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#1 2009-02-28 09:04:50

Decline & Fall
Member
Posts: 813

more Weejun goodness

An American original has lost its footing

Fred Bayles
850 words
10 February 1998
USA Today
FINAL
04A
English
© 1998 USA Today.  Provided by ProQuest Information and Learning.   All Rights Reserved. 

WILTON, Maine -- For four decades, Laurence Wilbur epitomized the old-fashioned American craft work that
goes into each pair of Bass Weejun shoes.

With his Down East twang and long snowy beard, Wilbur, 73, traveled the world to show how the legendary
thick-leather "penny loafers" are cobbled together with 40 tight hand stitches in five minutes.

"This is how Bass Weejuns are handcrafted in America," he'd say proudly at fashion shows and trade
missions from Paris to Hong Kong.

Americans have long seen the shoe as a national symbol of preppie haute couture.

"Everyone remembers their first pair of Weejuns," says Faye Landes, a Solomon Brothers shoe industry
analyst. "It's an American icon."

But now, the Weejun is going the way of other American originals. By summer, the 60-year-old classic will
be made solely in Puerto Rico and the Dominican Republic.

G.H. Bass & Co. succumbed to decades of competition from low-wage, offshore factories and announced
last month that it will phase out its Wilton operations this spring. About 350 workers in this town of 3,900 will
lose jobs that have been in their families for generations.

Plant shutdowns are not new here. In three decades, Maine lost 100,000 shoe and textile jobs. In 1980 there
were 30,000 shoe manufacturing jobs. Now there are 4,000.

But the shutdown of Bass' Wilton shoe factory, one of the first to open and the last to close, marks the end of
an era.

George Henry Bass began peddling boots to lumberjacks in 1876. He built a three-story red brick factory on
Wilson Stream, one of many water-powered industries that dotted the state's river valleys.

Bass shoes became associated with American durability and quality. Charles Lindbergh wore them when he
flew across the Atlantic; Admiral Richard Byrd made his quest for the South Pole in Bass shoes.

Then, in 1936, Bass introduced a moccasin-style loafer named the Weejun after footwear made by
Norwegian Laplanders. The loafer's comfort and casual elegance made it an enduring success.

Generations of teen-agers debated the relative "coolness" of placing a penny in the distinctive opening
across the top of the shoe. Its unique "cup," a leather hollow, cradles the wearer's heel for comfort.

The first Weejuns sold for $8; today, 14 different styles range in price from $85 to $100. A 2.1-square-foot
piece of leather makes a pair of Size 8 women's Weejuns.

Wilbur joined Bass in 1953 after nearby Wilton Woolen Co. closed. But Bass thrived, largely on the sale of
Weejuns.

Wilbur was one of several hundred hand sewers who spent two years developing the skill and strength to
craft the shoe. Even today, machines are used only to cut leather and do some initial stitching. Human
beings do the rest.

Whole families, including Wilbur's wife and daughters, worked for Bass. The company picnic was the town's
or social event; the Bass family an integral part of the community.

"George Bass, the grandson, would walk through the factory each day in his shirt sleeves, talking to
everyone," says Ruth Adamo, Wilton's town historian.

But in 1978, the Bass family sold to Chesebrough-Pond, which sold to Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. in 1987.
The town's insular world was invaded by the unpleasantries of macroeconomics.

Weejun sales rose and fell on the vagaries of fashion. The sneaker boom slowed the Weejun's growth and
offshore plants brought stiff price competition. Bass moved some production to the Caribbean, but held on
here.

"The company felt the same way the people in Maine did -- that the Weejun was a symbol of American
quality," says Mary Lou Burde, a director at Standard & Poor's Corporate Ratings group. "If there was any
factory that needed to stay open for that cache, it was Bass. But they also needed to stay efficient."

The realities of international trade are lost on Patricia Snell, who wonders how she'll make her mortgage
payments. "All the good jobs are gone. There's nothing left," she says.

The plant's closing will ripple through Wilton's economy. Bass' property taxes account for 7.5%, or $225,000,
of the town's $3 million budget.

But others remain hopeful. High-tech and telemarketing jobs moved into other towns hit by plant closings,
paying comparable wages.

"We're a hardy lot up here," Wilton Selectman Norman Spencer says. "We'll survive."

So will Wilbur, who just returned from a Miami trade show to announce he is retiring. Still, after 45 years of
handcrafting Bass shoes, Wilbur regrets the passing of an era.

"Most people who have a craft like this take a lot of pride in their work. I hate to see that disappear." 

THE NATION; The company that makes Bass Weejuns will close down its last U.S. plant in Maine, marking
the end of an era


"I like bars just after they open in the evening. When the air inside is still cool and clean and everything is shiny. The first quiet drink of the evening in a quiet bar-that's wonderful."
— Raymond Chandler

 

#2 2009-02-28 10:11:35

Decline & Fall
Member
Posts: 813

Re: more Weejun goodness

In hindsight, it was inappropriate to call an article about the closing of the Weejun factory more Weejun goodness.


"I like bars just after they open in the evening. When the air inside is still cool and clean and everything is shiny. The first quiet drink of the evening in a quiet bar-that's wonderful."
— Raymond Chandler

 

#3 2009-02-28 11:48:49

Russell_Street
Whistle & I'll come to you, my lad!
Posts: 12130

Re: more Weejun goodness

Decline & Fall wrote:

In hindsight, it was inappropriate to call an article about the closing of the Weejun factory more Weejun goodness.

What's good is that you tell the true story.

 

#4 2009-02-28 14:02:33

Staceyboy
Member
Posts: 557

Re: more Weejun goodness

An overview of the Weejun and its competitors available in the UK in the late 1980's. The article is from "Arena" magazine Sept/Oct 1989. Btw, this is the issue that also contained Tony Parsons notorious "Tattooed Jungle" diatribe against the British working class in the 80's. Dig those 1980's prices!

http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/8135/weejun1.jpg
http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/826/weejun2.jpg
http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/6043/weejun3.jpg
http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/1989/weejun4.jpg

Staceyboy

 

#5 2009-02-28 17:56:19

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: more Weejun goodness

Brilliant.


"Clothes make the man only if they fit." Carole Jackson
"Once upon a time, life was not better. It was just different." William Norwich
"This is one of the testimonial pictures that Satan uses in his brochures." Anonymous

 

#6 2009-02-28 18:13:22

Prof Kelp
Member
Posts: 557

Re: more Weejun goodness

Staceyboy wrote:

An overview of the Weejun and its competitors available in the UK in the late 1980's. The article is from "Arena" magazine Sept/Oct 1989. Btw, this is the issue that also contained Tony Parsons notorious "Tattooed Jungle" diatribe against the British working class in the 80's. Dig those 1980's prices!

Staceyboy

In terms of prices of the prices in that article it seems shoes are pretty cheap these days......but in saying that, I would expect most now outsourced to countries where labour is a lot cheaper (Bass still made in the USA back then) so I know quality has suffered across the board there?. Bally actually are pretty cheap in this article compared to what you would expect to pay now for a pair of their shoes.......and remember Cable and Co?????

 

#7 2009-03-01 01:22:46

Russell_Street
Whistle & I'll come to you, my lad!
Posts: 12130

Re: more Weejun goodness

Fantastic to see the Buffalo Creek Trader there.

Still got mine.

Edit: And I think Kingstonian had a pair too. I know that back at one point there were only two of us active on the American MBs who knew them. Was it you, Kingy?

Last edited by Russell_Street (2009-03-01 01:32:31)

 

#8 2009-03-01 01:24:20

Russell_Street
Whistle & I'll come to you, my lad!
Posts: 12130

Re: more Weejun goodness

Also note the more generous tassel on the 80's Weejun compared to todays.

 

#9 2009-03-01 03:41:15

TheWeejun
Member
Posts: 924

Re: more Weejun goodness

Classic stuff, with the usual men's mag ignorance well to the fore. I remember this article well and chuckling at the time.

The inclusion of the Jones JM Weston copy and description of its 'nasty stitching' is amusing. That was a lined goodyear welted shoe made by Alfred Sargent and sold by Bowen in Paris at £130 even in those days. Same goes for the Crockett & Jones made Paul Smith loafer - a British trad style in goodyear welt and nothing to do with the weejun inspired mocc loafer.

I must confess that the dodgy looking Cambourne (wrongly attributed to Bally stores in the black version, but actually from Jones) was 'designed' by The Weejun's own Pappy to be exactly what it looked like - a mass market sop to the preppy trend and it sold tens of thousands. Pop never wore them himself of course. Sell to the Masses Eat with the Classes, as they say in the States.

The Buffalo Creek Traders look excellent today, and Weejuns being described as 'good supple leather' - ah the joy.

Am not certain but I believe the Charleston Beefroll II sold by Jones was made by Bostonian, by that time one of the first US companies to turn their heritage in the brown stuff. Bostonian around that time was bought by one of the Clarks shoes family and the damage done by him.

Interesting to see how market positioning changes with time. Weejuns were exotica and priced as such, Bally was at its worst level ever appealing only to the far east and middle east markets and selling their loafers for nearly half the price of Weejuns.

Keep digging out the history!

The Weejun

Last edited by TheWeejun (2009-03-01 03:53:13)


"The Weejun does have an awkward charm, it's true." - Russell Street, Sunday 25th April 2010

 

#10 2009-03-01 03:49:22

Russell_Street
Whistle & I'll come to you, my lad!
Posts: 12130

Re: more Weejun goodness

At this point at the Natural Shoe Store Weejuns were £65-ish.

Ian of The Ivy was neighbours with the NSS Cat around then. Trivia, eh?

 

#11 2009-03-01 03:52:53

Russell_Street
Whistle & I'll come to you, my lad!
Posts: 12130

Re: more Weejun goodness

Where was Eastland?

A well made, well priced item from JS back then.

Last edited by Russell_Street (2009-03-01 03:56:28)

 

#12 2009-03-01 04:00:45

TheWeejun
Member
Posts: 924

Re: more Weejun goodness

Russell_Street wrote:

At this point at the Natural Shoe Store Weejuns were £65-ish.

Ian of The Ivy was neighbours with the NSS Cat around then. Trivia, eh?

Robert Lusk? He always seemed very laid back, but I remember he had a very pushy woman that did the buying and ran a lot of the business back then. In about 1984 she gave me a small discount on a pair of waxy nubuck crepe soled US made chukkas  and then within a day the shoes broke in so badly that each foot looked like they were different boots. I mean REALLY bad.

I took them back for an exchange and got the whole 'how dare you after I gave you a discount' spiel. Seemed she had never heard of 'fit for purpose'. I remember it escalated into some kind of Curb Your Enthusiasm story line.

Needless to say I NEVER bought another pair of shoes from Natural Shoe Store. That's 25 years and a lot of money lost the way I've bought shoes over the years!


The Weejun


"The Weejun does have an awkward charm, it's true." - Russell Street, Sunday 25th April 2010

 

#13 2009-03-01 04:02:54

Russell_Street
Whistle & I'll come to you, my lad!
Posts: 12130

Re: more Weejun goodness

Never knew the Cat's name back then ('87). Ian just said that he 'was Bass' in the UK at that time.

 

#14 2009-03-01 04:08:30

Russell_Street
Whistle & I'll come to you, my lad!
Posts: 12130

Re: more Weejun goodness

Just dug out me Eastlands - They look a lot like the AE's up above. 'Composition' sole & heel though. Handsewn in Freeport, Maine. Kinda Kelly Green Box with a compass on it.

Ring bells?

Edit: £49 from JS in the day.

Last edited by Russell_Street (2009-03-01 04:17:19)

 

#15 2009-03-01 08:22:25

Decline & Fall
Member
Posts: 813

Re: more Weejun goodness

Staceyboy thanks for the shoe porn and and Weejun thanks for the lowdown. This kind of stuff is why I come here. I really liked the pics. Thanks a million. 

One thing I find really interesting about the article is that actually bothers to try to differentiate between those shoes and have an opinion. I quit reading GQ a while ago but I don't seem to remember them doing much more than simply showing pics because any sort of opinion on the products, one can imagine, might slight their gravy train.


"I like bars just after they open in the evening. When the air inside is still cool and clean and everything is shiny. The first quiet drink of the evening in a quiet bar-that's wonderful."
— Raymond Chandler

 

#16 2009-03-01 10:44:50

Russell_Street
Whistle & I'll come to you, my lad!
Posts: 12130

Re: more Weejun goodness

Russell_Street wrote:

Fantastic to see the Buffalo Creek Trader there.

Still got mine.

Edit: And I think Kingstonian had a pair too. I know that back at one point there were only two of us active on the American MBs who knew them. Was it you, Kingy?

It was Brideshead.

 

#17 2009-03-02 02:34:36

TheWeejun
Member
Posts: 924

Re: more Weejun goodness

Decline & Fall wrote:

One thing I find really interesting about the article is that actually bothers to try to differentiate between those shoes and have an opinion.

I understand, but some of those comments are just dumb. The downside of that is that these articles become 'official' history to future fashion scholars. Of course these days we have the folk history of blogs with real people talking about their real experiences.

The other point worth remembering is that article appeared in a magazine that believed it was cutting edge for fashion. Taken literally if you were to look at the real trend for Weejuns that this article bases its comparisons on, 1989 is way off the mark. I'm far from suggesting that it wasn't cool to wear them in 1989 but really 1983-86 in my experience were the years in which people who bought weejuns or similar because of an underground swell of popularity on the street and in clubs, etc were wearing them. Then they moved on. Yet Arena truly was aimed at revealing new 'trends' to the people, but it was usually written by those who were clueless.

To give an example the very inclusion of so many J Simons products suggests to me that Johnny was the instigator in the sense that some plonker went in and bought a pair and John told clued them up as to the product and its history, a little lightbulb would have gone on in the mind of the freelance journo and then an even more clueless editor would have said 'we need comparisons - go and get some'. But Arena would not have paid for the shoes (at Soho Shoes at least 5 journos a week would try to blag some free shoes for 'an article I'm doing') and therefore would have included those from whoever was prepared to give them freebies. And, man some of those comparisons should not have been in that article in 1989 - Bally?? Bally, Jones, Paul Smith et al, all had PR working for them in those days and would have loved getting their product into a mainstream mag.

I know how these articles gestate from my young days working at Soho Shoes, and the journos would always get so many key facts wrong. Natural I suppose as they are not aficionados. Arena however, set itself up as the style bible.

Thankfully these days we have narrow casting (as opposed to broadcasting) and the truth will out!

The Weejun


"The Weejun does have an awkward charm, it's true." - Russell Street, Sunday 25th April 2010

 

#18 2009-03-02 04:08:25

Natural Sole Brother
Member
Posts: 579

Re: more Weejun goodness

Anyone remember the American Gentleman penny loafer? I bought my first pair from Quincy in Kings Road in about '83. Beautiful and really expensive (in hindsight they must have been shell cordovan). It was a quest to replace them after outgrowing them (I was about sixteen or seventeen then) which took me to J. Simons for the first time.

The rest, as they say, is history.


Sunday after church was a day of quiet pleasures…

 

#19 2009-03-02 13:31:51

Russell_Street
Whistle & I'll come to you, my lad!
Posts: 12130

Re: more Weejun goodness

TheWeejun wrote:

I know how these articles gestate from my young days working at Soho Shoes...

The Weejun

That was you? The young guy, dark hair, polite, knew your stuff?

Wow. You know me & you know Mrs. Street too. It must be XYZ years! No BS. If you're that guy then... Fantastic!

Proof I know you: You kinda walk from the hip, yeah? You don't slouch, but you have a kind of relaxed manner.

Amazing!

 

#20 2009-03-02 13:34:45

Russell_Street
Whistle & I'll come to you, my lad!
Posts: 12130

Re: more Weejun goodness

Natural Sole Brother wrote:

Anyone remember the American Gentleman penny loafer? I bought my first pair from Quincy in Kings Road in about '83. Beautiful and really expensive (in hindsight they must have been shell cordovan). It was a quest to replace them after outgrowing them (I was about sixteen or seventeen then) which took me to J. Simons for the first time.

The rest, as they say, is history.

Kinda high gloss as I recall. I never invested. What was the price back then?

One of the things I liked about Bass was that they were kinda matt in their Cordo manifestation. The Black had more shine, but nothing like now.

 

#21 2009-03-02 14:26:55

TheWeejun
Member
Posts: 924

Re: more Weejun goodness

Russell_Street wrote:

That was you? The young guy, dark hair, polite, knew your stuff?

Wow. You know me & you know Mrs. Street too. It must be XYZ years! No BS. If you're that guy then... Fantastic!

Proof I know you: You kinda walk from the hip, yeah? You don't slouch, but you have a kind of relaxed manner.

Amazing!

Must have been me as there was never anyone else working there except Paul (with the silver hair) and then John when he bought in to the store, apart from in the 80s there was a strange little troll of a man who looked exactly like that sitcom character Ricky Gervais plays in Extras. He eventually got caught on the fiddle and got sacked. I worked there on and off part time from 86 to about 92. When JR moved to Wimpole St I started my record label in the basement!

The Weejun


"The Weejun does have an awkward charm, it's true." - Russell Street, Sunday 25th April 2010

 

#22 2009-03-02 15:03:50

Gibson Gardens
Member
Posts: 323

Re: more Weejun goodness

I was working 3 days a week in J.Simons when the Arena article came out. Unlike most press (and The Weejun speaks the truth : arrogant 'stylists' were always attempting to blag gear for some nasty shoot or other - JS was always civil with them but saw completely through them) the effect on sales of the Bass Weejun black tasseled loafer was breathtaking to behold. Men came in from the 'burbs clutching this issue and duly bought the shoe their bible had told them to. I reckon we sold 200 extra pairs of shoes on the back of that article. I don't recall ever seeing any of these characters return. They were all clueless. John, even back then a man of the world, just shrugged his shoulders and did his thing. He has an amazing customer base of friends, obsessives, romantics, lunatics and eccentrics. Very little of this is due to media. It's because he has amazing depth of knowledge, a solid value system, impeccable taste and a great record collection.

 

#23 2009-03-02 15:44:24

Natural Sole Brother
Member
Posts: 579

Re: more Weejun goodness

Russell_Street wrote:

Natural Sole Brother wrote:

Anyone remember the American Gentleman penny loafer? I bought my first pair from Quincy in Kings Road in about '83. Beautiful and really expensive (in hindsight they must have been shell cordovan). It was a quest to replace them after outgrowing them (I was about sixteen or seventeen then) which took me to J. Simons for the first time.

The rest, as they say, is history.

Kinda high gloss as I recall. I never invested. What was the price back then?

One of the things I liked about Bass was that they were kinda matt in their Cordo manifestation. The Black had more shine, but nothing like now.

I'm struggling to recall the price of the pair from Quincy but they were in the ballpark of £150. The chaps at Quincy pointed me in the direction of J. Simons (and in hindsight through the door to another realm). The replacement pair from Simons were a completely different animal: the lining was far less luxurious and the outer leather completely different which makes me think the first pair were shells and the second a kind of highly shined calf: the first pair were eventually bequeathed to an acquaintance of my brother's from art college. I'd like to think he still has them. Weejuns were a good bet after that and I bought pairs in tan scotchgrain and un-dyed leather with white stitching as well as the standard 'brown'. I've still got and wear the un-dyed pair some twenty odd years later. They've never been polished or had the heels or soles replaced and still look fantastic.


Sunday after church was a day of quiet pleasures…

 

#24 2009-03-02 18:10:09

Decline & Fall
Member
Posts: 813

Re: more Weejun goodness

TheWeejun wrote:

I worked there on and off part time from 86 to about 92. When JR moved to Wimpole St I started my record label in the basement!

What label?


"I like bars just after they open in the evening. When the air inside is still cool and clean and everything is shiny. The first quiet drink of the evening in a quiet bar-that's wonderful."
— Raymond Chandler

 

#25 2009-03-03 01:18:59

TheWeejun
Member
Posts: 924

Re: more Weejun goodness

Decline & Fall wrote:

What label?

This one D&F: www.whatmusic.com

I sold it in about 2004 to someone who's done nothing with it since.


"The Weejun does have an awkward charm, it's true." - Russell Street, Sunday 25th April 2010

 

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