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#26 2009-10-04 06:15:23

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Ivy/Italian crossover

Last edited by Hard Bop Hank (2009-10-04 11:42:39)


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#27 2009-10-05 01:15:47

Gibson Gardens
Ivy Author
Posts: 873

Re: Ivy/Italian crossover

It just seems absolutely clear to me that the Italian male cares about clothes , and has better taste (ie.My taste!),  than any other nationality I've come across. Look at the care old men take in their appearance - proper haircuts, Barracuta Harringtons, great cords, chukka boots. They wear, its seems almost instictively, a hybrid Anglo-American look which becomes so quintessentially Italian when they combine it. You don't even have to look back and analyse it historically because it is clear from what you see you see today in Italy that the effects of the Ivy/U.S. thing still permeates their sartorial palate. John Simons has mentioned to me more than once that one of the key influences for him, and this was I think before he'd got hold of an American Ivy League jacket, was a shop called Giorgio on Piccadilly Arcade in the 1950s. Their tailoring was soft and unstructured and very un-British. The Italians remain in the true vanguard of exciting traditional tailoring. What I really love is how this is manifested across the country, across classes and is not solely the preserve of some niche social group or youth cult.

GG

 

#28 2009-10-05 01:22:24

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Ivy/Italian crossover

And Giorgio was brought to England, encouraged and set up in business by John's old boss Cecil Gee.

 

#29 2009-10-05 07:17:55

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Ivy/Italian crossover

I read about that, but I thought that Cecil Gee brought a tailor back as his own employee....


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#30 2009-10-05 07:52:29

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Ivy/Italian crossover

Initially.

 

#31 2009-10-12 04:00:18

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: Ivy/Italian crossover

Last edited by Alex Roest (2009-10-12 04:00:51)

 

#32 2009-10-12 05:35:38

DB
Member
Posts: 216

Re: Ivy/Italian crossover

I think it would look much better if he buttoned his collar.

 

#33 2009-10-12 11:19:41

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Ivy/Italian crossover

Last edited by Marc Grayson (2009-10-12 11:24:41)


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#34 2009-10-27 10:10:21

Daniele
Member
Posts: 368

Re: Ivy/Italian crossover

First try of the muslin shirt today at Siniscalchi, Milan. It will be a tab-club collar, with interesting cuffs. Ivy-Anglo-italian?
Photos as soon the job will be completed.

 

#35 2009-11-04 08:54:02

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Ivy/Italian crossover

Claudio is selling a 3/2 bumfreezer recently:

http://www.dnagroove.it/en/amarone005-man-9-2633-clothes.html


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#36 2009-11-04 09:27:56

Daniele
Member
Posts: 368

Re: Ivy/Italian crossover

He was wearing one of his new 3/2 bumfreezer last Saturday nite, very cool indeed.
I was in 2btn (both fastened) bumfreezer too, ah!:-)

Last edited by Daniele (2009-11-04 09:28:57)

 

#37 2009-11-04 16:16:31

Gibson Gardens
Ivy Author
Posts: 873

Re: Ivy/Italian crossover

Quando si usa la parola 'bumfreezer' qui cosa significa esattamente perche`secondo quello che posso vedere qui la giacca mi sembra piu` o meno una buona versiona italiana del stile 'ivy league'? In qualche modo e` diverso? Grazie.

GG

 

#38 2009-11-05 07:36:11

Daniele
Member
Posts: 368

Re: Ivy/Italian crossover

Ciao Gibson G.,

io chiamo 'bumfreezer' la mia giacca perchè lascia scoperto metà sedere:-) Claudio usa lo stesso termine probabilmente per indicare che le sue giacche 3/2 sono un po' più corte del normale.

Hello GG,

I define my coat 'bumfreezer' coz it covers barely the upper side of my bum:-) Claudio likely means that these new 3/2 coats of his are slightly shorter than usual.

Regards,

Daniele

 

#39 2009-11-06 13:41:37

Get Smart
Member
Posts: 1106

Re: Ivy/Italian crossover

the 3/2 undarted bumfreezer is a great cut that's highly underrated, esp since it can pair well with odd trews adn jeans as well as part of a suit

making myself some new fall/winter jackets for Thick as Thieves photos in that style, try to get more guys into it.  single piece back, short side vents, patch pockets, undarted, no shoulder pad, 3/2 lapel roll, swelled seams on lapel & pockets etc.

Last edited by Get Smart (2009-11-06 13:44:53)

 

#40 2009-11-09 02:10:48

Daniele
Member
Posts: 368

Re: Ivy/Italian crossover

Cool!

I think I'll try this (Ivy-Continental) option too. My taylor remembers that one-piece back bumfreezers were very trendy when he entered the business (late 50s).

Last edited by Daniele (2009-11-09 02:11:23)

 

#41 2009-11-09 02:23:38

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Ivy/Italian crossover

 

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