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#1 2006-06-29 14:36:02

sweetbooness2
Member
Posts: 60

Apparel Arts

Has a book ever been compiled of the classic Apparel Arts fashion illustrations from the 30s and 40s? If so, can you recall the title and availability?

 

#2 2006-06-30 00:19:16

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Apparel Arts


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#3 2006-06-30 01:36:32

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: Apparel Arts

Wasn't there also a complete reprint of the plates in the publication?  The Rizzoli is just a selection.  I have it and it's nice to have.

The back issues are pretty expensive from booksellers.  There was talk of someone scanning in many of the old plates and putting them on CDROM but I think copyright concerns dissuaded them.  Are there any up on websites other than those on the London Lounge?  On which, I noticed, Etutee has another interesting look article.  Speaking of which, I tried, to register, for the LL, to post, my review of Mant.  I thought I'd bring to their place, some knowledge, and "vigourous debate".  But I haven't heard.  I await.  Should my feelings be hurt?


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#4 2006-07-02 07:04:34

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Apparel Arts

Last edited by Miles Away (2006-07-02 07:24:46)


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#5 2006-07-02 07:27:41

Mulberrywood
Member
From: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 54

Re: Apparel Arts


David Hober

www.samhober.com/store

 

#6 2006-07-02 08:06:12

Mulberrywood
Member
From: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 54

Re: Apparel Arts


David Hober

www.samhober.com/store

 

#7 2006-07-02 08:45:06

Mulberrywood
Member
From: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 54

Re: Apparel Arts

Marc,

It is interesting that Marinella was making the ties for Beretta, since Drakes makes many of Marinellas ties....

I wonder if Drakes is the former, and perhaps current maker of the ties? I am only wondering. You might call Berretta and ask them.

How a tie knots is important.

Beyond the choice of silk itself, there are a number of variables, but the one that Noina and I spend the most time thinking about with our new clients, is the interlining. Or more accurately the relationship of the wool interlining and the silk. I could go on and on, but I will say that even when you have a bespoke tie perfect, new things pop up such as a gentlemen buying new shirts with different collars.

Personally, I feel that you should have your shirt collars match your tie shape, instead of the other way around, but no one listens to me... (smiling)

At the moment all of our ties are bespoke so it is possible to get everything just right, but with ready-to-wear ties it is hard to please everyone. Which is why I understand when men prefer the way one brand's ties knot over another.


David Hober

www.samhober.com/store

 

#8 2006-07-02 09:51:26

Mulberrywood
Member
From: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 54

Re: Apparel Arts

Marc,


Romance and poetry are important in life so I understand and share your feelings about Marinellas ties. I am sure that many if not all of Marinella's custom made ties are made in their workshop. So please enjoy your weekend.

Oh, and by the way we have been in business as silk weavers in Thailand for over 100 years. Does that count as romantic?

Drakes has a nice workshop setup and they use a lot of hand labor, but they will never get the small touches done as well as Marinella's custom workshop. Drakes uses power tools to cut around 12 layers of silk at a time etc..

When you work with a bespoke tiemaker such as ourselves each new pattern is a conversation. We do not use power tools. We draft your pattern by hand. etc.

"I have both, and, curiously, the Marinella ties make a different knot than the Drake's ties--go figure."

It is hard to really comment without the two ties in front of me (if you are a skier you can show me the two ties, the next time you pass through Denver). But assuming that you are talking about printed silk there may be a difference in the silk, although, usually there is not. Marinella generally uses English printed  "36 oz' silk which is really around 3.6oz per yard. "36oz" is a marketing term. I am not sure what weight they use for their woven silks.

If you were to speak to the designers at the English silk mills you would be told that most of the designs are done by the silk mills and approved by Marinella. If you were to speak to the Marinella family they would tell you that they design every silk.


"The Drake's tie makes sort of a square compact knot, the Marinella ties make a slightly longer, fluid knot, if this makes any sense."

Yes, your comments make sense. The word fluid makes me think that perhaps there is a difference in the silk as you suspect. If you were to use terms like weight, size & drape I would suspect a difference in interlining.


"Your custom ties interest me because ready-made Marinella ties come up a bit short on me and Marinella custom ties are, I think, excessively priced at $250."

Looking at the ties on their own, yes they are overpriced, but the romance of Naples and maybe more importantly many different designs in limited editions are what drives their price.

I would be happy to send you swatches of our June and July English printed silks.


David Hober

www.samhober.com/store

 

#9 2006-07-02 10:34:48

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9341

Re: Apparel Arts

Unil the DVD era you really couldnt realistically capture and focus on what a star was wearing from the old movies. Then there was the issue of them being black and white.

The apparel arts plates are from a more abstract age before men were infected with the idea that things needed to match to look good. They are in color which shows off different variations of patterns and colors. For that reason, I do find it bizarre that the Men in Style book would conain several of the AA plates reproduced in B&W because that defeats the purpose.

I also find it hard to believe theres still a copyright on the plates. Someone scanning them to use to show people on the forum is almost certainly engaging in a noncommercial or non-infringing use. Copyrights are meant to protect mostly commercial interests.

I like referring to them, they lead to ideas. I think they still represent well dressed men today, even if I personally would update the fabrics to be more conemporary.

If anyone wanted to do a book with all the plates (There must be thousands and thousands of them) it is ore likely, whomever libraries them doesnt want to be bothered rather than their being under copyright.

 

#10 2006-07-02 12:05:03

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9341

Re: Apparel Arts

 

#11 2006-07-02 13:52:34

Tomasso
Member
Posts: 598

Re: Apparel Arts

 

#12 2006-07-03 08:05:14

Cruz Diez
Member
Posts: 1950

Re: Apparel Arts

AA illustrations show idealized clothes worn by idealized humans, maybe that's why some people idolize them. To get the trousers and jacket sleeves to drape that way, as if carved out of a single piece of wood,  at least  20 oz cloth (not practical today), heavily starched, would be needed. Plus, the wearer would have to go to the gym quite regularly. As rendered, the trousers are too short and a tad wide to be considered elegant by today's standards. The trousers don't look that bad in the idealized illustrations, but the subjects are posing still for the most part. If they were walking, going up the stairs, etc.,  they'd show too much hose. That was the fashion of the 30's and 40's, anyway, but that was +60 years ago. On the other hand, I find the style of some of the jackets and combinations of patterns and colors inspiring, nicely adaptable to our current times. That is the whole point, using the illustrations as an inspiration for making smart combinations of colors and patterns, but adapted to modern times and to your own personal style, which, hopefully, takes inspiration from many other sources.

 

#13 2006-07-03 09:26:16

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Apparel Arts


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#14 2006-07-03 12:25:06

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9341

Re: Apparel Arts

On a related subject of Esquire, has anyone seen the Encyclopedia by them on 20th Century Men's Fashion under the author/editorship of O.E. Schoefler? What the devil is in there that justifies paying between $600-1000?

 

#15 2006-07-03 17:23:14

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: Apparel Arts

Last edited by Horace (2006-07-03 17:35:30)


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#16 2006-07-03 17:27:29

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: Apparel Arts


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#17 2006-07-03 18:00:44

Incroyable
Member
Posts: 2310

Re: Apparel Arts

Once I saw two AA portfolios with fabric samples to boot on eBay, which I thought to bid on. Apparently the price went very high.

I wonder who buys these things.


Jukebox Babe

 

#18 2006-07-03 18:12:52

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9341

Re: Apparel Arts

 

#19 2006-07-03 18:39:00

Tomasso
Member
Posts: 598

Re: Apparel Arts

 

#20 2006-07-03 18:42:16

Incroyable
Member
Posts: 2310

Re: Apparel Arts

This will strike a blow at those of a conservative disposition.


Jukebox Babe

 

#21 2006-07-03 20:52:41

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9341

Re: Apparel Arts

 

#22 2006-07-03 22:40:47

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9341

Re: Apparel Arts

 

#23 2006-07-05 04:21:57

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: Apparel Arts


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#24 2006-07-05 18:33:35

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: Apparel Arts


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#25 2006-07-07 04:49:29

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: Apparel Arts


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

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