I remember this came from the Ivy Shop. Something about Elvis Presley's approach to the Ivy League Style... I stand corrected. Any more on this?
I remember some style icons on John Simons website, among them Fred Astaire, Montgomery Clift, Chet Baker, Miles Davis, I think John Coltrane and a few others...
Does anyone remember all of them?
I would like to make this a thread especially about the Jazz/ Hipster connection to the Traditional American Style. Pictures welcome!
"Jivey Ivy" is Elvis & Sammy Davis Jnr - Showbiz Ivy. Who else belongs with those two? It's Ivy with a lot of flash to it. Can Ivy be flash? Yes, if it's Jivey!
Sammy Davis Jnr is especially cited as being an exponent of Jivey Ivy in Paul Gorman's 'The Look'. The Elvis connection is a quote from the Baracuta website I think.
Do you say Jivey or Jivy, btw? I've seen it spelled both ways. Whatever, it's also described as 'Rat Pack cool' in The Look.
The Ivy styles of Astaire, Monty, Chet, Miles & Trane are different to Jivey Ivy - And also worth saying is that each of those men's takes on Ivy is different to each others too. Goodbye to the idea of there being just one look! The style changes with the person wearing it.
Other J. Simons style icons have been John Cassavetes in Rosemary's Baby, Paul Newman, Alistair Cooke... Who else has there been? The MJQ, John Cooper Clarke even (!) ... - And all of them with different takes on Ivy.
The Jazz/Hipster connection is another style again I think - Are you thinking of chaps like Kerouac?
You could do threads on all these guys and their different manifestations of The Look.
Andy Warhol - Commercial Atrtist, Artist also deserves furture research. Brooks Brothers customer and lover of OCBD Oxford shirts,
@Russell: So I will post another thread about the Jazz/ Hipster connection...
I think I got the difference... Miles Davis took the Ivy League style because he DID NOT want to dress in a FLASH way! He wanted to make a statement with his clothes: Here's an artist, he is dead serious about what he does, this is not an entertainer in a fancy costume, smiling for his audience, dancing for his massah!
This is not show business, this is not an outlandish Zoot suit pimp. This is music just as serious, just as intelligent, just as "high brow" as your "new music" composer stuff, just as good as your classical music, white boy! Miles choose the clean cut college style, because it was serious quality apparel and because it evoked a minimalist, thus modernist ideal of aesthetics and when he started to wear that gear, he changed its "meaning".
In other words, the Ivy League look could always have been associated with Wall Street, brokers, bankers, New England Old Money, bow-tied Profs with patches on their sports coats elbows, WASP and preppie conformism- the corny, conservative little world of SQUARE (Hello AAAC/Trad!)... but this association was not fair! There was so much more to these clothes!!! --> they were suddenly
------------------>>>SMART, CLEAN AND COOL<<<--------------------------
------------------>>>>SHARP, NEAT AND HIP<<<<---------------------------
Miles Davis transformed the Classic American Ivy League Style into genuine hipster style... the beginning of The Look. And all the other hipsters were impressed and many followed his lead, doing their own version of The Look. Because The Look is not for squares- it is not for people who need a rule book about it, no son, no, no, iGents... it is about an individual approach to a democratic style. Ivy League Style has many facets, it has a huge potential, and it is open for interpretation:
Old Money, aspirational middle class office monkey or a subtle cool?
Jivy Ivy on the other hand, is Ivy League Style for entertainment people: Elvis in a G9 or with pullover sweater...sharkskin mohair Rat Pack Suits (but with a natural shoulder...). In other words: Ivy done FLASH!
@Richmond Hill: I will also post another thread about Warhol...