thing I like to wear -- minus the ribbon watchbands, that is. 

Intrigued by your proposed new MB, or whatever it is.  Have you given up on improving Trad?  Decided its time to circle the wagons?"

Last edited by Russell_Street (2008-07-01 23:18:19)

 

#20 2008-07-02 01:49:57

Moose Maclennan
Ivy Inspiration
From: Hernando's Hideaway
Posts: 4577

Re: Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?

Members of cultures with national dress will know: The 'rules' of the look are always a combination of folklore, fashion  and romantic fantasy.
Does any of this sound familiar?

And, is it a bad thing?

 

#21 2008-07-02 06:52:31

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?

 

#22 2008-07-02 07:22:27

Moose Maclennan
Ivy Inspiration
From: Hernando's Hideaway
Posts: 4577

Re: Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?

 

#23 2008-07-02 07:40:45

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?

 

#24 2008-07-03 19:30:28

eg
Member
From: Burlington, ON
Posts: 1499

Re: Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?

 

#25 2008-07-04 06:24:32

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: Traditional American Style: Any Other Fans?

 
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