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  •  » Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

#51 2009-09-22 17:13:13

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

What about US workwear, blue jeans, sweatshirts, wool shirts, workboots etc.?

Did the Ivy Shop sell stuff like this in the 60s, too, or was it more like smart Ivy League gear only and all these other Americana started to become more popular in the 80s at JS?

Maybe Pendleton shirts?


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#52 2009-09-22 17:31:34

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

And what about the original American shirts sold at the Ivy Shop?

Oxford shirts, solid and candy stripes, and Madras plaids mainly, I guess, right?

Do you remember particular brands? Troy Shirtmakers Guild, Sero The Purist, Gant, Arrow, Tru-Val Career Club, maybe?


What were the important details? The soft roll, unlined button down collar, the stitching, the fit, was it traditional/ full cut only or were there tapered/ slim cut shirts, too? Did you look for a box pleat, or locker loop etc... were flap pockets, flap and patch pockets, or no pockets prefered, and were there 3BDs, and the shirts did they have a 5 or 6 button front...???


What about other styles, patterns and materials?

Forward point "Tennis" collars, snap tab collars, rounded Club collars, pin-through?

Gingham, boxcheck and Tattersall checks?

pullover button down shirts, maybe?

pinpoint oxford, end-on-end, broadcloth? Linen, Seersucker, Chambray?


Were all the OCBDs and short sleeve Madras all 100% cotton, or were there non-iron/ permanent press shirts, too?


Did you also wear long sleeve Madras shirts, or striped ones?

Last edited by Hard Bop Hank (2009-09-23 02:00:33)


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#53 2009-09-23 02:50:02

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

Back to shoes: So Desert Boots weren't fashionable during the skinhead era, but what about low-top bucks, and what about welted/ leather sole chukka boots, or maybe Original-Playboy-style plantation-crepe-sole ones?

And, even if all those things weren't worn by skinheads, were they sold at the Ivy Shop for other customers, older blokes who were into Jazz, or those young urban professionals that John Simons wanted to attract originally?


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#54 2009-09-23 05:09:12

Beatnik
Member
Posts: 604

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

Just been talking to my mate Paddy who is a font of all skinhead knowledge. He agreed desert boots were worn right through the skinhead period. They were possibly a touch more suedehead but were definitly worn and still are on the scene. 'Astronauts' were worn by people who couldn't afford DM's. What about 'riders' and 'dealers'? Anyone remember them?

 

#55 2009-09-23 07:08:56

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

My "skinead mates" differ in their opinion about these shoes: One of them definitely thinks of them as a typical mid-sixties-Mod thing, and thus a "no, no!" for skinheads, another one even prefers them to DMs, but he likes to think of himself as a "Hard Mod" rather than a skinhead ... both of them only got second hand knowledge of the "original skinhead" subject, though, but they wear rather "traditional skinhead/ suedehead" clothes, usually rather smart, occasionally with a bit of "football/ casual" stuff such as Incontinence pants trainers etc., but no Oi!/street punk or "bonehead" clobber...

Brideshead and Kingstonian are really reliable on the subject, I guess... Maybe it's also one of those things that were different from one area to another? Your friend is maybe talking about further up North, Beatnik?

I think I have seen pictures from ca. 1970 with some kids sporting longer hair and wearing US parkas among a skinhead crowd, too...


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#56 2009-09-23 08:31:43

Beatnik
Member
Posts: 604

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

We are talking about what was happening up North here Hank. As I said before there is so much regional variation. This is late 60's through the seventies. In that time we also had 'smooths' and 'brolly boys', more varitions of the original skinhead style. Slang terms for styles and clothes also also vary from region to region. You need to write the book Hank.

 

#57 2009-09-23 10:46:59

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

 

#58 2009-09-23 11:15:03

Kingstonian
Member
From: sea to shining sea
Posts: 3205

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

 

#59 2009-09-23 11:33:45

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

 

#60 2009-09-23 11:34:21

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

Thanks a lot! I'm really interested in all this stuff, and it means a lot to me! There are so many myths and stereotypes about these things because people tend to take everything they read in books for granted...

If I just think about "braces" for example... It's like someone wrote that slim scarlet clip-on braces were popular with original skins, and the next generation takes it for granted that all skinheads only had these scarlet braces back in the day (as if it was the only acceptable item)....

I guess, there were other colours, too.

Did you also wear belts? Or maybe, when wearing a suit, the more traditional wider braces, fastened inside with buttons?

Last edited by Hard Bop Hank (2009-09-23 11:40:25)


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#61 2009-09-23 11:35:04

Kingstonian
Member
From: sea to shining sea
Posts: 3205

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

 

#62 2009-09-23 11:36:12

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#63 2009-09-23 11:39:30

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

I'll have to ask OTP.

 

#64 2009-09-23 11:52:29

Kingstonian
Member
From: sea to shining sea
Posts: 3205

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

 

#65 2009-09-23 11:55:12

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#66 2009-09-23 12:02:51

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#67 2009-09-23 12:08:05

Kingstonian
Member
From: sea to shining sea
Posts: 3205

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

^ By the time I was aware of Ben Sherman they were slim fit. They may have been better copies before I knew them.

I always thought genuine, full-fit, US-made shirts were a step up on Ben Shermans. Exclusiveness is a part of that. You could buy Bens anywhere in the UK. Good fabrics too.

 

#68 2009-09-23 12:11:13

Kingstonian
Member
From: sea to shining sea
Posts: 3205

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

 

#69 2009-09-23 12:14:38

Staceyboy
Ivy Archivist
Posts: 936

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -


http://thetownoutside.tumblr.com

 

#70 2009-09-23 12:28:28

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hugY9CwhfzE

Lou Reed sings about the dealer wearing "PR shoes" (=Puerto Rican shoes)... I suppose these were Cuban heeled Chelsea Boots like the Beatles wore them... but I guess, your friend was talking about the regular heeled Chelseas, just with brogue details... I think these Beatle boots must have been a stone age dated thing at the time of Wigan Casino.


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#71 2009-09-23 12:43:11

Staceyboy
Ivy Archivist
Posts: 936

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

^ Yes, definitely regular heels rather than Cuban.

Staceyboy


http://thetownoutside.tumblr.com

 

#72 2009-09-23 13:47:10

The Thin Repp
Ivy Evangelist
Posts: 1160

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -


http://www.etsy.com/shop/NewtonStreetVintage  Classic Vintage Ivy League Clothing on Etsy.

 

#73 2009-09-23 13:59:47

Moose Maclennan
Ivy Inspiration
From: Hernando's Hideaway
Posts: 4577

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

^ my Sero shirt has something cryptic like:

        SA

      3706

5364        15

SANFORIZED

    8315A

 

#74 2009-09-23 14:17:41

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

 

#75 2009-09-24 00:43:06

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: Mods, The Ivy League And Working-class Menswear -

 
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