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#1 2006-07-12 00:56:44

GFBurke
Member
From: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 81

Quality

So I just spent far too much time paging through AAAC's Trad forum and seeing that nothing provokes longer discussions than who's trad and who isn't and how annoyed some people can become when told such and such isn't trad and how can people define the rules of trad so narrowly and so on.

And then I go over to Dandyism.net and it's the same thing just a search and replace 'trad' with 'dandy', and they have more defined 'enemies', being dandies they like to use their rapier wits against those they consider their inferiors.

The whole thing is just incredibly nerdy.  I thought comic book fans were bad.  How the hell did I get into this clothing thing?  Why can't I just freakin' wear T-shirts and shorts and stop giving a crap about this.


-
I like fine food and good restaurants and gourmet cooking.   Along with my partner Peter we have travelled to some of the greatest restaurants in the world and eaten some phenomenal meals.  We have also journeyed to specific taco trucks in rather dodgy parts of California, remote farms in Vermont, rib joints in North Carolina.  I love food and will seek out the best wherever it is.  If it's a hamburger I want it to be a GREAT hamburger made by someone who cares about what they're doing.  If it's a steak, make it a great one.  If it's molecular gastronomy made with liquid nitrogen and a centrifuge the chef had better know their shit.  We have a saying: "It's on the plate."  The nicest wait staff, the best decor, the best wine list mean nothing if the food isn't up to snuff.  I would feel ripped off of a $20 meal that shot for a mark and missed, and I have happily spent over $1000 on a meal and it was well worth it.  And where the food isn't haute cuisine, I am interested in the best lobster shack in New England or the best corn on the cob in Nebraska.  "The Best" is a Xeno's walk, you can never reach it, but it's a lot of fun seeking it out.

The love of food is really a love of quality.  I like eating something made by someone who loves quality too. (even if it's myself, I give a crap about the ingredients and technique)  And I extended this love of quality outside of food to mechanical objects (watches, cars) electronics (computers).. buying where I could afford, and appreciating from a distance where my bank account did not allow.  Food is a cheap hobby to enjoy the best in the world -- you can eat the greatest food on earth prepared by the world's best chefs for a couple hundred bucks, I can honestly say I have eaten better than presidents and kings.  Unfortunately this appreciation of the best takes its toll on one's waistline and I'm working on losing a few pounds.

Clothing, at least men's clothing, is also a relatively inexpensive place in which to find "The Best" in something.  If I was more of an audophile I could drop a hundred grand on a stereo system.  The best car on earth is a million bucks.  It's a good thing I don't want the best house or the best yacht.  But I can go into Anderson & Sheppard and get a top notch bespoke suit for five grand.   That will be one of the best suits in the world. 

I mentioned I was losing some weight. I am currently halfway to goal, about a year after I started.  When I reach goal weight, I will be purchasing a new wardrobe.  This will include a bespoke suit and a couple of jackets from ... someone.  NOt sure which.  It was that question, "Which tailor should I use?" that led me to these forums, to aaac, SF, dandyism, londonlounge, and here. 

And I get to these places and the psychology of groups is such that the biggest question is "who is a member of the group and who isn't".  Of clothes used to mark one's cultural identity, either as a fan of a certain kind of music or as a fan of a certain period or as a follower of a certain political ideology or wanting to belong to a certain social strata.  All of that is fluff.  It's on the plate, my friends.  If I had a group affiliation it is not trad or dandy or indie rocker or streetwear - it is the group that gives a shit about quality.  Quals?

"The Best" is a Xeno's walk paradox, one can only approach the best and never reach it.  In addition, "the best" for me is not the same as for you or for anyone else, we all have different bodies and different social situations that demand different clothes.  But that doesn't mean there is no standard.  The food should taste good.  Nobody can say which is the best taco truck in the Bay Area but they can say "these five taco trucks are awesome".

The bespoke suit is the haute cuisine meal.  It has to be built by a master chef.  Jeans and T-shirts are the sandwiches and salads of clothing.  You have to have some, why not make them the best they can be?   A good meal obeys tradition where it works with the chef's personality, and the diner's expectation.  But it is not so locked into tradition that it stagnates.  French cuisine was locked into tradition so stultifying that Joel Robuchon had to blow the doors open in the 1980s.    It is the same with clothing.   Tradition must balance with innovation.  History cannot become a prison, but neither must it be completely tossed out the window.


I'm not sure where I'm going with this.  Mostly I'm wondering if anyone feels the way I do about quality of clothes.

 

#2 2006-07-12 01:53:42

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Quality

Fantastic post!
Doesn't matter where it's going. More please.
Miles.


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#3 2006-07-12 02:31:00

risto
New member
Posts: 1

Re: Quality

Hear, hear. This post finally pushed me to register, rather than remain just a lurker here.

 

#4 2006-07-12 02:47:35

Cruz Diez
Member
Posts: 1950

Re: Quality

Hi GF Burke, your post shows a bright intellect. I am myself a fan of good eating. While traveling through Europe I always ask my local friends about the best restaurants, treasured by the locals but unknown to the typical tourist. Most of them are not luxurious in their surroundings, but decadent in the culinary arts. This I enjoy greatly. I look forward to your future posts.

Last edited by Cruz Diez (2006-07-12 03:06:03)

 

#5 2006-07-12 04:07:04

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: Quality

With you on the food, though I don't mind humble mediocre food of a sort either.

But as to quality:  I appreciate things that well-made.  Take for instance, tools.  I love a good lathe or a good wrench (SnapOn or even a Craftsmen).  I've got a Sears hammer that's about 50 years old.  And some sledgehammers from Sears that are close to 90 years old.  Good stuff.  It's a good feeling to see something engineered well. 

I guess off-topic to an extent, but I like RTW clothes that are well-made and a good value despite the fact that they could've been made a heck of a lot cheaper with maybe few noticing.  I'm thinking of my old Corbin trousers, of which I have several pairs.  Sorry to drift into the "things were so much better back then mode..." with this last bit.

We should be thankful for those things, esp. other than bespoke, that continue to be well-made, if mass-produced.  Esp. in this era of mass-produced crap.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#6 2006-07-12 07:05:02

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Quality

My take is purely following your own aesthetic. That will result in 'The Best' for you.
My current interest is RTW with all the charm that I'm looking for...
And charm is so relative...

Family, Friends, Food, Wine, Conversation, Clothes, Holidays, Music... (The order varies with me...)

With a little charm the lowest of the low can be as enjoyable as the finest...

M.


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#7 2006-07-12 09:39:31

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9341

Re: Quality

We are all a bit nerdy. I have to admit, Im not telling girls that I run a web based men's style forum. My last gf accidentally found out about this and told me that if she didnt know me, she'd think I was a little "swishy". Maybe rather than nerdy, we are all leading lives of quiet desperation. I certainly have never spoken so much about clothes with people outside of the industry with the exception of two very close friends whom also love clothes, and that is just coincidence...or so I believe.

My boss knows about my website and has posted a few times but, even though he knows I love clothes, he thinks Im a little crazy. If it wasnt for the fact that I was such a heavy weight at what I do, I think he might actually look down on me. He did ask me where to get some reasonable rtw suits though, to which I told him I didnt wear clothes for poor people. He threw a tape dispenser at me.

 

#8 2006-07-12 12:42:40

GFBurke
Member
From: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 81

Re: Quality

 

#9 2006-07-12 12:59:16

GFBurke
Member
From: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 81

Re: Quality

Last edited by GFBurke (2006-07-12 13:12:46)

 

#10 2006-07-12 14:48:54

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9341

Re: Quality

I think thats right GFBurke. That gf was very bi and hung out in often alternative lifestyle circles. She didnt mean gay, she meant "pussy" like. Which is very different. As for me, it lessens the impact I think when people believe that I know about, care about, think about clothes because then instead of being an object of interest, I become either vain in their minds or a source of information about clothes. And there is one thing that would make me positively disgusted with life, it would be people asking me in person all day long for sources for clothes or how to match this or that, or the origin and purpose of clothes. I would feel like some Hotels.com drone or like Jeeves on rollerblades.

 

#11 2006-07-12 15:02:20

Vaclav
Member
Posts: 1330

Re: Quality

I never came to these forums for the clothing, I came for the company, but feel leaving more alonely.

 

#12 2006-07-12 15:13:27

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9341

Re: Quality

 

#13 2006-07-12 15:13:44

GFBurke
Member
From: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 81

Re: Quality

FNB, being asked about clothes a lot is a good sign in some ways, there is a vast untapped hunger for this information and for males to dress better without feeling like pussies.   There's a huge societal pressure against it, that a 'real man' somehow doesn't give a crap about things like appearance, it is seen as vain or insubstantial or a distraction from the real business at hand -- and yet, people do want to look better, do want to pick good looks for themselves.  They want to learn, and they see you as a resource, I don't think that's a bad thing.  I would be flattered. smile  By the way your recent article about the tree of style changed how I think about clothing, it was brilliant.  Old-boy-hip/hip, that is me, with occasional slips into pure old-boy.

And I too  limit my fashion discussions to places like this with people I know are interested and appreciate it.  I would totally go to a FNB meetup if one was held, you seem like interesting people with lives outside of being well dressed.  It was kind of like that with watches too, I went to a few TimeZone meetups awhile back and everyone there was super cool and friendly.  Good watches attract a certain type.

It is interesting that the name of this site and your nom de plume reflects an interest outside of clothing, of old movies.   And yet film noir is all about stylish suits.  And yet this isn't Fedora Lounge, trying to re-enact the past in historical costume.  It is the noir spirit but updated to today.

 

#14 2006-07-13 12:34:00

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9341

Re: Quality

 

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