Last edited by Hard Bop Hank (2009-10-04 11:42:39)
It just seems absolutely clear to me that the Italian male cares about clothes , and has better taste (ie.My taste!), than any other nationality I've come across. Look at the care old men take in their appearance - proper haircuts, Barracuta Harringtons, great cords, chukka boots. They wear, its seems almost instictively, a hybrid Anglo-American look which becomes so quintessentially Italian when they combine it. You don't even have to look back and analyse it historically because it is clear from what you see you see today in Italy that the effects of the Ivy/U.S. thing still permeates their sartorial palate. John Simons has mentioned to me more than once that one of the key influences for him, and this was I think before he'd got hold of an American Ivy League jacket, was a shop called Giorgio on Piccadilly Arcade in the 1950s. Their tailoring was soft and unstructured and very un-British. The Italians remain in the true vanguard of exciting traditional tailoring. What I really love is how this is manifested across the country, across classes and is not solely the preserve of some niche social group or youth cult.
GG
And Giorgio was brought to England, encouraged and set up in business by John's old boss Cecil Gee.
I read about that, but I thought that Cecil Gee brought a tailor back as his own employee....
Last edited by Alex Roest (2009-10-12 04:00:51)
I think it would look much better if he buttoned his collar.
Last edited by Marc Grayson (2009-10-12 11:24:41)
First try of the muslin shirt today at Siniscalchi, Milan. It will be a tab-club collar, with interesting cuffs. Ivy-Anglo-italian?
Photos as soon the job will be completed.
Claudio is selling a 3/2 bumfreezer recently:
http://www.dnagroove.it/en/amarone005-man-9-2633-clothes.html
He was wearing one of his new 3/2 bumfreezer last Saturday nite, very cool indeed.
I was in 2btn (both fastened) bumfreezer too, ah!:-)
Last edited by Daniele (2009-11-04 09:28:57)
Quando si usa la parola 'bumfreezer' qui cosa significa esattamente perche`secondo quello che posso vedere qui la giacca mi sembra piu` o meno una buona versiona italiana del stile 'ivy league'? In qualche modo e` diverso? Grazie.
GG
Ciao Gibson G.,
io chiamo 'bumfreezer' la mia giacca perchè lascia scoperto metà sedere:-) Claudio usa lo stesso termine probabilmente per indicare che le sue giacche 3/2 sono un po' più corte del normale.
Hello GG,
I define my coat 'bumfreezer' coz it covers barely the upper side of my bum:-) Claudio likely means that these new 3/2 coats of his are slightly shorter than usual.
Regards,
Daniele
the 3/2 undarted bumfreezer is a great cut that's highly underrated, esp since it can pair well with odd trews adn jeans as well as part of a suit
making myself some new fall/winter jackets for Thick as Thieves photos in that style, try to get more guys into it. single piece back, short side vents, patch pockets, undarted, no shoulder pad, 3/2 lapel roll, swelled seams on lapel & pockets etc.
Last edited by Get Smart (2009-11-06 13:44:53)
Cool!
I think I'll try this (Ivy-Continental) option too. My taylor remembers that one-piece back bumfreezers were very trendy when he entered the business (late 50s).
Last edited by Daniele (2009-11-09 02:11:23)