but there are plenty of smaller sizes. just doesnt seem to be any demand for them.
i havent gone to the location in fathell, midlothian il. as of yet.
^
true - as a pint-sized bloke I tend to forget
That Hathaway of yours in 16/33 should be a good score for someone; I was very impressed with the USA Hathaway I picked up recently.
shamrockmonkey wrote:
but there are plenty of smaller sizes. just doesnt seem to be any demand for them.
I think you are right, except perhaps for some of the more esoteric stuff going to Japan. Difficult to argue with the statistics of average height and weight.
Retailers of new garments seem to have mostly dropped their smaller sizes too - the reason I started scouting vintage in the first place.
Moose Maclennan wrote:
Retailers of new garments seem to have mostly dropped their smaller sizes too - the reason I started scouting vintage in the first place.
Same here... it's about the only way to get 27/28 inseams and 32 arm lengths without going to the tailor's. Think of us midgets on your next haul Mr Monkey, please.
Moose Maclennan wrote:
shamrockmonkey wrote:
or you can just buy from me. for cheeeeeeep.
You do seem to go thrifting in Fathell, IL - BIG sizes you're getting...
there are some smaller sizes, just havent had anyone ask for them really. but they arent as common as the bigger sizes , IMHO because:
this type of stuff is usually baggy and oversized to begin with, anyways. up until very recently the american man (who wasnt interested in other men) tended to buy his clothes at least one size too big, sometimes 2.
what seems to be the agreed -upon version of Ivy amongst europeans might have been sported by a handful of jazz musicians and backwoods maine dentists, but the "ivy stylist" "golden age" look, with "flood pants" and shirts that barely touch the hands, more or less disappeared about 45 yrs ago and never came back, until , i dunno, 2007 or so. thats not just an OPHB thing.
UK/euro/jap ivy is a sharp look, definitely.......but it hasnt been an american look for about 45 years, up until probably thom browne and "mad men". you brits and euros make it look much classier than it tends to look over here... those "golden age" well-fitting garments arent that common.
midwesterners are a stocky demographic overall, but not any more so that germans or brits in my experience.
the average american would think of "well-tailored ivy" as oxymoronic, especially here in the midwest. just the rambling opinion of a frumpy midwestern blue-collar lug who sees nothing wrong with double-lines of collar stitching and polyester-blends.....
what are you looking for, mister moose?
I need more stuff like I need a hole in the head, but since you ask here are some elusive articles:
plain crew shetlands in S or M are interesting
BB 36S or 37S wash-and-wear poplin sack suits in khaki, navy or charcoal (I have one in olive, a fantastic suit) are on the hunting list
flat-front grey flannels (31 waist) have proved hard to find vintage or otherwise
plain-toe shell bluchers (black or cordo) in US size 9
Last edited by Moose Maclennan (2010-02-09 02:15:41)
thats a 9 brit or US?
Moose Maclennan wrote:
That Hathaway of yours in 16/33 should be a good score for someone; I was very impressed with the USA Hathaway I picked up recently.
It is a name which deserves more honour, IMO.
Middle-market stuff - But that's where all the action was in da Boom Years.
theres a pair of 9 US florsheim imperial bluchers, dont remember if theyre shell but they were cordo covered w/black polish, very good shape, pinking on the tongue, but brazil made w/ a rubber heel (some wear on the heel)
Just Jim wrote:
Moose Maclennan wrote:
That Hathaway of yours in 16/33 should be a good score for someone; I was very impressed with the USA Hathaway I picked up recently.
It is a name which deserves more honour, IMO.
Middle-market stuff - But that's where all the action was in da Boom Years.
pirates tend to be a well-dressed lot.
Todays finds
-brooks 346 blazer, 42 reg. brown -tinged gray herringbone tweed with overlaid windowpane, vertical orange, horizontal dk. red/maroon. 3/2 roll, flapped pockets, slim lapel, what i believe is a "hook vent". no darting but quite tailored at waist (probably my beer gut more than the jacket). havent decided if its for sale yet, come to think of it......
-size L (or tailored xl? tag missing) Gant flannel BD . "cambridge plaid"majority white/black /green with some yellow and red. 3rd button, locker loop, interesting pocket-button but open/no flap, 1 side of pocket has diagonal notch. great shape besides small spot of wear on shoulder (which appears to be 2-ply).
-very large gitman SS OCBD with lockerloop, 3rd button, etc. fantastic shape for an old all cotton BD but very large, at very least an XXl.
-LS madras , interesting thick madras cloth, almost like a brushed twill or light flannel. majority teal/olive with some white/yellow/reddish orange. locerloop and 3rd button, pencil slot in pocket.
-harris 2 button blazer, overlaid orange striping, light darting, english-style long lapel but w/flap pockets and single vent. also a 42 reg from the fit. bought by accident and will dispose of cheaply.
-old Gap blue oxford stripe in "big fit" XL. very similar to a BD baggies shirt. staining/fading at collar.
-brown grain longwings, 60s-70s, in used condition but no major damage. heel somewhat worn, will need minor sprucing up, but a good looking utility pair. marking not legible except "uppers and sole leather, balance man-made"no idea as to brand but similar to dexter models. look huge put a tight fit on me, so im guessing 9.5 reg , 10 narrow, or a snug 10D.
-old weejuns, nailed leather heel so assuming USA made. this type has a lace going around the entire shoe, passing through in front where the penny slot would normally be. size between 9 and 10.5.
-11d moc toe blucher (not split toe), red/brown grain, rubber heel, old US brand id never heard of "worthingcomfort" or something weird like that. 60s at latest.....an old version of the union label id never seen before.
-mint brooks pink 17.5x 36 point collar
-2 brooks ocbd 15.5 x 32/3, 1 wide spaced dk blue stripe, 1 narrow same. all cotton, USA. considerable collar wear , would need to be flipped around by a tailor
-variety of USA dexter, cole-haan, johnston and murphy weejuns and tassels, wide range of sizes. also brazil made "penelope" tan weejun w/lug sole, forget size either 8 or 9.5, might be womens from name?
-variety of brooks suits and suit-jackets, mostly w/ darts. one orthodox sack in a larger size, with hook vent, but larger lapels. several decent old soft-shoulder tweeds from various small mens clothiers as well.
london fog balmacaan in 42 reg. staining due to being folded for 30-odd yrs, not sure of prognosis for cleaning. liner zipper broken. previous owners saved your ian strachan guy the effort, etc......
-some hathaways and woodwards in good condition but all point collar.
-last but by no means least, a mechanic shirt with a name-patch that says "Tito".
Last edited by shamrockmonkey (2010-02-10 01:59:46)
todays items (note most of these had pricetags stapled to the collar by idiots at salvation army, still not noticeable punctured, but just to point out )
-brooks brothers SS madras, med., main color lt. teal
-black fleece ocbd, white, size "BB1", some staining on cuff, inside collar, looks like it will come out
-BB OCBD, 17.5 x 35, off-white supima cotton , very heavy but soft fabric almost like brushed twill, no stains, huge fit
-lands end ocbd, blue oxford stripe, 16.5x35, all cotton, no flaws
-hathaway for neiman marcus BD in lt. blue/white "english poplin", blend. staining inside collar, no other problems
-2 Andover Shop ocbds, lt. blue, 17x35, all-cotton, 1 w/ some smudging which should come out, the other spotless
-"B.D. baggies" ocbd, lt. blue, 16.5 x 34/5 long, some smudging on back
-Yellow BD Baggies OCBD, 15.5x34/5 long, no staining
-oxblood/reddish brown/lt. cordovan bluchers, "Wright arch preserver shoes", no major scuffing or dings, sole still thick, leather still flexible and in good shape. all around sole extension, but narrower profile compared to, say, an alden walker. size 8.5 D but my 10-11 feet fit in them, tight but i can uncurl my toes.....so id call them 9 or even 9.5.
-Govt. contract black bluchers, mfg. Genesco Inc., Sept. 24, 1975. no big flaws, leather still fairly supple and shiny but could use some leather food, etc. little wear, lining almost spotless. round toe, still thick leather sole/o'sullivan rubber heel, gunboat type extension in front but trim around the heel. would be good for a suedehead/smoothie type look.
-2 pairs USA made bass weejuns, both cordo. 1 marked 11D, 1 illegible but fits me like a 10.5 D. both pairs in need of some TLC. 11 pair in better shape but sole pretty thin around the toes. 10.5 has decent sole, but needs more refinishing up top.
ALSO SAW and can retrieve if anyone interested: L.L. bean melton short jacket, camel color, spotless/no holes/no fraying but slightly threadbare at all seams, size L-tall
brand new no box poulson and something of london "leeds" bal oxford and "sioux" loafer, both caramel, marked 9-9.5E
nordstrom white bucks, not really buck but chamois type leather, weird layered sole, vibram type, bottom/most of sole red but dark at top. 8.5 D.
size 11 or 11.5 white bucks which had been covered over with white athletic/nurses shoe liquid polish
10.5 johnston and murphy weejuns
a pair similar to the oxblood bluchers mentioned but in worse shape, covered w/superficial cracks and very worn heels
brown longwings in 11.5, also pretty beat
shamrockmonkey wrote:
i havent gone to the location in fathell, midlothian...
Well done picking up the literary reference!
Moose Maclennan wrote:
shamrockmonkey wrote:
i havent gone to the location in fathell, midlothian...
Well done picking up the literary reference!
if you want to call him literature....haha
his greatest gift to sartorial discourse is still "schemie hilfiger".
Last edited by shamrockmonkey (2010-02-11 05:55:00)
shamrockmonkey wrote:
...if you want to call him literature....haha
mais bien sűr, ya radge
But we digress.
A vintage Brooks makers sack suit, miniature grey hounds/dogstooth with a blue windowpane, tagged size 41 reg and measuring 18.5 shoulders, 22 chest, 24 shoulder to cuff and 31 overall. The trousers are flat front with a 1.75 cuff, 37 waist and 28.5 inside leg, $50.00 plus shipping,cheers.



Now there's a jolly thing that would suit any Ivy Modculturalist with a few tweaks to suit their taste.
Is it 'tweeks' or 'tweaks', btw? *Google* Oh, it's 'tweaks'.
Russell_Street wrote:
Now there's a jolly thing that would suit any Ivy Modculturalist with a few tweaks to suit their taste.
Is it 'tweeks' or 'tweaks', btw? *Google* Oh, it's 'tweaks'.
What would you tweak Russell? Looks like a fairly classic Brooks suit to me. I think the cloth is a bit ugly but everything else about it is rather nice.
Previous owner must have had something of a beer-gut though.
Fifty dollars is a very reasonable price too.
Onwards.
I thought the fabric might have Modculture appeal. Probably they'd want to slim it down a tad too?
I'm always thinking of others.
For me, if it was my size, the cut is fine - Classic. The fabric... Maybe if I was a more outgoing sort of person?
It's nice and its ugliness is part of the charm... Houndstooth, POW, blue striped Seersucker suits all belong here...
Houndstooth has always been a blindspot for me.
As a much younger man I might have been tempted to alter the leg width on such a suit: one of the greatest factors in compromising the Ivy silhouette in my opinion.
Got a really nice circa early 60s Brooks suit from ebay last year: perfect in every respect save for the fact that a previous owner (probably not the original owner) had decided to badly taper the pants to about fourteen-inches wide at the hem. Thankfully they had left all the original fabric intact and they were quickly and flawlessly restored to their majestic nineteen-inch origins.
An almost parallel hang to the trousers is a crucial part of the look to my eyes, even on khakis. Excessive taper is actually pretty inauthentic, even for the early 60s. The Brooks No. 1 cut stayed fairly consistent even if there was slight variance to lapel width and button-stance on jackets over the decades. Trousers almost always had that characteristic of being broadly speaking the same width at knee and hem.
Seconded... I like the 19" legs, too...
The worst thing that happened with an alteration to an early 60s Brooks suit was that a tailor (who has a few mod/60s revivalist customers) lowered the waist to almost hipster proportions and he slimmed it down with darts!
Re: Houndstooth: I read somewhere that the Stones were horrified about wearing matching suits in that pattern for an early promo shot...
Personally, I think as long as the pattern is small and subtle, it's nice...
Natural Sole Brother wrote:
An almost parallel hang to the trousers is a crucial part of the look to my eyes, even on khakis. Excessive taper is actually pretty inauthentic, even for the early 60s.
I wouldn't say so... There's a lot of very strongly tapered Boom Years Ivy stuff... even less than 16"... Especially for odd trousers... Sta Prests were almost always very slim and tapered...
Natural Sole Brother wrote:
The Brooks No. 1 cut stayed fairly consistent even if there was slight variance to lapel width and button-stance on jackets over the decades. Trousers almost always had that characteristic of being broadly speaking the same width at knee and hem.
Your probably right about Brooks trousers, though... I haven't seen anything less than 19"... However, I'm not sure if this is just you and me... Maybe someone could falsify this?
lapels between 3 and 3,5"... but I can't agree about button stance!!!
There is way more than "slight variation"!