BulldogNH wrote:
Another quick question:
Who makes the best shirt to wear with a collar pin? A lot would depend, I guess, on how the collar is made. Some might be too long, or too wide. I've never really worn a pin, but I like the look.
Any shirt that has removable collar stays works well with a pin in my opinion, and I wear pins fairly regularly. You could probably have a tailor remove collar stays that aren't otherwise removable. I like to pin club collars but a pinned point collar looks great as well. The length of the point is a matter of personal taste, but make sure there is enough space for the tie; you want the pin to gently pull the 'blades' of the collar closer together and uplift the tie, so if there is too little tie space the pin won't look right.
Last edited by bandofoutsiders (2008-07-25 08:08:19)
michael-j wrote:
hello everyone, i just have a simple (hopefully quick) question (and searching turned up far too many results to look through) and it's why are suede shoes called 'bucks' in the US?
In higher grade shoes, suede is a misnomer for full grain reverse (sueded) calf. In other words, it's the underside of tanned and processed full grain leather used on the outside of the shoe. Unlined casual reverse grain calf shoes have a smooth interior and require no lining.
"Suede" is usually a heavily brushed or abraded split or top grain bovine leather. "Suede" can also be sheep, deer, pig or goat skin. Low grade pig suede exhibits small round marks where once were bristles. High grade "hogskin" peccary suede gloves also have bristle marks, go figure.
Subject to being completely mistaken: The original upscale versions were of reverse 'cape buck' leather. Cape is an endangered deer like species native to South Africa. Buck is a male. Captainpreppy could elaborate and/or correct.
I don't think even the bespoke bootmakers are able to use genuine cape buck nowadays. Brooks Bros bucks tween the wars would have probably been genuine cape buck.
"Bucks" in the US usually refers to white or dusty tan suede blucher shoes. They're often made of inexpensive sueded split cowhide. Better ones may be reverse full grain cow or calf. Expensive ones are sueded reverse full grain calfskin.
('Cape' skin gloves are actually the leather of hairsheep, rather than the endangered cape. It mimics cape characteristics)
Then again, one could be labouring under a misapprehension. Don't bet the trust fund on the preceding.
(Not responsible for spellling and/or grammer. SpellGram-chek malfunctioning)
Last edited by Howard (2008-07-25 14:57:05)
Sorry if I owe you a PM - I'm really swamped just now, but working on the problem.
This is a better way to get me: frostmellor@googlemail.com
I will catch up in due course.
I especially need to touch base with Subtle Cool & Trad to the Bone.
If email is a problem for you then let me know & I'll tell you how to set up free bogus email accounts. Hell, if I like you enough I'll even set them up for you & give them to you.
All that we are all doing is moving on.
The Jazz / Ivy article will be on the RL website soon and we are also building other bridges all over the place in all sorts of other directions too right now.
Hard Bop Hank & I will be in the NYC Financial Times soon talking about our loyalty to Ivy style & J. Press.
We have many more plans for the promotion of Classic Traditional American style which we are all working on too.
As for the rest - YOU have made this forum THE place for those really interested in OUR style. The feedback I've received from beyond the internet has been more than I could ever have hoped for.
My "Trad" forum on AAAC (Let's not pretend) is working well & my promotion of Ivy of Modculture has worked out well too. Recent Trad related postings on SF have once more caught people's attention and to be honest we are on a fucking roll right now.
Here's the deal: I help to make it possible because FNB allows me to and YOU all actually do it.
No leaders. No hierarchies. Everything since '04 has been all about the real fans of this style working to promote it & taking their fellow travellers along with them in the process.
Mods, Trads, Ivy Fans.
It makes me old heart glad the way it's all played out and YOU lot have done it all. My sincerest thanks to you all.
Avanti!
Jim
Last edited by Russell_Street (2008-09-04 09:52:52)
And FNB has been crucial to all of this. FACT.
We can only do so much by using 'trolling' techniques on the other heavily regulated forums. FNB allowed us to expand and take our plans out from down in the underground & up into a place where we could really celebrate our style and spread our wings.
My personal debt to the man is HUGE & he needs to know that.
Jim
Hard Bop Hank wrote:
Thanks! Maybe this Oxford/ Derby juxtaposition is a typical German thing, maybe a misunderstanding of British terms?
Any idea, about "Gibsons"? Something similar to bluchers?
Cheaney often refer to shoes with open lacing as a Gibson. I recently bought a pair of dark brown grain brogues with Dainite soles by Cheaney that I would call a country Derby but the box says 'Gibson'.
For more info on this subject this is a good thread from AAAC
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/foru … hp?t=64785
Trad To The Bone - Your inbox is full!
Much to update you on.
Best -
It is!? It says I'm only 10% full (he admits, making it clear he doesn't get many private messages).
Get me on AndyTrad, if better.
TB
Trad to the Bone wrote:
It is!? It says I'm only 10% full (he admits, making it clear he doesn't get many private messages).
Get me on AndyTrad, if better.
TB
Sorry - Must be my PM box that's playing up. I've asked Jeeves about it.
So tempted to 'out' a name on AndyTrad just for the fun of saying Hello, but I'd hate to lose a persona. I'm not sure how I stand with AK right now either...
I'll sort it & we'll chat.
All is well anyway, Brother.
I need to touch base with Egadfly too come to think of it...
So many chums in our web-wide community!
Re: Your last PM, my answer is that this style is OURS and you are a part of all that. We've come a long way & we intend going further.
It's happening!
... My inbox is at 1,961% right now...
I'm worried that I've broken it.
OK - Inbox fixed thanks to Mr. Jeeves. I now owe him so many beers that I'll have to buy him Fuller's...
'Inner Circle' Update:
1) The stand alone Ivy Style website project - It's happening. We have the name & are now working on the artwork. Bridges have been built & connectione made. It will be THE website for this style of ours combining all that we've ALL done - FNB, Modculture, SF (even!) and the 'Trad' forum. The new venture is open to all: Mods and Trads & Ivy fans. Not a troll venture, but a serious bit of work. Any forum aspect of it (if we even go down that route) will not be the point of it. It will be a resource for Ivy Style fans which will have clout!
2) The Ezine project - My fault, I need to chat to Neil Hendersen. My model for this is his 'The New Breed' mag, but done in a cyber form. I've started talking to John Gall about this. It's early days yet and I need to focus more.
3) The book project - Our author is on to meeting three with his publishers. This will be THE book on OUR subject and so it will take time. On a personal note - NOBODY is currently doing more on our team than our wordsmith. This will be his 5th book and the 'Labour of Love' aspect of it for him makes my old heart soar.
You like Ivy too? Then YOU are a part of all this.
Talk Ivy... Modculture... AAAT... We're only just gearing up, Brothers.
- Check my expression in the pics of me that big John Gall will be posting soon on the J. Simons website.
I'm as determined as fuck when it comes to all this.
This is my life.
Cue Dean: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l1hv4kXcTA4
... I ain't joking.
Jim
The perfect thread this. In fact it should be made a sticky!
Anyways guys, I'm off New York in Eight weeks, so I thought I'd start doing my home work on the place now. I've been before, but time was of the essence, so there wasn't much time to shop & play.
Can anyone give me any pointers on good vintage clothe shops, and the best place to buy some Levis, or more specifically LVC 501s 1947 XX?
In fact any info on any shops that may be of interest will be greatly appreciated. I'm there for Ten days this time with plenty of free time, so I plan on using it wisely!
Many thanks in advance fellas!
It shall be Stickied! (... If Jeeves will do it for me... I hate to bother him... But I always do...)
Nothing here is set in stone, Chaps. Let us know what you want & we'll get cracking.
Re: NYC, it's been a while for me. The rest of the gang will be more up to date than I.
Best Wishes & welcome to the home of the informed discussion this style on the Internet -
James.
Russell_Street wrote:
'Inner Circle' Update:
1) The stand alone Ivy Style website project - It's happening. We have the name & are now working on the artwork. Bridges have been built & connectione made. It will be THE website for this style of ours combining all that we've ALL done - FNB, Modculture, SF (even!) and the 'Trad' forum. The new venture is open to all: Mods and Trads & Ivy fans. Not a troll venture, but a serious bit of work. Any forum aspect of it (if we even go down that route) will not be the point of it. It will be a resource for Ivy Style fans which will have clout!
2) The Ezine project - My fault, I need to chat to Neil Hendersen. My model for this is his 'The New Breed' mag, but done in a cyber form. I've started talking to John Gall about this. It's early days yet and I need to focus more.
3) The book project - Our author is on to meeting three with his publishers. This will be THE book on OUR subject and so it will take time. On a personal note - NOBODY is currently doing more on our team than our wordsmith. This will be his 5th book and the 'Labour of Love' aspect of it for him makes my old heart soar.
You like Ivy too? Then YOU are a part of all this.
Talk Ivy... Modculture... AAAT... We're only just gearing up, Brothers.
I'm as determined as fuck when it comes to all this.
Jim
This seems like a worthwhile project. Count me in, somehow. I suggest forgetting a forum: too much opportunity for off-topic hijacks. This needs to be serious and damn anyone who doesn't like it.
THIS is the forum. Where else is there?
What will follow on the new website will be to try to lift all our enthusiasms for this style up on to another level.
THIS is the place for Forum discussions. What will be to follow will be the place for as many voices as we can find talking about their passion for Ivy/TNSIL/Trad/Whatever in a different way.
No forum politics, no point scoring, but the REAL fans sharing their love for OUR style.
No egos.
No 'Sainted' BS mythology.
On OUR site the style will be the star.
I want a dedicated site for the Ivy style which is nobody's vanity project... And it's happening as we speak.
FNB gave us the freedom to talk & grow. The next idea will be to strip what we do from self-created labels and 'curriculums' and to focus on what really drives us all on:
A Favourite Tie.
A Favourite Shirt.
A Favourite Jacket.
A Favourite Shoe.
I have already asked four of the best writers on OUR subject to submit pieces on the above to kick start OUR new website along with all the rest that is currently going on.
Two are amongst the best of the bloggers & two are very well regarded forum posters.
It's a start.
My time is limited so I don't have time to 'groom' the entire Internet right now. If you want in to all this then get yourself in yourself: frostmellor@googlemail.com.
This new project is YOURS, not mine. I'm just a cyber doorman for all this.
Best -
james
Brideshead wrote:
Hard Bop Hank wrote:
Thanks! Maybe this Oxford/ Derby juxtaposition is a typical German thing, maybe a misunderstanding of British terms?
Any idea, about "Gibsons"? Something similar to bluchers?Cheaney often refer to shoes with open lacing as a Gibson. I recently bought a pair of dark brown grain brogues with Dainite soles by Cheaney that I would call a country Derby but the box says 'Gibson'.
For more info on this subject this is a good thread from AAAC
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/foru … hp?t=64785
Thank you Brideshead! I will from now on talk about balmorals only, as this is an American board, interesting history stuff... I have read about this Admiral Blucher before, maybe I had already read this threat and just forgot about this...
Shoemakers, cobblers and shops over here, all use the English terminology, even those which sell Allen Edmonds, Sebago and Floorsheim...
It seems, that some use the word Gibson only for women's shoes, others use it synonymously with derby/ blucher? And then again, there might be some other definition...
I found this glossary/compendium inbetween... Very basic, but nice for a helpdesk...
http://www.dancestore.com/shoeterms-glossary.html
I still need help keeping on top of Mr. Longwing's links!
Anybody want the gig?
I just lack the time.
Best -
So:
The New Website is up: http://www.ivy-style.com/
The Ezine project is attracting interest.
The Book goes from strength to strength as our author works away.
... And 'Talk Ivy' goes from strength to strength too, IMO. Sadly we have lost The Style Councillor's input, but life will go on.
The Curriculum & AAAT also seem healthy enough with quite a few new names in Tradland over there.
HTJ is blogging again & the other Trad blogs remain a great source for different points of view on the style we all love.
We've all come a long way - Avanti!
Best -
jim
Russell_Street wrote:
So:
The New Website is up: http://www.ivy-style.com/
The Ezine project is attracting interest.
The Book goes from strength to strength as our author works away.
Excellent work chums. Some very good developments all around.
Russell_Street wrote:
So:
The New Website is up: http://www.ivy-style.com/
The Ezine project is attracting interest.
The Book goes from strength to strength as our author works away.
... And 'Talk Ivy' goes from strength to strength too, IMO. Sadly we have lost The Style Councillor's input, but life will go on.
The Curriculum & AAAT also seem healthy enough with quite a few new names in Tradland over there.
HTJ is blogging again & the other Trad blogs remain a great source for different points of view on the style we all love.
We've all come a long way - Avanti!
Best -
jim
Top Hole ol chum.
Gloriosum est iniurias oblivisci.
And in other Media news - Our team will be in the NY Times Style section shortly represented by Ivy Style's Christian talking about 'Trad'. It's an article on 'Trad', 'Trads' & Internet 'Trads' - Well... as we own the subject who else would you ask to talk on the subject? ![]()
The NYT boys seem to be quite taken with 'Trad' so as ever we're using the opportunity.
Probably once the word is in there it's going to stick, but never forget that the whole thing is down to Gomez, not Harris, not nobody else.
- Such a laugh!
Jim
Last edited by Russell_Street (2008-09-22 05:31:46)
Just been chatting to the mighty Hard Bop Hank & he reports a problem getting into the 'Ivy Style' website's 'forum' - Anybody else got a problem with this?
Let me know -
Whatever it is we'll fix it.
Best -
Russell_Street wrote:
Just been chatting to the mighty Hard Bop Hank & he reports a problem getting into the 'Ivy Style' website's 'forum' - Anybody else got a problem with this?
Let me know -
Whatever it is we'll fix it.
I joined and received an email which said I'd receive another email to confirm the activation of my account. Never got that second email unfortunately....
Problem fixed - Just a little bug in the new stystem.
Any further problems just let me know.
Equally do please use the new place as you see fit - That's the point of it. It's the blog that you write yourself!