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#1 2009-09-21 05:53:15

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

http://joehawkinsisonthelooseagain.blogspot.com/2008/01/mods-ivy-league-and-working-class.html

 

#2 2009-09-21 06:00:58

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

Read that before, good read and great mindset though !

 

#3 2009-09-21 06:23:13

Kingstonian
Member
From: sea to shining sea
Posts: 3205

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

Football fashion is now officially complete rubbish.

I am sick to death of shellsuit grandad sporting an ear ring. You should get to an age where you do not want attention drawn to your ears.

Everybody is dressed like a c*** these days. I did see some pensioner chic the other day - Gant Harrington in pensioner beige. His pal had a pocket square. I assumed they were a gay couple.

Nobody in England wore duffle coats back in the day. They were for lefties, CND types and soap-dodging students.

 

#4 2009-09-21 06:53:21

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

There will always be some interesting Casual chic about, I've never had any trouble finding any and I still like sporting the style occasionally, or rather do a little bit of mixing and matching. As stated before more than once I probably wouldn't do it when living in the UK, though. Loads of timeless classics within the style whatsoever, just an addition to The Look when carried out well.

Last edited by Alex Roest (2009-09-21 06:54:13)

 

#5 2009-09-21 06:55:12

Kingstonian
Member
From: sea to shining sea
Posts: 3205

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

'Rumpled' was never part of it either.

 

#6 2009-09-21 08:29:06

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#7 2009-09-21 08:41:43

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#8 2009-09-21 08:59:56

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

If you think about it, there was probably just a minor Ivy influence on mod and skinhead fashion in general... I mean, how many shops sold authentic American button down shirts in the UK?

So for most kids a Ben Sherman shirt must have been the non-plus-ultra...

...and outside London, it must have been much more difficult...


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#9 2009-09-21 09:03:08

Beatnik
Member
Posts: 604

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

As a big fan of the Duffle coat... I think you have got that spot on Hank.
Duffles had been brought back from the war by every sailor and were the cheap and warm coat from the Army & Navy store. They weren't a stylish item, that's why the Bohos adopted them. In very much the same way the Donkey jacket was favoured by students in the 80's.

 

#10 2009-09-21 09:05:48

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

OTP/ISR/chetmiles has raised this before: Is it possible that Kevin Rowland's story (in Paul Gorman's The Look) about his gang of "peanuts" wearing authentic Ivy League gear ca. 1968  all bollocks? or is it at least a little exaggerated... I mean he grew up in  Wolverhampton, and he was just 15 years old by 1968...


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#11 2009-09-21 09:08:12

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

Last edited by Hard Bop Hank (2009-09-21 09:10:24)


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#12 2009-09-21 09:13:35

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

the "language" of clothes... and youth culture... complicated, difficult subject, and me thinks that most sociologists and other scholars never really get it...


still have to read Roland Barthes' book on sartorial semiotics...


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#13 2009-09-21 09:18:06

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roland_Barthes

now there's a leftie!


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#14 2009-09-21 09:19:07

Beatnik
Member
Posts: 604

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

Ahh now... They're are some who would say the desert boot is a part of the skinhead wardrobe. Not the Oi bonehead but the sussed reggae loving skinhead.

 

#15 2009-09-21 09:21:56

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

back to the original topic of Mods and American Ivy League and British working class fashion...

What was it that Kevin Rowland remembered about OCBDs worn untucked to show off the American union stamp?

Anybody else remember this?


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#16 2009-09-21 09:28:08

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#17 2009-09-21 09:44:37

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

@Kingstonian: we need you! Your first hand knowledge is much appreciated!!!

I think you mentioned before, that there were no Tweeds and flannels around, and that sharp Mohair suits were much more popular than Ivy League suits... and that (even though you noticed "off-centre-vents") most people didn't even care about the natural shoulder at the time...

(BTW, I guess, the natural shoulder look must have been much more "odd" in the 80s, when apparently everybody was wearing Armani-giant-shoulder-padding-suits)...

...what else do you remember?


Boots for example...

Do you remember desert boots as a skinhead fashion?

DMs: When did they become popular?

Or what about "Astronauts", Army boots, NCB steel-toe-cap boots etc...?

Monkey boots were for kids, right? And what about Brogue Boots?

Or was all this "boots and braces" thing more a "provincial" fashion?


the clip-on-braces and the grandad/ union shirts (shirts without collar)?


Beatnik mentioned the Donkey Jacket... so what about this?


All these things have nothing to do with Ivy League, so apologies, but I'm interested in this, as well....


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#18 2009-09-21 09:55:58

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

... and what about haircuts?

What was more popular among your friends: The "typical" skinhead crop, the same length all over, or a more graded/tapered short-back-and-sides crewcut, like the American GIs and the Astronauts would sport, as described in the "8-4-2" thread...

... and what about music? Reggae? Soul? Did you collect obscure labels, and out of print singles like the Northern Soul scene?


Sorry, I see, these are too many questions at once...


Cheers!


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#19 2009-09-21 10:23:14

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

I think it must have been different, depending on what area one was living, or what clubs people went to, and of course, what year we are talking about...

I read this text about a year ago, by Adam of London, who wrote that he was a mod ca. 1963/64 and that he didn't remember anything about Ivy League... he was writing about the style of mod suits, and that it was all a version of the English country suit/ hacking jacket, or  something like that...

I'll search for this.


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#20 2009-09-21 10:30:59

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

http://www.adamoflondon.com/modernists.html

"The question has been asked as to how the Mod fashion started. Some people will have you believe that it was inspired by a group of students that were into jazz music, who frequented the various jazz clubs around Soho in London, and in turn were influenced by the various overseas jazz musicians that performed at these clubs. Well that’s bullshit. Can someone show me a photograph of these zoot suit wearing jazz musicians dressed in a remotely similar way to us Mods? I don’t think so. The Mod fashion started the same way as all fashion trends start, and still do today. The difference was that the early 60’s was the beginning of the teenage revolution."

He seems to confuse Ivy League style and Zoot suits...


"If you really want to know where the style for the jacket of the Mod suit came from, I’ll tell you. It was already there. I refer you to a British B film, made in 1963 called Murder at the Gallop, starring Margaret Rutherford and Robert Morley. Anyway several of the male characters including Fat Boy Robert Morley himself were wearing tweed type Jackets, and guess what style they were? Yes, button three, narrow lapel, side pockets with flaps, the now famous ticket pocket also with a flap, and a longish centre vent. So it was an adaptation of the English and the French tweed riding jacket."


So, this British B film is the evidence?


... all very different from Graham Marsh's recollections...


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#21 2009-09-21 10:32:44

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

All input welcome!

Chris H, Richmond Hill, Brideshead, maybe?


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#22 2009-09-21 10:45:38

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

Rob The Mod:

http://www.gonemovies.com/www/Drama/Drama/AfricanDominee.jpg

 

#23 2009-09-21 10:53:59

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#24 2009-09-21 11:02:30

KCKclassic
Member
From: usa>kansas>Kansas City>Turner
Posts: 118

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -


Some people hate the English, I don't, they're just wankers. We, on the other hand, were colonized by wankers, Can't even pick a decent culture to be colonized by...

 

#25 2009-09-21 11:21:57

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 
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