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#1 2006-07-09 12:38:59

Hermes Boy McCoy
Moderator
Posts: 139

Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories

This was posted elsewhere but since some of the members here cannot partake in that discussion, I thought it would be interesting to get the learned lore here.

 

#2 2006-07-09 14:58:26

Incroyable
Member
Posts: 2310

Re: Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories

How would you compare Ercolino with Vincent & Edgar? I also know E.Vogel bus his lasts are rather stodgy.


Jukebox Babe

 

#3 2006-07-09 19:36:18

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9341

Re: Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories

I had two pairs of shoes made by Vincent and Edgar. The shoes are ugly and they do not fit properly. They also have serrated marks across the vamp, presumably where some sort of vice or clamp was holding the leather, which is indelible. Additionally, over a short period of the time the rear of the shoe became brittle and cracked along the heel's lip.

I believe Roman should be making orthotics for prosperous people with severe foot problems. Although, that’s only the way they look. To be sure, the way they feel would offer no relief to someone with chronic foot pain.


I understand that Flusser thinks very highly of them in his book Style and the Man but homeboy got this one wrong. He may have been speaking about the workmanship in a vacuum, which may seem impressive. The overall look and the fit leave a lot to be desired.

Anyone who tells you that those shoes are anything less than a disaster is speaking from ignorance and being very brave gambling with your money. Alternatively they may believe that we as a community of consumers are suckers who should think it funny to spend money and get refuse in return.

 

#4 2006-07-09 22:12:31

Hermes Boy McCoy
Moderator
Posts: 139

Re: Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55983

Here is the thread from the island that talent forgot. Kabbaz is getting Schooled after being caught for shooting his mouth off without knowledge and then trying to back out of it with comments a shade less than the truth. Not the first time he's launched himself as an expert without any knowledge to back it up.

 

#5 2006-07-10 00:58:17

Cruz Diez
Member
Posts: 1950

Re: Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories

Not the first time is an understatement smile  From English grammar to shirtmaking, from politics to tailoring, from mathematics to shoemaking... if you get my drift.

Last edited by Cruz Diez (2006-07-10 00:59:39)

 

#6 2006-07-10 01:32:49

Incroyable
Member
Posts: 2310

Re: Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories

From culture to aesthetics to logic, it's a commodious vicus.


Jukebox Babe

 

#7 2006-07-10 01:36:44

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories

Damn.  That boy got served.  Good for Manton.  He argues there reasonably, logically, rationally.  Can't say the same for Pagliacci.  It's embarrasing how far deep he dug himself.  Plato/Aristotle bootcamp for him!   The monk's a little more gentle toward Pagliacci then he deserves.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#8 2006-07-10 08:36:16

Ziegfield
Member
From: Britain
Posts: 142

Re: Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories

 

#9 2006-07-10 09:31:30

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9341

Re: Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories

Lets keep it cool guys. Other people's personality disorders aren't our concern here. Lets keep it about the best custom shoemakers in NYC, of which there doesnt seem to be many. I never did the Oliver Moore shoes and maybe Grayson will show us some ercolino piccies?

Ill take a photo or two of a pair of my V&E disasters.

 

#10 2006-07-10 09:37:13

kenperes
Member
Posts: 584

Re: Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories

I have spent a fair penny going back and forth on this one.  I am not at all convinced that I prefer custom shoes to OTR ones.  Mind you, I have reasonably normal feet, so most manufacturers have a last that fits.  My problem with custom mades is that I would rather a shoe be beautiful than to have it look much like the shape of my foot.  What I do wish is that there were more shoemakers like Lattanzi and Vass who made handmade RTW shoes.  That, I think, is a better product than custom or machine made RTW.

 

#11 2006-07-10 14:09:38

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#12 2006-07-10 15:44:01

Panzeraxe
Member
Posts: 146

Re: Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories

Absolutely true - manton helps people out on the internet by providing sound advice. He also wants to improve sales of his book.

What a horrible horrible person

 

#13 2006-07-10 15:53:09

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#14 2006-07-10 16:58:49

Panzeraxe
Member
Posts: 146

Re: Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories

manton gives very useful advice, and most importantly is very generous with it. As much as I respect marc's opinion, the fact remains his reviews are not always helpful as he tends to (rightly or wrongly) hate 95% of the tailors/shirtmakers/shoemakers out there

 

#15 2006-07-10 20:44:01

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9341

Re: Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories

Youre out of breath?

 

#16 2006-07-10 21:59:34

Tomasso
Member
Posts: 598

Re: Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories

 

#17 2006-07-10 22:59:43

Cruz Diez
Member
Posts: 1950

Re: Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories

 

#18 2006-07-11 08:53:45

uncle suede
New member
Posts: 7

Re: Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories

Has anyone tried the gent in Brooklyn who was mentioned in the last Men's Vogue?

 

#19 2006-07-11 09:34:04

Panzeraxe
Member
Posts: 146

Re: Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories

I have little doubt that marc is well qualified to make recommendations, and am very grateful to him for pointing me towards Raphael. However, as far as I know, I am the only member of AAAC/SF who goes to Raphael with any regularity due to Marc's rec (manton uses Raph as well but that was based on Shattuck's recommendation). My point was that when Marc lambasts every tailor apart from Raphael his reviews are not as helpful as others (Logsdail, all of Savile Row incl. several tailors he has never used etc.). I have seen severakl suits from Logsdail, and quite a few suits from SR, and the vast vast majority of them have been very fine garments.

So, while I have considerable respect for marc's experiences with various tailors and shirtmakers, his reviews are not as helpful as someone with his experience can make them

And to Cruz's point I fail to see how manton's reviews are tainted by "merchandising" - he doesn't get free suits from tailors he recommends and pays for them as we all do. And he has been dispensing useful advice on the forums well before the release of his book.

Last edited by Panzeraxe (2006-07-11 09:54:17)

 

#20 2006-07-11 12:54:09

Cruz Diez
Member
Posts: 1950

Re: Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories

 

#21 2006-07-12 01:02:07

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories

Last edited by Horace (2006-07-12 01:06:04)


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#22 2006-07-12 01:08:05

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#23 2006-07-12 09:18:07

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9341

Re: Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories

 

#24 2006-07-12 11:32:31

uncle suede
New member
Posts: 7

Re: Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories

Best custom shoe maker in NYC??????

 

#25 2006-07-12 11:44:55

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9341

Re: Approaches to rating tailors and craftsmen of men's clothes/accesories

 
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