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#1 2009-09-23 12:21:39
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4923
British tailoring and Ivy League sensibilities
It's not about youth culture and street style this time... or at least not necessarily...
I was thinking about the "macchiato man rules" that were on the JS homepage.... about the importance of the shoulder line, where he also mentioned A&S (I think it was something like "Anderson & Sheppard's shoulder line is god" or so.)
Another thing that came to my mind was that 1950s Chester Barrie advert that Horace had posted...
And a third thing was the fact that Dougie Millings (who was cutting suits for the Beatles) had been working for Lou Austin's in the 50s, and the Beatles thread here has shown that their clothes were far from "traditional British".
We've also talked about the possibilities of getting a classic sack suit made bespoke...
A lot to discuss, I think....
Last edited by Hard Bop Hank (2009-09-23 13:23:20)
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#2 2009-09-23 13:24:50
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4923
Re: British tailoring and Ivy League sensibilities
We need the Macchiato Man rules again... There should be an archive to the JS site....
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#3 2009-09-23 13:28:45
- Taylor McIntyre
- Son of Ivy...
- Posts: 342
Re: British tailoring and Ivy League sensibilities
Agreed!
In my experience if you want a classic American suit over here then you have to go to a non-classic English tailor. Go to a guy who sees more than the English BS idea of what is 'correct'.
I've just started schmoozing the SchmutterBoys of Bristol & will report back...
#4 2009-09-23 13:29:28
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4923
Re: British tailoring and Ivy League sensibilities
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#5 2009-09-23 13:31:46
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4923
Re: British tailoring and Ivy League sensibilities
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#6 2009-09-23 13:35:29
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4923
Re: British tailoring and Ivy League sensibilities
Maybe there were some East End tailors back in the day, too, who copied the styles popularised by Austins and the Ivy Shop later on... maybe? With this we are touching the subject of youth culture/ street style in Britain once again...
Not pure Ivy, but the Ivy influence...
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#7 2009-09-23 14:14:44
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4923
Re: British tailoring and Ivy League sensibilities
Dougie Millings:
http://www.independent.co.uk/news/obituaries/dougie-millings-729513.html
obituary, as mentioned in this thread:
http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/viewtopic.php?id=3174
London Ivy: Random.
http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/viewtopic.php?id=4693
Ivy Beatles...
...................
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#8 2009-09-23 14:22:27
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4923
Re: British tailoring and Ivy League sensibilities
... the roots of Ivy in British style, and the strong connection between New England and blighty, and Brooks Brothers Anglophilia etc... all these are completely different topics, but they might be relevant to this in a way, too...
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#9 2009-09-23 14:29:37
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4923
Re: British tailoring and Ivy League sensibilities
The idea is that before WWII London was still the center of the world, sartorially at least...
Post WWII this seems to have changed...
New York was No.1, capitol of the world...
America was super power, and there were GIs all over Europe... Hollywood must have had some influence before WWII already, but in the 50s there were shops selling American clothes... in London... shock horror!!!
London became inspired by the specific American look, which was less stiff, more relaxed, and in a way more cosmopolitan...
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#10 2009-09-23 14:42:10
- Taylor McIntyre
- Son of Ivy...
- Posts: 342
Re: British tailoring and Ivy League sensibilities
Are those Alex's toes that you're stepping on?
But I do think that you are right.
#11 2009-09-23 14:59:09
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4923
Re: British tailoring and Ivy League sensibilities
I don't want to talk about what we've called "London Ivy" in this thread, it's supposed to be about something slightly different, but you're right, I have digressed....
Last edited by Hard Bop Hank (2009-09-23 14:59:49)
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#12 2009-09-23 15:21:56
- Taylor McIntyre
- Son of Ivy...
- Posts: 342
Re: British tailoring and Ivy League sensibilities
Only joking.
You should chat to A. & share ideas.
#13 2009-10-02 06:29:56
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4923
Re: British tailoring and Ivy League sensibilities
http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/viewtopic.php?id=5113
This is also interesting in this context...
Just as a footnote to what has been termed "London Ivy" or "UK Ivy": It's probably all about the rarity of the clothes (and the quality of course, as a lot of people have stated that American RTW was always better than British RTW). And about this "exotic" touch, not "exotic" like a Nehru jacket or an Afghan coat, so exotic was probably the wrong word... but about "standing out" in a subtle way, not like a sore thumb....
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#14 2009-10-02 06:32:20
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4923
Re: British tailoring and Ivy League sensibilities
http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/viewtopic.php?id=5080
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#15 2009-10-02 06:33:34
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4923
Re: British tailoring and Ivy League sensibilities
http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/viewtopic.php?id=5131
"Anglo Ivy" was another term here....
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#16 2009-10-02 07:13:18
- Taylor McIntyre
- Son of Ivy...
- Posts: 342
Re: British tailoring and Ivy League sensibilities
I've a feeling that America invented modern RTW - Is that right?
#17 2010-04-15 09:21:12
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4923
Re: British tailoring and Ivy League sensibilities
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#18 2010-04-15 09:32:05
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4923
Re: British tailoring and Ivy League sensibilities
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#19 2010-04-15 10:13:08
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4923
Re: British tailoring and Ivy League sensibilities
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#20 2010-04-16 04:14:53
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4923
Re: British tailoring and Ivy League sensibilities
Maybe these topics are too close to iGent territory...
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"